Well, that's interesting. I have never used a mech mod before. Can I use my Protanks on them or do I need a low ohm? I'm at a few months vaping and haven't ventured into the wire wrapping thing yet. I bet ours are all in the same heldover shipment. I didn't order batteries from FT so that's not my hold up as I've heard it's batteries that are doing it. I've had 3 other FT orders and they came within 2 weeks. Very odd!
Clone: Private 2 (Grand Vapor)
- Thread starter the4thpower3
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U can use just about any atty on a mech. ProTank will work fine.
But rebuildable attys really shine on a mech mod.
The HK post holdup isn't a fasttech issue, it is a china issue.
FT had been great to me.
I have, until very recently recieved packages from FT in as few as 6 days.
Longest wait on something that was in stock has been around 10-12 days.
This HK Post holdup is effecting ALL packages coming out of china, not just ones with batteries. Everything is being xrayed.
They have great cs and I will definitely continue to do business with them for my direct from china needs.
But rebuildable attys really shine on a mech mod.
The HK post holdup isn't a fasttech issue, it is a china issue.
FT had been great to me.
I have, until very recently recieved packages from FT in as few as 6 days.
Longest wait on something that was in stock has been around 10-12 days.
This HK Post holdup is effecting ALL packages coming out of china, not just ones with batteries. Everything is being xrayed.
They have great cs and I will definitely continue to do business with them for my direct from china needs.
Update:
The only complaint I've heard about this mod is the button coming loose.
If the button is screwed in too far, the contact won't touch the battery.
If it is screwed out too far, everything is loose and will come apart easily.
So I decided to fool with mine, as it's not something I wanna have to worry about coming apart.
My first try was some blue loctite paste.
It comes in a stick, like a glue stick.
I put a small dab on a couple of the threads.
Put it together and it seemed all was well.
Later that day, I started having some odd misfires.
It seemed as if I had to hit the button at a weird angle to get it to fire sometimes.
It was really hit and miss.
Seemed to misfire about 10% of the time.
I thought I may have had the depth of the button a little too far in and it wasn't making good battery contact.
So then I looked to my battery.
Thought maybe that some of my batteries had an odd profile and werent hitting right.
Changing batteries didn't really seem to help.
So today at work, I decided to fool with it for a minute.
Took the switch apart and decided to use some regular blue loctite instead of the paste stick.
Put a very small dot on the threads and reassembled.
This time I didn't set the button so deep, hoping the pin would make contact further towards the battery.
It did make more solid contact with this depth setting, but the mod wouldn't fire at all.
I changed batteries, no fire.
Changed atty, no fire.
Took it apart again. Decided to really take a close look at everything.
Cleaned all the loctite out of both sides.
Button and contact.
Looking inside of the threaded portion of the contact assembly, it became apparent to me what needs to be done.
The issue is that the contact threads are too deep, and when you screw the switch into it, there is nothing for it to bottom out on. Hence why it becomes loose so easily.
If you use loctite, it kills the conductivity between the button and the battery contact. Which is why mine stopped firing after using liquid loctite.
The fix is to put something in the female threaded part of the assembly for the switch post to be tightened against.
I decided that a ball bearing would be perfect, as I had a bunch on hand at work.
Ideally a small rod of copper or brass would work great as well.
I decided to use a 1/8" bearing.
Put it in the female threaded side of the contact, then screwed the switch into it.
This worked perfect.
It took up a perfect amount of space for the switch to tighten against.
Now no loctite is really needed.
And if you do decide to use loctite, the circuit will still be conducted between the switch post and the ball bearing to the contact.
The 1/8" bearing sets the throw perfect.
It's deep enough that it doesnt weeble wooble, and far out enough that it will make solid battery contact.
I swear it even hits harder now.
Anyways, for any of you having switch issues, give this a shot.
The only complaint I've heard about this mod is the button coming loose.
If the button is screwed in too far, the contact won't touch the battery.
If it is screwed out too far, everything is loose and will come apart easily.
So I decided to fool with mine, as it's not something I wanna have to worry about coming apart.
My first try was some blue loctite paste.
It comes in a stick, like a glue stick.
I put a small dab on a couple of the threads.
Put it together and it seemed all was well.
Later that day, I started having some odd misfires.
It seemed as if I had to hit the button at a weird angle to get it to fire sometimes.
It was really hit and miss.
Seemed to misfire about 10% of the time.
I thought I may have had the depth of the button a little too far in and it wasn't making good battery contact.
So then I looked to my battery.
Thought maybe that some of my batteries had an odd profile and werent hitting right.
Changing batteries didn't really seem to help.
So today at work, I decided to fool with it for a minute.
Took the switch apart and decided to use some regular blue loctite instead of the paste stick.
Put a very small dot on the threads and reassembled.
This time I didn't set the button so deep, hoping the pin would make contact further towards the battery.
It did make more solid contact with this depth setting, but the mod wouldn't fire at all.
I changed batteries, no fire.
Changed atty, no fire.
Took it apart again. Decided to really take a close look at everything.
Cleaned all the loctite out of both sides.
Button and contact.
Looking inside of the threaded portion of the contact assembly, it became apparent to me what needs to be done.
The issue is that the contact threads are too deep, and when you screw the switch into it, there is nothing for it to bottom out on. Hence why it becomes loose so easily.
If you use loctite, it kills the conductivity between the button and the battery contact. Which is why mine stopped firing after using liquid loctite.
The fix is to put something in the female threaded part of the assembly for the switch post to be tightened against.
I decided that a ball bearing would be perfect, as I had a bunch on hand at work.
Ideally a small rod of copper or brass would work great as well.
I decided to use a 1/8" bearing.
Put it in the female threaded side of the contact, then screwed the switch into it.
This worked perfect.
It took up a perfect amount of space for the switch to tighten against.
Now no loctite is really needed.
And if you do decide to use loctite, the circuit will still be conducted between the switch post and the ball bearing to the contact.
The 1/8" bearing sets the throw perfect.
It's deep enough that it doesnt weeble wooble, and far out enough that it will make solid battery contact.
I swear it even hits harder now.
Anyways, for any of you having switch issues, give this a shot.
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I used this product called Silver Conductive Pen on my switch threads. It didn't lock them, but made them tighter. I've had no misfires or the switch loosening.
I just got the Muffler drip tip clone from FT today. They fit the Trident clones ! 
I just got the Muffler drip tip clone from FT today. They fit the Trident clones !
View attachment 254557
Nice. How do you like it?
I had one on my order but it was delaying the rest of the order shipping, so I split it up.
Got my trident today. Loving it!
None of the issues that I have read of other people having.
Screw posts good and all orings in place and functioning.
savagemann, I like it a lot. They fit nicely on the Trident, and looks great. If your 510 center pin starts to loosen. I made a washer by twisting a piece of copper wire, and then I tighten it real good. It's not moving anymore.
I received a Private V2 tritone from FT today. All is good except one of the brass tubes were damaged, see pic. I opened a ticket with FT right after opening the package. Lets see what happens. FT did ship it within a day of ordering but it took 14 days to get through HK post.
From what I see so far aside the obvious buggered up brass tube this is a nice mod, especially for the money. I did remove rough edges from all threading and polished up the mod. When I get the brass tube I need to make the mod functional I am sure the mod will work out quite nice, especially when I tweak the positive pin to work as a floating pin. I have a SS trident just waiting to be installed on the mod if I can ever get the brass tube for it.
Anyone know where I can get a spare brass tube that will work with this mod?
From what I see so far aside the obvious buggered up brass tube this is a nice mod, especially for the money. I did remove rough edges from all threading and polished up the mod. When I get the brass tube I need to make the mod functional I am sure the mod will work out quite nice, especially when I tweak the positive pin to work as a floating pin. I have a SS trident just waiting to be installed on the mod if I can ever get the brass tube for it.
Anyone know where I can get a spare brass tube that will work with this mod?
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Bummer!
So far, FT customer service has been top notch.
I'm sure they'll sort you out.
They usually respond within 24 business hours.
Depending on when you contacted them, you may not hear back until monday.
So far, FT customer service has been top notch.
I'm sure they'll sort you out.
They usually respond within 24 business hours.
Depending on when you contacted them, you may not hear back until monday.
This is good to hear, I am sure they will fix me up. Unfortunately because of HK Post delays and their upcoming holiday I think it will be another 2-3 weeks before I get the mod up and running. Lucky I do not need the mod.
After 3 weeks of waiting finally I got my Pravate v2 1:1 from FT. I changed the contact pins and firing switch to pure copper
Where did you get the copper contacts from? Thx!
I opened a ticket with FT right after receiving mine with a damaged brass ext. tube. The next day they apologized, told me they sent me a replacement tube. The tube was mailed but I have not received it yet.
I got it from our local vaping FB group Vapor Malaysia Open Group https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=693167487364282&set=gm.196264620551924&type=1&theater
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I've told them I want a full refund because the other tube will do the same and if you get new ones they will probably do the same idk.
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finally got mine(copper,ss,brass) a couple days ago and cant get it to fire. no way, no how.
anyone have any issues?
anyone have any issues?
i've noticed from my friends v2 clone that the nimbus clone will not reach the contact of the center pin when screwed on and also the trident clone that i have will not screw on to the mod. Works fine with an Igo-W though! Solid feeling mod.
That pin moves, but it needs encouragement! Derangefinder the pin is probably too low, you need to push it upward I'm guessing
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