I read a couple different people stating some misinformation about the V2 versus the V1 provari, and stating that it is pointless to upgrade the V1 because of the reasons that are stated in a few others plus the following quote (i don't mean this to be rude or offensive, i only aim to clarify things a little):
Originally Posted by AZCraig 
I spend plenty of time at 5.0 to 5.5 volts with my Provari v1 and Boge 3.0 cartos (in tank and out of tank).
One of the things to consider is that with a higher resistance cartomizer / atomizer, you are able to drive things at a higher wattage without the same current draw that a lower resistance would need.
I.e. 5.5 volts into a 3 ohm load yields 10.08 watts with a 1.83 current draw
In order to generate the same heat with a 2ohm atomizer you'd have to drive it at ~4.5 volts to get the 10.08 watts but your current draw would be significantly higher: ~2.25 A
Battery failure / wear / voltage drop over time is tied to the current draw. So driving a 3 ohm load with a 1.83 A current draw will be potentially safer and "nicer" to your battery than the 2 ohm load with a 2.25 A current draw.
I don't mean for this to sound rude, but this is completely wrong.
The output current is not in any way tied DIRECTLY to the current that is drawn from the battery. Because of the way the boost circuit works, and the fact that the INPUT voltage (from the battery) is limited to whatever the battery is at the time of vaping. What I am saying is that, regardless of the load or voltage or current, the ONLY thing that will affect the current drawn from the battery (and thus the total wear on the battery and the voltage drop over time, as well as the run time on the battery) is the TOTAL OUTPUT POWER.
To use the example in the above quote, if you are using a 5.5 volt setting on a 3 ohm load you are getting 10.08 watts using 1.83 amps, but this is the amperage going into the load, NOT the amps drawn from the battery
if you are using a 2 ohm load, you will need to have the voltage set to 4.5 volts and will then end up with 10.125 watts and end up pushing 2.25 amps through the load, but then you have to remember the boost circuit.
since you are stuck at (we will assume) a 3.7 volt battery voltage, to get 10.1 watts out of a 3.7 volt battery you will need 2.73 amps coming out of the battery. this does NOT change if you put a different load on the OUTPUT of the boost circuit and change the voltage, it ONLY changes if the load power changes. It is sort of complicated to someone not well-versed in electronics, but if you look into it, you will see that it is power that must be conserved here and not the current.
Hope that clears things up ... and hope that shows that, in fact, there is a pretty decent reason to get a V2 over a V1
I spend plenty of time at 5.0 to 5.5 volts with my Provari v1 and Boge 3.0 cartos (in tank and out of tank).
One of the things to consider is that with a higher resistance cartomizer / atomizer, you are able to drive things at a higher wattage without the same current draw that a lower resistance would need.
I.e. 5.5 volts into a 3 ohm load yields 10.08 watts with a 1.83 current draw
In order to generate the same heat with a 2ohm atomizer you'd have to drive it at ~4.5 volts to get the 10.08 watts but your current draw would be significantly higher: ~2.25 A
Battery failure / wear / voltage drop over time is tied to the current draw. So driving a 3 ohm load with a 1.83 A current draw will be potentially safer and "nicer" to your battery than the 2 ohm load with a 2.25 A current draw.
I don't mean for this to sound rude, but this is completely wrong.
The output current is not in any way tied DIRECTLY to the current that is drawn from the battery. Because of the way the boost circuit works, and the fact that the INPUT voltage (from the battery) is limited to whatever the battery is at the time of vaping. What I am saying is that, regardless of the load or voltage or current, the ONLY thing that will affect the current drawn from the battery (and thus the total wear on the battery and the voltage drop over time, as well as the run time on the battery) is the TOTAL OUTPUT POWER.
To use the example in the above quote, if you are using a 5.5 volt setting on a 3 ohm load you are getting 10.08 watts using 1.83 amps, but this is the amperage going into the load, NOT the amps drawn from the battery
if you are using a 2 ohm load, you will need to have the voltage set to 4.5 volts and will then end up with 10.125 watts and end up pushing 2.25 amps through the load, but then you have to remember the boost circuit.
since you are stuck at (we will assume) a 3.7 volt battery voltage, to get 10.1 watts out of a 3.7 volt battery you will need 2.73 amps coming out of the battery. this does NOT change if you put a different load on the OUTPUT of the boost circuit and change the voltage, it ONLY changes if the load power changes. It is sort of complicated to someone not well-versed in electronics, but if you look into it, you will see that it is power that must be conserved here and not the current.
Hope that clears things up ... and hope that shows that, in fact, there is a pretty decent reason to get a V2 over a V1
