Sounds good. I will be in the market for another squonker. Waiting until 9/7 before I commit to anything. I have a couple things I am considering hopefully we can work something out.
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Sounds good. I will be in the market for another squonker. Waiting until 9/7 before I commit to anything. I have a couple things I am considering hopefully we can work something out.
For our Second Amendment Fans, the "Skull" Faceplate
SKULL FACEPLATE DNA75 ASSY
Still need to order plastic first run parts to check fit, finish and resolution (3D Printed).
Not much luck working in the shop the last few days - H O T - 106 today, 104 yesterday...
Ready to clear coat the Rosewood mod II Proto. Hope to take it with me on Wednesday when Jim & I will assemble the first proto - a mod I. Might get started on the second one too.
More news and pics as they happen!
Rick
SKULL FACEPLATE DNA75 ASSYStill need to order plastic first run parts to check fit, finish and resolution (3D Printed).
Not much luck working in the shop the last few days - H O T - 106 today, 104 yesterday...
Ready to clear coat the Rosewood mod II Proto. Hope to take it with me on Wednesday when Jim & I will assemble the first proto - a mod I. Might get started on the second one too.
More news and pics as they happen!
Rick
Well... Crap -
Short story is my soldering partner, Jim, hurt his hand and arm at work Tuesday. A little beat up, a little bloody... Jim is a previous SWAT & K9 cop - "retired" but works in a more covert vein of enforcement now. Talked to him today, and he seems to be "back".
So, no assembly party - I'm bummed. I'll have a second body ready for assembly when we get together on Wednesday.
I'm going to start on the third proto body in the next few days, a Mod IV 26650 Squonker. I'm ordering some 3D printed parts to test fit, and should be moving forward shortly with it.
I did a little editing to the Box Mod's page - added some renderings of the different faceplate styles available. Plus the "b" version of the Skull Faceplate:
"Come and Take Them" seems appropriate for our situation. The text around the control buttons is different too:
I'm waiting on samples now to see if the resolution is good enough to render the text around the control buttons - hope so. If not, may get it without the text and see about having a jeweler engrave it.
I have a US maker of aluminum faceplates and SS buttons, and I have a couple samples. I'll get them photographed and placed on the Mod page shortly.
Rick
Short story is my soldering partner, Jim, hurt his hand and arm at work Tuesday. A little beat up, a little bloody... Jim is a previous SWAT & K9 cop - "retired" but works in a more covert vein of enforcement now. Talked to him today, and he seems to be "back".
So, no assembly party - I'm bummed. I'll have a second body ready for assembly when we get together on Wednesday.
I'm going to start on the third proto body in the next few days, a Mod IV 26650 Squonker. I'm ordering some 3D printed parts to test fit, and should be moving forward shortly with it.
I did a little editing to the Box Mod's page - added some renderings of the different faceplate styles available. Plus the "b" version of the Skull Faceplate:
"Come and Take Them" seems appropriate for our situation. The text around the control buttons is different too:
I'm waiting on samples now to see if the resolution is good enough to render the text around the control buttons - hope so. If not, may get it without the text and see about having a jeweler engrave it.
I have a US maker of aluminum faceplates and SS buttons, and I have a couple samples. I'll get them photographed and placed on the Mod page shortly.
Rick
Ok- Having some issues with the 3D printing. Having to get second run parts on a few items - some are stainless. The orientation of the object when printed is important to how it looks when finished. I had to ask for some parts to be reoriented and printed again. Stainless steel parts take a little over two weeks.
This means I have at least a two week waiting period before I can get moving on the proto units again. Jim is still having some issue with his hand - we'll pick up again in a bit.
But, a silver lining for me - I have three new display stand orders to work on!
I'll update as needed here as new things develop-
Rick
This means I have at least a two week waiting period before I can get moving on the proto units again. Jim is still having some issue with his hand - we'll pick up again in a bit.
But, a silver lining for me - I have three new display stand orders to work on!
I'll update as needed here as new things develop-
Rick
Hey everyone,
Still waiting on the 3D Printer items. Been working on a few Display Stands in the mean time.
I have managed to put together a short animation showing the insides of the Squonk version of our Model III (26650) Side by Side:
The tankwell depth has been reduced to 1" to accomodate a 10ml bottle. The decorative air holes in the sides of the tankwell have been reconfigured as smaller to fit the shorter depth for drippers.
In the video you will first see a SS tube surrounding the bottle - this is a modified Fat Daddy's 26650 SS Battery Tube. It creates an isolated area for the 10ml oval bottle and the connections in case of a failure and/or juice spill. There is a flexable rubbery plastic bottle holder that allows proper orientation of the bottle (it can be turned 90 degrees).
The connector is a Fat Daddy's V4 (long) Bottom Feed connector designed specifically for this use. A length of 2mm tubing fits inside the center tube of the connector and extends into the bottle. A 3D Printed plastic Bottle Retainer sits around the connector tube and seals the bottle when inserted.
This is the next Prototype I will be constructing -
Jim & I will be working today to possibly finish assembling the first Proto or two.
I would love to be able to take a few good photos - we'll see!
Rick
Still waiting on the 3D Printer items. Been working on a few Display Stands in the mean time.
I have managed to put together a short animation showing the insides of the Squonk version of our Model III (26650) Side by Side:
The tankwell depth has been reduced to 1" to accomodate a 10ml bottle. The decorative air holes in the sides of the tankwell have been reconfigured as smaller to fit the shorter depth for drippers.
In the video you will first see a SS tube surrounding the bottle - this is a modified Fat Daddy's 26650 SS Battery Tube. It creates an isolated area for the 10ml oval bottle and the connections in case of a failure and/or juice spill. There is a flexable rubbery plastic bottle holder that allows proper orientation of the bottle (it can be turned 90 degrees).
The connector is a Fat Daddy's V4 (long) Bottom Feed connector designed specifically for this use. A length of 2mm tubing fits inside the center tube of the connector and extends into the bottle. A 3D Printed plastic Bottle Retainer sits around the connector tube and seals the bottle when inserted.
This is the next Prototype I will be constructing -
Jim & I will be working today to possibly finish assembling the first Proto or two.
I would love to be able to take a few good photos - we'll see!
Rick
If you use FD V4v pins everyone's gonna send em back to fix leaking
FDV doesn't understand squonking, no modder worth their salt uses them
FDV doesn't understand squonking, no modder worth their salt uses them
True dat.
A FD Classic with a modified screw or better yet one of pdib or Drunk_Js new BF purpose built connectors will be much better suited.
Varitube has the Drunk_J model
Gee, maybe it's just me, but stating an issue without offering any kind of solution, then ending the post by insulting the modder doesn't accomplish anything but insulting the modder.
I stated I chose a certain connector, you stated those who use those connectors are "not worth their salt". I see only one way to interpret that statement.
Constructive criticism and offer of a solution is fine, it improves the product (so long as I don't officially change the design - FDA crappiness)... An insult is just an insult. An "eye for an eye" statement in fact.
Quantification of statement (talk is cheap) and offer of a solution helps, rather than causing others to think you're just looking like the excretory opening at the end of the alimentary canal.
That's one in and one out, right? Even by mathematical standards I believe.
Thanks for the added post about VariTube - that's helpful
Thanks BL2, this is a much more civilized response - one that offers somewhere for me to start looking to make a change for the better, and paints you as one of the majority of vapers. We seem to be known for our desire to want to help each other out. Your post seems to identify you as one of the majority. If you ever need a Mod or a Vape Stand - PM me for a 20% discount.
Anyone that's bothered to read most of the posts, will know that while I've been a degreed Senior Mechanical Designer for over 20 years, I've been a modder for less than three months. These are my first, and only Mods I will be able to legally design.
I'd be lying if I said I didn't make uninformed decisions as a designer when I was a rookie - thank goodness I was surrounded by people that knew the new guy needs help and guidance to advance and become better. Being dumped on just serves no purpose other than to slow progress and paint the dumpee with a dark palette.
In news more worthy of time spent typing - Wednesday only produced a further definition of what I need to give Jim to accurately assemble and solder a Mod. I am preparing step by step pictorial instructions with dimensions to check (quality) for each Mod. Also prepping an assembly sequence for each device as well. When working with friends that aren't Engineers, I sometimes forget to provide the ancillary info I used to just know to provide.
Next Wednesday we have plans to use the instuctions I write to assemble the first Mod. I actually have the second (Model II) body done, and will write assembly instructions for it as well. I might be looking for a second solder/assembly person if things get going too fast, as Jim works 6 days a week and often has to travel for work. This limits his time he can dedicate.
Thanks,
Rick
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BobC can be a little blunt but for those of us that know him it's part of his charm
B2L and Bob both have very valid points...abandon the FD bf idea immediately!! They are crap and will give you nothing but headaches. As mentioned the VT510 (Drunk J)from Varitube or the one from Pdib are both excellent choices. Both of these modders have been doing it for a while now and have found out what works and what doesn't.
B2L and Bob both have very valid points...abandon the FD bf idea immediately!! They are crap and will give you nothing but headaches. As mentioned the VT510 (Drunk J)from Varitube or the one from Pdib are both excellent choices. Both of these modders have been doing it for a while now and have found out what works and what doesn't.
BobC can be a little blunt but for those of us that know him it's part of his charm
B2L and Bob both have very valid points...abandon the FD bf idea immediately!! They are crap and will give you nothing but headaches. As mentioned the VT510 (Drunk J)from Varitube or the one from Pdib are both excellent choices. Both of these modders have been doing it for a while now and have found out what works and what doesn't.
I really have no problem - I thanked BobC for the helpful post as I was writing the one that precedes it (edited it). I'm just not a lamb, if addressed I will respond. Like I said - 1:1 =even. Over. Time to check with pdib - awesome Mod by the way - or the VT510 from Varitube.
In the end it worked out - I know about FD BF stuff now, and have two good sources to look at. Now I'm glad I was purposely ambiguous with some hardware - I listed just "VariTube" when offering alternate connectors...
OK- Decided to go with the VariTube VT510 as I would think the VariTube name would be more widely recognized. Surprise - vapemail from VariTube just showed up with the connectors in it!
Unfortunately, I can't go back and edit the earlier post - not sure why editing your own post has been set to such a short time. I'm on another forum that uses the same software. Your threads and posts just remain editable...
Just for S&G's - here's a quick drawing that will be used for assembly:
It's for the standard Faceplate assembly used in most the Mods.
Hope to have some more news soon!
Rick
Unfortunately, I can't go back and edit the earlier post - not sure why editing your own post has been set to such a short time. I'm on another forum that uses the same software. Your threads and posts just remain editable...
Just for S&G's - here's a quick drawing that will be used for assembly:
It's for the standard Faceplate assembly used in most the Mods.
Hope to have some more news soon!
Rick
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Hey all,
Man, it's been a week already. My partner Jim is having some availability issues because of his job - he unexpectedly left for over a week and couldn't say anything... and is leaving this week to Tennessee for several days - that's all I know
. Sorry for this, but we're still having some issues with vendors, and I'm looking into a new vendor to Cerakote the Faceplates and other exposed metals.
I want to share some pics of a shipment of 3D Printed parts. Several came in for the Squonk proto. I'm actually waiting on a special cutter to bore the 29mm holes for the 26650 battery tubes. Whoo hoo! Mail just came, and the cutter was there! Nice...
First though, here are a couple pics of the aluminum faceplates that are available, right now in machined:
Anodized Black:
Also available in brushed finish (not shown).
The 3D Printed SS is a very unusual alloy - it's roughly 60% SS, and 40% Bronze. The model is printed as a stainless "sponge" that has about 40% air space. It is then placed in a mold and hot molten bronze is poured in. This takes up all the air space with bronze, and makes the model solid. The amount of bronze at the surface varies somewhat each time:
The prints have a sandy, pebbled surface as printed. If coated, it has a very tactile surface that feels like "smoothed sandpaper":
It can also be given a brushed finish after printing:
This is the upper plate from the pic above of the two faceplates.
Here we have the first test print of the squonk bottle topseal that is attached to the underside of the 510 connector. I placed fake "o-rings" in the model for planning purposes and forgot to turn them off before printing! Where you see what appear to be o-rings will be grooves for o-ring(s) instead:
Also received a print of the flexible bottle holder:
It's very flexible, but firm. The bottle fits tightly in it. Seems a go! Speaking of the squonk bottle, here it is:
Holds 10ml, made from very flexible LDPE.
Here's a view looking at the bottom of the Mod III Squonker. You can see the X shaped bottom support in the body. This piece is epoxied in place, and strengthens the body and accepts the bottom plate (in black).
You may notice the Bottom Plate has a hole in it for a machine screw, and the X brace does not. This way we can custom drill each hole location by putting the bottom in place temporarily - assures a perfect fit with each Mod. The Bottom Plate has a little extra material for trimming to fit up against the tubes nicely.
And here's a look at the real parts:
Above is the side of the support that faces out. Forgot to remove the hole before printing - no problem, that what metal filled epoxy is for!
Above we see a view of the bottom side; notice the reinforcing ribs and the buildup around where the support will be threaded to accept the bottom.
Here we have the bottom of the Mod.
One last thing - I got a print of the Skull Faceplate in black plastic, and the skull fire button in black SS:
Some of the details are too small to render properly - the text around the control buttons is too small and will not print correctly - it will be removed.
There is a new, higher definition plastic material that I am going to try a few sample prints to see how that looks.
Finally, I wanted to let everyone know that I was just asked to bid on a large juice bar holder for a vape shop chain. The holders are large and hold 150 taste tester tanks. The job is for a dozen stands. If I get the job, it's going to dominate my production for 6-8 weeks. I'll keep working away at the Mod's, but I seem to be getting several holder jobs lately... when it rains, it pours, LOL
Rick
Man, it's been a week already. My partner Jim is having some availability issues because of his job - he unexpectedly left for over a week and couldn't say anything... and is leaving this week to Tennessee for several days - that's all I know
. Sorry for this, but we're still having some issues with vendors, and I'm looking into a new vendor to Cerakote the Faceplates and other exposed metals.I want to share some pics of a shipment of 3D Printed parts. Several came in for the Squonk proto. I'm actually waiting on a special cutter to bore the 29mm holes for the 26650 battery tubes. Whoo hoo! Mail just came, and the cutter was there! Nice...
First though, here are a couple pics of the aluminum faceplates that are available, right now in machined:
Anodized Black:
Also available in brushed finish (not shown).
The 3D Printed SS is a very unusual alloy - it's roughly 60% SS, and 40% Bronze. The model is printed as a stainless "sponge" that has about 40% air space. It is then placed in a mold and hot molten bronze is poured in. This takes up all the air space with bronze, and makes the model solid. The amount of bronze at the surface varies somewhat each time:
The prints have a sandy, pebbled surface as printed. If coated, it has a very tactile surface that feels like "smoothed sandpaper":
It can also be given a brushed finish after printing:
This is the upper plate from the pic above of the two faceplates.
Here we have the first test print of the squonk bottle topseal that is attached to the underside of the 510 connector. I placed fake "o-rings" in the model for planning purposes and forgot to turn them off before printing! Where you see what appear to be o-rings will be grooves for o-ring(s) instead:
Also received a print of the flexible bottle holder:
It's very flexible, but firm. The bottle fits tightly in it. Seems a go! Speaking of the squonk bottle, here it is:
Holds 10ml, made from very flexible LDPE.
Here's a view looking at the bottom of the Mod III Squonker. You can see the X shaped bottom support in the body. This piece is epoxied in place, and strengthens the body and accepts the bottom plate (in black).
You may notice the Bottom Plate has a hole in it for a machine screw, and the X brace does not. This way we can custom drill each hole location by putting the bottom in place temporarily - assures a perfect fit with each Mod. The Bottom Plate has a little extra material for trimming to fit up against the tubes nicely.
And here's a look at the real parts:
Above is the side of the support that faces out. Forgot to remove the hole before printing - no problem, that what metal filled epoxy is for!
Above we see a view of the bottom side; notice the reinforcing ribs and the buildup around where the support will be threaded to accept the bottom.
Here we have the bottom of the Mod.
One last thing - I got a print of the Skull Faceplate in black plastic, and the skull fire button in black SS:
Some of the details are too small to render properly - the text around the control buttons is too small and will not print correctly - it will be removed.
There is a new, higher definition plastic material that I am going to try a few sample prints to see how that looks.
Finally, I wanted to let everyone know that I was just asked to bid on a large juice bar holder for a vape shop chain. The holders are large and hold 150 taste tester tanks. The job is for a dozen stands. If I get the job, it's going to dominate my production for 6-8 weeks. I'll keep working away at the Mod's, but I seem to be getting several holder jobs lately... when it rains, it pours, LOL
Rick
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Yes! All the devices are available as a FET protected mechanical. Options include volt meters and the v2 MODmeter as well. Also Big Al's PWM power is available. A blank faceplate can be used to mount pots, meters and the like. Also can be done without the faceplate - I think...
I often have 90% of a design in my head, and need to put it to paper mainly to figure the tiny details.
I also have boxes of sketches that can technically serve as completed designs - take that, FDA (Frickin' Dumb Aszes)
Thanks,
Rick
Hello! I found my way out from under the piles of wood chips... Sorry for the absence; wood to molest, and vendors to grind...
My last post I was excited that a drill bit for the battery tubes had arrived and I could get going again on the Squonk Proto. When peeling the plastic off the cutter, it looked horrible - discolored like it was sharpened and got way too hot, had a small chip, and not accurately made.
This is a German made bit, the manufacturer is well known for high quality. Not what I expected when paying almost $70 for a single drill bit... It's on it's way back for a replacement now.
I mentioned my partner Jim was swept away by his work to Tennessee somewhere - still gone, 10 days later. I know he doesn't have much choice when ordered somewhere. Spoke with his wife and she says he should wrap up in a few more days if "things don't get out of control". Can't wait for the story...
I'm still waiting on some new SS 3D printed Faceplates to send off for Cerakote test. Also in the same shipment is a new print of the Skull Faceplate pieces in a new, high definition black plastic.
I've really been busy in the shop with other projects. Thought I'd share the process of filling small anomalies in wood with epoxy. This is often done with figured wood and dyed stabilized wood. My instance is with some beautiful highly figured American Black Walnut. I'm saving some of this unique wood for Mod bodies in the future.
Often, the center of small knots are soft and crumbly. These need to be made solid, and have to look good when done if exposed. A dentist pick works great to tediously clean out all the loose material:
If the void goes all the way through the board, the other side gets the same treatment, then the bottom side is covered with tape to close the hole.
I gather together the clear epoxy, pigment (black this time), a small container and some toothpicks:
Mixing a small batch, I first coat the inside of the hole by dipping a toothpick and "painting" the inside of the hole. Then I carefully pour so it runs down one side of the crack. This lets it run to the bottom and fill from the bottom up.
Letting the epoxy "brim" on the crack a little bit, I use the toothpick to coax the epoxy into all the legs of the crack.
Let it dry undisturbed for at least two full days. It gets dull looking when sanding, but regains it's glossy look when finished.
Here's the finished repair. It will be sanded down flush during the assembly process. You can see a couple really small spots that also need repair.
I'm itchin' to get back on the Proto's. I'll post another update when I have some new goodies to photograph!
Rick
My last post I was excited that a drill bit for the battery tubes had arrived and I could get going again on the Squonk Proto. When peeling the plastic off the cutter, it looked horrible - discolored like it was sharpened and got way too hot, had a small chip, and not accurately made.
This is a German made bit, the manufacturer is well known for high quality. Not what I expected when paying almost $70 for a single drill bit... It's on it's way back for a replacement now.
I mentioned my partner Jim was swept away by his work to Tennessee somewhere - still gone, 10 days later. I know he doesn't have much choice when ordered somewhere. Spoke with his wife and she says he should wrap up in a few more days if "things don't get out of control". Can't wait for the story...
I'm still waiting on some new SS 3D printed Faceplates to send off for Cerakote test. Also in the same shipment is a new print of the Skull Faceplate pieces in a new, high definition black plastic.
I've really been busy in the shop with other projects. Thought I'd share the process of filling small anomalies in wood with epoxy. This is often done with figured wood and dyed stabilized wood. My instance is with some beautiful highly figured American Black Walnut. I'm saving some of this unique wood for Mod bodies in the future.
Often, the center of small knots are soft and crumbly. These need to be made solid, and have to look good when done if exposed. A dentist pick works great to tediously clean out all the loose material:
If the void goes all the way through the board, the other side gets the same treatment, then the bottom side is covered with tape to close the hole.
I gather together the clear epoxy, pigment (black this time), a small container and some toothpicks:
Mixing a small batch, I first coat the inside of the hole by dipping a toothpick and "painting" the inside of the hole. Then I carefully pour so it runs down one side of the crack. This lets it run to the bottom and fill from the bottom up.
Letting the epoxy "brim" on the crack a little bit, I use the toothpick to coax the epoxy into all the legs of the crack.
Let it dry undisturbed for at least two full days. It gets dull looking when sanding, but regains it's glossy look when finished.
Here's the finished repair. It will be sanded down flush during the assembly process. You can see a couple really small spots that also need repair.
I'm itchin' to get back on the Proto's. I'll post another update when I have some new goodies to photograph!
Rick
Hello! I found my way out from under the piles of wood chips... Sorry for the absence; wood to molest, and vendors to grind...
My last post I was excited that a drill bit for the battery tubes had arrived and I could get going again on the Squonk Proto. When peeling the plastic off the cutter, it looked horrible - discolored like it was sharpened and got way too hot, had a small chip, and not accurately made.
This is a German made bit, the manufacturer is well known for high quality. Not what I expected when paying almost $70 for a single drill bit... It's on it's way back for a replacement now.
I mentioned my partner Jim was swept away by his work to Tennessee somewhere - still gone, 10 days later. I know he doesn't have much choice when ordered somewhere. Spoke with his wife and she says he should wrap up in a few more days if "things don't get out of control". Can't wait for the story...
I'm still waiting on some new SS 3D printed Faceplates to send off for Cerakote test. Also in the same shipment is a new print of the Skull Faceplate pieces in a new, high definition black plastic.
I've really been busy in the shop with other projects. Thought I'd share the process of filling small anomalies in wood with epoxy. This is often done with figured wood and dyed stabilized wood. My instance is with some beautiful highly figured American Black Walnut. I'm saving some of this unique wood for Mod bodies in the future.
Often, the center of small knots are soft and crumbly. These need to be made solid, and have to look good when done if exposed. A dentist pick works great to tediously clean out all the loose material:
If the void goes all the way through the board, the other side gets the same treatment, then the bottom side is covered with tape to close the hole.
I gather together the clear epoxy, pigment (black this time), a small container and some toothpicks:
Mixing a small batch, I first coat the inside of the hole by dipping a toothpick and "painting" the inside of the hole. Then I carefully pour so it runs down one side of the crack. This lets it run to the bottom and fill from the bottom up.
Letting the epoxy "brim" on the crack a little bit, I use the toothpick to coax the epoxy into all the legs of the crack.
Let it dry undisturbed for at least two full days. It gets dull looking when sanding, but regains it's glossy look when finished.
Here's the finished repair. It will be sanded down flush during the assembly process. You can see a couple really small spots that also need repair.
I'm itchin' to get back on the Proto's. I'll post another update when I have some new goodies to photograph!
Rick
Hey Rick, is that the walnut for my 4box and 5Provari stick mods? The walnut is beautiful! You asked if I was on ECF, so I thought I would check it out, joined and loving it here.Diana
Good morning Diana-
Welcome to ECF, glad to see you here. Lots of great people, lots of great info.
Hey ECF!, welcome our new family member!
That wood is for twin holders; one is going to Japan and the other to the Northern Mariana Islands in the middle of the Northern Pacific. They will be 24" x 12" triple step holders. That particular Figured Walnut is about triple the cost of "normal" Walnut. And yes, quite beautiful. Walnut is my long time overall favorite wood.
I'll likely make some sandwiches with contrasting woods for Mod bodies - I'll post pics when I do.
Lucky us on the left coast, about 80 degrees today, breezy - not bad for October!
Have a great one everyone,
Rick
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