Coil changing ohm's? Normal?

[rcalvy1]

Hello again folks ! So I tried another build tonight on my Griffin this time 6 wraps 2.5 mm 24 gauge kanthal dual coil. So when I first dry fired the coil it was a 2.8ohm. Then shut my mod off and filled the tank turned it back on it and it was now a 3.4?! After it went back to 2.8! Weird no?? I wicked it like I seen a bunch of times and the guys at my vape shop also showed me. I slightly tuck the cotton just below the ring in the juice wells. Am I not going deep enough? Not thick enough? Also I'll take the Allen key that came with it and make sure in each four corners of the juice wells that the Allen key can easily go up and down so the juice wells don't get clogged? Maybe that's where my problem lays for leaking? Just tuck the cotton in snug not too tight and leave it as is? After a few tanks it settles down and is back to normal well with the first two tanks anyways. We will see here. Thanks again for any help or tips good night

 

[crxess]

I'd love to tell you what your doing wrong............but I do not build that way. I have been avoiding placing wick in wells on all my tanks for ages. I clip my wicks to create a fold back that completely covers the top of the channel while leaving clearance for the chimney to screw down.
99% of the time it works fantastic. 1%, the chimney may catch/move a improperly fitted wick. This usually shows as over wicking, but rarely any leaking.

As for Ohms fluctuation - That is always Contact/Read related.
Always double check coil anchor points are tight when re-wicking. Clean 510 threading whenever the tank is removed.
If it happens after a battery replacement - Remove Battery to Reset(clear) the chip and try again.

Lots of little quirks in Vaping.

 

[Ryedan]

Hello again folks ! So I tried another build tonight on my Griffin this time 6 wraps 2.5 mm 24 gauge kanthal dual coil.

When I first read what you built, "6 wraps 2.5 mm 24 gauge kanthal dual coil", I thought it would meter around 0.2-0.3 ohms because I'm pretty familiar with that build

So when I first dry fired the coil it was a 2.8ohm.

Something's wrong if it metered 2.8 ohms. Here is the build modeled in the Steam Engine coil wrapping calculator. To get around 6 wraps you would have a resistance of around 0.25 ohms like I thought.

Your resistance is off by a factor of around 10. If it were me, I would find out where that error comes from before proceeding

 

[crxess]

When I first read what you built, "6 wraps 2.5 mm 24 gauge kanthal dual coil", I thought it would meter around 0.2-0.3 ohms because I'm pretty familiar with that build



Something's wrong if it metered 2.8 ohms. Here is the build modeled in the Steam Engine coil wrapping calculator. To get around 6 wraps you would have a resistance of around 0.25 ohms like I thought.

Your resistance is off by a factor of around 10. If it were me, I would find out where that error comes from before proceeding

Didn't even pay attention to the Build data, just the Shifting variance.
Definitely something reading WAY wrong.

 

[7sixtwo]

When I first read what you built, "6 wraps 2.5 mm 24 gauge kanthal dual coil", I thought it would meter around 0.2-0.3 ohms because I'm pretty familiar with that build



Something's wrong if it metered 2.8 ohms. Here is the build modeled in the Steam Engine coil wrapping calculator. To get around 6 wraps you would have a resistance of around 0.25 ohms like I thought.

Your resistance is off by a factor of around 10. If it were me, I would find out where that error comes from before proceeding

I'm pretty sure he just put the decimal point in the wrong place.

@rcalvy1: wicking has nothing to do with a shifting atty resistance. Many of the less expensive Chinese mods are not models of accuracy in that dept, but shifting from ~0.28-0.34 ohm is significant. As crxess said, check your contact points. Make sure the coil leads are well anchored and nothing's touching anything it shouldn't be.

Also, get an RDA, (like a Tobeco Velocity), and learn to build on that. You won't have to worry so much about wicking, (it literally could not be easier), so you can just concentrate on the coils. When you get it right, it'll also taste better than the Griffin.

 

[rcalvy1]

Hi guys thanks so much for the replies!! @crxess anyways you could post a pic of the wicking? As far as the resistance goes it's stayed at 0.28 I'm using my cuboid here. I filled the tank up this morning and it's not leaking. I washed the tank before doing my build maybe an oring swelled up under hot water? Second night in a row I let it sit and it's perfect in the morning! Strange!! I did go back and tighten my post after I saw the different readings on my mod. Is it safe to use ? It seems to be staying at .28 now and hasn't not shifted at all. I was using the Allen key that came with the Griffin tank and it's pretty crappy I will have to buy another Allen key. Thanks again guys!!

 

[rcalvy1]

I'm pretty sure he just put the decimal point in the wrong place.

@rcalvy1: wicking has nothing to do with a shifting atty resistance. Many of the less expensive Chinese mods are not models of accuracy in that dept, but shifting from ~0.28-0.34 ohm is significant. As crxess said, check your contact points. Make sure the coil leads are well anchored and nothing's touching anything it shouldn't be.

Also, get an RDA, (like a Tobeco Velocity), and learn to build on that. You won't have to worry so much about wicking, (it literally could not be easier), so you can just concentrate on the coils. When you get it right, it'll also taste better than the Griffin.

@7sixtwo we have a Vap convention in town this weekend I might just have to get a dripper lol. But I'm scared once I start dripping my other tanks won't get any use lol. You can't really drip at work or in the car can you? What about rdta do they give better flavor then the regular RTA's?

 

[rcalvy1]

When I first read what you built, "6 wraps 2.5 mm 24 gauge kanthal dual coil", I thought it would meter around 0.2-0.3 ohms because I'm pretty familiar with that build



Something's wrong if it metered 2.8 ohms. Here is the build modeled in the Steam Engine coil wrapping calculator. To get around 6 wraps you would have a resistance of around 0.25 ohms like I thought.

Your resistance is off by a factor of around 10. If it were me, I would find out where that error comes from before proceeding

I have tightened the legs into the post pretty good now. Still at .28 but it's vaping fine. Also it's hard to count the wraps on these little coils what do you guys do? Any tips or tricks?

 

[opticruby]

I have tightened the legs into the post pretty good now. Still at .28 but it's vaping fine. Also it's hard to count the wraps on these little coils what do you guys do? Any tips or tricks?

I usually run a small flathead screwdriver over the coil and count the number of bumps, when I carnt be bothered to find my glasses that is.

 

[7sixtwo]

@7sixtwo we have a Vap convention in town this weekend I might just have to get a dripper lol. But I'm scared once I start dripping my other tanks won't get any use lol. You can't really drip at work or in the car can you? What about rdta do they give better flavor then the regular RTA's?

Nah, you'll still use your tanks. Most people drip at home, where it's convenient. I'd recommend a Tobeco Velocity, (cheap and work great), and maybe an Aromamizer V2 if/when you want a RDTA.

 

[7sixtwo]

I have tightened the legs into the post pretty good now. Still at .28 but it's vaping fine. Also it's hard to count the wraps on these little coils what do you guys do? Any tips or tricks?

It can be hard to count them on a contact coil, so it's best done as you wrap it. If you need to verify, just look very closely and use the tip of your tweezers or something to help count if necessary.

 

[Frenchfry1942]

Another thought is the accuracy of the resistance measuring tool. I build on an ohm reader and then I check it again with a "good" mod. I don't get to concerned as long as it is within .1 ohm. If the ohms change while vaping, I check the contacts and the COIL. If the coil is getting dirty, etc. then it will affect the ohms.

Checking the coil, I and others, use a magnifying glass or jeweler's headset. For me, I use my reading glasses and a 10x power headset. I suspect most people could use something just to make it easier. I, also, have a handheld magnifying glass, but it requires a hand to hold it.

 

[rcalvy1]

Nah, you'll still use your tanks. Most people drip at home, where it's convenient. I'd recommend a Tobeco Velocity, (cheap and work great), and maybe an Aromamizer V2 if/when you want a RDTA.

@7sixtwo do RDTA's really have that much of a Better taste then rebuildable tanks? I'll definitely check them both out

 

[rcalvy1]

Another thought is the accuracy of the resistance measuring tool. I build on an ohm reader and then I check it again with a "good" mod. I don't get to concerned as long as it is within .1 ohm. If the ohms change while vaping, I check the contacts and the COIL. If the coil is getting dirty, etc. then it will affect the ohms.

Checking the coil, I and others, use a magnifying glass or jeweler's headset. For me, I use my reading glasses and a 10x power headset. I suspect most people could use something just to make it easier. I, also, have a handheld magnifying glass, but it requires a hand to hold it.

So is there any danger in running a coil that's not the ohm you thought it would be? Since I'm new to building I don't determine the ohm before I just make sure both coils have the same amount of wraps and see what it is when I place it on my cuboid. Good call with the magnifying glass

 

[Frenchfry1942]

Well, I don't get as worried because I am not pushing all the power I can into that coil. When I notice it, I have other mods that can check the ohms. That's how I found out that ohm readers aren't perfect. Anyway, I dry burn the coil, I have little tiny wire brushes like bottle style, or I can just change the coil.

I just tinker around with it until I feel comfortable as to why. Also, The lowest resistance coil I go is maybe a .6 and that is because it is a dual coil and I can't get more wraps in the chamber.

 

[7sixtwo]

So is there any danger in running a coil that's not the ohm you thought it would be? Since I'm new to building I don't determine the ohm before I just make sure both coils have the same amount of wraps and see what it is when I place it on my cuboid. Good call with the magnifying glass

There's no danger when using a regulated mod and a tiny bit of common sense. The Cuboid won't fire anything, (in power mode), below 0.1 ohm or above 3.5 ohm iirc, and you get a reading before you press the fire button anyway. I do the same thing; wrap the coils to the point I think they look good, then place on my RX200 to check the reading, before turning it back off and tweaking, spacing, etc if necessary. It just so happens that they always end up around 0.4 ohm. I don't have a separate 521 tab or ohm reader, because I don't find them necessary, and don't want to spend $ on things like that atm.

Now if you were building for a mechanical mod, you'd definitely need another means of testing resistance, (like a 521 tab or other ohm reader), before putting it on. Mechs fire anything, and because of that, you want a very accurate reading to ensure your ohm's law calculations are correct, and that your build is safe for the battery you're using.

 

[7sixtwo]

@7sixtwo do RDTA's really have that much of a Better taste then rebuildable tanks? I'll definitely check them both out

It's subjective, but most people think so.

 

[crxess]

Hi guys thanks so much for the replies!! @crxess anyways you could post a pic of the wicking? As far as the resistance goes it's stayed at 0.28 I'm using my cuboid here. I filled the tank up this morning and it's not leaking. I washed the tank before doing my build maybe an oring swelled up under hot water? Second night in a row I let it sit and it's perfect in the morning! Strange!! I did go back and tighten my post after I saw the different readings on my mod. Is it safe to use ? It seems to be staying at .28 now and hasn't not shifted at all. I was using the Allen key that came with the Griffin tank and it's pretty crappy I will have to buy another Allen key. Thanks again guys!!

Small allen keys and tiny hex heads are a tricky pain in the ..... Have to get the build tight, but not strip the Hex or Key in the process.(not easy)

Sounds like you hit the wicking Right. Now to keep repeating that build!
I will attempt to remember to Snap a pic on my next re-wick.(possibly an Orchid dual coil)
Remember, anything that keeps liquid from flooding past, but does not impede saturation is a Win.
I see no need to press an allen key into the channels when a tiny screwdriver would tell you is it is packed to tight. A larger key could compact wicking and give a false sense of fit. Also note - FEEL comes with practice.
My hands literally were my second set of eyes for years do to working in confined spaces.

 

[Bunnykiller]

DC voltage thru a coil produces magnetic flux, this in turn results in a magnetic field that can stress the connections at the attachment points... tighten the screws a bit after installing and using a new coil... if you continue to use the coil in an unadjusted manner, the magnetic flux inconsistancies can cause subtle shifts in the electron orbits of the wire and eventually cause a black hole to develope and then instead of your batteries exploding, a reversal will occur and your mod will be sucked into oblivion along with your lips and hand....

 

[rcalvy1]

There's no danger when using a regulated mod and a tiny bit of common sense. The Cuboid won't fire anything, (in power mode), below 0.1 ohm or above 3.5 ohm iirc, and you get a reading before you press the fire button anyway. I do the same thing; wrap the coils to the point I think they look good, then place on my RX200 to check the reading, before turning it back off and tweaking, spacing, etc if necessary. It just so happens that they always end up around 0.4 ohm. I don't have a separate 521 tab or ohm reader, because I don't find them necessary, and don't want to spend $ on things like that atm.

Now if you were building for a mechanical mod, you'd definitely need another means of testing resistance, (like a 521 tab or other ohm reader), before putting it on. Mechs fire anything, and because of that, you want a very accurate reading to ensure your ohm's law calculations are correct, and that your build is safe for the battery you're using.

@7sixtwo cool thanks man went to the vape shop and the guy showed me how he wicks just slightly stuffing to cotton in the top of the juice channels ever so lightly working like a dream now!!!