Coppervape BF Mod

[b.m.]

A Coppervape Rescue Shelter.

Haha,yeah that has a nice ring to it,but to make it proper it should be The Coppervape Rescue shelter,and we could even promote it with one of those commercials that come on all the time.For a mere $1 a day,you can help save any and all unloved and mistreated Coppervapes of the world,don't wait start today haha.

 

[LarryPer]

Same here.

Since the Battery can't move, and the Positive side is always at the same position, that's kinda Fool-Proof. The Button Throw is long enough to account for any Variances in Flat Top Heights. So No Problems there. And the Transfer Bar/Spring is making Hard Contacts with the Button/510 Pin. Not sure how that could be any Better?

About the Only place I could see a Possible Issue would be with the 510 pin in the mod not making good Contact with the 510 Pin on the rda.

I don't think its the 510 because if I shake the tp part, sometime it works

 

[herb]

I guess we are all entitled to our own opinion but negative reviews of the CV seem to be extremely rare and that's why I bought two. The odd crappy one likely gets out but I have even heard long time REO fanboys say that the CV is a better overall mod.

Just because someone really dislikes a product doesn't mean it is a crappy product. In my case, I can't stand the Aromamizer. Most owners love it. Just not my thing but it definately works as it should.

The other problem is that there are so many raving reviews, expectations are stupid high!

I don't mind people giving something a bad review , i just find it annoying when people give something a bad review over their ineptness or misunderstanding of something that most can fix with their eyes closed.

Like an Amazon review , person saying something sucks because Amazon didn't meet the two day shipping guarantee or it was not the color they ordered or even they didn't know an electronic device required batteries to work.

 

[herb]

I don't think its the 510 because if I shake the tp part, sometime it works

I would love to see some close up picks of the underside and parts , got to be something simple.

 

[sawlight]

I don't think its the 510 because if I shake the tp part, sometime it works

Really stupid question, are you certain you have the bottle adapter screwed down tight against the switch?

 

[LarryPer]

Really stupid question, are you certain you have the bottle adapter screwed down tight against the switch?

O yeh

 

[BreSha6869]

I just want to know why the hell these are called "Coppervape", but only made in brass and aluminum.

 

[zoiDman]

I don't think its the 510 because if I shake the tp part, sometime it works

OK... Try this.

With the Top portion Off, and holding the Metal Bottle Cap, Loosen the 510 Pin in the Mod about a 1/4 Turn with a Small Screw Driver. Now screw your RDA on.

There should be a Very Small gap now between the RBA and the Mod.

Does it Fire Now?

 

[TheWestPole]

Haha,yeah that has a nice ring to it,but to make it proper it should be The Coppervape Rescue shelter,and we could even promote it with one of those commercials that come on all the time.For a mere $1 a day,you can help save any and all unloved and mistreated Coppervapes of the world,don't wait start today haha.

...

 

[b.m.]

I just want to know why the hell these are called "Coppervape", but only made in brass and aluminum.

I've wondered the same thing ever since i first heard about them.I even asked the sales rep on Facebook if they had any plans to make a copper one,she said they won't be,which sucks too,i'd love to get one of these in copper.

 

[Tamer El-Meehy]

The brass one is too heavy to have as an ADV. I guess a copper one would be even heavier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sonicbomb]

The brass one is too heavy to have as an ADV. I guess a copper one would be even heavier.

Yes, copper is really soft too. I checked the listing on FT and the 'silver' model is stainless steel and aluminium, the 'copper tone' model is stainless steel and brass (primary then secondary material).

Density - Wikipedia
copper 8930kg/cu.m
brass 8400 - 8700kg/cu.m
steel 7850kg/cu.m

Interestingly copper is significantly more conductive that gold, and steel has quite poor conductivity.

Which Metals Conduct Electricity? | Metal Supermarkets - Steel, Aluminum, Stainless, Hot-Rolled, Cold-Rolled, Alloy, Carbon, Galvanized, Brass, Bronze, Copper
1 Silver (Pure) 105%
2 Copper 100%
3 Gold (Pure) 70%
4 Aluminum 61%
5 Brass 28%
6 Zinc 27%
7 Nickel 22%
8 Iron (Pure) 17%
9 Tin 15%
10 Phosphor Bronze 15%
11 Steel (Stainless included) 3-15%
12 Lead (Pure) 7%

* - mine arrived in the UK 12 days ago, but no sign of it yet. :-(

 

[ThaFuzz]

Wooooooo, tracking updated , 11 days from Beijing to Flushing NY. hopefully here tomorrow or Thursday (but usps says "unknown delivery date")

 

[crunchie812]

I don't think its the 510 because if I shake the tp part, sometime it works

This is the same thing that happened with me. I tried everything with the 510 and the firing button/pin and nothing worked. I finally took some 600 grit sand paper to the surfaces where the top and bottom connect and cleaned it up with a scouring pad and alcohol. Hits like a freight train now.

I think the problem may be the clear coat they use on the mod. Probably some nail polish remover applied with a q-tip, and then washed off with a scouring pad, dish soap, and water would do the trick. Do the threads on the battery screw and body as well, they are part of the negative connection as well.

 

[crunchie812]

Yes, copper is really soft too. I checked the listing on FT and the 'silver' model is stainless steel and aluminium, the 'copper tone' model is stainless steel and brass (primary then secondary material).

Density - Wikipedia
copper 8930kg/cu.m
brass 8400 - 8700kg/cu.m
steel 7850kg/cu.m

Interestingly copper is significantly more conductive that gold, and steel has quite poor conductivity.

Which Metals Conduct Electricity? | Metal Supermarkets - Steel, Aluminum, Stainless, Hot-Rolled, Cold-Rolled, Alloy, Carbon, Galvanized, Brass, Bronze, Copper
1 Silver (Pure) 105%
2 Copper 100%
3 Gold (Pure) 70%
4 Aluminum 61%
5 Brass 28%
6 Zinc 27%
7 Nickel 22%
8 Iron (Pure) 17%
9 Tin 15%
10 Phosphor Bronze 15%
11 Steel (Stainless included) 3-15%
12 Lead (Pure) 7%

* - mine arrived in the UK 12 days ago, but no sign of it yet. :-(

I looked up the same info on conductivity last week when I was modding my PEKO, replacing the brass hardware with copper and the SS with brass. I was surprised to see that aluminum has roughly twice the conductivity of brass, because my brass CV hits noticeably harder than my aluminum ones.
<slight pause while I try something>
Ok, I put some deoxit gold on the positive screw, battery threads, and surface where the two parts join. Much better, but still slightly less than the brass. Really have to pay attention to tell the difference. This stuff rocks!
I'm guessing the difference is caused by the small amount of aluminum oxide that forms on pure aluminum when exposed to air.
Anyone who has both the brass and aluminum notice anything similar?

 

[LarryPer]

OK... Try this.

With the Top portion Off, and holding the Metal Bottle Cap, Loosen the 510 Pin in the Mod about a 1/4 Turn with a Small Screw Driver. Now screw your RDA on.

There should be a Very Small gap now between the RBA and the Mod.

Does it Fire Now?

Thanks
I am using a RM2 from Reos
Not sure if its adjustable
will check

 

[LarryPer]

This is the same thing that happened with me. I tried everything with the 510 and the firing button/pin and nothing worked. I finally took some 600 grit sand paper to the surfaces where the top and bottom connect and cleaned it up with a scouring pad and alcohol. Hits like a freight train now.

I think the problem may be the clear coat they use on the mod. Probably some nail polish remover applied with a q-tip, and then washed off with a scouring pad, dish soap, and water would do the trick. Do the threads on the battery screw and body as well, they are part of the negative connection as well.

Thanks

 

[Layzee Vaper]

This is the same thing that happened with me. I tried everything with the 510 and the firing button/pin and nothing worked. I finally took some 600 grit sand paper to the surfaces where the top and bottom connect and cleaned it up with a scouring pad and alcohol. Hits like a freight train now.

I think the problem may be the clear coat they use on the mod. Probably some nail polish remover applied with a q-tip, and then washed off with a scouring pad, dish soap, and water would do the trick. Do the threads on the battery screw and body as well, they are part of the negative connection as well.

I did the same thing as you. It has definitely improved it does hit much more consistently now. But I still get the odd problem, separating the two parts and putting them back together usually resolves it. My guess is there are small differences in the machining and a few of us ended up with a combination of upper and lower parts that don't mate up quite as well as others.

Most of the tips to get these working seem to be related to the 510, button and firing spring. The negative connection is just as important.

I have other options that are just less hassle to use on a daily basis, they work without the constant fettling. But they should they were much more expensive. My CV is a backup so for 30$ it was a reasonable buy. If you get one of the good ones then it's an awesome buy.

 

[herb]

I've wondered the same thing ever since i first heard about them.I even asked the sales rep on Facebook if they had any plans to make a copper one,she said they won't be,which sucks too,i'd love to get one of these in copper.

I was reading the Custom Classic thread a while back and he said making the mods out of all copper is a real pain in the a_ _ .

 

[herb]

This is the same thing that happened with me. I tried everything with the 510 and the firing button/pin and nothing worked. I finally took some 600 grit sand paper to the surfaces where the top and bottom connect and cleaned it up with a scouring pad and alcohol. Hits like a freight train now.

I think the problem may be the clear coat they use on the mod. Probably some nail polish remover applied with a q-tip, and then washed off with a scouring pad, dish soap, and water would do the trick. Do the threads on the battery screw and body as well, they are part of the negative connection as well.

Excellent job figuring that out , didn't even think of the coating being an issue.