coils and resistance vs heatup time

[tannerrex]

But with a regulated device, displayed wattage is the only thing you can control that affects amperage (battery life); the resistance is irrelevant and that's why I said it's a red herring. Your battery voltage is what it is; if your dna is hitting the coil with 5 volts, or 3 volts, that's probably not the actual voltage of the battery.

Regulated mods use chips to adjust voltage between certain limits, which is why batteries are wired in series to give you a higher potential voltage. When you change the wattage on the device it changes the voltage (in turn changing the current draw) as the coil is the only constant. Power (watts) is equal to I (current) multiplied by E (voltage) P=IxE And since we can't change the current with substitute I with E/R (R being the resistance). Now Power is equal to The voltage squared divided by the resistance P=E^2/R.

Edit: spelling

 

[readeuler]

Regulated mods use chips to adjust voltage between certain limits, which is why batteries are wired in series to give you a higher potential voltage. When you change the wattage on the device it changes the voltage (in turn changing the current draw) as the coil is the only constant. Power (watts) is equal to I (current) multiplied by E (voltage) P=IxE And since we can't change the current with substitute I with E/R (R being the resistance). Now Power is equal to The voltage squared divided by the resistance P=E^2/R.

Edit: spelling

What you said is definitely true if you're thinking about the coil side of an APV. But using Ohm's Law on the coil tells us relatively little about battery drain; the current going through the coils is not the current coming from the battery. So, that's the idea that the resistance is really a red herring if you're thinking about battery life on a regulated device.

I was responding to the OP's question about 1+ ohm coils and whether they gave improved battery life. The simplest formula for current usage on a regulated device is (Displayed Wattage)/(Battery Voltage); it's only wattage that's (basically) the same on both sides of the regulator.

So we could go into Ohm's Law on the coil side, but it's not worth the trouble, IMO, if we're just talking about battery drain.

 

[JeremyR]

Op, your using double the amount of wire so it will take twice as much power to heat as fast as one.

People say low ohms heats faster which isn't really a fact. As described above.. When you look at the watts they are running, sure a 24g build will heat fast at 90w.. But not at 40w. The more mass you have the more power it takes to heat it fast. I can get instant 2 second clouds from a 2.5 ohm build at 15w with 32g if i want to. Heats very fast. In actuality higher gauge heats faster because there is less resistance wire to bring up to temp..

So its a balance of wire gauge and number of wraps or ohms which in turn results in the mass of wire you need to heat... Do you have enough power to heat that much resistance wire quickly?

If your running a 30w mod I would not go below 28g if you want really fast heat up around 1-1.3ohms . But it all depends on how much wire mass there is to heat. I even regularly use 32g parallel because it heats even faster than 28 at the same ohms at 24w.