Luckily i don't have that problem.I would of usually went the cheaper shipping,as i like to save money,but with all this crap going on here,i want them here as quick as possible before bad stuff starts happening.
Coppervape BF Mod
- Thread starter Layzee Vaper
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DHL didn't carry my Coppervape into the woods, but they transferred the package to USPS when they got to the river.
Ditto - I used DHL for one order and e-packet for the other, and they both arrived in the mail.
Picked up a brass one direct from the manufacturer's face book page. It arrived within the expected time frame and they marked it up as a total value of less than $25 so I did not have to pay any import tax or VAT in the UK.
The mod itself seems to be machined well and performs as you would expect from a single 18650 mech.
Button is nice and wide, locks and unlocks as it should. I did have to clean up the positive contact to get the mod to fire in a more consistent way. I like the position of the squonk hole. Swapping the battery and filling the juice bottle is easy. No leaks from the bottle or the 510 on the inside of the mod. The bottle is soft and no splits. It's nice that replacements are readily available.
I had to clean of the clear cote on the mod as it was wearing off after a couple of days use. Not a big deal as I intend to let the mod gain some natural patina anyway.
With the included atty I did not have to make any adjustments to the positive pin, It works ok, but it does leak from the bottom air holes unless you are very careful with your squonk and make sure the mod is upright.
Its not really my kind of atty. I prefer the smaller single coil RM2 or Chalice, both worked ok but I did have to adjust the positive pin using an o ring to get consistent firing and the air hole of the atty positioned where I wanted them. I would prefer an easier method to adjust the centre pin, like the screw adjustment in my REO.
Its not a deal breaker but worth noting if you swap your atty often.
It is heavy, a bit too heavy for me to use as an out and about mod, I usually carry my mod in my shirt pocket. I suspect the aluminium version would be fine.
There is no protection in terms of a fuse or hot spring this is another reason that for me it won't be an out and about mod, I will use it at home or work where I have access to kit to check my build is safe in the event that I drop the mod.
Overall it seems to be a decent mod for the money, it's not perfect but performs well enough for me to keep hold of it. A good backup mod in case I loose the REO.
The mod itself seems to be machined well and performs as you would expect from a single 18650 mech.
Button is nice and wide, locks and unlocks as it should. I did have to clean up the positive contact to get the mod to fire in a more consistent way. I like the position of the squonk hole. Swapping the battery and filling the juice bottle is easy. No leaks from the bottle or the 510 on the inside of the mod. The bottle is soft and no splits. It's nice that replacements are readily available.
I had to clean of the clear cote on the mod as it was wearing off after a couple of days use. Not a big deal as I intend to let the mod gain some natural patina anyway.
With the included atty I did not have to make any adjustments to the positive pin, It works ok, but it does leak from the bottom air holes unless you are very careful with your squonk and make sure the mod is upright.
Its not really my kind of atty. I prefer the smaller single coil RM2 or Chalice, both worked ok but I did have to adjust the positive pin using an o ring to get consistent firing and the air hole of the atty positioned where I wanted them. I would prefer an easier method to adjust the centre pin, like the screw adjustment in my REO.
Its not a deal breaker but worth noting if you swap your atty often.
It is heavy, a bit too heavy for me to use as an out and about mod, I usually carry my mod in my shirt pocket. I suspect the aluminium version would be fine.
There is no protection in terms of a fuse or hot spring this is another reason that for me it won't be an out and about mod, I will use it at home or work where I have access to kit to check my build is safe in the event that I drop the mod.
Overall it seems to be a decent mod for the money, it's not perfect but performs well enough for me to keep hold of it. A good backup mod in case I loose the REO.
Ordered my bare aluminum and brass mods yesterday,and i gotta say so far i am very impressed with the customer service aspect.Ordered thursday,they shipped first thing friday,and since i got the Dhl shipping,my package is scheduled for delivery on tuesday.I was hesitant about spending $25 for shipping,but if it is in my hands from half way around the world that fast,then it was money well spent.
I received my two today. One brass one silver. Here's a sort of mini review on both aged a days usage. Skip to the bottom if you just want a couple photos for size comparison to come popular gear. The bfa I'm using are 2x Mark bugs chalice v3. I do have an origin v3 with bfa conversion and a sov sod5k single air hole cap with bfa conversion too. If anyone wants to see those mounted on either let me know.
The brass is certainly he nicer of the two aesthetically and initially feels the better value (more on this phenomenon later) but it's also never going to leave the house as the weight is untenable. It would , were I wearing anything without a belt lead to my trousers around my ankles. I don't have a scale at the hotel but Ian guessing s solid pound maybe more. And I natch a small device that means dense. It's probably fine for sitting on a nightstand and such with your absolute favorite vape but if you're planning on getting one squonk mod to go everywhere with you this model isn't the one for a jack of all trades
The silver is very very light. It is small and could easily be taken out in a pocket or purse (not sure how squonking does for spilling in purses) . It is advertised on their Facebook as almost no power drop, However that's probably partially due to the fact it has absolutely no coating whatsoever (I believe a coating like the sdna would go well on this). So I'd guess it's going to get absolutely beaten up in a pocket or purse. That said the extraordinarily low price and the capability to do a biweekly/ monthly Refinish with a scotch brite pad for a 2 bucks a year probably makes the lack of coating irrelevant. If the black and white don't hold up you don't have that option. Unless you work all the finish off and wind up
With one just like this anyway but a lot more work.
When first receiving the non brass mod it's really easy to think "'aw crap, this is made of tin can, Literally." But once you look how it works and deal with s fully assembled unit you realize this is not the case. The manufacture is clearly designed for weight savings and it pays off. It seems very structurally sound despite he light weight I don't see any areas that look prone to easy bending.
The brass is just build like a brick ....house.
The battery cap on both is not good imo. Because they made it as short as possible the battery cap is very thin. It's strong enough but grasping It to put in place is a bit cumbersome.
A couple of points.
I haven't used the bfa it comes with yet. But it seeks to me the judgment may be a bit harsh. It seeks super cheap because it has same thing going as the mod. It's very very light. Clearly the bfa is s low end bfa, design wise it looks pretty good - is it s clone of an existing design ? The fact it comes with s proper mtl drop
Tip as well as a chuff cap is a plus. The way the four air slots work is intelligent , the top two can be blocked. The bottom two spin round and feed air holes directly under coil. This should actually present pretty god flavor. I'll try one later. Maybe ill love it but undoing it can compete with the chalice.
When you get the coppervape, or imo any mod from any where , you should clean it. I did not detect any strange odor. Indie not see any obvious oil. But as I do not vape decides inhaler personally sanitized j can't comment on actual cleanliness or contamination. It did not seem any dirtier than many other devices, including authentic tanks ice paid hundreds firm. So my thought its they do at least one solid bathing after machining. When you dissemble it make sure you don't place any batteries in and recap it. That would be a bad move given the button press and 510 area see saw and the fact it moves left to right when you dismantle the feed parts to bathe them. You do want to make sure you get the feeder parts cleaned as your juice is hitting them more than anything else. Save the bottles.bwhen reassembling make sure you properly align the insulators.
IT IS ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL NIT JUST THAT THAT THOSE UNFAMILIAR WITH MECH MODS NOT ONLY READ ABOUT AND UNDERSTAND OHMS LAW, THE FACT YOU CANT USE BATTERIES WITH ANY SUPERFICIAL DAMAGE TO THE WRAPPER OR TOP BUT THAT YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT CONSTITUTES A DEVJCE SHORTING ITSELF. IT'S VERY EASY TO CONSIDER THE ATOMIZER BUT WITH THESE DEVICES YOU NEED TO CONSIDER THE ENTIRE DEVICE, especially the top plate assembly with all the insulators and mechanical parts.
The liquid feed underneath / part of the 510 is a but deceptive. Because I use 90% vg I was concerned when the feed hole liked somewhat narrow. What happened in usage was that it actually solved issues i was having with the steam crave using thick juice. I actually thought it was a design issue with the chalice by it turns out the steam crave feed, which was larger than the copper vape feed, was the root. There are no leaks but on reassembly you need to tighten well without cranking on the bottle top. The parts here seem to be well Made but are small and I'd guess rampant tightening could bend or snap a couple Of them.
I can't imagine 18650 button top batteries working well. My various flat tops are all a tight fit. The one nice thing is the way the cap goes you could use a 500 series battery and tighten it down more. There is no hard stop to the threading that I see. I'll double check that. The button tops will probably fit but I'd be concerned about the cap extending beyond the base and creating instability standing up.
I understand they prevent battery insertion from the top to protect against shorts but I feel a bit more consideration would have provided a way to get both. Inserting form the top would have been A considerable improvement - while retaining the bottom cap for adjustments to secure and avoid rattle.
The button in pictures looks plastic. It isn't. The lock seems to work well. Without s battery in there you may have the initial thought its a crappy button, squishy or too long a throw. When assembled and tightened down I sit find that the case. Bindi find with s button this wide there's a little inconsistency due to how easy it is to press the side of the button not straight down
I'm not sure how the inspirational authentic works in this regard. I do feel this mod is different enough to say inspired by not a copy of. In sure some will disagree but if so you also must insider the hurricane tank a complete ripoff of the Taifun. The insisted is into heavy borrowing if design elements. But in don't see this as a clone. Maybe I'm looking at he wrong source device. The one I see is similar but looks different and works differently.
I'm sure ice missed stuff I wanted to cover. I'll either edit this or amend later. If you're considering ordering one non brass either don't spend $25 on shipping and save money for your patience. Or get slow shipping and buy a second instead. I suppose some of The value of this is eroded with the expense of three day DHL. If you're not in a big hurry why pay 100% of the device cost in shipping. If you're ordering one of every color then it doesn't much matter.
As a final thought the silver one I received was damaged. There is a giant massive scratch/ gouge right below the cv logo. Ice contacted but it was way past hours in China. So I probably won't have an update on what they're going to do about it. I can't just scour it out. If I run f get wild over it, very deep.
There was no damage to the boxes. Not one of them. So either it was put its retail packaging with that damage or somehow the skates bag containing Allen wrench and such wedged in between the top and mod. And or wait cashed it. I'm a bit surprised they didn't spend he $.02 to do a plastic sheet finish route torn. The kind you sort if peek off that he s thicker rubbery material - not he thin screen protector stuff I suspect it comes down to manpower more than material costs.
I paid $89 for the brass, aluninum, and three day shipping it arrived to China in two days. Even with the shopping add in its a Kerry inexpensive endeavor and providing they remedy the major gouge. It's probably unmatched for value. No it's not the worlds best build quality. By there are very few karts to complain about. The magnets holding the top are very strong. And he threading all all very clean and well done.
Here are the size comparisons photos along with general shots. Hopefully my thoughts along with them offer some help deciding. Remember the damage seems to be an anomaly. Actually it doesn't look as bad as it is in reality in the photo below. Bree option doesn't capture the depth at all
This regulated steam crave mod is in the same ballpark cost wise. For those in need of an inexpensive regulated solution. But the size is a considerable increase (the steam crave is still pretty sleek and the brass cv weighs at least 2.5 times). The stem crave is slightly larger than a deck of cards.
And here's a bit closer if a few. I have other devices by I feel you should be able ringside real size based on something here.
The order process is different in that you discuss via chat and get s PayPal invoice rather than going to a digital storefront or Facebook list. It's better than the stupid lists opened weird times with xx many spots. I paid and it was sent immediately. Remember China is 12-15 hours ahead if the USA. So even ordering late Wednesday will mean it may nitnarrivenuntik Monday. I don't know if dhl do weekend delivery. But they need time to Oreo it and drop. So if you're going with 3 day a Monday headway early Wednesday order is the best bet to get your knees worth on delivery times. The person identifying as Serena is helpful patient and pleasant. Please remnant never to give a credit card number over Facebook. Nobody legit will ever ask in Facebook chat or posts or if they call you on the phone either.
As a note I didn't need to clean the positive pin but I'll double check it. Neither did I need to adjust my chalice v3,s or add o rings. For minor chalice adjustments I'd probably just tweak the bottom screw on the chalice 30'degrees or less - you can tell where my air holes sit. Bindi think the ability to adjust orientation would be a welcome change.
Generally this seems to be a good value. It's incredibly inexpensive. Especially if you take epacket shipping. Surprisingly I am happier with the aluminum overall for feel. I know the brass is chained to my home. $25 , ultraportable, almost no drop. Side form the fact it will be batteries most likely this seems a very good decide to take out an about. If dropped. Who cares. If I can get feedback on the black and white finish I may buy another. Origins they sort out the damaged one
For those who buy clones and like flavor type mtl devices the coppervape Calix v2 clone seems just about if not 1:1. As to my thoughts on thencalix - another thread perhaps but the clone quality on that one is very high. Their clone atomizers are very inexpensive when added to your order. I think the hurricane Jr. was $9. Calix v2 $12. Kayfun v5 $14. Don't quote me. But they're all around there. So if you ever a hobbyist and those toe of decides suit your style and you buy clones. May want to consider adding one or more. I don't really buy clones anymore. Most of the decides in the pictures are authentic. But s good clone is a good clone.
The brass is certainly he nicer of the two aesthetically and initially feels the better value (more on this phenomenon later) but it's also never going to leave the house as the weight is untenable. It would , were I wearing anything without a belt lead to my trousers around my ankles. I don't have a scale at the hotel but Ian guessing s solid pound maybe more. And I natch a small device that means dense. It's probably fine for sitting on a nightstand and such with your absolute favorite vape but if you're planning on getting one squonk mod to go everywhere with you this model isn't the one for a jack of all trades
The silver is very very light. It is small and could easily be taken out in a pocket or purse (not sure how squonking does for spilling in purses) . It is advertised on their Facebook as almost no power drop, However that's probably partially due to the fact it has absolutely no coating whatsoever (I believe a coating like the sdna would go well on this). So I'd guess it's going to get absolutely beaten up in a pocket or purse. That said the extraordinarily low price and the capability to do a biweekly/ monthly Refinish with a scotch brite pad for a 2 bucks a year probably makes the lack of coating irrelevant. If the black and white don't hold up you don't have that option. Unless you work all the finish off and wind up
With one just like this anyway but a lot more work.
When first receiving the non brass mod it's really easy to think "'aw crap, this is made of tin can, Literally." But once you look how it works and deal with s fully assembled unit you realize this is not the case. The manufacture is clearly designed for weight savings and it pays off. It seems very structurally sound despite he light weight I don't see any areas that look prone to easy bending.
The brass is just build like a brick ....house.
The battery cap on both is not good imo. Because they made it as short as possible the battery cap is very thin. It's strong enough but grasping It to put in place is a bit cumbersome.
A couple of points.
I haven't used the bfa it comes with yet. But it seeks to me the judgment may be a bit harsh. It seeks super cheap because it has same thing going as the mod. It's very very light. Clearly the bfa is s low end bfa, design wise it looks pretty good - is it s clone of an existing design ? The fact it comes with s proper mtl drop
Tip as well as a chuff cap is a plus. The way the four air slots work is intelligent , the top two can be blocked. The bottom two spin round and feed air holes directly under coil. This should actually present pretty god flavor. I'll try one later. Maybe ill love it but undoing it can compete with the chalice.
When you get the coppervape, or imo any mod from any where , you should clean it. I did not detect any strange odor. Indie not see any obvious oil. But as I do not vape decides inhaler personally sanitized j can't comment on actual cleanliness or contamination. It did not seem any dirtier than many other devices, including authentic tanks ice paid hundreds firm. So my thought its they do at least one solid bathing after machining. When you dissemble it make sure you don't place any batteries in and recap it. That would be a bad move given the button press and 510 area see saw and the fact it moves left to right when you dismantle the feed parts to bathe them. You do want to make sure you get the feeder parts cleaned as your juice is hitting them more than anything else. Save the bottles.bwhen reassembling make sure you properly align the insulators.
IT IS ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL NIT JUST THAT THAT THOSE UNFAMILIAR WITH MECH MODS NOT ONLY READ ABOUT AND UNDERSTAND OHMS LAW, THE FACT YOU CANT USE BATTERIES WITH ANY SUPERFICIAL DAMAGE TO THE WRAPPER OR TOP BUT THAT YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT CONSTITUTES A DEVJCE SHORTING ITSELF. IT'S VERY EASY TO CONSIDER THE ATOMIZER BUT WITH THESE DEVICES YOU NEED TO CONSIDER THE ENTIRE DEVICE, especially the top plate assembly with all the insulators and mechanical parts.
The liquid feed underneath / part of the 510 is a but deceptive. Because I use 90% vg I was concerned when the feed hole liked somewhat narrow. What happened in usage was that it actually solved issues i was having with the steam crave using thick juice. I actually thought it was a design issue with the chalice by it turns out the steam crave feed, which was larger than the copper vape feed, was the root. There are no leaks but on reassembly you need to tighten well without cranking on the bottle top. The parts here seem to be well Made but are small and I'd guess rampant tightening could bend or snap a couple Of them.
I can't imagine 18650 button top batteries working well. My various flat tops are all a tight fit. The one nice thing is the way the cap goes you could use a 500 series battery and tighten it down more. There is no hard stop to the threading that I see. I'll double check that. The button tops will probably fit but I'd be concerned about the cap extending beyond the base and creating instability standing up.
I understand they prevent battery insertion from the top to protect against shorts but I feel a bit more consideration would have provided a way to get both. Inserting form the top would have been A considerable improvement - while retaining the bottom cap for adjustments to secure and avoid rattle.
The button in pictures looks plastic. It isn't. The lock seems to work well. Without s battery in there you may have the initial thought its a crappy button, squishy or too long a throw. When assembled and tightened down I sit find that the case. Bindi find with s button this wide there's a little inconsistency due to how easy it is to press the side of the button not straight down
I'm not sure how the inspirational authentic works in this regard. I do feel this mod is different enough to say inspired by not a copy of. In sure some will disagree but if so you also must insider the hurricane tank a complete ripoff of the Taifun. The insisted is into heavy borrowing if design elements. But in don't see this as a clone. Maybe I'm looking at he wrong source device. The one I see is similar but looks different and works differently.
I'm sure ice missed stuff I wanted to cover. I'll either edit this or amend later. If you're considering ordering one non brass either don't spend $25 on shipping and save money for your patience. Or get slow shipping and buy a second instead. I suppose some of The value of this is eroded with the expense of three day DHL. If you're not in a big hurry why pay 100% of the device cost in shipping. If you're ordering one of every color then it doesn't much matter.
As a final thought the silver one I received was damaged. There is a giant massive scratch/ gouge right below the cv logo. Ice contacted but it was way past hours in China. So I probably won't have an update on what they're going to do about it. I can't just scour it out. If I run f get wild over it, very deep.
There was no damage to the boxes. Not one of them. So either it was put its retail packaging with that damage or somehow the skates bag containing Allen wrench and such wedged in between the top and mod. And or wait cashed it. I'm a bit surprised they didn't spend he $.02 to do a plastic sheet finish route torn. The kind you sort if peek off that he s thicker rubbery material - not he thin screen protector stuff I suspect it comes down to manpower more than material costs.
I paid $89 for the brass, aluninum, and three day shipping it arrived to China in two days. Even with the shopping add in its a Kerry inexpensive endeavor and providing they remedy the major gouge. It's probably unmatched for value. No it's not the worlds best build quality. By there are very few karts to complain about. The magnets holding the top are very strong. And he threading all all very clean and well done.
Here are the size comparisons photos along with general shots. Hopefully my thoughts along with them offer some help deciding. Remember the damage seems to be an anomaly. Actually it doesn't look as bad as it is in reality in the photo below. Bree option doesn't capture the depth at all
This regulated steam crave mod is in the same ballpark cost wise. For those in need of an inexpensive regulated solution. But the size is a considerable increase (the steam crave is still pretty sleek and the brass cv weighs at least 2.5 times). The stem crave is slightly larger than a deck of cards.
And here's a bit closer if a few. I have other devices by I feel you should be able ringside real size based on something here.
The order process is different in that you discuss via chat and get s PayPal invoice rather than going to a digital storefront or Facebook list. It's better than the stupid lists opened weird times with xx many spots. I paid and it was sent immediately. Remember China is 12-15 hours ahead if the USA. So even ordering late Wednesday will mean it may nitnarrivenuntik Monday. I don't know if dhl do weekend delivery. But they need time to Oreo it and drop. So if you're going with 3 day a Monday headway early Wednesday order is the best bet to get your knees worth on delivery times. The person identifying as Serena is helpful patient and pleasant. Please remnant never to give a credit card number over Facebook. Nobody legit will ever ask in Facebook chat or posts or if they call you on the phone either.
As a note I didn't need to clean the positive pin but I'll double check it. Neither did I need to adjust my chalice v3,s or add o rings. For minor chalice adjustments I'd probably just tweak the bottom screw on the chalice 30'degrees or less - you can tell where my air holes sit. Bindi think the ability to adjust orientation would be a welcome change.
Generally this seems to be a good value. It's incredibly inexpensive. Especially if you take epacket shipping. Surprisingly I am happier with the aluminum overall for feel. I know the brass is chained to my home. $25 , ultraportable, almost no drop. Side form the fact it will be batteries most likely this seems a very good decide to take out an about. If dropped. Who cares. If I can get feedback on the black and white finish I may buy another. Origins they sort out the damaged one
For those who buy clones and like flavor type mtl devices the coppervape Calix v2 clone seems just about if not 1:1. As to my thoughts on thencalix - another thread perhaps but the clone quality on that one is very high. Their clone atomizers are very inexpensive when added to your order. I think the hurricane Jr. was $9. Calix v2 $12. Kayfun v5 $14. Don't quote me. But they're all around there. So if you ever a hobbyist and those toe of decides suit your style and you buy clones. May want to consider adding one or more. I don't really buy clones anymore. Most of the decides in the pictures are authentic. But s good clone is a good clone.
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Just an FYI:
But if anyone is looking for a BF Ready RDA for their Coppervape, here is a Review posted in another thread for the Movkin JC25-RDA.
But if anyone is looking for a BF Ready RDA for their Coppervape, here is a Review posted in another thread for the Movkin JC25-RDA.
So I picked up one of these in brass! £37 I think, via ePacket to the UK, took 12 days. I also went for the brass SXK Kennedy 24 clone from FT, because the copper pin looked like it'd be nice to drill out. I actually found that my drill bits couldn't get any further than halfway, so I filed a flat notch and cut through to the massive drill hole I made.
First impressions; it's awesome. The Kennedy clone is top notch, and gives a great vape, I'm running dual 316L 0.5mm 8.5 wrap spaced on 3mm for 0.19 ohms. The squonk action is great, and I've got another one of these bottles lying around somewhere. The button is nice, and the lock is pretty solid, especially with the contact tight. I did have some firing issues at first, it needed a hard press or some lateral force, and I think this is because of the whole top coming off magnet ordeal, which I really like actually. However I've since given it a good bash with some nevr-dull, and it fires perfect now.
I did some multimeter tests on it too after the polish: 4.11v battery, 3.16V over the 0.19 ohm coils, works out at 0.026 ohms for the battery (25R), mod, atty all together, which is one of the best I've come across. All in all really impressed!
Oh and the included RDA isn't bad either! I went straight for the lung hit build, but it can be closed down for M2L too. Flavour is pretty good for a 'freebie'.
First impressions; it's awesome. The Kennedy clone is top notch, and gives a great vape, I'm running dual 316L 0.5mm 8.5 wrap spaced on 3mm for 0.19 ohms. The squonk action is great, and I've got another one of these bottles lying around somewhere. The button is nice, and the lock is pretty solid, especially with the contact tight. I did have some firing issues at first, it needed a hard press or some lateral force, and I think this is because of the whole top coming off magnet ordeal, which I really like actually. However I've since given it a good bash with some nevr-dull, and it fires perfect now.
I did some multimeter tests on it too after the polish: 4.11v battery, 3.16V over the 0.19 ohm coils, works out at 0.026 ohms for the battery (25R), mod, atty all together, which is one of the best I've come across. All in all really impressed!
Oh and the included RDA isn't bad either! I went straight for the lung hit build, but it can be closed down for M2L too. Flavour is pretty good for a 'freebie'.
What's a Kennedy clone ? The bfa on top?
I actually really like it polished like that. I'm going to bust out a cape cod cloth and do mine. I only wonder if it won't suit the chalice v3.
I agree in the Rda. It's definitely acceptable for s freebie.
I am curious how that button polishes up. I don't know if it's aluminum and finished black or what. It seems like it's solid black like if you scratched it would be black underneath it bt I have no idea.
The weight if the brass is something in acclimating to.
Thanks for checking the resistance of the brass. Grab a singer one if you want something 1/3 the weight to take with you. They say it's half the weight. Feels like 1/3
Nice write up mate.
Oh I was wrong in my assertion about button tops. I think they allocated space for r so if anything it would make he button more sensitive and eliminate the slight play in the horizontal plane.
I actually really like it polished like that. I'm going to bust out a cape cod cloth and do mine. I only wonder if it won't suit the chalice v3.
I agree in the Rda. It's definitely acceptable for s freebie.
I am curious how that button polishes up. I don't know if it's aluminum and finished black or what. It seems like it's solid black like if you scratched it would be black underneath it bt I have no idea.
The weight if the brass is something in acclimating to.
Thanks for checking the resistance of the brass. Grab a singer one if you want something 1/3 the weight to take with you. They say it's half the weight. Feels like 1/3
Nice write up mate.
Oh I was wrong in my assertion about button tops. I think they allocated space for r so if anything it would make he button more sensitive and eliminate the slight play in the horizontal plane.
Kennedy clone is this, Fasttech. You can see where the pin fits in the base of the deck, and the fact it looks half-way drilled already suggests it'd be a simple conversion. It was a little challenging, and would've been much easier with a drill press, but I managed it. I'd show some pics but I've damaged the hex slot, so it needs tightening with pliers, which subsequently damage the copper which needs filing, so that pin is in for good now.
Yeah polished up it's really nice, my pic doesn't do it justice, and I haven't managed to get all the clearcoat off yet. Nevr-dull wasn't really designed for it and after a good scrub it wasn't clear where the clearcoat started and ended. Now I've got it cleaned up I can see and I'm gonna get it off with the next polish.
Not sure on the button, but I think it's anodized aluminium, from the way it looks, feels and sounds. The weight doesn't really bother me, but I can definitely see how it could be a bit much for someone.
As for button-tops, I don't know, my battery cap is flush with the bottom of the mod and there's only about 1.5-2mm of travel for the button. I don't own any button-tops so I can't test, but if they are a fair bit longer I can see this just autofiring. Another plus point for the magnetic connection though!
For my first foray into squonkers, I'm thoroughly impressed, consider me a convert!
Yeah polished up it's really nice, my pic doesn't do it justice, and I haven't managed to get all the clearcoat off yet. Nevr-dull wasn't really designed for it and after a good scrub it wasn't clear where the clearcoat started and ended. Now I've got it cleaned up I can see and I'm gonna get it off with the next polish.
Not sure on the button, but I think it's anodized aluminium, from the way it looks, feels and sounds. The weight doesn't really bother me, but I can definitely see how it could be a bit much for someone.
As for button-tops, I don't know, my battery cap is flush with the bottom of the mod and there's only about 1.5-2mm of travel for the button. I don't own any button-tops so I can't test, but if they are a fair bit longer I can see this just autofiring. Another plus point for the magnetic connection though!
For my first foray into squonkers, I'm thoroughly impressed, consider me a convert!
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For what it's worth,
I've had some issues with inconsistent firing with this mod, works fine for a while then will not fire properly.
I had cleaned up the face's of the upper and lower parts with some emery and also cleaned up the screw / firing pin. The connection on the 510 was also cleaned up and tight. All parts had a coating of nolax to help with the connection.
The button is some kind of plastic, I snapped the bottom off trying to pinch up the firing pin screw to stop the intermittent firing.
Still not sure what the problem is, maybe not getting a good enough negative connection through the connecting face's or the magnets?
I am going to have to do some modifications to make this work for me. I just can't be doing with a mod that is this inconsistent. (I have been spoilt as I use a REO that has been ultra reliable for the last 18 months)
I think I am going to drill out the magnets and replace them with a couple of decent quality 4mm banana connectors these would be about an inch long and protrude into the body of the mod. This should ensure a better electrical connection and still allow me access to the juice bottle and firing pin assembly.
I am also going to have make up a different positive contact and button.
It's a shame because when the mod is firing properly it's not bad at all.
I've had some issues with inconsistent firing with this mod, works fine for a while then will not fire properly.
I had cleaned up the face's of the upper and lower parts with some emery and also cleaned up the screw / firing pin. The connection on the 510 was also cleaned up and tight. All parts had a coating of nolax to help with the connection.
The button is some kind of plastic, I snapped the bottom off trying to pinch up the firing pin screw to stop the intermittent firing.
Still not sure what the problem is, maybe not getting a good enough negative connection through the connecting face's or the magnets?
I am going to have to do some modifications to make this work for me. I just can't be doing with a mod that is this inconsistent. (I have been spoilt as I use a REO that has been ultra reliable for the last 18 months)
I think I am going to drill out the magnets and replace them with a couple of decent quality 4mm banana connectors these would be about an inch long and protrude into the body of the mod. This should ensure a better electrical connection and still allow me access to the juice bottle and firing pin assembly.
I am also going to have make up a different positive contact and button.
It's a shame because when the mod is firing properly it's not bad at all.
Sorry to hear that.
Mine's shown not the slightest hint of that (while my Dripbox - that DOES have some fire button issues...).
Could the issue be at the 510/atty connection?
That just seems like a more likely point of poor contact compared to the other spots you're working on! Same trouble with multiple atties?
Mine's shown not the slightest hint of that (while my Dripbox - that DOES have some fire button issues...).
Could the issue be at the 510/atty connection?
That just seems like a more likely point of poor contact compared to the other spots you're working on! Same trouble with multiple atties?
I'm enjoying the Coppervape, and so far, it seems like for the money, it's really well made.
Honestly, I think the biggest difference is going to be
a) DURABILITY and b) Support
That Reo pictured has been dropped like 20 times. Last week I literally threw it about 8 feet onto concrete. Not on purpose - I was "gesturing" while talking, and it flew. It was a pretty bad crash. Picked it up and vaped it. I have NO doubt that literally any other mod would have been history by now, but that Reo Grand is my "comes with me everywhere" you-can-count-on-it mod.
And if I need something: a firing pin, a new door, a new tube, or a repair done FOR me cuz I've screwed up the 510 or something - I can send it to Rob and get it fixed.
Differences in use:
- Coppervape is very similar in overall width and depth, but of course is "rounded".
- Coppervape is shorter
- Coppervape has a gigantic bottle!! Like 15mls, about double the standard Reo bottle.
- Coppervape battery cover is a screw-in-the bottom disk that's a little tricky to hold on to
- I don't believe there is any "hard short protection" like the Reo spring
- SO FAR, no trouble at all with the button or the 510 - but you'll have to ask me again in a couple years to compare that to my Reo - which also has no trouble with the button or 510 with over 2 years of daily use and abuse.
Hope that helps!!
Honestly, I think the biggest difference is going to be
a) DURABILITY and b) Support
That Reo pictured has been dropped like 20 times. Last week I literally threw it about 8 feet onto concrete. Not on purpose - I was "gesturing" while talking, and it flew. It was a pretty bad crash. Picked it up and vaped it. I have NO doubt that literally any other mod would have been history by now, but that Reo Grand is my "comes with me everywhere" you-can-count-on-it mod.
And if I need something: a firing pin, a new door, a new tube, or a repair done FOR me cuz I've screwed up the 510 or something - I can send it to Rob and get it fixed.
Differences in use:
- Coppervape is very similar in overall width and depth, but of course is "rounded".
- Coppervape is shorter
- Coppervape has a gigantic bottle!! Like 15mls, about double the standard Reo bottle.
- Coppervape battery cover is a screw-in-the bottom disk that's a little tricky to hold on to
- I don't believe there is any "hard short protection" like the Reo spring
- SO FAR, no trouble at all with the button or the 510 - but you'll have to ask me again in a couple years to compare that to my Reo - which also has no trouble with the button or 510 with over 2 years of daily use and abuse.
Hope that helps!!
Pretty sure its not the 510 or that end of the posittve connector, its making good contact as far as I can tell with a meter. Not an atty problem as all of them are working without issue on the grand.....
I thought I had sussed it by cleaning up the positive connector, but it works for a while then I get intermittent firing. I'm not running this at low ohms either so no pitting on the battery or positive connection point.
That's why I am looking at the negative side of the circuit now.......
I'll update when I suss it out for sure...
The top plate/magnet combo wouldn't cause this (unless you had something coating the surface between the body and plate that isn't conductive). The most common causes of that on a mod of this design is poor atty connection or a build-up on the firing pin (the lower resistance you build your coil, the faster the build-up occurs).
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I've experienced the same problem.
I've noticed that if I push the button at an angle, it will usually fire.
If I clean the surface between the major sections, it will usually fire.
Both of these solutions are temporary, however, & I expect they just allow more power to flow to overcome a weak contact elsewhere.
Somewhere there is a bad contact & it's time to completely disassemble this thing & learn more about it. Please let us know if you find that weak point before I do.
Maybe some No-ox on the battery door threads?
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PROBABLY coinkydink, but I actually did that before I ever fired it up.
Seemed a little "crunchy" so I noaloxed it...
Seemed a little "crunchy" so I noaloxed it...
The only time I notice his is if I don't crank down on the battery cap. Super tight.
Are you using button or flat top battery ? I'm surprised to read this is a consistent issue as neither of mine experience it and both have crystal clear contacts. Is everything screwed together? I mean very very tight
Here's what my contacts look like, clean and shiny. I didn't do anything to them. Maybe there's a coating or I'm tightening the battery door more. ?
Even the lateral movement I discussed can be minimized by really tightening the battery cap.
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