Clear Coating your Reo Grand, AND Removing It

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ed101z

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Clear Coating your Reo Grand is Totally OPTIONAL. It is not Required.

Clear Coating will add a little more protection to the original paint, so I wanted to take the time to put together an article that illustrates the steps I took. There may be other techniques, but this is what worked for me. I can attest that it helped protect the Paint on my Copper Vein Reo Grand.

Preparing to Clear Coat.

Helpful tools you’ll need: (some are optional)

  • Carboard Box big enough to allow hands to go inside, and plenty of movement.
  • Lamp or Work Light.
  • An Old 510 Cartomizer with a hole drilled in it (on the end you put in your mouth). Can find one at a local vape shop.
  • Masking tape (Blue painting tape works better)
  • Paper Towel
  • Wire to hang it for drying

Before you begin spraying your Reo, I recommend practicing on something you have laying around the house.

Disassemble your Reo Grand, and wash it in Hot water using Dawn detergent.

After drying.. remove the Spring; Delrin Cover; and Firing Button. NO Need to mess with the Firing Pin. The door will enclose the Firing Pin when you get the door on. (illustrated in pictures)

Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel works great!! Make sure to read the manufacturer’s directions regarding temperature and humidity. Those factors can affect how the clear coating goes. Hold the can 10-12 inches away from the Reo. Spraying in bursts will work better than one continuous long spray. The goal is to get light, even coats while rotating the Reo.

  • A good way to rotate the Reo during spraying... is by using an old Cartomizer screwed in the 510 connection (RattlerX's idea), and then jam a Drill Bit inside it. It's crucial to have a strong, steady handle, so make sure to screw it snugly in the 510 connection. You don't want it coming loose while you’re spraying.

  • Take a small wade of Paper Towel and Wet it. Stick it in the Fire Button Hole. I used a Pencil to pack it in the hole.

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  • Put Blue Masking tape on the inside of the door. This is tricky to do because you have to cut a small piece, and slide the door half way on the Reo. Then, maneuver the tape under the door and stick it in place using your finger.

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  • Add another small piece of Paper towel inside the Spring Hole on the bottom of the Reo.

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  • Ready to Go

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  • LINT- To help avoid LINT from getting on the fresh spray, get an empty cardboard box and lay it on the side. Set a work light in front of the box entrance (behind your shoulder is best) so you have good vision. Make sure you have plenty of elbow space so you can move your hands around inside the box as you're holding the Reo. The box helps to increase vision (light bounces off sides), as well as reducing LINT from getting on the fresh coating.

  • ROTATE DURING and AFTER Clear Coating to minimize running.

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* If you get Clear Coat on the 510 connection... don't sweat it. When it dries, you can take a razor blade to cut around it, and then scrap it off.

After spraying 3 Coats on my Copper Vein, I ROTATED it slowly. Rustoleum Clear Coat Enamel dries to the touch in 15 minutes, and to FULL Handling in 30 minutes. I recommend AT LEAST 2 COATS, and NOT Touching it for 12 hours to avoid Finger Prints being embedded.

Your hands may get tired when rotating, but it needs to be done. After 30 minutes, carefully remove the Drill Bit, and insert a piece of wire through the hole on the Cartomizer. You can now let it hang on something to dry - for 12 hours!

When it's DRY, the Door WILL be Difficult to move. Run a Hair Dryer over it to Heat it up. A Very Warm (almost Hot) Door will slide more easily from the body than if it's Cold. Slide the Door Up HALF WAY and stop. Stick your finger underneath to remove the Blue Tape. The Door should now slide all the way Off. If you notice Dried Clear Coat on the Edges, just take a Razor Blade and Carefully Trim it Off.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Removing the Clear Coat

I searched the internet for days, and called Automotive stores, LOWES, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, and everyone else I could think of. Everyone told me the CHEMICALS WOULD REMOVE the Base Paint UNDERNEATH the Clear Coat. I Did Not want that to happen. Chemicals were to risky, so I AVOIDED them.

You have to PECK on the Clear Coat using a SMOOTH, HARD object. This will CRACK the Enamel and cause it to PEEL Off.

NOTE: I had already applied 4-5 coats of Clear Coat on my Copper Vein. The MORE Clear Coats you add... the BETTER it will Crack and Peel Off. More Coats also adds BETTER Protection.



In the video, I'm totally surprised at how great the CV paint looks AFTER 8 months of use. I've had lots of stuff on my hands at times (salt from skin, sweat, oil, e-liquid, mayonnaise, mustard, ketchup, grease from food, and just about anything else you can think of (except that). Rustoleum Clear Coat really protected the paint!


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Final NOTE: Once you get all the Clear Coat Off, be sure to run your fingers over the entire surface. It should be very smooth. You don't want any tiny particles of clear coat remaining. Wash it under Hot water using dish detergent. At this point, you can add New Clear Coating, or Reassemble it and Vape!
 
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zero7starz

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    So I'm just a bit confused. Why do you remove the clear coating after applying it? It seems like you're removing all your hard work?

    I need to do this to mine. Totally ashamed to say I may have my mom do it. She is so handy and has done this kinda thing several times. My door already has a few scratches on it from my pocket. Hard to see unless you're looking in the right light. Gotta keep this pink beauty looking nice!
     

    ed101z

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    So I'm just a bit confused. Why do you remove the clear coating after applying it? It seems like you're removing all your hard work? ...

    If you mess up adding the first clear coat, you can let it dry for about 4 days. You want to make sure the clear coat is FULLY DRY before you attempt to chip it off.

    Another reason (and biggest reason to remove it) is because of Dropping it, or it sliding out of your pocket and getting scratched up. You'll see blemishes or chipping in the clear coat if that happens. Only way to get it looking new again, is removing it and adding new layers.

    Clear Coating will help protect the Paint more than not having any clear coat on it at all.
     

    zero7starz

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    If you mess up adding the first clear coat, you can let it dry for about 4 days. You want to make sure the clear coat is FULLY DRY before you attempt to chip it off.

    Another reason (and biggest reason to remove it) is because of Dropping it, or it sliding out of your pocket and getting scratched up. You'll see blemishes or chipping in the clear coat if that happens. Only way to get it looking new again, is removing it and adding new layers.

    Clear Coating will help protect the Paint more than not having any clear coat on it at all.

    So what you're saying is, put the clear coat on and after some time if the clear coat gets messed up, THEN remove it? (To make it look new and then to re clear coat it?)
     

    ed101z

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    So what you're saying is, put the clear coat on and after some time if the clear coat gets messed up, THEN remove it? (To make it look new and then to re clear coat it?)

    My Reo Grand fell out of my pocket onto the floor. The fall chipped some of the clear coating off in different areas. It didn't look so good after that. I had NO CHOICE but to Remove the Clear Coat. This technique was the only way I could think of WITHOUT using Chemicals - which would've taken the Paint off as well.

    After a lot of work, I was able to Remove ALL of the Clear Coating. The original paint still looked great. Then, I applied more 3 more coats of Clear Coating. It looks brand New now.

    **Do keep in mind that doing this is Totally OPTIONAL. It's not Required. Put serious thoughts into these procedures BEFORE attempting to Clear Coat your own Reo Grand. It's not a simple procedure to do, and certainly takes lots of work to undo (as I discovered the hard way).
     

    ed101z

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    Copper Vein is a unique, gorgeous, and special color. To bad that sweat, oil and salt from our hands will darken it over time. Only way to stop that from happening -- is to clear coat it. If you have any experience at all using spray paint, then you'll find that it's not really that hard to do. The real challenge is preparation, and I hope the pictures provide some ideas of how to go about it.

    I'm not advocating it's a piece of cake, but I'm not saying it's impossible to do either. I was nervous the first time, but that's only natural when you want to preserve beauty and perfection. Chewbacca looked awesome 8 months ago, and still does to this day! I personally will be putting 2 coats of clear coat on every Reo Grand I get - to protect the paint.
     

    Spydro

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    Nice write up and pictures.

    My first Reo is a Copper Vein Mini bought used that was nearly sold black on the outside, still CV on the inside. Stripping it back to TRA is the option with it I may eventually take. That said, I have 1 older and 1 new Silver Vein and a New Copper Vein that I still have not protected yet. Have the high temp VHT spray bought to do it but have not got around to it. One for sure, maybe both of the new ones need to go back to the Spa for 510 fixes when I get around to it, and the early VVG SV being darker is fine with me as is. I have never dropped any mod in near 2 years of vaping, so expect once coated they would hold up for a very long time. Even so, if I coat any of them at all it would be the 2 LP's after back from the Spa.
     
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    ed101z

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    Nice write up and pictures.

    My first Reo is a Copper Vein Mini bought used that was nearly sold black on the outside, still CV on the inside. Stripping it back to TRA is the option with it I may eventually take. That said, I have 1 older and 1 new Silver Vein and a New Copper Vein that I still have not protected yet. Have the high temp VHT spray bought to do it but have not got around to it. One for sure, maybe both of the new ones need to go back to the Spa for 510 fixes when I get around to it, and the early VVG SV being darker is fine with me as is. I have never dropped any mod in near 2 years of vaping, so expect once coated they would hold up for a very long time. Even so, if I coat any of them at all it would be the 2 LP's after back from the Spa.

    If you decide to sand the paint off, and take it to Tumbled Raw Aluminum... couldn't you repaint it? I can imagine the process of doing this. Since you're dealing with Aluminum... you'd probably have to sand it down really smooth, and spray a Primer on it. Then, once it dries, spray paint it any color you want.

    Lowes has some Copper Vein Paint that might work. Shop Rust-Oleum 12-oz Copper Spray Paint at Lowes.com

    Here is some Copper Vein Powder Coating Paint. Powder Coating Coat Paint Exterior Copper Vein 1lb New Virgin Powder | eBay

    Here is some Egyptian Blue Vein that looks interesting. Powder Coating Coat Paint Egyptian Blue Vein 1 lb New | eBay

    Although the Rustoleuom Clear Coat Enamel works good and offers protection from whatever is on your hands, I wish it were stronger and more durable. Had it been more durable, it may have survived the fall from my pocket as I bent over to pick something up. And I probably wouldn't have had to peck the old clear coat off, and add new layers. I bet the VHT Spray would hold up a lot better over time. Found some VHT at TCGLOBAL.com Good pricing too.
     

    Spydro

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    If you decide to sand the paint off, and take it to Tumbled Raw Aluminum... couldn't you repaint it? I can imagine the process of doing this. Since you're dealing with Aluminum... you'd probably have to sand it down really smooth, and spray a Primer on it. Then, once it dries, spray paint it any color you want.

    Lowes has some Copper Vein Paint that might work. Shop Rust-Oleum 12-oz Copper Spray Paint at Lowes.com

    Here is some Copper Vein Powder Coating Paint. Powder Coating Coat Paint Exterior Copper Vein 1lb New Virgin Powder | eBay

    Here is some Egyptian Blue Vein that looks interesting. Powder Coating Coat Paint Egyptian Blue Vein 1 lb New | eBay

    Although the Rustoleuom Clear Coat Enamel works good and offers protection from whatever is on your hands, I wish it were stronger and more durable. Had it been more durable, it may have survived the fall from my pocket as I bent over to pick something up. And I probably wouldn't have had to peck the old clear coat off, and add new layers. I bet the VHT Spray would hold up a lot better over time. Found some VHT at TCGLOBAL.com Good pricing too.

    Thanks for the thoughts/effort. I wouldn't repaint any of my metal Reos though. I've never been into "colors" much on my mods. Had my first metal Reo been a TRA, they would probably all be TRA's. Anyway, if one ever got so bad that the original finish just had to come off I'd chemically strip it to raw aluminum and call it good. I've been told the "veins" have the TRA finish under them. Except for the two TRA's, all four of my other metal Reos are veins. So I would use a chemical stripper to take the vein off, clean it up and leave the TRA finish raw as is not altering it at all by sanding, etc. Since I've never dropped any mod in near two years of vaping the original finish ever getting that bad from chips/scratches, etc will probably never happen. So only getting too dark with patina like the Mini came with might be reason enough.

    The feel/easy care of the TRA's make them my favorite of all the metal Reos offered... so my LP and LP/SL Grand TRA's are the favorites of all my metal Reos.
    Yeah even the SL I didn't expect to like much being unsure of their look... but the TRA finish helps me get past the look I'm still not sure I like yet. It is growing on me though. ;)

    The satin clear VHT SP115 Flame Proof spray coating I bought for my veins is for very high temperature applications, will withstand 2000 degree's (commonly used for engine exhaust systems).
     

    ed101z

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    Thanks for the thoughts/effort. I wouldn't repaint any of my metal Reos though. I've never been into "colors" much on my mods. Had my first metal Reo been a TRA, they would probably all be TRA's. Anyway, if one ever got so bad that the original finish just had to come off I'd chemically strip it to raw aluminum and call it good. I've been told the "veins" have the TRA finish under them. Except for the two TRA's, all four of my other metal Reos are veins. So I would use a chemical stripper to take the vein off, clean it up and leave the TRA finish raw as is not altering it at all by sanding, etc. Since I've never dropped any mod in near two years of vaping the original finish ever getting that bad from chips/scratches, etc will probably never happen. So only getting too dark with patina like the Mini came with might be reason enough.

    The feel/easy care of the TRA's make them my favorite of all the metal Reos offered... so my LP and LP/SL Grand TRA's are the favorites of all my metal Reos.
    Yeah even the SL I didn't expect to like much being unsure of their look... but the TRA finish helps me get past the look I'm still not sure I like yet. It is growing on me though. ;)

    The satin clear VHT SP115 Flame Proof spray coating I bought for my veins is for very high temperature applications, will withstand 2000 degree's (commonly used for engine exhaust systems).

    I Love the TRA finish as well, and the SL just gives it a definitive look of character. I've thought about getting one just for sole purpose of not having to worry about paint. But then I'd drop it, and take a big chunk of aluminum out. HMMM? But fixing a dropped TRA would be a breeze compared to dealing with paint, strippers, and clear coats. ;)

    The SP115 sound interesting, but I probably would opt for the SP145 because of it specifying "Excellent durability and finish".

    Spyd, you'll surely drop your Reo now since you said you hadn't. Just had to say that. :facepalm: If I ever hear cussing and shouting out there in Nevada, I know it's you dropping your Reo. :D
     

    Spydro

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    I Love the TRA finish as well, and the SL just gives it a definitive look of character. I've thought about getting one just for sole purpose of not having to worry about paint. But then I'd drop it, and take a big chunk of aluminum out. HMMM? But fixing a dropped TRA would be a breeze compared to dealing with paint, strippers, and clear coats. ;)

    The SP115 sound interesting, but I probably would opt for the SP145 because of it specifying "Excellent durability and finish".

    Spyd, you'll surely drop your Reo now since you said you hadn't. Just had to say that. :facepalm: If I ever hear cussing and shouting out there in Nevada, I know it's you dropping your Reo. :D

    The key is to stop dropping them completely, never drop one again. ;)

    I'm very long retired, seldom go out and when I do seldom take a metal Reo with me. When I do I take a Woodvil 99.99% of the time, usually just in a shirt pocket. I have a VapeSox for any of my Reos as well if I were to go out long enough to want to take a spare Reo along, or to carry even just the one I'm using. So I highly doubt you'll ever hear me cussing about a dropped Reo. One does get tipped over on my wood computer desk now and then because I still haven't decided on a stand for my Reos yet, but that doesn't hurt them at all. That might become a problem with the LP/SL TRA if I ever tip it over though since it now wears a new bf Lancia atty with glass tube (but I have more glass tubes coming and it's poly and SS tubes for backups plus those of a second Lancia that is still just a dripper). So if you ever do hear me cussing, it'll probably because of what some people, this country and world has become, not because I dropped a Reo. :)
     
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