No, seriously, I think the ones Jeff uses have gold-plated contacts.
That is why they are supposedly much better than the Radio Shack ones.
That's the way I remember it anyway.
Chuck Switch Troubles
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That is why they are supposedly much better than the Radio Shack ones.
That's the way I remember it anyway.
Yep!! I hava no douts dat Jeffs switches are differant from rat shack and probably a better switch (he sent me 2 uf'um and they worked fine) but I have also used the rat switches and they will works. I'd use only if i didn't wants to be wifouts my Chuck fer a week,the switches are cheep and you could have it back up n E-smok'n in no time at all. dat all i'ma say'n.........Hecknaw
Rat shack switches will work fine, but will be prone to wearing out faster and possibly even causing a short....
heres a pic of the actual switch Jeff uses...
That's adorable. It looks like a cartoon character. I expect it to walk around on those two little "legs."He uses c&k brand switches...and ur correct- gold plated contacts, but also handles more amps which keep it from buring out using 6v
Rat shack switches will work fine, but will be prone to wearing out faster and possibly even causing a short....
heres a pic of the actual switch Jeff uses...
Ha! yeah, kinda a big pic, but wanted to be able to show the writing It IS knda adorable tho in a alien robotic kinda way
It IS knda adorable tho in a alien robotic kinda way 
I see he has switched to red switches. I have the older black one and I just barely touch it to work. It's a softer touch than an Ego.
No, seriously, I think the ones Jeff uses have gold-plated contacts.
That is why they are supposedly much better than the Radio Shack ones.
That's the way I remember it anyway.
I know, I know. I was just funnin' I think that they might be NKK switches. The good ones have contacts that are plated with gold or silver. I had my switch out when I was putting the wood veneer on the body but I didn't think to look at the switch for the make and model. NKK makes one like that.
Guys
I have 3 chucks...they are undoutedbly my favorite vape.. Hands down.
However...i have been having problems and i need to understand what is happening.
I have already sent my chucks back a couple of times for repair, and Jeff has done a fine job.
Here is the problem :
I have to press the switch really hard...sometimes the atomizer triggers and sometimes not.
Sometimes the atomizer does work but badly...as if it was not getting enough power... or bad power.
My atty's are 801...and they do leak.
Is this the problem?
No liquid is ever present in the batt compartment though.
Any ideas?
I have 3 chucks...they are undoutedbly my favorite vape.. Hands down.
However...i have been having problems and i need to understand what is happening.
I have already sent my chucks back a couple of times for repair, and Jeff has done a fine job.
Here is the problem :
I have to press the switch really hard...sometimes the atomizer triggers and sometimes not.
Sometimes the atomizer does work but badly...as if it was not getting enough power... or bad power.
My atty's are 801...and they do leak.
Is this the problem?
No liquid is ever present in the batt compartment though.
Any ideas?
Just adding a comment about the switch troubles....on all three of my chucks, at one time or another, it seemed like the switch was dead. Most recent was my newest chuck, I thought crap, I gotta send it back to Jeff....the switch felt completely dead. I stuck it in my vape box, after I turned the little black button in a clockwise type manner....I noalox'd my endcap-still didn't work-figured I'd get to it in a few days to send it in. Threw in some new batts yet again and blammo, works just fine.
My other two chucks, the same deal. I think my switches just want some time off.
I am not sure why this has happened or why they seem to start working just fine after a day or so....really is a mystery to me. The only good side is that I've yet to really have to send them in. I strongly recommend to never panic, just pull your batts, put that gunk on your battery end threads, let them sit a day or so and if you still have trouble then worry. Also, it is a great reason to justify having several chucks! (cause no way in hell would any chucklehead want to resort to using an old 510 again!)
My other two chucks, the same deal. I think my switches just want some time off.
I am not sure why this has happened or why they seem to start working just fine after a day or so....really is a mystery to me. The only good side is that I've yet to really have to send them in. I strongly recommend to never panic, just pull your batts, put that gunk on your battery end threads, let them sit a day or so and if you still have trouble then worry. Also, it is a great reason to justify having several chucks! (cause no way in hell would any chucklehead want to resort to using an old 510 again!)
I just tossed a band aid over the switch. Not the most elegant solution, but it works.
Can someone give a general "how-to" (pictures would be awesome) on replacing a switch? I'm pretty good with electronics, I can break down, repair, and rebuild laptops.
The top "end cap" appears to be glued/soldered into place. Not sure which. But it appears it would need to be removed to install a new switch.
Oh, and will this break my "warranty"?
The top "end cap" appears to be glued/soldered into place. Not sure which. But it appears it would need to be removed to install a new switch.
Oh, and will this break my "warranty"?
Jeff uses a special tool to tighten it, but be sure to tape the top w/painters or electrical tape first for risk of marring the cap. He has NO limitaions on the warranty and it IS a simple fix f u can solder and ur tedious enough. Im good with this stuff, but opted to send mine in just for good measure Ive purchased 6 Chucks and only had to replace two switches, one was my moms and it was user error-she "tightened" the contact screw...which is SUPPOSED to be loose..
Like Jeff said..."the apple didnt fall far from the tree"
Ive purchased 6 Chucks and only had to replace two switches, one was my moms and it was user error-she "tightened" the contact screw...which is SUPPOSED to be loose..Like Jeff said..."the apple didnt fall far from the tree"
Switch on the picture is biger then switch in the Chuck.
In Chuck is swith 0,5A and on your pic is switch rated 6A.
Big, big different.
Houdini, thank you; this is pure genius. One of my Chucks wasn't firing as well as it once was but it didn't seem bad enough to send back to Jeff. I was just going through this thread for some ideas when I saw the picture and realized that we had some of that stuff around here. I sprayed the button once and waited a while. Now it's working like new again. Thanks!If you really don't want to send it back to Jeff one thing you could try as a last resort is a shot of CRC Electronic Parts Cleaner. Aim the little straw that comes with it right at the button. It will penetrate into the switch and clean out any gunk that may have built up in there. This will work only if the switch is dirty inside. It evaporates quick and won't leave any chemical behind.
I think I solve my problem with switch in my Chuck.
I replace old one (rated 0,5A/125V) with new one (rated 3A/120V).
The new one is bigger but no too much. I must drill bigger hole, solder wires and all parts put together.
So far so good.
I replace old one (rated 0,5A/125V) with new one (rated 3A/120V).
The new one is bigger but no too much. I must drill bigger hole, solder wires and all parts put together.
So far so good.
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