Bad- so you've transitioned more to the kayfun being what you want now?
Yes I have. I've been noted to be a cartotank vaper on this forum for nearly 2 years. The KFL+ is like a cartotank on steroids.
Compact, On the Go Device?
- Thread starter joecarroll42
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Yes I have. I've been noted to be a cartotank vaper on this forum for nearly 2 years. The KFL+ is like a cartotank on steroids.
Reo Grand
(Reo SL pictured)
- bullet proof 18650 mechanical (18490 for mini)
- 6ml of on-demand juice (3ml for mini)
- real rda dripper on a mech, without having to drip
- just about as pocket/travel friendly as it gets (smaller than a pack of cigarettes)
You can make an RDA produce vapor like a Kayfun, not vice versa. I'd be hard pressed to find many vapers to flat out claim that anything vapes better than an RDA set up to their preferred style of vaping. Puffing, mouth-to-lung, direct lung, cooler, warmer, throat ripping, cloud chasing, flavor chasing? RDAs are extremely versatile like that; they are what you make of them.
The Reo gives you this experience in a stupid simple, bullet proof, leak-free, reliable, portable, and self contained package. I can't think of anything more perfect to grab and go with, and it vapes with no compromises what-so-ever to boot; a real mech, with a real RDA, and no bottles and dripping necessary. No gurgling. No dry hits. You're in complete control.
For "on the go", this is a no-brainer setup to consider, especially being open to mechanical suggestions. And of all mechanicals out there, this one is a proven classic, and among the OG mechanicals that gives all other mechanicals their "vapocalypse proof" reputation in the first place.
I picked up my first Reo over eight months ago, and haven't really found anything to give it a run for it's money since then. I still try out, truly appreciate, and keep up with new products and the such; but yeah, the Reo clearly remains the reigning champ in my eyes. All the other stuff is superfluous to my all day, every day setup that is a locked and loaded Reo Grand.
That's just been my experience though, take it for what it is. Lots of great stuff out there to consider, this is what works for me.
Check out the Reo sub-forum, and investigate further if you're intrigued at all.
Reos Mods
Cheers
(Reo SL pictured)
- bullet proof 18650 mechanical (18490 for mini)
- 6ml of on-demand juice (3ml for mini)
- real rda dripper on a mech, without having to drip
- just about as pocket/travel friendly as it gets (smaller than a pack of cigarettes)
You can make an RDA produce vapor like a Kayfun, not vice versa. I'd be hard pressed to find many vapers to flat out claim that anything vapes better than an RDA set up to their preferred style of vaping. Puffing, mouth-to-lung, direct lung, cooler, warmer, throat ripping, cloud chasing, flavor chasing? RDAs are extremely versatile like that; they are what you make of them.
The Reo gives you this experience in a stupid simple, bullet proof, leak-free, reliable, portable, and self contained package. I can't think of anything more perfect to grab and go with, and it vapes with no compromises what-so-ever to boot; a real mech, with a real RDA, and no bottles and dripping necessary. No gurgling. No dry hits. You're in complete control.
For "on the go", this is a no-brainer setup to consider, especially being open to mechanical suggestions. And of all mechanicals out there, this one is a proven classic, and among the OG mechanicals that gives all other mechanicals their "vapocalypse proof" reputation in the first place.
I picked up my first Reo over eight months ago, and haven't really found anything to give it a run for it's money since then. I still try out, truly appreciate, and keep up with new products and the such; but yeah, the Reo clearly remains the reigning champ in my eyes. All the other stuff is superfluous to my all day, every day setup that is a locked and loaded Reo Grand.
That's just been my experience though, take it for what it is. Lots of great stuff out there to consider, this is what works for me.
Check out the Reo sub-forum, and investigate further if you're intrigued at all.
Reos Mods
Cheers
I don't use atomizers that could leak like that...but no, I've never had liquid get into the mod..edit--i wouldn't use one that could potentially leak all over my battery while in use either..
Bad- so you've transitioned more to the kayfun being what you want now?
Leak was probably a poor choice of words. Do you ever get condensation though?
i get condensation within my top cap, but nowhere near the 510 connection. no vapor/liquid should get under the base of an atomizer
Just a quick note. Generally when folks say mechanical mod they mean a mod that is just battery, switch, 510 connector and battery container. In other words, no wires. I believe that the gripper has wires. Still a nice choice for an inexpensive mod that's small. It just isn't a mechanical mod.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
My compact setup is either my Tree of Life (Infinite clone) with an EHPro Kayfun Lite + v2 (also a clone) with a nano drop kit and an SS2 top cap or a Brass Stingray (Hcigar) with the same Kayfun setup.
You can get that setup for about $85-$100 total. About $35-$40 for the KFL+ v2, about $35-$40 for the Tree of Life or Stingray, about $15 for a nano drop kit. Add another $30 if you're interested in the replacement top cap. It's perfectly safe to buy from eBay so long as you use a vendor that has a high feedback rating.
I'd absolutely recommend the Infinite Tree of Life rather than the Hcigar. I have compared the original (Element Mods) with the Infinite clone side by side, and there is no difference as far as I could tell. Everything was exactly the same except perhaps the original MIGHT have had a slightly more robust spring. Everything else was identical. I can't vouch for the Hcigar Tree of Life like that (though they have a track record of being consistently one of the better clone makers.
I would stay away from the Black Copper Stingray clones. I have an Infinite and the switch is janky. It works, but there are tolerance issues. Some have reported that a thorough cleaning of the switch fixed their problems. It didn't for me. I have read similar issues with the Hcigar Black Copper Stingray. I wouldn't trust a clone from anyone else. I'd definitely stick with the time tested Brass Stingray (which I have an love). It hits hard and is very reasonably priced.
If I'm looking to keep it small, I use one of these two setups.
You can get that setup for about $85-$100 total. About $35-$40 for the KFL+ v2, about $35-$40 for the Tree of Life or Stingray, about $15 for a nano drop kit. Add another $30 if you're interested in the replacement top cap. It's perfectly safe to buy from eBay so long as you use a vendor that has a high feedback rating.
I'd absolutely recommend the Infinite Tree of Life rather than the Hcigar. I have compared the original (Element Mods) with the Infinite clone side by side, and there is no difference as far as I could tell. Everything was exactly the same except perhaps the original MIGHT have had a slightly more robust spring. Everything else was identical. I can't vouch for the Hcigar Tree of Life like that (though they have a track record of being consistently one of the better clone makers.
I would stay away from the Black Copper Stingray clones. I have an Infinite and the switch is janky. It works, but there are tolerance issues. Some have reported that a thorough cleaning of the switch fixed their problems. It didn't for me. I have read similar issues with the Hcigar Black Copper Stingray. I wouldn't trust a clone from anyone else. I'd definitely stick with the time tested Brass Stingray (which I have an love). It hits hard and is very reasonably priced.
If I'm looking to keep it small, I use one of these two setups.
Last edited:
I share the obsession with small form factors but also need at least half way decent battery life -- hate carrying / changing / charging extra batteries. After looking around a *lot*, I actually found a dirt cheap mechanical that performs quite well and is really, really short. Have a look at the kylin mod -- this is essentially a cheap version of the pisces mod. It can accommodate either 18500s or 18650s, has a floating silver plated pin and a reverse threaded locking ring. I did replace the spring to firm up the throw a bit, but otherwise, this has been a fantastic mod. It is just barely bigger than the battery you put in it, and in 18500 mode, it is the same size as most 18350 mechs. Can be had for 35 bucks. Also, if you are OK with vaping at 1.3 ohms and above, for your batteries, have a look at the orbtronic sanyo 18500s. Though they cannot handle high amps, they pack a full 1700 mah. I am a heavy vaper and simply carry two kylins with me when I leave the house -- lasts me all day and into the next with these 18500s. But again, be *careful* with these batteries -- not IMR and not protected. You might want to add a vape safe fuse and always make sure your resistance remains at or above 1.3 ohms. (OK, truth be told, I sometimes run them as low as 1 ohm and have had no problems, but know the risks you are taking!) And as for the kylin, when I get home, I throw in a sony 18650 and rock out with any sub-ohm topper of my choosing!
Here's the kylin:
HCigar Kylin (Pisces-T Clone) Mod $34.99 - VividSmoke.com
and the orbtronics sanyo:
18500 Sanyo 1700mAh Li-ion Battery 3.7V
As for regulated mods, should probably at least mention the vapor shark DNA 30. Good little bit of kit -- great battery life if you keep it at 11 watts or below -- and this thing is *tiny*. But the downsides here are 1) expensive, 2) usb charging so no swapping batteries mid day and 3) Like all regulated devices, there's more to fail... I fully expect my kylin mods will still be going 5 years from now -- my vaporshark -- maybe 1/2 that if I am lucky. Here's that:
Vapor Shark DNA Buy Now!
Good luck!
Steve.
Here's the kylin:
HCigar Kylin (Pisces-T Clone) Mod $34.99 - VividSmoke.com
and the orbtronics sanyo:
18500 Sanyo 1700mAh Li-ion Battery 3.7V
As for regulated mods, should probably at least mention the vapor shark DNA 30. Good little bit of kit -- great battery life if you keep it at 11 watts or below -- and this thing is *tiny*. But the downsides here are 1) expensive, 2) usb charging so no swapping batteries mid day and 3) Like all regulated devices, there's more to fail... I fully expect my kylin mods will still be going 5 years from now -- my vaporshark -- maybe 1/2 that if I am lucky. Here's that:
Vapor Shark DNA Buy Now!
Good luck!
Steve.
I'm usually out and about with my nemmy clone in 18350 mode and a russian on top. The russian is a bit bigger than I'd prefer. I'm toying with the idea of getting an ibtanked halfling in the 22mm width and a shorty drip tip.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Thanks for all the suggestions! You guys have been a lot of help. I still have no idea what direction I'm gonna go, but at least now I have some options. My biggest question I have about mechanicals is what makes one different from the other? Does one come straight out of the box set up to perfection, while another needs a little fine tuning? Whats the deal?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mechanical mods are basically just a tube, battery, 510 connector and switch. The designs, engravings and the like, or sculpting or machining of little doodads, those make differences in appearance but don't effect usability.
The way the top cap deals with different length 510 connector length is one of the design choices that make a difference. Some don't adjust at all. So an atomizer can stick up because it won't screw down far enough or fail to fire because it can't make contact. Then there's a center pin that adjusts, screws in or out to deal with length. Some have multiple pin lengths. Better is a screw within a screw center pin. The outer part screws to adjust for atomizer fit, the inner portion to deal with battery length. Then there's a floating version, the pin just slides in and out. Lastly sprung center pin, often causes a voltage drop.
The switch is another differentiating feature. Can be flush or stick out. A few have the button on the side at either top or bottom. For bottom button there can be a lock ring to keep it from firing when stood up or the button gets pressed while carrying. The lock ring can have normal threads or be reverse threaded. Some adjust for battery size.
If you're getting your first, look around, decide on a model you like then search here for threads about it. There should be enough info to let you decide if that model is for you.
If you decide on a clone, when searching make note of the manufacturer, clones vary highly among different manufacturers and who makes it is important in trying to get what you expect. Even with that caution realize one of the ways they manage to produce them cheaply is to pretty much completely skip any sort of quality control. So even if you get a clone from a manufacturer that has generally good reviews, you may get a dud. It happens, just get another remembering there's a reason they're so cheap.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
The way the top cap deals with different length 510 connector length is one of the design choices that make a difference. Some don't adjust at all. So an atomizer can stick up because it won't screw down far enough or fail to fire because it can't make contact. Then there's a center pin that adjusts, screws in or out to deal with length. Some have multiple pin lengths. Better is a screw within a screw center pin. The outer part screws to adjust for atomizer fit, the inner portion to deal with battery length. Then there's a floating version, the pin just slides in and out. Lastly sprung center pin, often causes a voltage drop.
The switch is another differentiating feature. Can be flush or stick out. A few have the button on the side at either top or bottom. For bottom button there can be a lock ring to keep it from firing when stood up or the button gets pressed while carrying. The lock ring can have normal threads or be reverse threaded. Some adjust for battery size.
If you're getting your first, look around, decide on a model you like then search here for threads about it. There should be enough info to let you decide if that model is for you.
If you decide on a clone, when searching make note of the manufacturer, clones vary highly among different manufacturers and who makes it is important in trying to get what you expect. Even with that caution realize one of the ways they manage to produce them cheaply is to pretty much completely skip any sort of quality control. So even if you get a clone from a manufacturer that has generally good reviews, you may get a dud. It happens, just get another remembering there's a reason they're so cheap.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
Get a nano M-tank for that Russian, and a shorter drip tip, and you will have succeeded in making your Russian significantly smaller. I recommend the m-tank for the Russian because I have never seen a drop kit with matte rings, and polished or brushed stainless would just look weird.
Bsoplinger -- that was a really nicely composed response and spot on! Of the firing pin options, I've had some experiences with all of them (save the spring loaded variety) and I have to say I think a free floating pin is my favorite. Of course, this means the adjustment that allows for flush mounting of the atty and getting rid of battery rattle has to happen somewhere else in the mod, so usually you find these pins on telescoping mods. This is one of the things I love about the Kylin -- you just screw your atty down flush, throw in the battery, and then snug the bottom cap down -- voila.
As to the question about how much tinkering mech mods require out of the box, it doesn't exactly track 1:1 with whether you buy a clone or a high end original -- at least in my own experience. For example, I had to tinker with my GP paps quite a bit before I got the bottom switch to work correctly. As for my cheapo little kylin, it worked fine out of the box -- I just didn't personally like the action on the button -- throwing an extra spring in took all of a few seconds and a screwdriver. And of course, be it a clone or an original, do plan on taking a few minutes to give it a proper cleaning upon receipt --- there is almost always some residue of machine oil that you want to scrub clean for better conductivity, and this is particularly important for mods with a lot of threading in the body tubes. In my experience, cleaning that oil away makes for a *noticeably* better vape.
So my advice is, whether you are buying a cheapo or a high end mechanical, make sure you purchase from a vendor with good reviews. A good vendor will stand by you if what you end up with doesnt work properly.
A few more thoughts for the OP Though arguable to be sure, the mechanical route is *maybe* best for people who like to tinker. Though it is true that you can add a kick to some mechs (not all, and not the kylin, btw), the vape you get from a mech only really starts to shine at about 1.5 ohms and below. What that means is that many of the plug and play atomizers and cartos that you just buy off the shelf and use as is wont necessarily give you a great vape on a straight mech since many of those toppers are produced at 2 ohms or above. With a regulated mod, you can always just bump up the voltage or wattage until you are content. With mechs, the joy-joy is instead obtained ***by the process*** of setting your coil to your exact liking, since the volts are basically out of your control. This extra layer of things to learn and do kept me away from mechs for a long while. Now I find it meditative to do my coils Ive even gotten to where I set them up to be just one tic too harsh for me on a fully charged battery, such that when the battery falls down to where it spends most of its output cycle (~3.8 volts), Im getting my *perfect* vape (and btw, this is my answer to people who complain about battery drop off with mechs set up properly, you can get a great vape through the lions share of the batterys cycle.) Anyhow, it took me many tries to find the right combination of coil, wick and airflow for each of my toppers. And the surprising part was how much fun that process was.
Bottom line? In my opinion, if you want the shortest, easiest path to an off-the-shelf vape that is darn satisfying, stay with a regulated mod. And if you are up for a quest that is at times a bit frustrating and at times deeply rewarding as a hobby, go mech. While your mileage may vary, I can tell you that with several good mechs, and rdas, kayfuns and spheroids to build for them, my regulated mods see very little use anymore and I am in vaping nirvana in no small part because I love the *process* as much as the outcome!
As to the question about how much tinkering mech mods require out of the box, it doesn't exactly track 1:1 with whether you buy a clone or a high end original -- at least in my own experience. For example, I had to tinker with my GP paps quite a bit before I got the bottom switch to work correctly. As for my cheapo little kylin, it worked fine out of the box -- I just didn't personally like the action on the button -- throwing an extra spring in took all of a few seconds and a screwdriver. And of course, be it a clone or an original, do plan on taking a few minutes to give it a proper cleaning upon receipt --- there is almost always some residue of machine oil that you want to scrub clean for better conductivity, and this is particularly important for mods with a lot of threading in the body tubes. In my experience, cleaning that oil away makes for a *noticeably* better vape.
So my advice is, whether you are buying a cheapo or a high end mechanical, make sure you purchase from a vendor with good reviews. A good vendor will stand by you if what you end up with doesnt work properly.
A few more thoughts for the OP Though arguable to be sure, the mechanical route is *maybe* best for people who like to tinker. Though it is true that you can add a kick to some mechs (not all, and not the kylin, btw), the vape you get from a mech only really starts to shine at about 1.5 ohms and below. What that means is that many of the plug and play atomizers and cartos that you just buy off the shelf and use as is wont necessarily give you a great vape on a straight mech since many of those toppers are produced at 2 ohms or above. With a regulated mod, you can always just bump up the voltage or wattage until you are content. With mechs, the joy-joy is instead obtained ***by the process*** of setting your coil to your exact liking, since the volts are basically out of your control. This extra layer of things to learn and do kept me away from mechs for a long while. Now I find it meditative to do my coils Ive even gotten to where I set them up to be just one tic too harsh for me on a fully charged battery, such that when the battery falls down to where it spends most of its output cycle (~3.8 volts), Im getting my *perfect* vape (and btw, this is my answer to people who complain about battery drop off with mechs set up properly, you can get a great vape through the lions share of the batterys cycle.) Anyhow, it took me many tries to find the right combination of coil, wick and airflow for each of my toppers. And the surprising part was how much fun that process was.
Bottom line? In my opinion, if you want the shortest, easiest path to an off-the-shelf vape that is darn satisfying, stay with a regulated mod. And if you are up for a quest that is at times a bit frustrating and at times deeply rewarding as a hobby, go mech. While your mileage may vary, I can tell you that with several good mechs, and rdas, kayfuns and spheroids to build for them, my regulated mods see very little use anymore and I am in vaping nirvana in no small part because I love the *process* as much as the outcome!
I enjoy my mechs.
But nothing is quite as satisfying as getting the exact same vape from puff 1 until the battery is dead and it will no longer fire and being able to adjust my vape on the fly.
my nemesis clone with hybrid adapter is just 54mm long in 350 that's almost uncomfortably small
my nemesis clone with hybrid adapter is just 54mm long in 350 that's almost uncomfortably small
Very nice. Is that a wrap of some kind?
SS Chi-You in 350 mode with AIOS hybrid atty and clear tank kit.
Old school and lovin it!
My "traveler" is a Great Lakes Vapor Super Mini with a low resistance cartomizer. It doesn't hold a lot of juice, so I have to carry a bottle of juice and freshen it up often, but it works great for driving to and from work. Nice and small, great button and form factor. Uses protected AW 16340 batteries. I guess the only negative might be the price at just over 100 bucks. Regardless, I love it.
I'm wondering the same thing. Everywhere I go I'm seeing this picture.
These are the only mods I run for out and about. And at home too
Fully mech, will survive conditions that would destroy other mods, made in the USA and a HUGE community here on ECF of the most helpful, friendly people you'll likely ever meet. The maker of the mod is also very active here on the forum.
Bottom fed mods. REO grand to be exact. Here's a vid I made that breaks it all down including where to get and what you'll need to get with it.
http://youtu.be/sNfog0ysbW0
Fully mech, will survive conditions that would destroy other mods, made in the USA and a HUGE community here on ECF of the most helpful, friendly people you'll likely ever meet. The maker of the mod is also very active here on the forum.
Bottom fed mods. REO grand to be exact. Here's a vid I made that breaks it all down including where to get and what you'll need to get with it.
http://youtu.be/sNfog0ysbW0
Last edited:
- Status
