CL-R Question

[Gramdogg]

My rubber *added(inside the coil!) keeps getting ripped slightly when pulling it off, is it ok to still use it since it's still insulating or should I just replace it to be safe? Seems to happen very easy, 2 out of 3 so far. I think the coil on the inside is ripping it slightly when pulling it off. It is a horizontal rip as well so no chance the coil could slip between it if that helps. I threw one out already, seems like I'll go through them fast if I keep doing so. mod has short circuit protection also.

 

[Larry J]

After reading the first few words of this post, I'm not touching it with a ten-foot pole.

 

[rgerber]

After reading the first few words of this post, I'm not touching it with a ten-foot pole.

Me either...but....I always hated it when MY rubbers got ripped....

 

[Gramdogg]

LOL I know how it sounds... hope my mod don't get an STD thats all LOL J/K

 

[bwh79]

What tank/coil? Can you post a picture of where it ripped?

 

[Gramdogg]

What tank/coil? Can you post a picture of where it ripped?

It's ego one mega CL-Rebuildable coil. Alot like the evod and protank coils. Just horizontal rip in random spots on the inside. Hardly see it unless it's pushed in while re installing it.

 

[Izan]

Hola,

I've been rebuilding the same 4 heads for over a year and have not "ripped my rubber" yet.
I would replace the damaged part.

 

[bwh79]

It's ego one mega CL-Rebuildable coil. Alot like the evod and protank coils. Just horizontal rip in random spots on the inside. Hardly see it unless it's pushed in while re installing it.

I'm not familiar with that tank but I do know my way around an Evod coil and from that and the picture Izan posted up above, it looks like that rubber part is very important. I wouldn't want to use one that was damaged even just a little bit. If you use it on a regulated device it should be fine I guess, if something goes wrong then it just won't fire, but on a mechanical mod, a short could be disastrous.

 

[Gramdogg]

thats what I was think bwh79. it's purpose is just to stop the connection from going through, once the - shorter end touches the rubber at any point it should end. The + end works because the pin is touching it. I must be ripping it with the + wire Izan, I'll hold the coil while taking it out from now on and bend it in so it don't get caught and rip more of them... I'm not gonna use my Ni coil so guess I can use the rubber from that next time I change the coil to be safe.

 

[Gramdogg]

Hola,

I've been rebuilding the same 4 heads for over a year and have not "ripped my rubber" yet.
I would replace the damaged part.

Doe's the longer end have to be between the two posts? all the videos I watched and even in this photo the long end is bent over and clipped but in left pic you can't see it at all.

 

[Grimwald]

If you are using an ohms meter to check your build and it's not reading a short, then you should be OK. I assume we are talking about the bottom plug piece. As long as one wire is on the outside of the plug and the other wire is on the inside and insulated from each other and the center post is insulated from the wall, it should be good to go.

 

[Gramdogg]

Yeah, I will replace it next time I build it. I just forget which one it is and don't want to take them all apart. As far as the two center pins I seen a video today the guy just leaves it straight and between the two posts and it seems to read lower ohms that way. like adding the .04ohm before the plug if it's not. Though bending it over and under the posts like joyetech's video and others I seen don't seem to hurt it.

 

[Izan]

Doe's the longer end have to be between the two posts? all the videos I watched and even in this photo the long end is bent over and clipped but in left pic you can't see it at all.

I build them for the wife with SS316/28 AWG. .75Ω-1.0Ω, using cotton or rayon.
The Negative (body) has the little notch to hold it in place, I use the slot in the (+) pin the same way. If I need to move/adjust the coil I can just turn the (+) pin a bit.
I clip and bend the Neg leg , the positive I leave at about 1.5mm-2mm; straight.

 

[Gramdogg]

I build them for the wife with SS316/28 AWG. .75Ω-1.0Ω, using cotton or rayon.
The Negative (body) has the little notch to hold it in place, I use the slot in the (+) pin the same way. If I need to move/adjust the coil I can just turn the (+) pin a bit.
I clip and bend the Neg leg , the positive I leave at about 1.5mm-2mm; straight.

ok thats what I'll do. Seems to read more accurate that way, know it wouldn't hurt simply because others like EVOD and Protank don't have the spaces... probably why 1.8ohm coils read as 1.9-2ohm all the time.

 

[Gramdogg]

I use 5/4 wraps of 26awg kanthal on 2.4mm get 0.5-0.57 Ohm.

 

[Gramdogg]

I build them for the wife with SS316/28 AWG. .75Ω-1.0Ω, using cotton or rayon.
The Negative (body) has the little notch to hold it in place, I use the slot in the (+) pin the same way. If I need to move/adjust the coil I can just turn the (+) pin a bit.
I clip and bend the Neg leg , the positive I leave at about 1.5mm-2mm; straight.

I noticed today it's when I push the center pin in. Not sure if i'm pushing it to one side or maybe 26 awg is to thick. I'll use what I have left an be more careful. If it happens again i'll have to do 28 awg.

 

[Gramdogg]

They seem ok to re use as long as I keep the rip away from any wire.