Wood CNC modmaking?

[Dampmaskin]

After experiencing how difficult it is to get hold of a nice regulated wooden squonker, I started toying with the idea of making my own. 3D printing and CNC routers have always intrigued me, but I have no hands-on experience with either. My woodworking skills are also pretty basic.

I have been reading about 3D design, CNC, routing and all that stuff for a couple of days now. Yesterday I started designing my dream box mod in FreeCAD, which seems pretty straightforward to use. Today I find myself ogling the Shapeoko 2.

In optimistic moments, I envision myself assemling the CNC router in a day, and quickly mass producing gorgeous box mods for everyone who wants one, and their grandmother. Most of the time, my common sense tells me that none of this is going to be easy in the least. Am I going to give up half way? The last thing I want is a half-assembled CNC router collecting dust in a corner in the attic.

Do anyone here have experience with CNC routers? How about running a router in an apartment block (or in a storage room in the basement) without driving the neighbors crazy?

Opinions and random thoughts on the subject are also welcome.

Edit to add:

 

[Dampmaskin]

I'm on the verge of splurging a small bucketload of money on equipment. Also, I'll have to turn my already somewhat cramped living room into a workshop. I cannot see how this could possibly go wrong...?

 

[gchirki]

The designs look great

 

[Jamandre]

Hey Dampmaskin,

How is your home shop coming along? Did you get to finish your box yet? Love to hear more of your progress.

 

[Dampmaskin]

I have decided not to realize this project until winter. I need to have an electrician install some power outlets in the storage room in the basement. I'm still saving up for the CNC router, probably a Shapeoko. At the current rate, I'll have the money ready in about ten weeks time.

Assembling the router and learning how to operate it will probably take me a week or three. Learning how to mill and finish wood, gods know how long that will take.

I'm having some trouble sourcing a squonkable 510 connector. If I can't get my hands on a decent one, I'll start out with a straight non-regulated mod instead. After that I'll probably move on to DNA30 or SX350 powered box mods.

Here is an early version of a very tiny 18490 mod. I later realized that this version is probably too thin-walled to be milled out of wood. Still learning...

 

[Jamandre]

I'm glad your still moving forward with this. That 18490 is interesting can't wait to see them all once you get going. Keep us posted my friend and keep up the great work.

 

[zoiDman]

...

Opinions and random thoughts on the subject are also welcome.

...

I have Written quite a bit of CNC Code.

Are you looking to Set-Up a CNC Router and do your Own work? Because if you are, that is a Very Expensive Undertaking. And of Course, you will have to be able to Write CNC Programs to Drive the Router around.

 

[Dampmaskin]

Thanks for the encouragement, jamandre & gchirki!

zoiDman: I have my eyes on a Shapeoko (linked in the first post). The kit I'm looking at is $1056 + the 25% Norwegian VAT, and of course shipping. The software I have been trying out, is freeware. Not as simple to use as the commercial software, but I'll figure it out. PyCAM seems to be a good tool to help me translate the 3D models into machine code (G code).

I got a switch and a 510 connection from Stealthvape earlier today. I measured the parts and made 3D models out of them.

After they had served their purpose, I threw them into this box here:

I suppose I should call it my first prototype? It vapes well, but I have to secure the battery better.

 

[zoiDman]

Thanks for the encouragement, jamandre!

zoiDman: I have my eyes on a Shapeoko (linked in the first post). The kit I'm looking at is $1056 + the 25% Norwegian VAT, and of course shipping. The software I have been trying out, is freeware. Not as simple to use as the commercial software, but I'll figure it out. PyCAM seems to be a good tool to help me translate the 3D models into machine code (G code).

I got a switch and a 510 connection from Stealthvape earlier today. I measured the parts and made 3D models out of them.

After they had served their purpose, I threw them into this box here:

I suppose I should call it my first prototype? It vapes well, but I have to secure the battery better.

The Reason I asked is that buying a Machine Tool is Cool. But you are going to need a way to Hold the Work Piece (Vise or Clamps) and then you are Going to need Cutters. So there are going to some Other Costs involved.

The link you had shows the Cutting Area is: 300mm x 300mm x 50mm. 50mm in Z is Kinda Small. And I say no specs on Accuracy.

Also, since this has an 1/8 Collect, you are going to be Kinda Limited to the Cutters / Drills that will work with it.

 

[Dampmaskin]

Yes, the 50mm Z is pretty limiting. But with the mod lying flat, I think 50mm will do. It is also possible to extend the Z axis, but that probably comes at a cost of speed and/or accuracy, because of the higher mass of the moving parts.

By collect, do you mean the "clamp" part that you attach the router bit to? (I only know the Norwegian term for this, which is "krank".)

The accuracy can be tweaked to 0.05 mm, according to some. That sounds pretty good, I think?

 

[zoiDman]

Yes, the 50mm Z is pretty limiting. But with the mod lying flat, I think 50mm will do. It is also possible to extend the Z axis, but that probably comes at a cost of speed and/or accuracy, because of the higher mass of the moving parts.

By collect, do you mean the "clamp" part that you attach the router bit to? (I only know the Norwegian term for this, which is "krank".)

The accuracy can be tweaked to 0.05 mm, according to some. That sounds pretty good, I think?

Yeah... The Collect is what Holds the Cutting tool you are going to use.

Another this, Can this Router do True 3D? Meaning, can the Z be Moved while Other Axis are Moving. You Model has some Nice Ruled Surfaces on them. Like the Battery Bay. But it also has Many Corner Radiuses. Were you Planning on Putting them on using a CNC Program?

If so, you are going to need to be able to Move Z while Another Axis Moves.

 

[Dampmaskin]

It does so called 2.5D, meaning that it cannot carve out "overhangs" (which would be full 3D as far as I understand).

Other than that my impression is that it can move all axis simultaneously. This video shows it carving out a spherical cap:

 

[zoiDman]

2.5D is Fine.

And Overhanging Element like what is seen in the Upper Right Hand Corner of this View would be Addressed when you Write the CNC Code Anyway.

I would just Think Long and Hard about Anything that had Only 50mm of Travel in Z. And used a 1/8 Collet to Hold Tools.

Are there Other CNC Routers Out there? I know that there is a Benchtop CNC Mill Market. But Machine Tools like that Usually Start at $2,500 or So.

 

[Dampmaskin]

Yes, the overhang in the model is just a result of my own laziness. There is a smaller corresponding overhang on the battery side as well.

When I used PyCAM to make the G code, PyCAM seemed to ignore the overhangs, and it smoothed it out to 2.5D without throwing an error. I was hoping that it would do that, because if it hadn't, I would have had to modify the 3D model.

The Shapeoko kit I'm wanting to buy, comes with a "Quiet Cut" spindle, which has an "industry standard ER11-A collet included". Is this good? There are also "additional collets available".

And yes, the 50mm Z axis has been bugging me too. I'm trying to reassure myself that 50mm will be enough to get me started, and hoping that extending the Z axis will be fairly easy and affordable.

 

[zoiDman]

Yes, the overhang in the model is just a result of my own laziness. There is a smaller corresponding overhang on the battery side as well.

When I used PyCAM to make the G code, PyCAM seemed to ignore the overhangs, and it smoothed it out to 2.5D without throwing an error. I was hoping that it would do that, because if it hadn't, I would have had to modify the 3D model.

The Shapeoko kit I'm wanting to buy, comes with a "Quiet Cut" spindle, which has an "industry standard ER11-A collet included". Is this good? There are also "additional collets available".

And yes, the 50mm Z axis has been bugging me too. I'm trying to reassure myself that 50mm will be enough to get me started, and hoping that extending the Z axis will be fairly easy and affordable.

Most CAD Programs won't let you Buzz thru an Overhang. And limit you to what is called "Line of Sight" cutting (which is a Good Thing 95% of the Time).

Are ER-11 Collects Good. They Can Be. ER Collects are a Very Common geometry. And have Very Good Holding Power with respect to there Diam. and Length. But Any Collet is Only as good as the Hole in the Collect. And the Precision of the Grind Angles on the Collet.

I'm just Kinda Out of my League when it comes to Micro CNC Machine World. So I'm not sure Exactly what to tell you. Because about the Smallest Vertical CNC I have Ran or have Written Code for had about 20" in Z. And the Largest you can Walk under the Z Gantry without hitting your Head.

50mm of Travel in Z is just Not Very Much.

This is More what I do. Tool and Die Work.

http://www.farmerengineering.com/ECF/Bad_Die_Cut.jpg


BTW - The Diagonal Trench Across this Injection Mold Die is what Happens when you Fat Finger an Edit on the Control. And you Rapid a 3/4" End Mill @ 4500 RMP without Clearing the Part.

Notice how I missed the Top of that 3/8 Cap Screw along the Upper Edge by about .010". LOL

 

[Dampmaskin]

An update: After talking to the chairman of the co-op where I live, I have ruled out buying a CNC router until I move somewhere else. The walls are too thin, and a router will make too much noise.

So I decided to adapt, and put the money towards an Ultimaker Original+ 3D printer instead. I'll use it to print the inside parts of mods, and will try to be creative regarding the outer housing. I have a couple of pipe tobacco tins that will be used first. I am designing a DNA-30 mod right now, which will be realized as soon as the printer arrives. No, strike that; As soon as I have assembled and calibrated the printer, and learned the basic ins and outs of it.

I expect to have something tangible and vapable before the end of the year.

Since the Wood Craft forum is hardly the appropriate place for 3D printer updates, I will post a link to a new thread as soon as I have something new to add.

At some point in the future, after I've moved house, I will probably (hopefully) get a CNC router too. At least I'll be able to 3D print upgrades for the router when the time comes. Having both a CNC router and a 3D printer will also give me more flexibility, and make it easier to mount stuff inside wooden boxes.

But for right now, it seems I'm limited to plastic, tins, laywood filament, and whatever else my imagination can come up with.

 

[asdaq]

Too bad about the router. You know, whittling is nice and quiet.


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[zoiDman]

An update: After talking to the chairman of the co-op where I live, I have ruled out buying a CNC router until I move somewhere else. The walls are too thin, and a router will make too much noise.

...

That's Kinda a Drag. But at Least you found out Before you bought the Router.

3D printers are Very Cool. Let us know when you get Set-Up and How it Works.

 

[exnihilo]

Word of advice, if you can swing it, look for a dual extruder printer. Removing supports and sanding the plastic is a PIA. Without supports, on an FDM printer, you're limited on what you can do. With a dual extruder you can load something like HIPS into one side as a support material that will simply dissolve away in a solution after printing.

Tapa-shutup

 

[Train2]

I got a switch and a 510 connection from Stealthvape earlier today. I measured the parts and made 3D models out of them.

Skimming your thread - here's a source for top notch squonk-able 510 connectors...