It's real spooky that you should say that Bluemagnum, as I've just sorted out some BE112's to use, they've been languishing in my atomiser stash box, in anticipation of the battery & charger delivery!
Closest battery/s to 5V vaping?
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It's real spooky that you should say that Bluemagnum, as I've just sorted out some BE112's to use, they've been languishing in my atomiser stash box, in anticipation of the battery & charger delivery!
i have the 5v batts from mako,they are weak & last about 30 minutes then get weaker.
Mine last longer than that, I use 4 in rotation whilst driving. Easy to change and charge while on the go with the GGTB. I don't find them weak at all but then I don't like 6v.
Yeah, I mean, I think its great that there is one for those of you who like it...But it just isnt for me...yet.
What I mean by yet is, I hope someone credible(AW, Tenergy,etc) comes up with like a 5v or 6v battery like a 18650 but 6volts... 1 battery, not 4 battery's stacked in a wrapper, lol. When that day comes, I will be on board. Other then that, I achieve 5volt vaping by pass-thru.
I am betting you will see more of these 5v batterys over time... so we will see...
-Tim
What I mean by yet is, I hope someone credible(AW, Tenergy,etc) comes up with like a 5v or 6v battery like a 18650 but 6volts... 1 battery, not 4 battery's stacked in a wrapper, lol. When that day comes, I will be on board. Other then that, I achieve 5volt vaping by pass-thru.
I am betting you will see more of these 5v batterys over time... so we will see...
-Tim
a 6V 18650 is only going to be two 18350 lifepo4 cells at 3.2V a piece, or two 18350 limn cells at 3.7V a piece with a diode attached (a la the blue tenergy 3V batteries) to bring the voltage down to 6V. voltage is a function of the battery chemistry, lifepo4 is 3.2, limn and regular li-ions are 3.6/ 3.7, nicd and nimh batts are 1.2V. even a 9V battery is just 8 nimh cells or 3 lifepo4 cells being run in series. you'll be multiplying voltage but dividing runtime and increasing the amperage demands. there's no way to get 5V without stacking batteries or electronically boosting the voltage of a given battery, this isn't likely to change. these four nimh batteries combined amount to 4.8V, but this is the unloaded voltage, before you put the atty on and fire it. the voltage under load is going to decrease even more and be sporadic at best if the batteries don't have the amperage required for the load. even a BE112, at 3.3ohms is going to demand 1.5 Amps to give 5V. a joye 510 or 306 will demand considerably more. needless to say these little batteries aren't providing 1.5 Amps, but whatever it is doing if it works for you then that's all that matters in the end. i was a 5V vaper, and swore by it, but 5V with a 510 atty is different from 5V with a BE112, which is different from a 5V device with tenergy lifepo4s, which is different from a 5V device with stacked CR2s, or a usb hub on your computer, or a 2Amp wall wart, etc. load impedence, amperage demand and availability, etc. all differentiate one 5V experience from the next. all of these factors are coming together to generate the power or watts, which is what you really want to match, and if a BE112 at 5V, or 7.5watts is your thing, then you can get better battery life and a fuller "5V" vaping experience by using a 1.7ohm LR BE112 and a single AW IMR16340, or the AW17670 in the GGTB, or the AW18650 in the GGTS....and no stacking required. if you want it a little warmer try a 1.5 ohm atty with the same setup, or get VHV attys like 5.2-5.6ohm and stack real IMRs. the AW IMR18350s should be out this month for the GGTS and the IMR16340s are great in the GGTB if you go that route. options galore, you gotta love vaping!
You know (re: bolded), I'd say the opposite. There's a little more punch than my passthrough. That said, they do drop off quickly. I had more than an hour of intermittent use before I noticed a decline, but I was using 3.0 - 3.2 ohm cartos. I agree it would be nice if they lasted longer, but it is nice to have a couple of 5v bats to take along to be able to vape in bliss for a bit away from the PT.
What I'm saying is this: if I had read your comment before, I would have thought I'd be disappointed in their power. Which I'm not - and I'm glad I ordered them. Just a contrasting perspective.
bugg, dont they have 3volt li-ion batterys too tho? I know ya see more 3.7volt li-ion, but they do have 3volt cr123a li-ion, along with lifepo4 chemistry 3volt.
So in that case, they did 3volt with li-ion or lifepo4, I would think they could come up with a way to do a 6volt single battery... but maybe not, I dunno... you know more then me bout it...
-Tim
So in that case, they did 3volt with li-ion or lifepo4, I would think they could come up with a way to do a 6volt single battery... but maybe not, I dunno... you know more then me bout it...
-Tim
The blue tenergy CR123A 3v Li-ion batteries are actually 3.6/3.7v resisted down within the protection circuit.
nah they're all originally 3.6 or 3.7V lithium cobalt cells, but they have a resistive diode on them (sometimes called "voltage corrected cells") that bring them down to 3V when they're activated...then there's the same li-ions like an eGo or regular joye battery that utilize pulse width modulation to activate the battery at 3.3V instead of 3.7V, but they're all basically 3.7V. and even though many lifepo4 batteries, like tenergy, will say 3 volt on the label, they are really 3.2V, all of them. now the mako battery is one example, and they can even package an 18650 in such a way that it won't look like stacked cells, but the only way it'll be 5V or 6V is if they use two or more smaller batteries to bring the intrinsic voltage of 3.2 (lifepo4) or 3.7 (limn or lico) up and then use a resistive diode to bring it down where you want it, i.e. 5V or 6V. the only thing is that even though you can effectively double the voltage, you'll be stuck with the same smaller sized battery runtime. so the "real" mAh is only going to be as high as one individual cell, about 700 for an 18350 IMR or LifePo4, and about 850-900 for an ICR...applying resistance on top of that to bring the voltage down will further decrease the runtime. the benefit of using HV attys on the other hand is that they decrease the load, lengthen the battery runtime over a standard or LR atty, and can really simulate the 5V or 6V experience in watts.
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