coils for a warmer vape!?!?
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Drop .1 ohms each build Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators till you get the warmth you seek.
On my Kayfun .7 or lower is too warm and I love it in the 1.1 too 1.4 range depending on the juice.
Drop .1 ohms each build Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators till you get the warmth you seek.
On my Kayfun .7 or lower is too warm and I love it in the 1.1 too 1.4 range depending on the juice.
Welcome to ECF, mike...
Due to the current output limit of 3 amps, the MVP2 has a lower resistance parity limit of 1.2Ω.
Per Steam Engine, if you build a single 30 gauge coil at 7/6 wraps on a 1/16" mandrel (with short, 2.5mm or less leg lengths), resistance will be 1.2Ω+/-. At the MVP peak of 11 watts, heat flux will be a warm 325 mW/mm²+/-.
If the leg lengths are more than 2.5mm, a 6/5 wrap will provide 1.2Ω as well.
Due to the current output limit of 3 amps, the MVP2 has a lower resistance parity limit of 1.2Ω.
Per Steam Engine, if you build a single 30 gauge coil at 7/6 wraps on a 1/16" mandrel (with short, 2.5mm or less leg lengths), resistance will be 1.2Ω+/-. At the MVP peak of 11 watts, heat flux will be a warm 325 mW/mm²+/-.
If the leg lengths are more than 2.5mm, a 6/5 wrap will provide 1.2Ω as well.
The term "warmer vape" etc. is confusing. There's coil temperature and then there's vapor output temp. Coil temp can be increased by cranking in more watts (various methods). Warmer output can be increased by atomizer design, shorter drip tip, vaping longer until the unit is hot. To get warmer vapor without higher coil temp requires a larger coil and more power to match.
Thanks, im looking for a more vapor output temp. I did what state o flux said to do and it helped a little but not what I want. I currently have a MVP 2 and it only supplies 11 watts, so i would need more power than that?? right? to get a warmer vapor??
More current output... or thinner wire (within the practical limits of a useable surface area) to increase the heat flux value.
Go down to 1 ohm. I believe your MVP can actually fire 0.8 ohm so there's that. Also you can score more wraps with less resistance on that 30ga wire if you twist it.
IDK what atty you're using but if it's a clearo the top coils are obviously warmer because the coil in right under the drip tip.
And go Cocks!
IDK what atty you're using but if it's a clearo the top coils are obviously warmer because the coil in right under the drip tip.
And go Cocks!
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Heat flux is what I'm calling coil temperature. If that goes up and area stays the same, yes more total power so more heat comes out but the flavor will be different -- which may or may not be a bad thing. But if the question is to keep the same flavor except for more vapor and power, the coil needs be larger/more area. If the amount of vapor and everything needs be the same, then the only way is to make more of the heat actually get to the mouth through the design.
Everyone is right about everything as usual, but I'd ask you to keep these three things in mind:
1. Going below ~1.5ohm on an MVP is really hard on the battery; you can fire at 1.2 and other stuff, but it'll strain itself and you will shorten it's life dramatically.
2. There's other variables you can play with besides your coils. e.g., a shorter drip-tip, or an RDA with a smaller chamber, or less airflow.
3. South Carolina's state dance is the "shag."
hih
1. Going below ~1.5ohm on an MVP is really hard on the battery; you can fire at 1.2 and other stuff, but it'll strain itself and you will shorten it's life dramatically.
2. There's other variables you can play with besides your coils. e.g., a shorter drip-tip, or an RDA with a smaller chamber, or less airflow.
3. South Carolina's state dance is the "shag."
hih
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Some MPV2s will "fire" down to 0.8Ω or so, but as the output limit is rated at 3 amps/11 watts... the Ohm's law formula - (watts ÷ amps²) = Ω - will indicate that going below 1.2Ω has no functional benefit, as the parity output to support a lower resistance simply isn't available.
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