cleaning coils
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By dry burning them and removing the soot buildup you should be able to extend the life by 3-4 times.
If you are dry burning them and you can no longer see the coils light up, this might be the time to rebuild or toss them and get another pack.
I have had coils that were covered, but by lightly brushing them after a few dry burns (with a toothbrush or some other brush) you can usually remove most of the buildup.
If you are dry burning them and you can no longer see the coils light up, this might be the time to rebuild or toss them and get another pack.
I have had coils that were covered, but by lightly brushing them after a few dry burns (with a toothbrush or some other brush) you can usually remove most of the buildup.
When they short out or go blank electrically, that's when they're done.
Meanwhile you can dryburn and rewick with cotton.
umm... mno no toothbrush on protank coils..
just dryburn and blow it out.
a toothbrush will wreck the coil.
use tweezers to shred the silica wick out
I sometimes use a toothpick to nudge chunks of crud off, after dry burning. Or a toothbrush - but GENTLY!!
And neither before dryburning, as it's still solidly stuck to the coil and wick. Trying to pry or brush it off at that time will probably deform and destroy the coil.
And neither before dryburning, as it's still solidly stuck to the coil and wick. Trying to pry or brush it off at that time will probably deform and destroy the coil.
I have a aerotank. I remove the coil and run under HOT water for a few minutes. Dry the atomizer with paper towels and blow dry the coils and wicks with mouth. Re-install the coil/wick into the base and back on your unit. Pulse the button for about 4-5 seconds. At first, you won't see much. But after a few pluses you'll start to hear crackling and the coil will start glowing. Just keep pulsing until the entire coil glows when pulsed. Then I re-rinse to wash off all the soot and burnt debris. Blow through and dry to remove residual water. Place a few drops of your juice to re-wet the wicks so when you re-install you get dry hits. and you're done!! Do some more reading in this site there are some great articles about converting to single micro coils. The use less energy and won't suck up so much juice. Those dual coils are juice hogs. I run mine at about 7.5 watts.
Hope this helps...
Hope this helps...
You use a toothbrush on a protank coil head???? Or are you talking about a dripper where the coil is big and exposed?
There are a few suggestions in the "tips and tricks" section on the forum here!
My favorite is to run your coils through the coffee maker. I use my keurig brewer, place the coils in a clean cup, run a cycle of hot water into the cup with your coil, let it sit til it cools, blow it off, and repeat a few times, then air dry, and ready to go!!
My favorite is to run your coils through the coffee maker. I use my keurig brewer, place the coils in a clean cup, run a cycle of hot water into the cup with your coil, let it sit til it cools, blow it off, and repeat a few times, then air dry, and ready to go!!
On occasion
But just the tip, or leading corner, so it's really just the front row of bristles. And, as said, gently, after dry burning. And not so much a "brushing" action, more poking, so the bristles go around the coil, gently scraping off the plaque PS - Kayfuns, too, if needed!
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It's OK to dry burn with wick in place? I'm new here and want to make sure.
If factory, yes, since it's silica. You can dry burn silica, and it will actually clean up a bit. You do have to take off the chimney and remove the flavor wicks to actually see the coil and main wick, necessary to dry burn.
Some don't bother replacing the flavor wicks. They often aren't re-useable, but can be replaced with cotton from cotton balls, swabs, or 100% cotton yarn, or 2 1 mm strands of silica. Most of us who rebuild use cotton, which can NOT be dry burned - it just burns when dry
Some don't bother replacing the flavor wicks. They often aren't re-useable, but can be replaced with cotton from cotton balls, swabs, or 100% cotton yarn, or 2 1 mm strands of silica. Most of us who rebuild use cotton, which can NOT be dry burned - it just burns when dry
I've just put a cotton wick for the first time. Stole a cotton ball from Mom, 100% cotton but not sterile. Experts will make all kind of suggestions, but, you know, "wick in hand, etc."
Loose cotton, as in the mentioned cotton ball. Sterile makes sense, but I never boiled mine. Some choose to, and say it takes away some initial flavor they find in the unboiled cotton.
I'd look for a bag of cotton ball from the pharmacy thats not likely to have bleach in it.
I would probably just start rebuilding g the coils. It's really not that hard and probably takes less time than cleaning and drying g the old coils. Plus if your gonna tear the coil down to clean it anyways, you might as well replace it imo. There are some great rebuilding videos on YouTube.
Good luck!
Good luck!
WAtched a few videos tonight on rebuilding. One from the tips and tricks section here, he used 30 gauged wire. Anyone know some good places to buy this or another type I should use. Right now I'm using stock coils 2.8 omhs. I don't really know what the difference is in the coils as far as the draw
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