Cleaning metal CE2

[robl45]

any ideas on how to clean the metal CE2's. I can clean my pulling out the rubber piece over the coil, flushing out and dry burning, but then it will leak and its really house use only. i've tried before to flush water in to the cartomizer with a syringe through the fill holes, but that didn't work so great, the dry burn didn't work very well either.

hoping someone else has some ideas. i used my thick liquid that worked better in the got vapes ce2's then it worked in the normal ce2's but that lasted all of two days and now they won't wick so i'm hoping to be able to clean them out and use them again especially when gotvapes is taking their sweet time restocking the CE2's

i'm using old ce2 now that i cleaned and dryburned but i had to remove the rubber piece and even being careful i managed to suck in some juice so definately can't travel with it and no way can i put the rubber piece back in, its hard enough on the clear ones to get back in.

 

[BanjoMan]

I know you've heard my spiel on this already but I'd like to add a few "truths" I have on the metal CE2's. Not everyone will agree with me I'm sure but I've been using them every day for a long time and tried just about everything.

1. The only effective way to dry burn these is to remove the cup ring.
2. Unless you replace the cup ring after cleaning your only real alternative is to use the rubber o-ring instead, which is hit or miss as far as controlling leakage. (I know some people replace the cup ring every time but I find it a real pita)
3. Using just the o-ring is fine and even improves wicking but you're gonna have to keep the carto upright as much as possible, otherwise you risk getting a little juice in the airtube.

It's just the nature of the beast with the CE2's. I wish whoever designed the new Vision set-up would think about making a CE2 sized metal carto.. it might solve the problem once and for all. (hint, hint)

 

[robl45]

yea, I put the rubber donut in, still managed to suck in a mouthful of juice last night. at least when you do it with the clear ones, you can see where the juice is so you know it ain't getting in the tube.

I'd buy the vision, even though I really don't like spending that much on one piece. yea its bigger but still there is one coil to go bad, much rather have 2 or 3 for same price and fill slightly more often. an XL CE2 lasts me like an hour and a half of constant vaping, filling really isn't that big of a deal.

but the real dealbreaker for me on the vision is the ohms are too high. I need 2.4-2.6, otherwise they just gunk up too quickly on me.

hopefully these new CE2's coming are better. what really sucks is I'd buy the old CE2 clears and some of the replacement thicker tubes but I don't know what the new CE2's will be like, and by the time we find out what those are like, the old ones will be sold out of the ohms I need.

 

[Stretch333]

Try using a drip tip rob. I've been able to get away with that and just the donut, without drinking any juice, for a while.

I figured the pressure would crack the top, but they're still breaking at the base long before that.

 

[slappy]

Cleaning SS is always been difficult, is why I went with clearos. Usually a vodka bath and dry burn, with all the seals out, works. You may need to scrape the crude off the atty and wicks at the side of the cup, CAREFULLY. I killed alot of atties by scraping too hard.

To keep the juice out of your mouth, you could try using the cup ring upside down (no donut). If you use the tip that comes with the ce2 it should keep the cup ring pressed agains the cup for a better seal. Atleast it works with the clearos. Not sure if the length is different in the SS versions. A drip tip would be longer but may not seat all the way. Either way I keep mine up right most of the time and tilt it prior to a vape. On it's side as the level goes down, but having a clearo helps visually determine the amount of juice hanging around the cup.

Good luck.

 

[VapingMattCA]

Back when I used my metal CE-2 XLs I pulled the coil cup gasket out rinsed with water and then put in 91% iso proly alc for about an hour. I then blew them out and placed coil side facing a fan for a couple of hours. I then dry burned until the wick and coil looked like new. To put the coil cup gasket on I marked with a maker where the wick indentations were and then installed the gasket lining up the marks I made with the wick indentations in the atty cup. Using a good flash light helps too. I used metal CE-2s XLs for about a month with weekly cleanings. I tried a pack of the clear CE-2s and found them to be junk as the only way I could get them to work right was to completely remove the gasket over the coil cup and then use 2 of the black rings over the coil to keep the juice from going where it shouldn't.

If the new Vision works as well as Chris says it does it might be worth getting that instead of bothering with the Mit CE-2s. They may cost more but I have never had a CE-2 die from natural causes. The few that died were the result of me dry burning them too long.

 

[Adrena]

Why make it so hard on yourselves? less then a month into vaping and I went right to SS ce2...
OK I admit I don't "tip over" my stuff having all bats that stand on end and using lanyards, or just standing on desk like the ego is now.
So my ritual?
Open the SS XL pull out and throw away rubber cup. keep lil o ring stopper.
fill (with standard bottles), place rubber o ring on ceramic cup, attach drip tip, use, set up right.
lastly dry burn every 2 to 3 days....
Water, vodka, and alcohol soaking I just don't get it?

I'm still using my first ever ce2 good as new 5 months later....
Admittedly in rotation with my tanks and all these new toys GV has.
(Refer to siggie)

 

[JackSam]

I found sometimes they get a juice buildup though the wick itself.

Something to watch out for, when you pull the inner plug out, make sure to push back down on the cup. It has a tendency to be pulled up as well. What I do normally to minimize that is trim the molding remnants on the outside of the plug with some clipers

Water, vodka, and alcohol soaking I just don't get it?

I find soaking does nothing anyway.

 

[robl45]

great suggestions people. I am trying the rubber cup upside down in one of the CE2's. I find as other people have mentioned, one of the bigger problems is the wick gets gunked up. especially when I put in thicker juice. I don't know that I will be able to save some of these because unlike the clearos, while I can wash out with hot water, not much else you can do, can't get up close and personal like with the clear ones.

 

[Randyrtx]

I've found the plunger from a 3ml BD syringe with the rubber seal removed makes a handy tool for reseating the cup seal in my clear CE2s. Might work for the metals as well.

 

[zoiDman]

I've found the plunger from a 3ml BD syringe with the rubber seal removed makes a handy tool for reseating the cup seal in my clear CE2s. Might work for the metals as well.

The head of a Dry Wall Screw also works perfectly.

 

[cryx]

The head of a Dry Wall Screw also works perfectly.

I use the syringe needle's safety cap. Perfect fit!

I've noticed that while certain sugary juices tend to gunk up the wick, it seems to really be related to how well it's wicking. What has worked for me is to improve the wicking to minimize dry-burns is to trim the outer cup notches into more of a V. Don't make it any deeper or it will start leaking. Also V notch the inner seal that extends into the cup to keep the coil well away from the the silicone. This avoids the leaking inherent to flipping the seal over, or not fully seating the seal.

A few times a week, or when it gets a slight burnt taste, I'll take a fresh battery and do ~6 extremely fast & long draws. There's not much vapor and a little juice might get in your mouth, but it seems to act as a mini-dryburn. I only have to do a full dryburn maybe once a month at most. I've had cartos cared for in this way last for hundreds of refills.

 

[zoiDman]

I use the syringe needle's safety cap. Perfect fit!

I've noticed that while certain sugary juices tend to gunk up the wick, it seems to really be related to how well it's wicking. What has worked for me is to improve the wicking to minimize dry-burns is to trim the outer cup notches into more of a V. Don't make it any deeper or it will start leaking. Also V notch the inner seal that extends into the cup to keep the coil well away from the the silicone. This avoids the leaking inherent to flipping the seal over, or not fully seating the seal.

A few times a week, or when it gets a slight burnt taste, I'll take a fresh battery and do ~6 extremely fast & long draws. There's not much vapor and a little juice might get in your mouth, but it seems to act as a mini-dryburn. I only have to do a full dryburn maybe once a month at most. I've had cartos cared for in this way last for hundreds of refills.

The "V" notch mod is a time tested technique.

Another thing you can do at Every refill is to gently brush the coil/wick with a Dentek brush dipped in Vodka. Prolongs the time between dry burns.