Clapton for TC vaping...question.

[Stringplucker]

I have been TC vaping for a few months, and really enjoy it. I can finally say that I'm satisfied with the quality of flavor and production. However, I've got a number of spools of kanthal, SS, Ni200 and Ti wires just sitting in a box, being unused. For Christmas, my adult children bought me a better TC mod than what I had, and I decided to get a rta, the Aromamizer, to be able to use those wires.

Now, if I use 26ga Ti wire as the core, can I use a 34ga Kanthal as the wrap and still be able to vape in TC mode?? Would the same apply for Ni200?

 

[WileE]

@Stringplucker - Yes You can. 26ga Ti + 34ga Kanthal will work well.

I suggest you save this as a favorite if you haven't already Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
For hybrid Claptons you will select the Wire Wizard tab and then build your coil on the app. It will give you a TC precision factor & more importantly it will accurately predict the adjusted coil resistance for your hybrid build. The most valuable feature IMO is the graph in the upper right corner with tabs on the left side. You can select equivalents from the tabs and the graph turn into a dialogue box, there you can get the correct setting for your non TCR adjustable mod. Or by selecting the DNA-200 tab you can download the CSV file for your hybrid build.

I have a few words of caution RE: Ti or Ni 200 neither of them should be dry burned. You must be cautious when trying to make sure there are no hot spots. The Kanthal Clapton wrap masks the core so it will be hard to tell if you've overheated the Ti making Ti02 (white powdery residue). The same caution must be used when trying to clean and re-wick a gunked clapton. For Ti one option is to create a cleaning mode/profile for your DNA-200 with a higher TCR setting like .007 and then set temp to 600°F = actual aprox 1100°F allowing you to clean the coil without creating the Titanium dioxide.
As for the Nickel I'd just throw it in the craft drawer in case you ever run out of garbage bag twisties

When you deplete your wire stockpile I'd consider picking up some NiFe 52 wire. It can be dry burned and re-wicked just like kanthal. I've been using it exclusively for a few months now and I'm very happy with it.

Here are a few TC clapton pic's to inspire you.

dual 27ga NiFe52 core with 36ga kanthal wrap fused clapton for Uwell Crown RBA

Goblin Mini 28ga NiFe 52 core/34ga kanthal wrap .13Ω Pima Cotton

28/34 after a few tanks of 70/30 pound cake

same 28/34 dry fired and rinsed good as new

 

[Stringplucker]

NiFe 52 would be good, but my mod isn't a DNA 200...it's the X Cube II, which doesn't have that as an optional power profile. Hopefully they'll update with that eventually, but for now it's Ni200, Ti, or SS.

 

[WileE]

Don't let that stop you. The pic's I posted were builds I'm running on a DNA-40.
That is why I suggested using the Wire Wizard Steam Engine app. As you can see below it tells you the offset required for your desired temp. Start there and then just tune temp to taste.

 

[Stringplucker]

Great information. Thanks for sharing!

 

[jsocal]

I just clen my ti and ni 200 builds in temp control just as I would vape and a ultra sonic cleaner. I "dry burn" to temp protect or dry coil at 500 degrees rinse in water repeat a few times then ultra sonic cleaner for 15 mins with just water. Gets 99% of gunk off getting ready to clean my 28g ni200 claptoned with 40g kanthal

 

[jsocal]

Before and after

 

[coilburner]

What the heck is nife 52?

 

[jsocal]

Haven't used it but from what it think I remember is it is nickle with more iron in it but I could be wrong

 

[WileE]

NiFe 52 = Nickel 52% Iron 48%
Main ingredient of Kanthal (Iron) combined with main ingredient of Nichrome (Nickel).
Neither Kanthal nor Nichrome have both.
The Nickel provides the high TCR required for Temp Control & the Iron provides the high resistance.
Had the build pictured in my Goblin been Nickel it would have required 19.5 wraps each to make .09Ω, it obviously wouldn't have fit, and even if it did my DNA-40 would not have sufficient power to get that much coil mass up to temp.

 

[jsocal]

What gauge is that I have dual 8 wrap ni200 28g and it's at .11

 

[WileE]

You must have very large diameter coils to have gotten .11 with dual 8 wrap 28ga Ni200.
The build deck on the Goblin is small. Biggest Claptons I've been able to fit are 2mm ID 27ga core with 36ga clapton
The build shown in my pictures is 1.5mm ID 28ga core with 34ga clapton

 

[jsocal]

.125 i.d. vertical on my aromizer velocity deck whatever that works out to in mm lol think it's 3mm

 

[coilburner]

NiFe 52 = Nickel 52% Iron 48%
Main ingredient of Kanthal (Iron) combined with main ingredient of Nichrome (Nickel).
Neither Kanthal nor Nichrome have both.
The Nickel provides the high TCR required for Temp Control & the Iron provides the high resistance.
Had the build pictured in my Goblin been Nickel it would have required 19.5 wraps each to make .09Ω, it obviously wouldn't have fit, and even if it did my DNA-40 would not have sufficient power to get that much coil mass up to temp.

So if I were to make a nifi coil what mode would I use it in?

 

[jsocal]

You use it in temp mode

 

[WileE]

So if I were to make a nifi coil what mode would I use it in?

Depends on what device your using it on. Basically there are 3 options.

1. Can be used on any device in Ni200 mode just start 80°F lower then you want and tune to taste. That's how I do it.
   
2. You can use it in Titanium mode. Just set it 20-30°F hotter then you want.
3. If you've got a DNA-200 or something that lets you set TCR then just input TCR.004°C and the NiFe 52 will read dead on what you set.

I highly recommend the free Steam Engine coil calculator wire wizard shown in my post above. It will give you the required offset for any alloy when used in Nickel mode (which all TC modes have) & it also allows you to download the CSV/TCR file for any alloy to input into a DNA-200 etc.

I run my NiFe 52 builds on my DNA-40 & Tube Mech's. Obviously the DNA-40 is in Nickel mode (since that's all it has) and therefor I have to use an offset. I've done a dry cotton burn test and at setting of 380°F with the NiFe 52 it just showed a light brown on the dry cotton so 380 = actual 460°F, but I like a warm vape so I run 400°F on the Goblin Mini. Of coarse the atomiser will have a big affect on how hot you can run it. With the Goblin the Airflow is directly under the coils and it wicks really well with the modification I've done to it.