I'm looking to purchase clearomizers for my KR808D-1. Can someone either point me to the right place as to where the best place to purchase these? In addition, I'm confused regarding the ohms of these Clearomizers, there seems to be different variations. What is the differences?
Clearomizers and Ohms?
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May I place a question here to avoid creating another thread related?
I too am looking at an upgrade to my current cartomizer but lack in understanding on the ohms as well?
Trying to weigh my options.... What Ohms is required for my Yeti 510 eGo? Want A better TH dose Ohms help to change this effect?
I too am looking at an upgrade to my current cartomizer but lack in understanding on the ohms as well?
Trying to weigh my options.... What Ohms is required for my Yeti 510 eGo? Want A better TH dose Ohms help to change this effect?
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Copy and paste from net Hope it helps Nutsnbolts 1 year old but some info there.
Watts = Volts X Volts / Ohms
For example, a standard 3.5 ohm 801 atomizer on a 3.7V battery generates 3.7 X 3.7 / 3.5 = 3.9 watts.
[A standard 2.3 ohm 510 atty on its 3.2V battery does a bit better with its 4.5 watts: one of the reasons for its excellent vapor production and popularity.] However, most vapers find that 6-8 watts is the sweet spot.
Prior to 2010, only a 5V mod could deliver that sweet spot experience: 7.1 watts for the 801 atty. Thus the popularity of high-voltage mods (which won the 2009 Vapy Award for Best Innovation of the Year).
This year, LR (low-resistance) atomizers were introduced for the most popular models: 510, 801, and 901. [NOTE: They all need to be used on batteries of at least 450 mAh, e.g., the Fat Batts or Mods.] Most LR attys are 1.5 ohms, but alternatives (e.g., 2.0 ohms) have been appearing.
For example, a 1.5 ohm LR 510 atty on a 3.4V eGO generates 7.7 watts: sweet! [On a 3.7V mod, however, I prefer a 2.0 ohm atomizer: 6.8 watts ... rather than the 9.1 watts of the 1.5 ohm LR atty.]
All Greek to me.......
Watts = Volts X Volts / Ohms
For example, a standard 3.5 ohm 801 atomizer on a 3.7V battery generates 3.7 X 3.7 / 3.5 = 3.9 watts.
[A standard 2.3 ohm 510 atty on its 3.2V battery does a bit better with its 4.5 watts: one of the reasons for its excellent vapor production and popularity.] However, most vapers find that 6-8 watts is the sweet spot.Prior to 2010, only a 5V mod could deliver that sweet spot experience: 7.1 watts for the 801 atty. Thus the popularity of high-voltage mods (which won the 2009 Vapy Award for Best Innovation of the Year).
This year, LR (low-resistance) atomizers were introduced for the most popular models: 510, 801, and 901. [NOTE: They all need to be used on batteries of at least 450 mAh, e.g., the Fat Batts or Mods.] Most LR attys are 1.5 ohms, but alternatives (e.g., 2.0 ohms) have been appearing.
For example, a 1.5 ohm LR 510 atty on a 3.4V eGO generates 7.7 watts: sweet! [On a 3.7V mod, however, I prefer a 2.0 ohm atomizer: 6.8 watts ... rather than the 9.1 watts of the 1.5 ohm LR atty.]
All Greek to me.......
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Copy and paste from net Hope it helps Nutsnbolts 1 year old but some info there.
Watts = Volts X Volts / Ohms
For example, a standard 3.5 ohm 801 atomizer on a 3.7V battery generates 3.7 X 3.7 / 3.5 = 3.9 watts.
Prior to 2010, only a 5V mod could deliver that sweet spot experience: 7.1 watts for the 801 atty. Thus the popularity of high-voltage mods (which won the 2009 Vapy Award for Best Innovation of the Year).
This year, LR (low-resistance) atomizers were introduced for the most popular models: 510, 801, and 901. [NOTE: They all need to be used on batteries of at least 450 mAh, e.g., the Fat Batts or Mods.] Most LR attys are 1.5 ohms, but alternatives (e.g., 2.0 ohms) have been appearing.
For example, a 1.5 ohm LR 510 atty on a 3.4V eGO generates 7.7 watts: sweet! [On a 3.7V mod, however, I prefer a 2.0 ohm atomizer: 6.8 watts ... rather than the 9.1 watts of the 1.5 ohm LR atty.]
All Greek to me.......
It is definitely all mathematical. Anyone want to put it in layman terms lol.
I think I read it 5 times already but still unclear a bit. Perhaps partly due to the fact I'm not sure what is exactly out there. Are there really noticeable difference between the different OHMs?
Buy the smallest number of ohms you can get. Fluxomizer brand goes down to 2.4/2.6
Why the lowest? I like to understand it without all the mathematical computations. What am I to expect to experience if I went with the lowest VS the highest, etc. ?
+1 0n that, why lower resistances? longer battery life, less likely to burn out the atomizer? better TH? I too would like to understand more and be well educated before deciding to buy a clearomizers or not.
the lower the ohm the shorter the life of the atty, or the easier it is to burn it out. A lot of that talk about "sweet spot" you hear in VV vaping is obsolete now. Basicaly what your looking for is the perfect wattage. You can find the same wattage (within 1000ths of a watt) using different voltages and ohms. The lower the ohm (resistance) the more watts that will be put out of a PV. For instance most PV's are 3.7V the lower the ohm on the atty the higher the wattage therefore translating into warmer vapor, stronger throat hit, etc.
It basically boils down to trial and error. For clearomizers, they usually rate them in a +-.2ohm range. If your using a standard sized "typical" cigarette style e-cig, the voltage isn't usually over 3.5V (even though they claim 3.7V) I have tested many ciagrette style e-cigs on a multimeter and found they are usually between 3-3.2V. My recommendation would be to try something middle of the road, without knowing what ohm you are running for your atty's now. I can't tell you which way to go. For instance if your looking for a better TH, and more vapor, and your using a 3 ohm atty, I reccomend getting clearomizers with a lower resistance (lower ohm rating).
All in all, find ut where you are now and go from there!!
Hope this helps
It basically boils down to trial and error. For clearomizers, they usually rate them in a +-.2ohm range. If your using a standard sized "typical" cigarette style e-cig, the voltage isn't usually over 3.5V (even though they claim 3.7V) I have tested many ciagrette style e-cigs on a multimeter and found they are usually between 3-3.2V. My recommendation would be to try something middle of the road, without knowing what ohm you are running for your atty's now. I can't tell you which way to go. For instance if your looking for a better TH, and more vapor, and your using a 3 ohm atty, I reccomend getting clearomizers with a lower resistance (lower ohm rating).
All in all, find ut where you are now and go from there!!
Hope this helps
Adrena put it beautifully. But then you asked for it "in laymans terms". Those actually WERE laymans terms.
Having control over the HEAT in your PV is the issue. Some find 3.whatever volt vaping less satisfying than vaping at higher (hotter) (4v-5v +/-) voltages.
But you have no control over your battery's VOLTAGE output. But you can 'simulate' higher voltage. Lowering resistance is the key here. Your batteries might put out 3.2 V under load. A good vape needs about 6-7 watts.
A lower resistance element (atty) RAISES THE HEAT LEVEL (wattage) thereby giving you a more flavorful, and better TH kind of vaping experience. The downside is LR atties are made from THINNER WIRE so they tend to have a shorter lifespan than regular ones.
That's really all it is: Low resistance=thinner wire. Thinner wire gets hotter faster with a given voltage input. The same reason a toaster gets hotter faster than an electric oven, but it sure doesn't last as long.
The quest for this "warmer vape" has inspired all kinds of more powerful, higher voltage and even variable voltage PVs. devices. These do not need LR atties since they can run up past 6v!
But for you, for now... get the smallest # ohm Clearomizers you can. BTW, they work great.
Having control over the HEAT in your PV is the issue. Some find 3.whatever volt vaping less satisfying than vaping at higher (hotter) (4v-5v +/-) voltages.
But you have no control over your battery's VOLTAGE output. But you can 'simulate' higher voltage. Lowering resistance is the key here. Your batteries might put out 3.2 V under load. A good vape needs about 6-7 watts.
A lower resistance element (atty) RAISES THE HEAT LEVEL (wattage) thereby giving you a more flavorful, and better TH kind of vaping experience. The downside is LR atties are made from THINNER WIRE so they tend to have a shorter lifespan than regular ones.
That's really all it is: Low resistance=thinner wire. Thinner wire gets hotter faster with a given voltage input. The same reason a toaster gets hotter faster than an electric oven, but it sure doesn't last as long.
The quest for this "warmer vape" has inspired all kinds of more powerful, higher voltage and even variable voltage PVs. devices. These do not need LR atties since they can run up past 6v!
But for you, for now... get the smallest # ohm Clearomizers you can. BTW, they work great.
Where do you hear this??? I sure wish someone would inform those hundreds of people in line ahead of me on the 1 month plus long waitlist for the ProVari!
Exactly, I am probably a few behind you as I just ordered my Provari tonight. I have tried all sorts of LR attys and have the Joker AV and they work so differently. I love having the option of bumping up my voltage. Especially as my atty's start to wear out. A Brand new atty is fine but after a few weeks, it just needs a little more push. I can't imagine not having that option and would probably waste tons more money throwing out my attys well before they are dead because they aren't as satisfying!Where do you hear this??? I sure wish someone would inform those hundreds of people in line ahead of me on the 1 month plus long waitlist for the ProVari!
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3.7v battery + 2.8-3.0ohm = carto's taste burnt if I vape longer than 2 seconds.
3.7v battery + 3.0-3.2ohm = carto's don't burn (not easily at least)
I don't know how some people are vaping at 6v, mystified lol.
They perform great at 3.7v
3.7v battery + 3.0-3.2ohm = carto's don't burn (not easily at least)
I don't know how some people are vaping at 6v, mystified lol.
They perform great at 3.7v
The OP asked about Clearomizers. Those are different than cartos, right?
Clearomizers are CE2 cartos in a clear plastic tube. Originally they were in metal tubes. The difference between the CE2 and other cartos is that the coil is in a ceramic cup near the mouthpiece and has no filler to burn or melt. It has a horizontal coil and the others have a vertical coil surrounded by a filler to hold the liquid. They are both cartomizers that come in a variety of ohms.
Where do you hear this??? I sure wish someone would inform those hundreds of people in line ahead of me on the 1 month plus long waitlist for the ProVari!
Thanks now I feel confident weather I buy a FLüXomizer(Stainless) or Clearomizer.
But sad too, I'm anticipating getting a ProVari and now I find a waiting list Pooh. guess I should order now how long is the back up, weeks months?
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