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Tbev

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You did the right thing tho, your right you don't want to hear up that board more than necessary. I always have a hard time bc I'm always trying to get them as sorry and clean as possible, but I've never had any trouble with the dna200 like that. ...weird..

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Tbev

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I haven't done a lizard pattern in a while, I almost forgot how good it looks, if anyone wants it I'll do it for free on any new mods!

This is my new favorite mod..
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Kaezziel

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well when o took to "pro"#2 he had a adjustable temp iron and set it around 400 degree's,also used liquid flux and had no problem with it.the other "pro" didnt have that kind of iron or flux.i have no problem admitting i didnt and dont know what im doing when soldering a chip.ive done wires and watched LOADS of vids and thought for sure i could do this.i was wrong,frustrated doesnt even begin to explain how fed up i was...lol.

BUT when i couldnt get it to stick i got kinda leary with how long i should leave the iron on the board.i obviously didnt hurt it cuz it fired right up and works great.next one i wanna try it like you said..i think.put the iron on the edge and wait til the flux/soldier starts to move/melt then put the tinned wire down.thanks again for everyone helpin me out and givin me tips to keep me going.L8TR all ya'll

Yep, liquid flux is your friend... even the paste type flux is better than just relying on the flux core that is inside the solder. Definitely don't go back to the first guy....
 
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rudedog

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Still, your gun should have been plenty (if not too much)

Temperature should be based on the solder being use. Power matters to transfer the heat/maintain temperature.

And the first guy should have known better. I wouldn't go back to him.


copy that,if i cant get the next one myself ill just go back to the radio shak fella.nice soldiering job too.thanks for the help man.
 
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rudedog

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You did the right thing tho, your right you don't want to hear up that board more than necessary. I always have a hard time bc I'm always trying to get them as sorry and clean as possible, but I've never had any trouble with the dna200 like that. ...weird..

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like id said i hadnt done any board soldiering but didnt think it shoulda been near that hard to do.ill have a nicer soldiering station b4 i do the next one you can bet on that.i am diggin the dna 200 though.still fabricating a plate to put between the battery and bottle and ill be ready to fill a bottle and see how long a battery lasts at my fav operating wattage and ohm.i didnt need 200 watts but the batt lasting is what i wanted.i want a diff typ of box for my next one for sure though.dont want it to look or feel cheap though,anyone have links or idea's for squonk boxes?
 
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supertrunker

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i don't do much soldering anymore - i'm mostly just into mechs that squonk. But i do have a couple of regulated mods that i picked up on my vape journey although not much intention of making one myself.
What i did do is to buy a decent Weller station, so that if you need to solder anything - then you can. It's been surprising how much use that thing gets; from crappy wiring in tv remotes, to you name it. A decent soldering iron is well worth the $.

T
 

rudedog

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i don't do much soldering anymore - i'm mostly just into mechs that squonk. But i do have a couple of regulated mods that i picked up on my vape journey although not much intention of making one myself.
What i did do is to buy a decent Weller station, so that if you need to solder anything - then you can. It's been surprising how much use that thing gets; from crappy wiring in tv remotes, to you name it. A decent soldering iron is well worth the $.

T


im lookin around to find a decent price but a qaulity manchine.i really dont wanna pay someone else to soldier my wires every time.16$ a pop would be a tank of gas in my bike dangit!!well maybe almost a tank..lol.finished mod,im liking it so far!
 

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TheDigital99

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supertrunker

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rudedog

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@rudedog I am not sure what your budget for a soldering setup is... But here is one I use, powerful, versitale, and plenty of tips available.. Less then $100

http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M?ie=UTF8&keywords=hakko solder&qid=1461374774&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

thanks D-99 and S-Trunker
yeah i learned my lesson on the 6$ freakin soldiering iron for sure..lol.id been better not buying anything and just going to radioshack and letem do thier thing from the start.oh well it was my first mod so live and learn would be the lesson for me!the mod is kickin asz fo sho though.
 

mommabird62

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im lookin around to find a decent price but a qaulity manchine.i really dont wanna pay someone else to soldier my wires every time.16$ a pop would be a tank of gas in my bike dangit!!well maybe almost a tank..lol.finished mod,im liking it so far!

Looks great rudedog! [emoji4]
 

ST Dog

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When in doubt, go for Hakko. Used to be a big Weller fan until their tips went to crap.
OT but when did that happen? They still seamed OK when I last bought any, ~10yrs ago.

What's wrong with them?
 
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distortoblotto

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OT but when dud that happen? They still seamed OK when I last bought any, ~10yrs ago.

What's wrong with them?

About ten years ago is when Weller started to have quality control issues especially in terms of their tips which would rapidly disintegrate even with proper tinning and care. Switched to Hakko and haven't looked back.
 
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ST Dog

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About ten years ago is when Weller started to have quality control issues especially in terms of their tips which would rapidly disintegrate even with proper tinning and care.

Good to know. Weller was always the go-to standard in the 90s when I was working with an iron a lot. Even abused they held up well.
That was with WTCPT, WES51, and WESD51 stations and appropriate irons like the TC201 (and I much prefer the older units)

Sad to hear of problems, but glad it's before I spend money.

I wonder if the tip issues are across the board or is the PT and ET series is still OK. Or just use non Weller tips like Plato. In the past the difference wasn't worth going with a 3rd party, but now?
 
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AU717

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Isn't it?
I will try and break up the silence -
TMod SX350J battery connections
I am not that familiar with this chip, been using but haven't really paid much attention to it til now. Only using Kanthal with 0.4 ohm total, duals on a Stumpy. I have recently noticed sometimes the battery does not make a good connection. What maintenance is recommended? Sometimes after installing a freshly charged battery I get the diagonal line when firing at 40Watts. I can fix by adjusting the ground contact but I am curious is there any specific procedure recommended? I don't want to damage the positive contact, it looks like a send in if it needed repair.
 

TheDigital99

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Isn't it?
I will try and break up the silence -
TMod SX350J battery connections
I am not that familiar with this chip, been using but haven't really paid much attention to it til now. Only using Kanthal with 0.4 ohm total, duals on a Stumpy. I have recently noticed sometimes the battery does not make a good connection. What maintenance is recommended? Sometimes after installing a freshly charged battery I get the diagonal line when firing at 40Watts. I can fix by adjusting the ground contact but I am curious is there any specific procedure recommended? I don't want to damage the positive contact, it looks like a send in if it needed repair.
I am not going to be much help on this as I never had any issue with my Tmod Sx, never had to do any maintenance.

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