I found this quite helpful when first introduced to e-cigs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etsALtL71Es
Confused!
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I found this quite helpful when first introduced to e-cigs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etsALtL71Es
So is it like others with wicks where if you burn it once it'll ruin it forever?
The replacement atomizer heads come with new wicks right?
Are there any designs that dont use wicks or fillers? I was under the impression there was something that uses neither wicks or filler, just a tank and a coil.
No offense but this is exactly what I'm talking about with all the lingo...lol..your message is not very concise.
I started with the "iSmoka" kit iGo kits then moved over to a drip tip, which is a HUGE difference, the volume of vapor and the flavor is hugely increased, however the drip system is a bit on the messy side and you are constantly fiddling with it. I have tried carto systems (carto with a tank) and both top and bottom coil designs for clearomisers, however I recently picked up the Magoo.
Magoo-S Kits
This is kind of the best of both worlds, it is a bit of a chore to set it up (like the drip system you have to hand assemble the wick/element into it, however if you find a good shop (I go to Cool Vape in San Jose California, the guys there are amazing, and I can't recommend a shop more strongly) they generally will help you with builds etc.
The Magoo gives you the volume and flavor of a drip system, matched with the ease of use of a tank system. I have the original iGo Ismoka kit iGo kits whic was a great place to start, however the tanks tend to be a little leak prone (not leak to the outside, but internally you end up with a un-vaped juice on the inside that you can potentially suck into your mouth, not pleaseant) Moved on to a k100 Mechanical mod with a drip tip http://www................../Empire-Style-K100-Telescope_p_176.html tried various tank systems both top and bottom feed (best one I found was the kangertech Kanger Protank clearomizer – KangerTech ) and ended up with the magoo.
I also ended up purchasing a VMM (variable voltage mod) which makes the carto style systems much more pleasant. I went with the pro vari ProVari Mini Variable Voltage Ecig: Best Variable Voltage E Cig Available! I had more money to play with than most though, so the investment to get what I wanted didn't stun me.
Long story short, I have found the following bits of data hold true.
1) Any tank system using removable elements will work best if it is a screw-in instead of a press-in element. The press-ins tend to be messier and require more fiddling.
2) Cartomizer systems are well worth it, better volume of vapor, however they require a VMM base to get the best experience, which is a bit on the pricey side.
3) Mechanical mods/Magoo tip seems to be kind of the pinnacle for price/performance that I have found so far, being that my local shop will work with me on keeping my magoo on-track I have it easier, not sure I would be this happy with it if I had to do all the maintenance solo.
The upside in my eyes is that in a 3 month period, I went from a 1.5 pack/day habit to 6mg vape juice (started at 18) and am looking at having a clear road to no longer smoking/vaping anything in less than a year without going nuts from withdrawals.
My family is happier now that dad doesn't sneak off to toke every half hour, I am happier than my body feels better and I figure the money spent is well spent!
--L
Magoo-S Kits
This is kind of the best of both worlds, it is a bit of a chore to set it up (like the drip system you have to hand assemble the wick/element into it, however if you find a good shop (I go to Cool Vape in San Jose California, the guys there are amazing, and I can't recommend a shop more strongly) they generally will help you with builds etc.
The Magoo gives you the volume and flavor of a drip system, matched with the ease of use of a tank system. I have the original iGo Ismoka kit iGo kits whic was a great place to start, however the tanks tend to be a little leak prone (not leak to the outside, but internally you end up with a un-vaped juice on the inside that you can potentially suck into your mouth, not pleaseant) Moved on to a k100 Mechanical mod with a drip tip http://www................../Empire-Style-K100-Telescope_p_176.html tried various tank systems both top and bottom feed (best one I found was the kangertech Kanger Protank clearomizer – KangerTech ) and ended up with the magoo.
I also ended up purchasing a VMM (variable voltage mod) which makes the carto style systems much more pleasant. I went with the pro vari ProVari Mini Variable Voltage Ecig: Best Variable Voltage E Cig Available! I had more money to play with than most though, so the investment to get what I wanted didn't stun me.
Long story short, I have found the following bits of data hold true.
1) Any tank system using removable elements will work best if it is a screw-in instead of a press-in element. The press-ins tend to be messier and require more fiddling.
2) Cartomizer systems are well worth it, better volume of vapor, however they require a VMM base to get the best experience, which is a bit on the pricey side.
3) Mechanical mods/Magoo tip seems to be kind of the pinnacle for price/performance that I have found so far, being that my local shop will work with me on keeping my magoo on-track I have it easier, not sure I would be this happy with it if I had to do all the maintenance solo.
The upside in my eyes is that in a 3 month period, I went from a 1.5 pack/day habit to 6mg vape juice (started at 18) and am looking at having a clear road to no longer smoking/vaping anything in less than a year without going nuts from withdrawals.
My family is happier now that dad doesn't sneak off to toke every half hour, I am happier than my body feels better and I figure the money spent is well spent!
--L
Not sure what you mean with your first question. Every attomizer coil will eventually burn out, from use.
Second question: Yes. Bear in mind that the wick on a Protank II coil is tiny, just about 1/4 to 3/8" of material, if my guestimate is correct. You can see for yourself by checking a youtube on replacing the wicks. Or hunt around these forums, where I've seen pictures.
I don't know the answer to your final question. The purpose of the wick, as I understand it, is to bring liquid in contact with the metal coil that heats the juice.
There is a gentleman with a blog here that puts it all in simple English, replete with pictures:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-carto-tank-what-guide-juice-attachments.html
Can someone post a link for the replacement atomizer heads for the Kanger ProTank II? Someone said they were like 5 bucks for a box of 6 or so but all I can find is this which lists them at a buck 75 a piece: Atomizer Head for Kanger Protank & EVOD
I tried yo use actual product names... like RSST. You can find instructional videos on youtube etc. If you know whet to looking for by name. I am not sure if there is a school for vaping, but youtube can help with coils, wicks, and such.
Another option is a trip a physical ecig store so you can actually see various items and have them explained. Maybe someone could write a "Gaping for Dummies" book. They have them for every other topic.
Hey Rocko. If you 'burn' a protank wick, you can usually rescue it. The silica material that the wicks are made of doesn't really burn or melt or anything at the temperatures PVs get to. The juice can caramelize and leave a burnt tasting residue on the coil and wicks. Sometimes a really good rinse can take care of that. Another option is to do a dry burn. With a dry burn, you partially disassemble the coil head, to take the flavor wicks off, then put the coil assembly (minus the top stem and flavor wicks) back on the battery and pulse the battery 5-6 times until you can see the coils glowing red. Once the coils are all glowing evenly you know you have burnt off all the caramelized stuff stuck to the coils. Give the head a good rinse and reassemble it. Prime the wicks with your juice, and you should get a good clean taste. There are quite a few you tube videos for cleaning protank or evod coils that go through this in more detail. Here is an example: Vapor Lady Lounge Kanger eVod, Protank, MT3, Cleaning and Burning The Atomizer for Better Vaping - YouTube
What I do with my protank heads is this... I rinse it under running water for a few minutes. I take the top stem and the flavor wicks off. I put the coil assembly back on the battery and pulse until the coils glow. I then rinse it by shaking it in a bottle of water a few times. Blot it dry. If the flavor wicks are too far gone, I replace them with new 1 mm silica wick (I get from lightening vapes on ebay). I reassemble the head, then put it back in the tank. I take a few puffs without activating the coils to get juice into the wicks. Then I vape. If the wicks are still wet with water, it takes a few puffs for vapor to start. I get more than a month out of a coil using this method. Honestly, it took longer to type out how to do it than it does to actually do. I do this every few days or so, it depends on how much gunk a particular juice produces (some clog a coil much faster than others).
The replacement heads come with new wicks.
I guess just a plain atomizer for dripping could be said to not have wicks or filler. I think they do still have some sort of wick, though it may be stainless mesh rather than silica. These require you to have a bottle of juice with you for dripping, or a bottom feeder type mod (has a bottle of juice attached underneath the atomizer and you squeeze, or squonk, the bottle to feed juice into the atomizer. See REO mods.)
Watch that video on the protank and you will understand a little better about how they work. A video will explain way better than words. Also, as someone suggested, a trip to a brick and mortar store could be very useful for you.
Me...after about 2 months...have bought (and have in "my rotation") 3 different clearomizers, 3 different batteries, a V2 "system", an eRoll "system" and White Cloud Flings.
What I like best (based on Taste/Throat Hit/Vapor)...my Kanger T3S with my Innokin iTaste VV V3.0.
Watched that vid--yes very helpful in understanding the configuration of those types of tanks. But now I'm concerned about the whole dry burn process. Firstly, is burning that gunk off the coil not creating smoke? That's what she says in the vid and the whole point of vaping is to avoid smoke...or when it's full will the fluid keep everything moist enough to prevent any burning? It seems as though even too high of a voltage would get that thing hot enough to where it's actually producing some smoke...it also seems that it would actually have to be burning to alter the taste. Also, as for that main wick that is non-removable, is that not burning when you do a dry burn? I guess maybe that's the point of it being made out of silica? That it has a very high melting point? Just all seems risky, I'd rather inhale cigarette smoke than plastic smoke, I'm just sayin
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I guess it makes some smoke as the caramelized material is burned off (when you are cleaning the coil by burning), but it's very little, and you are not vaping it. The silica does not burn. You can hold a piece of silica wick in a propane torch and it doesn't burn. If it got hot enough it would melt. You'd probably have to put it in a kiln to do that though. I rinse my coils off several times after I dry burn them, to get remaining carbon residue off.
Oh, and when the wick is saturated it doesn't get as hot. So you are not getting anything combusted when you are vaping. If you get a dry wick, you will get a burned taste. It's definitely noticeable and fixable. There should be no plastic burning. The coil is kanthal wire, and the wick is silica. On a protank, the tank is made of metal and glass. Evods do have a plastic tank (polycarbonate, I think) but if that is burning, you've definitely got big problems.
If the idea of dry burning makes you nervous, you can just buy new coils though.
Oh, and when the wick is saturated it doesn't get as hot. So you are not getting anything combusted when you are vaping. If you get a dry wick, you will get a burned taste. It's definitely noticeable and fixable. There should be no plastic burning. The coil is kanthal wire, and the wick is silica. On a protank, the tank is made of metal and glass. Evods do have a plastic tank (polycarbonate, I think) but if that is burning, you've definitely got big problems.
If the idea of dry burning makes you nervous, you can just buy new coils though.
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The carto is where the atomizer is located and the tank keeps the carto's fiber inside of it wet with liquid to not burn it and so you won't have to refill it all the time. The atomizer is the coil, when heated up by pressing the trigger (the power button on your MVP) it vaporizes the liquid allowing you to get vapor. The carto's and tanks in my mind are pretty much the same thing expect carto's alone have to be dripped in every 10-15 toots, and a tank allows you to just wait until all the juice is gone. Hope this helps.
I've always been told to stay away from DCT's because from what I've been told the two coils can burn at different volt's from splitting the power and burn or be too low. I've never actually owned one myself, is this true in your opinion?
K, hopefully won't add to the confusion that is prevalent when beginning to vape.
An atomizer is the generic term for the device that converts the e-liquid to vapor. It consist of a wick wrapped by wire that heats the liquid that produces the vapor. The wire wrap is called a coil. Atomizers come in many styles, sizes and methods of wicking the e-liquid, commonly referred to as e-juice or just juice. Cartos, clearos, tanks, drippers.... they are all atomizers just different styles. All Vape requires one and all atomizers have a wick and a coil.
Every one has their preferred type of atomizer. I prefer glass or stainless tanks. To me they taste cleaner and can hold enough juice to last a day of vaping. I also prefer a bcc tank. which I believe stand for Bottom Coil Changeable, may have my C's backwards, lol. A protank is example of a bcc tank. It is a good beginners tank and easy to work with, fill and gets the job done.
A carto, or cartomizer, refers to a cartage that has fiber fill of some sort and a coil, that you can drip into to fill and then vape, or use in a carto tank set up, with the carto inside of a tank surrounded by juice. The carto or cartridge has to have holes punched in them so that the juice in the tank can be absorbed into the carto as it is used up.
Then you have re-buildable atomizers, commonly called rba's. This a amore advanced atomizer where the wick and coil is rebuilt and replaced at the users discretion. And there is many, many, many ways to do this and many choices of wicking material, gage of wire, styles, forms and technology to choose from. This is where the dry burn comes in, mostly. lol a dry burn is usually done after a coil build has reduced it's ability to produce vape. One can clean the wick and coil build with warm water, then do a dry burn to burn off the residue that has accumulated on the coil. By cleaning and performing a dry burn one can extend the life of the build. But when this cleaning process no longer recovers the coil and wick build to perform to our expectations, we then do a new build. Build just means wrapping a new wick with wire, creating a new coil head.
all this info can be found if you search the forum like many of us have done and continue to do as we progress. Always something new to learn. HTH
An atomizer is the generic term for the device that converts the e-liquid to vapor. It consist of a wick wrapped by wire that heats the liquid that produces the vapor. The wire wrap is called a coil. Atomizers come in many styles, sizes and methods of wicking the e-liquid, commonly referred to as e-juice or just juice. Cartos, clearos, tanks, drippers.... they are all atomizers just different styles. All Vape requires one and all atomizers have a wick and a coil.
Every one has their preferred type of atomizer. I prefer glass or stainless tanks. To me they taste cleaner and can hold enough juice to last a day of vaping. I also prefer a bcc tank. which I believe stand for Bottom Coil Changeable, may have my C's backwards, lol. A protank is example of a bcc tank. It is a good beginners tank and easy to work with, fill and gets the job done.
A carto, or cartomizer, refers to a cartage that has fiber fill of some sort and a coil, that you can drip into to fill and then vape, or use in a carto tank set up, with the carto inside of a tank surrounded by juice. The carto or cartridge has to have holes punched in them so that the juice in the tank can be absorbed into the carto as it is used up.
Then you have re-buildable atomizers, commonly called rba's. This a amore advanced atomizer where the wick and coil is rebuilt and replaced at the users discretion. And there is many, many, many ways to do this and many choices of wicking material, gage of wire, styles, forms and technology to choose from. This is where the dry burn comes in, mostly. lol a dry burn is usually done after a coil build has reduced it's ability to produce vape. One can clean the wick and coil build with warm water, then do a dry burn to burn off the residue that has accumulated on the coil. By cleaning and performing a dry burn one can extend the life of the build. But when this cleaning process no longer recovers the coil and wick build to perform to our expectations, we then do a new build. Build just means wrapping a new wick with wire, creating a new coil head.
all this info can be found if you search the forum like many of us have done and continue to do as we progress. Always something new to learn. HTH
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