Cleaning a metal CE2

[Clinton350]

I've been vaping about a month now. I started with a 510 kit with cartomizers but was never totally satisfied with cartos. Overfilling issues, bad carto issues, ect ect. Then I tried CE2 clearomizers and for the most part I'm thrilled with them except for the plastic tube cracking issue that everyone has with them.

So I've ordered some metal CE2s (which I have not received yet) but I'm somewhat concerned about how to clean them. I took advantage of the first clearomizer that cracked on me and practiced disassembling and cleaning it. It was pretty simple (got instruction from youtube videos) except for replacing the lower most rubber cup. Getting that aligned correctly over the ceramic cup can be a bit tricky and I'm just not sure I'll be able to do it on a metal CE2 where you cannot see whether its lined up correctly or not.

I may try the syringe mod to fix my clearomizers but I would really prefer to use the metal ones because they are so much more durable which is important when I'm at work. I really don't want a clearomizer to come apart in my shirt pocket. Any tips on reassembling these without being able to see what you're doing?

Also after cleaning a metal CE2 can you bake them or something to dry them out instead of pulling them completely apart to dry the wicks? Thanks.

 

[Clinton350]

Wow.....no help? None of you use the metal CE2?

 

[Critter Man]

I was thinking about getting some of these, so I'm waiting to see if anyone replies too. Hope this bump helps.

 

[Clinton350]

I was thinking about getting some of these, so I'm waiting to see if anyone replies too. Hope this bump helps.

Hopefully I know this isn't the best section of the forums to get help with this but I'm a newly registered member so I cannot post anywhere else. If I don't get help here I'll repost it somewhere more appropriate when I can.

 

[Nomoreash]

As for the Clearos cracking, if you like those better you can do the BD Syringe mod which is just basically getting some 3ml BD Syringes and cutting them to size of the original tube and using those for the tube, they are much more durable but still not as pocket friendly as they will come off the base easer under pressure. For aligning the silicone seal that goes over the ceramic cup you can use a paper cup bent on one end and use the bent end in one of the notches to align it before you push it down if needed.

I’ve never used the steel ones but afaik you don’t take them apart. Just remove the seals run them under water, soak them or whatever you prefer to get them clean, let them dry and do a dry burn. I do the same thing with my modded clearos as I don’t take them apart anyway for cleaning. If they are really caked after the dry burn you may have to rinse them again to get all the residue out that came off during the dry burn.

You can bake them I would think if you want. I use alcohol as the final rinse as it evaporates quicker then just put them over my computer fan. They dry pretty quick that way but whatever method works best for you.

 

[Clinton350]

I’ve never used the steel ones but afaik you don’t take them apart. Just remove the seals run them under water, soak them or whatever you prefer to get them clean, let them dry and do a dry burn.

Yeah I don't plan to take them all the way apart as in "remove the metal tube from the threaded base". But it would seem you would have to remove all three (mouthpiece, rubber o-ring and rubber cup) rubber pieces in order to circulate water through the reservoir area. It's that rubber cup that sits directly on top of the ceramic cup that has me concerned. I'm not sure I could get the slots in it line up directly over the wicks or be able to tell if it was seated all the way down on top of the ceramic cup without being able to see through the tube.

Maybe I'm worrying over nothing. But I won't stop thinking about it till I try to do it or someone tells me their experience with it. Thanks for the input though.

 

[Nomoreash]

Yeah I don't plan to take them all the way apart as in "remove the metal tube from the threaded base". But it would seem you would have to remove all three (mouthpiece, rubber o-ring and rubber cup) rubber pieces in order to circulate water through the reservoir area. It's that rubber cup that sits directly on top of the ceramic cup that has me concerned. I'm not sure I could get the slots in it line up directly over the wicks or be able to tell if it was seated all the way down on top of the ceramic cup without being able to see through the tube.

Maybe I'm worrying over nothing. But I won't stop thinking about it till I try to do it or someone tells me their experience with it. Thanks for the input though.

Once you get your own process down it's pretty easy. A few things I would recommend doing is when you have the seal removed cut around the notches on each side with scissors or whatever works to give the wick more room. That way you don't have to worry about an EXACT line up and it will help from keeping the wick from getting in a bind. When replacing the seal look to make sure the cup is centered and don't push the seal all the way down initially. When you feel it start to go around the cup stop there then when you insert the ring and drip tip or whatever you use it'll push the seal down in to position the rest of the way without it being down to far.