Copper (actually brass) knock-off

[Quigsworth]

Don't know about you guys but I was always drawn to the simplicity of the "Copper" with it's push in switch...I've been tinkering off and on with the mechanism, trying to get it right...i.e. no wobble or play in the atty con., very little pressure to get it to fire (every time) and no springs (I hate springs)...

Parts:
blown Smoktech DC tank carto (the kind with the flat washer on the bottom)
rubber plunger end from a 20ml syringe
3/4 ID brass chase and end caps
5/8 brass bolt
1" #14 awg solid wire

Cost: about $15

Tools:
9.5mm drill bit
soldering iron
propane torch
bench vice
...oh ya, and a $3000 metal lathe

"nailed it!"...no wobble that I can measure, I tweeked it till there's aprox. 1mm travel to fire and very little pressure required to push (the syringe plunger is in a word "perfect")...my new iatty 2 comes this week, I'm hoping it's not too heavy as just the weight of it may cause it to fire, lol

All I need now is a longer chase, a couple 18350's and a evo kick!


View attachment 71983View attachment 71984

 

[kcofohio]

Looks nice. Have you applied clear coat to the exterior of it? That would keep it shiny.

 

[jhonutz]

Nice work. yep how you did that tube so shiny ?

 

[Quigsworth]

While on the lathe, clean it up with a fine file, then 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper, then Mothers Metal Polish (that stuff is awesome)

Sent via priority one sub-space communication

 

[asdaq]

Nice and shiny! You are serious about the lathe, right? The wobble free part, is it that the tolerances are tighter or that there is some resistance from the rubber? Nice concept by the way, would be good with silicone or o-rings too. Heck, even silicone o-rings.

 

[Rocketman]

All I need now is a longer chase, a couple 18350's and a evo kick!

Thought about any vents?

 

[Quigsworth]

Thought about any vents?

Thanks Rocket

 

[Quigsworth]

Nice and shiny! You are serious about the lathe, right? The wobble free part, is it that the tolerances are tighter or that there is some resistance from the rubber? Nice concept by the way, would be good with silicone or o-rings too. Heck, even silicone o-rings.

It's not my concept, that would belong to some guy named Rick @ Atmos USA, he called it the HEX Copper...but for what ever reason ever since I was researching what device to get for my first e-cig I came across this thing on the interweb and thought "novel concept, completely mechanical, should be pretty much bullet proof"...

The rubber syringe end is the resistance, if you can see by the pics, I punched a 1/4" hole through the center of it and place it dome end up on top of the batt, the flat washer of the carto sits on top of that, the rubber dome collapses under what (for me at least) a perfect amount of downward pressure allowing contact, when the pressure is released, it literally "pops" back up to it's off position of the washer against the bolt head. Using the 9.5mm bit the tolerance was so tight I had to spin the carto on the lathe and polish the surface with some 600 grit wet/dry to slide it in, it feels almost fluid so I'm not too concerned about any appreciable v drop through what is essentially the neg. connection.

I'm mostly throwing this up for folks to see because I'm sure I'm not the only one looking for ideas on a good "home brewed" mechanical switch...I just chose the "HEX Copper" as a proof of concept platform. If any one wants a pic breakdown, I'm building a slightly longer atty con tomorrow night so I can use my eGo mega's without a shorty extension.

Oh, and by the way, a lathe (or at least a quality drill press) is absolutely mandatory to make this

 

[Rocketman]

Thanks Rocket

Hey, thanks for the LIKE.

Nice reliable concept for sure.

 

[asdaq]

The hex copper I know about, but that uses a regular spring. It's also a reason for my own naming convention, being up front about the brass. That 'copper' and 'gold 510 connector' drive me nuts.

 

[Quigsworth]

I know it has a spring, which is why I think that switching mechanism and form factor never took off (that and putting the driptip against your teeth, which I'm not entirely sold on either, lol)...I tried a myriad of springs (coil and flat like the Reo's) trying to get a certain "feel"...like a "clicky" tact switch feel, I needed something that was going to "oil can" if you get what I mean.

...lets face it, physically jamming a piece of metal into the end of a batt has all the grace of fishing with dynamite but unless you go semi-conductor, that's essentially what every switch does...this is all about that rubber end on the plunger of a syringe, depending on how you set it up you can basically home brew a large tact switch but with a sky's the limit amp and duty cycle rating...

I hear ya on naming conventions...I guess folks want to drop any "brass" reference because of it's known reaction to the juice...I get that, besides if one could actually turn and thread copper pipe the HEX Copper would actually be made of copper...believe me, I tried, it doesn't "cut", it "rips"...it's just too soft to machine...mind you, I was eating popcorn at the time...maybe that "buttery golden topping" was having an adverse effect.

 

[Para]

I know rock beats scissors, but does lizard beat rock...and what's the scissors/lizard outcome?

 

[Quigsworth]

I know rock beats scissors, but does lizard beat rock...and what's the scissors/lizard outcome?

Scissors cuts the lizards head off...like "duh", lol

 

[Para]

Scissors cuts the lizards head off...like "duh", lol

Thanks for the clarification; I wasn't sure if Lizard took the scissors and stabbed Spock.

 

[wolfstone5]

Really nice job!!! I tried to build one a while back but couldn't figure out how to do the switch. I think that you improved on Rick's design....very creative!!!

 

[Quigsworth]

Thanks wolf, but I really can't take any credit from another man's design, one thing I do wish I could take back is my mention of the cost of the parts, implying "really?, you're charging that much for a hand full of parts from a plumbing supply store?"...this thing has been a time sink like no other mod I've built...what he charges for one of these is maybe a bit light...

Ok, last pic...I took the whole thing down to 600 grit and hit it with a buffer wheel and compound...mirror finish...I couldn't let it be out done by it's new Ody now could I???...cut me some slack guys, it's my one and only vanity mod, lol

View attachment 72307

 

[WillyB]

... I'm mostly throwing this up for folks to see because I'm sure I'm not the only one looking for ideas on a good "home brewed" mechanical switch...

You mean there is such a thing? How do you deal with the oxidation that occurs when not using noble metals and the micro bouncing that occurs when solid, unyielding metals make contact. Keep in mind that battery contacts are not the same as switch contacts.

Hi asdaq

 

[Quigsworth]

I'm well aware of the fact that switch contacts are engineered "purpose" specific but I'm pretty sure my method of negating "micro bounching" is about as effective as the Chinese manufacturer that made the $1.17 3A mom NO in most mods.

I'll get to work right away on designing an "arc chute" for this idea though...I had no idea there would be this much scrutiny

Lighten up Willy, we're not launching the space shuttle here...

 

[asdaq]

I don't think I have a mod where the contact is rigid, so any micro bouncing is likely quickly dampened internally, and externally even by a fleshy finger. For oxidization, cleaning is an option, and I really don't need to do it that often either, once every month or two. Also the slight friction between parts helps with wiping.

I also don't see much oxidization between brass and nickel (the battery) but rather brass and brass. I use a small tube press fit onto a screw which slides inside of another tube and this is where I need to do the most cleaning. For comparison I'm trying brass and brass, copper and silver solder to see if there is any noticeable difference. Copper is doing pretty well and in practice I can't see a reason to not use any of these. After all silver oxidizes too.

As a side, Digikey carries nickel (plated?) #6 32 screws made by Hammond, but $4 for a pack of 6 + shipping seems rather luxurious for the need. Length unknown.

 

[Quigsworth]

The reason for my tongue and cheek sarcastic response to you Willy is with my 20+ yrs. exp. as an industrial controls electrician I'm well versed in the pitfalls of using junk gear, try explaining to a client why I need to take out the res. grade light switch he's using to control a motor in his warehouse and replace it with a $100 HP rated contactor...let's not loose sight of the fact that we're just coming up with wild and creative ways to short out a battery with a piece of Nichrome, as far as I'm concerned, unless I see someone do something potentially dangerous (relative to the danger of shorting out a battery in a box, in our hand, inches from our face )) I say go for it and encourage the creativity not throw up road blocks...