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ST Dog

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I've had no problems running my VTC5 flat tops + side up. I'm getting (very) good performance and in this configuration the battery and mod are using the same common ground so it wouldn't matter if contact did occur - they're the same.

With the switch on the pos side, no, the battery sides shorting to the mod is no issue.
But, if the battery is flipped, then that would be a problem. Dead between the pos and neg, bypassing everything else.

Tube mods though generally have the switch in the ground circuit, so then a short is the same as firing, pushing current through the coil.
 

rudedog

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I had put a red + sign and just ran a piece of clear gift wrapping tape around the + sign and when I tried to get the batt out it was super stuck...lol.so there I was bangin the thing on the palm of my hand like a pack of smokes and it hit ALOT harder than the smokes ever hit my palm ha ha.tolerances are tight in there for sure.so are any of the rewrapped batts having any probs commin out of the mod?


Have you used those wrappers CC? I rewrapped a few of mine but the wrappers I got are thicker than I would like, definition thicker than stock. I'd like to get some thinner wrappers but I don't remember where I got these. ..
 

rudedog

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Tom I found out why the button was so tuff,the 25r's I was using the pos end of the batt was so small I was havin to mash WAY down b4 it would contact it.when I flipped to the neg side the big open area was WAY easier to hit hence the throw and pressure was eased A BUNCH.now im getting along a lot better and the 25r batts get me through 5 to 6 mls before changing, but my batts are still reading 3.8 to 3.9 sometimes...amazing.

im still trying to sell a few of my "other"mods cuz I seriously would like to have one of these from new and at least clear coat the bare aluminium.i know wrong place to try and sell a diff type of mod cuz the folks here already know and love these t-mods and anything else is kinda...meh ok when these are ALLFRICKIN RIGHT!!i can definitely tell it has picked up tons of dirt "patina" but aluminium doesn't look near as good dirty as it does when its new and clean.while I never spoke bad of the t-mod but I could never justify the price,now that ive bought a "used" one for a less expensive price I definitely got the best deal ever and an atty with it to boot!so yes I will get a new one from you one day Tom and thanks for always offering to work with me to get me into one of these,ill be back---Rick,2 more mods to sell
 

rudedog

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yepp ya sure did and thanx fer that lil gem,btw sent ya a pm,dont know if ya got it


Thanks bud, and you're welcome. I said somewhere in there that flipping would help, I think.

I certainly can't stand using anything else, that's why I build the thing in the first place...it checks all the boxes!
 

rudedog

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yeah its gonna suck boxin this up and shippin it out to be redone in sniper grey,but Tom hasn't answerd my pm yet so im draggin my feet putting it in a priority mail box-Rick




You got that right! I'm thinking less and less the last few days that I even need a reg mod, lol.
 

Tbev

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Personally I think it's worthless, who burns wicks in a feeder...


Homework!

I'm still looking for a lipo.
Also looking for the fire button and the up\down buttons. I don't like the ones on a hana, you know what I mean. If anyone finds some cool ones , especially the fire button, I'd appreciate a link. Thanks..
 

Rossum

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Personally I think it's worthless, who burns wicks in a feeder...
I did it ONCE when I was still pretty new to feeders.

I would have done it a second time when I had a feeding tube that I had cut incorrectly get into the corner of of the bottle and refuse to feed, but that was in a DNA40 and the vape just got weaker and weaker.

But is protecting your wick really the primary purpose of temperature protection? One might speculate that it prevents production of aldehydes well before your wick starts to burn. I currently use mechs as well as regulated feeders and I have no strong opinion but am sure interested in seeing results from Dr. F's ongoing study of this.
 

ST Dog

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I run kanthal builds on my dna40 feeder

I thought nickel was needed for the temp control to work properly.


As for the SX350j v/s SX mini, I don't see TC as being a deal breaker either way.
That's the only difference I see in the specs.


As for the buttons, I say stick with making your own.
 
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