[CLOSED]
- Thread starter Tbev
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I've used magnets on my tube mod to shorten the throw it works exactly the sabe, but with time your vape will begin to suffer as the coating of the magnet wears out and you'll need to replace it, It happened to me a few times, I suddenly saw that my bats where 1.4 volts but then realized that the magnet no longer was carrying the electric flow
Vape mail! Loaded the Odin with some Passioncake and fired it up. Very impressed. I have to get used to the long button throw and it's not as easy to squonk as my old standbys but seems to hit harder. Thanks Tom!
I bent the positive flat spring to shorten the throw to a couple mm. Also can use buttontop or flat top batteries. Tom, I hope this doesn't void my waranty!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
A US dime work well for 18650 mods to raise/tighten the battery. It 17.91mm x 1.35m
Cheap. Readilly avalible.
I have one in my tube mod because the fire button is a small pin and was denting my batteries.
Maybe the 24.26mm US quarter for a 26650? It's 1.75mm thick.
Cheap. Readilly avalible.
I have one in my tube mod because the fire button is a small pin and was denting my batteries.
Maybe the 24.26mm US quarter for a 26650? It's 1.75mm thick.
Y'all using some lube on the threads of those screws that you're constantly running in and out of relatively soft metals?
I would think a small nipple as part of the bar would also work well. Probably a more reliable contact point with a shorter throw as a bonus
Drill itWell I wouldn't consider 7068 relatively soft.
You'll change your mind fast.
No Rossum, I'm not. So far so good. Fingers crossed.
Tapatyped
I'd put a little anti seize on the screws for the titanium mods but the aluminum mods don't need it, I have really short screws in all mine, they only grab by like 2 440 threads and I've never had a problem.
You guys are a riot, the solution to long throw is to have a thicker bottom on your button, forcing the contact lower, towards the battery, you don't have to add anything all that does is add vdrop n ask for trouble. . The reason I don't do it is it makes an auto fire more possible.
You guys are a riot, the solution to long throw is to have a thicker bottom on your button, forcing the contact lower, towards the battery, you don't have to add anything all that does is add vdrop n ask for trouble. . The reason I don't do it is it makes an auto fire more possible.
Very interesting, so you're saying that I would find 7068 "relatively soft" to drill?
Tennalum® 7068 Ultra Strength Aluminum - Precision ArmamentPrecision Armament
Ask Tom what a drill bit will punch through easier, 7068 or most steel alloys.
I'd bet the farm on aluminum. Ease of tooling aluminum is one of its strong selling points.
He refused to do a SS mod when I asked way back when...
And as far as I can tell hasn't yet despite the relatively low cost compared to some of these other metals (the 2 aluminum alloys included).
Tapatyped
I just don't see how this can be, but I'm not a metal fabricator so I could be wrong
In fact, it’s yield strength is approaching that of pre-hardened (HRC 26-32) 41XX and 400 series stainless steels but at a third of the weight. In strength-to-weight ratio, Tennalum® 7068 out performs nearly all other engineering alloys in existence (33% better strength-to-weight performance than 7075, and 28% better performance than 6Al-4V Grade 5 Titanium).
7075 does the same vs 300 series SS yet cuts like butter in comparison. You can drill it with a good wood bit.I just don't see how this can be, but I'm not a metal fabricator so I could be wrong
In fact, it’s yield strength is approaching that of pre-hardened (HRC 26-32) 41XX and 400 series stainless steels but at a third of the weight. In strength-to-weight ratio, Tennalum® 7068 out performs nearly all other engineering alloys in existence (33% better strength-to-weight performance than 7075, and 28% better performance than 6Al-4V Grade 5 Titanium).
Tapatyped
No don't spread that siht anywhere on my mods! You don't need any lube on your threads either. If it would cause a problem I wouldn't do it that way
For the record there's just no upside to ss, it's heavy and it conducts like siht. .. the deal with making mods put of different materials is that it's not just basic drilling, to get the holes for the batt/bottle I have to use progressively bigger bits then a boarding bar to open up the hole to proper size, I don't just have a droll bit that's the size of a bottle and one for a battery, doesn't work like that. Opening a hole three inches deep is a hard thing to do, a boring bar isn't really supposed to go that deep, even on my mills, and my equipment is way overkill for making mods.
Aluminum is definately the nicest to work with, especially when your doing stupid things like using a boring bar to open a hole three inches deep. The 26650 mods are the worst, that's a 26mm+ hole vs a 18mm+ hole so the bar is pushed 7-8mm off center....it's a tough cut on equipment, when you throw different materials into the mix it just gets harder. Like titanium for example the things I get away with no problem on aluminum get exponentially tougher on tools. With titanium it's worth it, stainless just isn't.
Aluminum is definately the nicest to work with, especially when your doing stupid things like using a boring bar to open a hole three inches deep. The 26650 mods are the worst, that's a 26mm+ hole vs a 18mm+ hole so the bar is pushed 7-8mm off center....it's a tough cut on equipment, when you throw different materials into the mix it just gets harder. Like titanium for example the things I get away with no problem on aluminum get exponentially tougher on tools. With titanium it's worth it, stainless just isn't.
- Status
Similar threads
