clone vs. authentic

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Coldrake

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idk i recently picked up a clone off ebay it was supposed to be a 91% but riptrippers off youtube tell me it has to have the 91% logo on the side of it to be the authentic one so anyways i bought this thing and my friend has a authentic kayfun light next to each other id say that it produce nearly the same quality taste and vapor production so i dont think its that much better to always get a authentic version ive not had any problems cept when i over filled it once it also has the airflow on the side instead of under the connector
That's a new one, an "authentic" clone.......:facepalm:
 

seek2

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I haven't read though this whole thread.

But that isn't true at all. You can get a $200 mod that is garbage, and a $25 clone (ehpro nemesis for example) that is great.

I have clones and genuine mods and rda's. They all have their own issues and niggles. No device is perfect. Whatever product you buy, you will need to research it before buying online, and if in person look at the device carefully and do a bit of research as well.

Also, each device may have slight variances due to tolerance and qa issues.
 

Mikex123

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Wow my thread really took off, thats cool. On average a authentic high-end mod is well worth it. It has greater compatibility, and the quality materials used allow for maximum conductivity. Most all clones i have come across have in complete junk. Drippers can be pretty good since they tend to be simple.

Buy a GGTS, a Ithaka, both authentic, and you are set. You will have a amazing vape experience no matter what and both pieces should outlive you. Throw in a Evolv 2 kick and youll be in vape heaven. I stacked 2 18650 batteries using a extention tube and have it set up with twisted quad coils. Now if only I can find a place with the piece in stock that allows you to use any drip tip (I like very long drip tips). Where to buy a GG you ask? Well if I can ever find the classifieds here so I can post on it, you can get one lol. Been waiting almost 2 weeks and I am still not verified (i used paypal method).
 
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Bimini Twist

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I don't support logo'ed clones, but at the same time I don't support overpriced flashlights simply because of the logo either.


Take the Hana Modz DNA30 V3 and the CANA DNA30 clone.

If you removed the logo from both devices so that both were plain, unmarked box mods, would you still pay $200 more for the Hana Modz version?

I wouldn't buy either. But if I had to, it would be the original just to support the originator of that mod.

Are you paying for the device, or are you paying for the bling to show off with?

I am paying for the device. Sometimes for the aesthetics. For instance, the OliveR by pdib and a Gus Lord that matches an old fountain pen I still use. I do not want to pay companies to rip off other designs.

And as for "designing the item" ALL mods are based on flashlights. Tube mods are especially nothing more than a flashlight with a 510 threaded socket and a flimsy, crunchy, often failing button. Box mods are a dime a dozen and no one can claim to have an original one.

Well, that says a lot. I have paid good money for a flashlight which, indecently incidentally, was designed and built in China. Neither it, nor the mechanical tube mods I've purchased have any of those symptoms. That is what you see in bad design, cheap materials, and/or poor quality control. It is what one would expect from companies who copy others works on the cheap.

Perhaps if you bought an authentic mod, you wouldn't feel that way. Do the research, of course. Even among the authentics, some are made better than others.

Dime a dozen on the box mods? Well, sure, nearly anybody can put one together in an Altoids tin. But to say the Reo or the OliveR are not original designs is disingenuous. One is a rugged work horse, and the other is a beautifully designed, hand crafted piece of highly functional art.

Take the Hana Modz DNA30 for instance. $275 for what? An aluminum box with a chip designed by Evolve that costs $45, some buttons you can buy on the internet for a couple of dollars each, some wires, a bit of epoxy, and a 510 threaded connector that you can buy on the internet for less than $10. I guess you can say they blueprinted out and machined their own box, but nothing about it is original. The chip isn't theirs. They didn't make the wires, or the buttons or the connectors. They just assembled pieces that they bought somewhere else. Their actual, final cost of production is around $75 with $200 in profit per box sold for something that is totally unoriginal and mostly made by someone else.

As Coldrake said, preposterous at best. You either left a ton of expenses out on purpose, or you really don't understand how things work in most countries.

I'm not supporting that. I'll buy the $70 clone, thanks. If it breaks then I'll just buy a real Evolve DNA30 chip and put that in and have the exact same thing as a real Hana for less than $120. Who knows, I can reprogram engine mapping in cars, I'm sure reflashing the DNA30 chip to display "Hana Sucks" on startup couldn't be that hard.

And when you start building hundreds or more of these (hopefully with your own design and look) be sure to let us know. And don't be upset if somebody starts pumping out thousands of copies and selling them on the cheap.
 
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Mikex123

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I want to know where you guys get your clones... i have the so called "high end" clones i spent near $100 on. I also have a GGTS, other high end authentics, even paid $450 for a 26650 mech with the pieces that actually conduct the electricity being 100% pure copper. NO clone I have tried -and its been a lot- gets the electricity to the coils like the authentic mods. I can get vape clouds twice as big yet cooler than my clones thanks to the far superior transfer of electricity. I think some of you dont realize hiw expensive (especially nowadays) quality metal that conducts electricity is. These indeed ARENT flashlights, they are APVs. Also, authentics come with floating pins, repelcement pins, 801, 901, 510 adapters, many times built right into the device. Thats a big added bonus imo. I havent spent much more money on authentic mods/attys than I have clones, and for the extra money I get a much better user experience, and in the time 5 clones would of been used and replaced, my authentic stuff will still be going strong. And if I have to endure the pain of scratching my expensive mod... cape cod cloths to save the day.

P.S. 100% pure copper contact pieces isnt worth the insane price hike. I am returning that $450 mech mod I mentioned I bought. It is a true beast, but doesnt perform better than anything else I have. Also, there is a limit.... I feel kinda stupid paying $450... it came with a matching 33mm atty as well, but still. If I was rich I would keep it but alas I am not. Mods/attys have a very powerful lure when it comes to impulse buys I have discovered.

P.S.S If you enjoy your clone a lot... more power to you. I wish I could be satisfied by something so much cheaper. I guess since I switched from cigars not light cigs are anything I require lots of vapor to come close to comparing.
 
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Nuclear Cowboy

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I've got some of the new TOBECO black edition Kayfun clones that are everybit as good as the originals. I've also got a few from FT and noname ebay models that are JUNK. Same goes with mods. Some are great, everybit as good as the originals, some aren't. With clones you pay's yer money and you takes yer chances.
 

Asbestos4004

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I have 2 authentic nemesis and a cloned nemesis....the clone has less voltage drop. I have 6 authentic kayfuns and 1 clone. The authentics are better but not 80 bucks worth of better. Original Tailfun beats the clone....but by $160? Nope. I buy what I like and use what I want. I'm all for supporting the mod makers....and I have the luxury of being able to do that. But I'm more in favor of seeing people get to enjoy the devices they want to use and can afford. Its ridiculous to think only a certain tax bracket should have the joy of a kayfun screwed to a nice dna30.....or a Stillare dripper on a nice copper mech. Buy whatever you want and don't let people make you feel bad about it.....but don't complain if your clone doesn't work. Its a gamble.
 

dice57

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I've got some of the new TOBECO black edition Kayfun clones that are everybit as good as the originals. I've also got a few from FT and noname ebay models that are JUNK. Same goes with mods. Some are great, everybit as good as the originals, some aren't. With clones you pay's yer money and you takes yer chances.

Tobeco is one of the clone makers I stay away from. Not a good success story for me. lol

Thing is with most Authentic, if something does get by q.c., then it's usually exchangeable or refundable. With clones it's hope for the best, and accept the worst. Even if it is returnable, it's often not worth the added price of postage to pursue. Some venders will send replacement parts though, but find often the ain'g worth chit.
 

Completely Average

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I wouldn't buy either. But if I had to, it would be the original just to support the originator of that mod.

What originator of the mod? Do you think Hana came up with the first box mod in history?

I can assure you they did not. They just cloned someone elses box mod, tossed, someone elses chip in it, etched their own logo on the outside and charged $275 for it.

And people like you will pay it. Why? Not because of the design which is NOT original. Not because of the chip which is NOT theirs. You'll pay that much for the logo, because showing off is just that important to you.


I am paying for the device. Sometimes for the aesthetics. For instance, the OliveR by pdib and a Gus Lord that matches an old fountain pen I still use. I do not want to pay companies to rip off other designs.

You're paying for the bling. For instance, can you tell me the precise amount of voltage drop you get from your OliveR right now without looking it up or going to measure it first? No? Then you clearly aren't paying for the function. You're paying for the appearance. The bling. The ability to show off. Nothing more.



Perhaps if you bought an authentic mod, you wouldn't feel that way. Do the research, of course. Even among the authentics, some are made better than others.

Perhaps if you actually did your research you would know more about the problems the majority of authentic mods have. Authentic Nemesis mods have the same crunchy button problems of the clones. Authentic Turtle Ship mods have problems with the buttons and battery rattle. Original King mods have problems with the locking rings. Etc.... If you can find a problem with a 1:1 clone then I can assure you the same problem exists on the original.

Dime a dozen on the box mods? Well, sure, nearly anybody can put one together in an Altoids tin. But to say the Reo or the OliveR are not original designs is disingenuous. One is a rugged work horse, and the other is a beautifully designed, hand crafted piece of highly functional art.

The Reo is just a generic box mod with a bottom feed dripper built in. I can assure you that no one there invented the box mod, nor the bottom feed dripper. In fact the first Reos used cartomizers, and not ones made by Reo. They didn't start using the bottom feed rebuildable atomizer until they cloned someone elses.

Your precious OliveR is nothing more than a Silver Bullet clone made out of wood. Something I could build myself in an afternoon for less than $30.

As Coldrake said, preposterous at best. You either left a ton of expenses out on purpose, or you really don't understand how things work in most countries.

$45 chip. $5 for the aluminum box, $10 in buttons, $10 for the 510 connector, maybe $0.5 in wire and $0.1 in epoxy. About half an hour assembly time.

If you think there's more to it than that then you don't know much about production.



And when you start building hundreds or more of these (hopefully with your own design and look) be sure to let us know. And don't be upset if somebody starts pumping out thousands of copies and selling them on the cheap.

I've already built my own mech mod. It's not hard. Quite easy in fact. Took about 5 hours total. It's not the prettiest mod out there, but I wasn't trying to make a pretty mod, I was just bored one afternoon and thought "what the heck" and built one.

You should try it sometime. Build your own mech mod. Perhaps if you did, and found out how easy and cheap it really is, you wouldn't be so quick to hand over hundreds of dollars to someone who spent 10 minutes cutting threads onto a bunch of prefab tubes you could have bought for $10.
 

edyle

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Many clones are really good and just 1/5 of the price of authentic one. Get quality clone and if you fall in love with it, get authentic one other vise get another clone. Mechs are just (really fine machined) steel tubes at the end..

Nope; whether it's really fine machined doesn't determine if it is a mech, it just determines how expensive its going to be.
 

edyle

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My fastech copper nemesis clone kicks like a mule, has awesome threads, top notch build quality and cost $25, get one or three and save yourself a fortune.

It's really the battery that does the work.

Use the wrong battery, and it could REALLY kick you like a mule!
 

Completely Average

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That's preposterous. At best.

Why?

I can buy a similar aluminum box kit for less than $4. $10 for the buttons. $10 for the 510 connector. $45 for the chip. Less than $1 for the wires, solder and epoxy used. Oh yeah, and $2 for the plastic battery box.

That's a total of just $72.

It would take MAYBE a half hour of assembly time and that's it.



What is preposterous is you thinking it costs significantly more than that. Go to any gun store. Ask to see the cheapest gun they sell and then ask yourself which is more complicated and difficult to make, that cheap gun with 20+ tiny moving parts, or a Hana Modz device that costs 5 times as much and only has 3 prefabricated buttons that move.

I can buy new rear shocks and springs for my Mustang for less than a Hana Modz box. Don't even try to justify the price of the Hana, it's all bling, and you're paying them around $200 per unit in pure profit just to show off if you buy one. You could build the exact same thing yourself for less than half the price, and it would be absolutely identical in every way to Hana's box.
 

Completely Average

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It's really the battery that does the work.

It's not only the battery that does the work.

Just an FYI for you here....

The difference between a brass Nemesis clone and an authentic GP Paps is 5 watts in favor of the clone if using a .2 ohm coil and the exact same battery.
 

Maurice Pudlo

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To clone or not to clone.I say that if the originals were more reasonably priced,there would not be such a market for fakes,uhm clones.Especialy the mechanicals.After all most with a few exceptions are not much more than a pipe and a switch.IMHO

Reasonable to you is not always reasonable to the designer. If a great design is made by a person who just happens upon it by sheer luck on his or her first try with no real money invested in the thing and they somehow can afford to put it into the mass market without selling off the kids, the house, a kidney, etc. I might buy into this ideology.

However, the type of resources you are talking about are in the millions of dollars, not tens of thousands. A clone has no need to risk market failure as the risk has been taken already. A short run item may just cost ten grand, for a simple item. something like an atty or a mod is going to run into the many tens of thousands. How many folks do you know who have that sort of expendable income to risk?

Lets say it does cost just $75 to make a mod you sell them for $150 and put that money right back into making 2000 more, your profit is zero. Your sales were $75,000 and you make nada.

Along comes China cloning your work, logo or not, and your potential customers are now gone. They don't need to buy a real one the clone is a perfect 1:1 copy. If that perfect copy did not exist the only route would be to buy the real deal, ie. save your pennies.

Maurice
 

Bimini Twist

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Average, I choose not to respond to your false assumptions regarding my knowledge and motivations.

$45 chip. $5 for the aluminum box, $10 in buttons, $10 for the 510 connector, maybe $0.5 in wire and $0.1 in epoxy. About half an hour assembly time.

If you think there's more to it than that then you don't know much about production.

OK, so you can do this and keep up with demand for hundreds or thousands of units. Try taking that business plan to the bank. Don't forget to pay your accountant well - they'll need to be very creative.

You should try it sometime. Build your own mech mod. Perhaps if you did, and found out how easy and cheap it really is, you wouldn't be so quick to hand over hundreds of dollars to someone who spent 10 minutes cutting threads onto a bunch of prefab tubes you could have bought for $10.

I intend to do just that. I bought an e-pipe that really disappointed me and have already sketched out a couple of ideas. The first will be a mechanical and if I like it, I'll try one with either a DNA or that Chinese 35W board. I will be borrowing a friend's wood lathe and some tools I have on hand. There is no way I will spend the money to gear up for multiple production runs - these will just be for myself. That should keep it at the fun/hobby level for me.:)
 

Maurice Pudlo

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I wonder if anybody uses authentic gold spoons, or just the common steel clones............
:)

Just silver here, more common than gold. They happen to be several generations old so price isn't or rather wasn't a factor. They'll get passed on to one of the kids some day.

The SS flatware we use more often is also a set from my wife's grandmother made in America when we still made stuff here.

BTW the first spoons were wood or bone, later silver, gold, pewter, or other metals.

Maurice
 
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