Coil keeps burning a few seconds after I stop pressing my fire button

[djlimeberry]

To begin I'd like to clarify that I am a veteran builder at this point. I've been vaping for almost 3 years and I've been building for 2 and a half years.
I say this just to point out that I know what I'm doing with a dripper so I don't need any type of rundown on mech safety or proper builds etc.
All that being said thank you for reading this.
So I bought a derringer clone yesterday from my local shop. I'm running a simple single coil (my mod for this rda is the badass jellyfish from lotus) using 6 wraps of 24 gauge kanthal a-1. There is no short in my coil and I feel like I've wicked it properly, although I am trying Japanese cotton for the first time in place of regular organic cotton balls. When I hit it the coil continues to burn even after I stop pressing the fire button, what are some things that can cause this? During the whole time I've been building this has only happened on one other rda (nimbus clone) and I was getting dry hits when it did this. Interestingly enough I'm not getting dry hits on this derringer. The flavor isn't as good as it should be from my juice though.

 

[Bunnykiller]

it takes time for 24 ga and lower to cool down.... kinda like an electric stove... you turn it off but it stays hot for some time

 

[Cacique]

I've been using 24g wire only for a short while not and it does the same thing, not sure if you're used 24g before. What I do is I let go of the button half a second before I finish taking my hit, which helps cool them down a bit faster and I take in most of the vapor it keeps releasing.

 

[yuseffuhler]

Second Cacique here. If you want to keep from getting your coils gunked, it helps to draw for a short while after you let off the fire button.

 

[djlimeberry]

it takes time for 24 ga and lower to cool down.... kinda like an electric stove... you turn it off but it stays hot for some time

That's a good point, I use 24 gauge very frequently and it doesn't always do this though. So I did some digging and found out that Kanthal is a brand name much like Kleenex is to tissues (i.e. all Kleenex are tissues but not all tissues are Kleenex), and that only one company makes actual "Kanthal" wire. The rest of the companies are making basically the same thing only usually with a slightly different chemical makeup. So to test my hypothesis I went and bought another shops brand of 24 gauge wire, made the same single coil I had in my derringer before and tried it then. The result was no burn after I stopped pressing the fire button. This means that it's a certain mix of metals that will cause this problem. I tried to look up what was all in the first brand I used, but couldn't find the exact chemical makeup. So I can't say what metal or mix of metals it is that will cause this, but if anyone does get this problem go out and get a different brand of wire. Thanks to all who replied!
P.s. I don't remember what article I read that had this information in it, but it's worth googling to read about "Kanthal" and the companies that clone it. How funny is it that even the wire we use to build our coils is probably a clone nowadays.

 

[TaketheRedPill]

great detective work, djlimeberry ! Who'da thunk it was the wire itself? I think you should make another post to get to 5 and then recap this for the good folks over on the Rebuildable Atomizers, Wick and Wire thread. Might save someone a big headache! Wick and Wire | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[Matty316]

Could be one is kanthal A and one is kanthal A1 they have slightly different properties.

Kanthal A-1(wire) Temp C/F 1400 /(2550) Resistivity at 20ºC (68ºF) 1.45 (872)
Kanthal A(wire) Temp C/F 1350 /(2460) Resistivity at 20ºC (68ºF) 1.39 (836)

Kanthal A has slightly less aluminium in it i think. I don't know but this may make it retain heat longer.