compact high voltage mod

[punchy187]

I want to make a compact high voltage mod what do I need and how do I do it. Links to awesome tutorials are fine as long as they give detailed information for dummies.

#1 High voltage without stacking batteries? How?
#2 batteries that are safe to stack? Any?
#3 Mosfets? How do they work? How do you use them?
(I just looked up mosfets on the Fry's Electronics website and it pulled up a bunch of images of schematics...wth?)
#4 What are the safest batteries for high voltage?
#5 RCR123 3 Volt Batteries? Good? Bad? Safe to Stack?
#6 Resisters and tiny switches? Mosfets are resisters? How do they work?
#7 5 Volt vaping safer than 7.4 Volt without stacking batteries?
#8 4.7 volt batteries? Where?
#9 Variable voltage? WTF is that? Safe?

Most of all I want a safe high voltage tiny ... compact as hell mod. If anyone can elaborate on the finer details about how this can be done I would be very appreciative. Thanks.

P.S. I want to make a high voltage mod just to try it out to see if I like it. I prefer my dual coil low resistance mega cartomizer which to my knowledge is the opposite of high voltage but anyway what exactly is low resistance and since I prefer that would I like a high voltage mod?

 

[CraigHB]

#1 Use a boost regulator. You can buy production mods with them or build one yourself with a couple that are available. At this time, the LavaTube is probably the least expensive, most popular production mod that utilizes a booster.

#2 Protected cells are safe to stack. The protection works regardless of how they are connected. The IMR batts are not as safe since they are not protected. Though, that may be arguable since the chemistry is "safer" and less prone to volatility. The regular protected ICR batts are more volatile, but have protection. The IMR batts are less volatile, but don't have protection.

The ones to watch out for are the LiFePO4 batts. They've probably been responsible for more injuries to vapers than any other type of Li-Ion cell. Even though they use a "safer" chemistry, they are not protected and are typically not rated for atomizer currents. People have discovered that the hard way.

#3 A MOSFET is a type of transistor specifically designed for use as a solid state switch. You slave them to a small mechanical switch. It allows you to use little currents to control big currents. In other words, it allows you to use a small mechanical switch that would not be able to handle atomizer power by itself. To understand how they work requires some knowledge about electricity and electronics, not something easy to explain in a paragraph. There's lots of easy to understand information available on the net if you want to study up on it.

#4 The safest Li-Ion out there in my opinion is a protected Panasonic NCR18650A which is a high quality cell designed for performance and safety. These are re-branded and sold by AW as their 3100mAh 18650. The Panasonic CGR18650CH is also a good one for stuff that needs a cell capable of higher output. I believe AW re-brands that one as the IMR 18650 2000mAh, but I'm not positive on that. The NCR18650A and CGR18650CH direct from Panasonic are available from a few retailers out there, though not easy to find and not protected. You want to make sure you get the NCR18650A with protection. The CGR18650CH is normally used without protection, but with some caveats. The AW cells are readily available from e-cig shops.

#5 Unsafe, forget it.

#6 Again, not something easy to explain in a paragraph. I would suggest you start here

#7 Any time you want more than 3.7V, you have to stack batteries or use a boost regulator. Boost regulators are handy in that they only require a single cell for a wide range of voltages, but they have some big disadvantages.

#8 You can run 4 NiMH cells in series to get 4.8V since each cell is 1.2V. This is a very safe configuration since NiMH cells do not have volatility issues like Li-Ion cells. There is a trade-off. Li-Ion cells perform better. They run longer and occupy less space. The NiMH cells are also not as good at delivering power so you don't actually get 4.8V at the atomizer. It's somewhat less.

#9 Variable voltage is simply the application of a regulator that provides a range of output voltages. It's quite safe when powered by two protected cells in series. The same can be achieved with a boost regulator using a single cell, but you need a high power cell and those are typically not protected. Production booster mods like the LavaTube incorporate the required protection within their electronics and the same can be done for home-grown booster mods.

 

[woodsy]

From the questions you have asked the first thing I would do is dive headfirst into some basic electrical theory. What you are proposing sound a little outside your skill set and honestly without the knowledge you will most likely end up either hurting yourself or just getting annoyed to the point of not finishing the project. just look over what various components do and how they interact for a start and then look at designing your own. Once done properly, it will all be worth it.

 

[mwa102464]

2 words = Provari Mini = Win

 

[punchy187]

#1 Use a boost regulator. You can buy production mods with them or build one yourself with a couple that are available. At this time, the LavaTube is probably the least expensive, most popular production mod that utilizes a booster.

#2 Protected cells are safe to stack. The protection works regardless of how they are connected. The IMR batts are not as safe since they are not protected. Though, that may be arguable since the chemistry is "safer" and less prone to volatility. The regular protected ICR batts are more volatile, but have protection. The IMR batts are less volatile, but don't have protection.

The ones to watch out for are the LiFePO4 batts. They've probably been responsible for more injuries to vapers than any other type of Li-Ion cell. Even though they use a "safer" chemistry, they are not protected and are typically not rated for atomizer currents. People have discovered that the hard way.

#3 A MOSFET is a type of transistor specifically designed for use as a solid state switch. You slave them to a small mechanical switch. It allows you to use little currents to control big currents. In other words, it allows you to use a small mechanical switch that would not be able to handle atomizer power by itself. To understand how they work requires some knowledge about electricity and electronics, not something easy to explain in a paragraph. There's lots of easy to understand information available on the net if you want to study up on it.

#4 The safest Li-Ion out there in my opinion is a protected Panasonic NCR18650A which is a high quality cell designed for performance and safety. These are re-branded and sold by AW as their 3100mAh 18650. The Panasonic CGR18650CH is also a good one for stuff that needs a cell capable of higher output. I believe AW re-brands that one as the IMR 18650 2000mAh, but I'm not positive on that. The NCR18650A and CGR18650CH direct from Panasonic are available from a few retailers out there, though not easy to find and not protected. You want to make sure you get the NCR18650A with protection. The CGR18650CH is normally used without protection, but with some caveats. The AW cells are readily available from e-cig shops.

#5 Unsafe, forget it.

#6 Again, not something easy to explain in a paragraph. I would suggest you start here

#7 Any time you want more than 3.7V, you have to stack batteries or use a boost regulator. Boost regulators are handy in that they only require a single cell for a wide range of voltages, but they have some big disadvantages.

#8 You can run 4 NiMH cells in series to get 4.8V since each cell is 1.2V. This is a very safe configuration since NiMH cells do not have volatility issues like Li-Ion cells. There is a trade-off. Li-Ion cells perform better. They run longer and occupy less space. The NiMH cells are also not as good at delivering power so you don't actually get 4.8V at the atomizer. It's somewhat less.

#9 Variable voltage is simply the application of a regulator that provides a range of output voltages. It's quite safe when powered by two protected cells in series. The same can be achieved with a boost regulator using a single cell, but you need a high power cell and those are typically not protected. Production booster mods like the LavaTube incorporate the required protection within their electronics and the same can be done for home-grown booster mods.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I was just about to go to the store and but the RCR123 3 volts batteries and know I changed my mind. I think the best route I need to take is using a boost regulator with a single cell protected battery. Doing that I should be able to achieve around 5 volts using a battery like the AW 3100mAh 18650 with protection or the AW IMR 18650 2000mAh though they may be hard to find. The 4 NiHM cells in series you are taking about I presume are AAA or AA batteries? I don't think they would give me the power I want and too many batteries to use/recharge etc. Before realizing how dangerous Li-ion batteries can be especially stacking them I had already purchased 4 Tenergy 3.7 volt mAh 1400 and 1 Tenergy 3.7 volt mAh 2600 but they are so fricken big it is really difficult working with them. Would it be safe to use one of those batteries with a boost regulator? How many volts would I get by doing that? Are they protected? Here is the actual specs for the batteries I have. They seem extremely potentant which make me think they are rather dangerous. The maximum discharge rate etc are sky high and I don't know if anyone else uses these or not. I had these connected in series for a short time and checked the amperage and the meter was going bizerk showing fluctuating readings around 14.00 - 17.00 amps. Is that way more than necessary? Max amp rating per battery is 30 amps. I uploaded a pic of the specs. The model 30057 in red I have 4 of these and the one that is being compared to it model 30050 in blue I have 1 of.

 

[rubrduk]

try madvapes to start, you can buy a 5v kit. use there instructions to assemble and enjoy. That will give you alot of what you need to get started and you will have a cheap compact 5v mod that works well

 

[tokarev]

Build a Puck. I built a half size Puck on one 4xAAA battery box and it's working great. You can get battery boxes and connectors at many places. My box came from Radio Shack, as did the switch and LED. Instead of using the RS power connector, I salvaged a 901 connector from an old battery. You can get new battery connectors, as well as any other parts you need from MadVapes. Or, as suggested, just buy a 5V kit from them. The thing I like about the Puck is that it provides 5V (well, 4.8V, but close enough) without needing a voltage regulator. It uses NiMH batteries that can be purchased anywhere.

The PUCK e-Cig Mod - An e-Cigarette Box Mod You Can Build Cheap and Easy and Uses Standard Rechargable Batteries

 

[slimest]

2 moderators: seems that the first 2 posts are very informative for every modder - smart questions and smart answers. What about to stick the topic? Looks like a prepared FAQ.

 

[Rocketman]

I think the OP is chasing HV because he heard it was 'better'.
From the questions asked it is obvious he is NOT ready to build.
Sorry if this sounds like stepping on the OP's toes, but the steps to building a mod are:
Learn,
Learn a little more,
Build something simple.

Making a safe mod takes finesse, some degree of knowledge of safe/unsafe practices, troubleshooting and construction skills.
At least know the function of the components. How to incorporate and use them within design limits.

and sorry slimEst,
this would make a sticky "how to blow your face off and not know what hit you"

Granted the other replies took a lot more thought than my reply. Good info.
But OP, spend a little time researching, and when you can answer all of your original questions, you will be ready to start building.

OK, you guys can start fussing at me now

 

[slimest]

and sorry slimist,

Sorry, I'm slimest, not slimist.

 

[Rocketman]

Sorry, I'm slimest, not slimist.

I don't smell so well


Edit: SPELL


Could have been MUCH WORSE if I had "AUTO CORRECT" enabled
My apologies for the error.

 

[slimest]

Rocketman, why do you distorts my nickname? I am not slimEst. I am slimest. No need to explain, just call me as I exist here. My nickname is slimest.

 

[Rocketman]

Just high lighting my correction. I will be more aware of correct spelling of your nickname from now on.