im using a caravela mech mod with a tug boat rda with 32gauge kanthal a1 and have it at about 4 wraps and am getting coil heating problems it take like 3-4 whole second before it starts to get red also im using an lg 35a 18650, any ideas? its all new out of box so no connections are dirty i am waiting for cash flow to buy an ohm reader and maybe some bigger gauge wire could these be my problems? also it is slow with out wick/juice any help would be greatly appreciated and i havent found any info on this build in my search attempts
Coil heating problem
- Thread starter Danksterfour20
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You REALLY need an ohm reader!!
But you probably do want thicker wire...4 wraps of 32 g, you still might be at something like 1.5 ohms. Depends on the overall length including legs and diameter...and if you go less than 4 wraps, you'll have no surface area to heat the juice...
But 3 or 4 seconds is STILL longer than I'd expect, so really - you want to check the atty's resistance before firing on a mech...
Here's a good calculator to get a PLAN for your desired resistance...
But you probably do want thicker wire...4 wraps of 32 g, you still might be at something like 1.5 ohms. Depends on the overall length including legs and diameter...and if you go less than 4 wraps, you'll have no surface area to heat the juice...
But 3 or 4 seconds is STILL longer than I'd expect, so really - you want to check the atty's resistance before firing on a mech...
Here's a good calculator to get a PLAN for your desired resistance...
i have a multimeter the ones with the neg and pos prongs could i use that to tes the attys res? if so how would i go about it? test the posts or the connection on bottom? also which would be negative copper or silver (on the atty)?
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Yeah - that'll work...!
Red lead to the center post, black lead to the 510 bottom pin.
I think - I usually only use my multimeter to check batteries...lol.
If you google it though, you'll find confirmation...videos even.
Red lead to the center post, black lead to the 510 bottom pin.
I think - I usually only use my multimeter to check batteries...lol.
If you google it though, you'll find confirmation...videos even.
Yeah, that works fine. There'll be an ohm setting (will probably have the ohm symbol + 200) and to test your resistance you'll want to touch the coil and the main post. If it's a cheap multimeter, you'll want to touch the leads and note any inherent resistance so you can subtract it from the reading you get on your coils.
This should help:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g
I applaud building coils, but you really, really need to have an idea of what you're doing. Highly suggest you read through the information here, too:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/general-vaping-discussion/521076-one-stop-reference-shop-new-experienced-vapers.html
Edit: Thanks for making my post redudant by not being so wordy Susan-S!
Moved to New Members Forum
Simple Solutions is for those new to vaping using basic starter kits.
Simple Solutions is for those new to vaping using basic starter kits.
a small Phillips head screw driver that's about 4 1/2 mm across when held up to a ruler
on another note my build is .8 and i have the lg he2s and it still takes a while to heat up do you think my battery is a fake? i did buy it on amazon after all
otherwise Ive been reading a shizz ton trying to figure this out, i have some kanthal a1 22gauge on the way to see if it will make it better i have twisted about 6 strands of 32 gauge to get the ohms down n it has helped a bit but still having the problems, i am going to purchase a pair of vtc5's as soon as i find some legit ones from a seller that takes pay pal since i have so much extra cash on there, its soo tiring trying to figure this out
I use this calculator to make a plan and predict the results (ohm, heat capacity, heat flux on variety watts) . Very accurate. Thanks to the developers
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