It's time for a cleaning and I've seen numerous methods for doing so. Is there one fool proof method you could recommend that even a dope like myself can't mess up?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Cleaning a 510 atty
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Some use alcohol, either ethanol (pure grain or vodka) or rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). There is a thread now going in the maintenance forum. I try to avoid alcohols unless nothing else works, as they can dissolve adhesives that may be present in your atty, depending on the make.
I do this. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-maintenance/85029-5-months-510-atty-cleaning.html
Polydent washing works really well for me, is very mild on the atty internals, gets everything out that can be gotten out...sometimes a clog is mechanical, not gunk, when the atty is so hot the coil bed warps and covers the air holes.
I have attys last several months with this method, and I use them heavily.
I do this. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-maintenance/85029-5-months-510-atty-cleaning.html
Polydent washing works really well for me, is very mild on the atty internals, gets everything out that can be gotten out...sometimes a clog is mechanical, not gunk, when the atty is so hot the coil bed warps and covers the air holes.
I have attys last several months with this method, and I use them heavily.
All of my thoughts regarding this subject are in this thread I created..
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ion/97014-facts-about-cleaning-atomizers.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ion/97014-facts-about-cleaning-atomizers.html
I use 151 proof vodka - the cheapest I've found is Galen's - charcoal filtered, no color, no flavoring - @$12 for a fifth. Unlike isopropyl, it's for human consumption and it dissolves the crud around the coil. Unlike water, it dries very quickly. Unlike compressed air - it won't break wires and unlike 'dry burns' it won't burn out coils. Unlike Pepsi, etc. it doesn't contain sugar that is not good for the atomizer.
I put it in an airtight container - it evaporates quickly - and you can tell it's working as the clear vodka becomes yellow. With 510 attys don't clean unless there's a significant loss in performance but if needed only soak for about a half hour because oversoaking can cause the wicking in and around the metal mesh to bunch up sometimes. Blow it out by mouth at both ends, a few drops of ejuice on the bridge to prime and restart. You might have to 'huff' it to jump start it after cleaning - take some puffs like starting a pipe or cigar without inhaling to get the atty hot, then continue normally. The vodka is close to pure grain alcohol which is used in blending some ejuices and also used in many flavorings, so it isn't totally foreign to parts of the atomizer. Canned air has bitterants that leave residue on the metal (as does isopropyl) so I avoid that as well.
I put it in an airtight container - it evaporates quickly - and you can tell it's working as the clear vodka becomes yellow. With 510 attys don't clean unless there's a significant loss in performance but if needed only soak for about a half hour because oversoaking can cause the wicking in and around the metal mesh to bunch up sometimes. Blow it out by mouth at both ends, a few drops of ejuice on the bridge to prime and restart. You might have to 'huff' it to jump start it after cleaning - take some puffs like starting a pipe or cigar without inhaling to get the atty hot, then continue normally. The vodka is close to pure grain alcohol which is used in blending some ejuices and also used in many flavorings, so it isn't totally foreign to parts of the atomizer. Canned air has bitterants that leave residue on the metal (as does isopropyl) so I avoid that as well.
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