CLR coils longetivity.

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Limeybastard

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Mar 11, 2018
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Not sure what I'm doing wrong, I'm not getting more than a days usage on the clr without the cotton burning out. Using 70/30 juice at approx 12W .

I watched some YouTube videos and they showed that there is some juice flow control on the coil. Am I supposed to be adusting that before using it? Looks like they are set at Max flow control out of the box I think.

Thanks

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Izan

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Not sure what I'm doing wrong, I'm not getting more than a days usage on the clr without the cotton burning out. Using 70/30 juice at approx 12W .

I watched some YouTube videos and they showed that there is some juice flow control on the coil. Am I supposed to be adusting that before using it? Looks like they are set at Max flow control out of the box I think.

Thanks

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Hi,
Which CL-R coils are you using? .5/1.0/Ti?
Have you recoiled them and are having this issue or are the coils "pack" fresh?
Fresh CL-R's, the wife gets about 2 days, before I replace the wick with Rayon.
I've taken to re wicking NEW CL-Rs as a matter of course. IMO the factory wicking is horrible.

HTH
I

ETA: I have removed the bottom "ring" under the wick on a few CL-R bodies.
Since I tend to pack the rayon in the coil, the extra room might help. Anecdotally, I see little to no difference.
 
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stols001

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I have found the 1.0 clr cols to be long lasting. I think the 0.5 if you have those, must be used in TC mode? Vaping one in wattage mode could cause coil life to suck (and I mention it for safety, I think it's titanium, so you really don't want to vape that in wattage mode).

The 1.0 coils, I get at least a week often more, with a new coil. I rewick mine with rayon, so then they last much longer. They're a good coil. However, some juices just KILL coils, so I would also look at if your juice is dark, sweet, or gunky, you'd be surprised how quickly the wrong juice can kill a coil. Clear, less sweet and less gunky juices tend to produce better coil life. I'm going to just go ahead and assume you are priming them correctly (although it's not a terribly hard coil to prime, anyway).

Best of luck, more info would probably be helpful.

Anna
 
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CagedSpam

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The 1 ohm out of the box probably has some pretty tight cotton. Not difficult to hit it for too long and have the wick start scorching, rayon or rewicking will help a little bit.

I think I ended up adjusting the wattage +/- and taking shorter gentle MTL puffs. Also giving a few seconds for the juice to flow in between hits. HTH
 

Limeybastard

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Mar 11, 2018
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Ok, now I think I need to some education here if you wouldn't mind helping me.

You mentioned that the CLR 1 ohm needs to be used in temp control mode?

I always just prime them and use them in wattage mode. What am I doing wrong? Thanks.

Am I perhaps doing it all wrong thus far? Even with my other coils - aspire Atlantis 0.5 ohm, Kanger tech 0.5 ohm coil , I soley use wattage mode on all my tanks and coils.

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Limeybastard

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Mar 11, 2018
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Have you tried loosing the wick control ring on the CLR coil, unscrew it a a thread or two. They do pack the cotton into them. Easy to rewick or even recoil so you can rewick just don't pack it too tight like the factory does
I tried to get two old coils that lasted one day, I couldn't adjust that center ring at all. But I did look the cotton and coil in both were burned out and black .

By default, does one have to make an adjustment to the flown control of the CLR atomizer prior to install? They won't turn. Tried it with a new one also just now.

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Izan

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I tried to get two old coils that lasted one day, I couldn't adjust that center ring at all. But I did look the cotton and coil in both were burned out and black .

By default, does one have to make an adjustment to the flown control of the CLR atomizer prior to install? They won't turn. Tried it with a new one also just now.

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Hi,
I don't think so. The CL version is completely non adjustable so I presume the CL-R is GTG out of the box. (with the caveat that the factory cotton is VERY tightly packed and suffers from low wicking with high VG mixes.)
The CL-R Ti has a red o-ring and should be used in TC mode only.
If you have a black O-ring, at 1Ω or .5Ω, Power/Watts/bypass mode is/are correct.
CLRCLRTi.jpg
ring.jpg


Cheers
I
 
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Beamslider

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You sure they aren't CL coils. The CLR is the rebuildable one and has a juice flow ring on the bottom and the wick hole is square with small cotton tails sticking out of it. CL coils have a small round hole on the sides and no parts that can be unscrewed.

CLR is a much better coil than the CL.
 

Limeybastard

Full Member
Mar 11, 2018
30
33
USA, FL
Hi,
I don't think so. The CL version is completely non adjustable so I presume the CL-R is GTG out of the box. (with the caveat that the factory cotton is VERY tightly packed and suffers from low wicking with high VG mixes.)
The CL-R Ti has a red o-ring and should be used in TC mode only.
If you have a black O-ring, at 1Ω or .5Ω, Power/Watts/bypass mode is/are correct.
View attachment 743797 View attachment 743799

Cheers
I
Yes, thanks. It's the black banded CLR ones I have.

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