Coppervape BF Mod

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KentA

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The only time I notice his is if I don't crank down on the battery cap. Super tight.

Are you using button or flat top battery ? I'm surprised to read this is a consistent issue as neither of mine experience it and both have crystal clear contacts. Is everything screwed together? I mean very very tight


Here's what my contacts look like, clean and shiny. I didn't do anything to them. Maybe there's a coating or I'm tightening the battery door more. ?

Even the lateral movement I discussed can be minimized by really tightening the battery cap.

5425d1f7993dcf9bb26a5828996dc017.jpg
Flat top & everything seems tight. Too tight for easy maintenance.
It's working fine now, but I will be completely disassembling it for inspection, cleaning & no-ox-id.
 
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h00ligan

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I would think about covering the section of positive contact between the 510 connection and contact head with something like heat shrink wrap....avoid any possible shorts

Sent from my LGMS631 using Tapatalk

There's an insulator below each and running along. It can be shifted out but aside from total dissemble or at least removing the feed pin in the 510. It shouldn't be moving.
 

h00ligan

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I just played around adjusting the button screw. If it's undone a bit the firing gets quite inconsistent. If I tighten it down the true is slightly longer and it's way more consistent. And safer.

If they had worked a wound spring inter mix it would be a much safer mod.


Edit. Confirmed.
The mod needs the firing button screw tightened to remove crunchiness. If you're worried about damaging it you can remove the bar that creates he spring and increase the bend slightly probably.
 
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h00ligan

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Hey guys, I just wanted to let you know something else. Not only do you need to screw down the button screw a little bit more but I think one of the differences between experiences were all having has to do with how tight the top of the bottle is screwed into the 510 I screwed my name pretty tightly. The tighter it is, the more smooth the button press action is, because it works on the lever /seesaw system.

So for those of you finding it a little crunchy or inconsistent or maybe some slop side to side or it seems to catch before it fires try screw the bottle top in a little bit more. Do be careful though because it feels to me like if you overdid it you could strip it pretty easily that said I went pretty tight on my end button action definitely smooth out a great deal. I know this seems like a really basic stuff but I think the nature of the design means that the only difference they can really exists how tight the assembly is on the top

Failing a button tightening or Bottletop tightening working my next step would be to remove the lever plate and bend it just a hair more which would apply more pressure to book and accomplish the same as tightening things down overly


Sorry for the typos I cut my thumb and therefore can't type on my phone so I have to dictate that it's virtually impossible to go back into remedy all the errors I think the point should be clear enough despite some bad substitutions tenses and a lack of punctuation
 

Tamer El-Meehy

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Hey guys, I just wanted to let you know something else. Not only do you need to screw down the button screw a little bit more but I think one of the differences between experiences were all having has to do with how tight the top of the bottle is screwed into the 510 I screwed my name pretty tightly. The tighter it is, the more smooth the button press action is, because it works on the lever /seesaw system.

So for those of you finding it a little crunchy or inconsistent or maybe some slop side to side or it seems to catch before it fires try screw the bottle top in a little bit more. Do be careful though because it feels to me like if you overdid it you could strip it pretty easily that said I went pretty tight on my end button action definitely smooth out a great deal. I know this seems like a really basic stuff but I think the nature of the design means that the only difference they can really exists how tight the assembly is on the top

Failing a button tightening or Bottletop tightening working my next step would be to remove the lever plate and bend it just a hair more which would apply more pressure to book and accomplish the same as tightening things down overly


Sorry for the typos I cut my thumb and therefore can't type on my phone so I have to dictate that it's virtually impossible to go back into remedy all the errors I think the point should be clear enough despite some bad substitutions tenses and a lack of punctuation

Ditto...the bottle top needs to be tightly - and carefully - screwed to the 510, otherwise it won't fire consistently. Sorry about your thumb..this sucks when you're texting!
 
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Layzee Vaper

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OK. Managed to get mine working as it should.
I suspect the issue was the screw that makes contact with the battery top.

I removed it and replaced it with an M4 nylon screw to act as a spacer between the contact leaf and the button assembly. The positive leaf spring now contacts the battery directly instead of the screw head. I have also put some heat shrink round the leaf spring just leaving either end uncovered.

No problems at all since I have done this. Fires every time.

IF YOU DECIDE TO DO THIS THEN MAKE SURE YOU CHECK FOR SHORTS WITH A METER BEFORE FIRING THE mod!

I had tried all of the other suggestions before doing this, everything appeared to be clean and tight and making good connections. This was a last resort before binning the mod!
 
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h00ligan

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Yeah we really cannot bury the first few times you use it if you're not familiar with very sensitive mech mods

I'm a little annoyed given the silver one is damaged that I didn't wait a few more days in my stupidity I should've waited to see what came out by today eldest has just released a pico bottom feed mod and it's $17.50 right now and heaven gifts on preorder

http://www.heavengifts.com/50W-Eleaf-Pico-Squeeze-MOD.html


Coupon code AHG25

With atomizer $11 more. $8 with coupon

$24 and the regular isick pico is great


I have a feeling by end of business today we're going to see a lot of bottom feed mods arrive
 

Train2

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I preordered that pico squeeze too.
But I will say - it looks a LOT like a Kanger Dripbox, with just a difference in the battery compartment.
And the Dripbox is certainly a nice $30 investment - but it's showing signs of a glitchy button, and in THAT case, the button doesn't seem at all repairable. If I had to guess, I'd guess the Coppervape substantially outlasts either the Pico or the Dripbox - because of electronics...




Yeah we really cannot bury the first few times you use it if you're not familiar with very sensitive mech mods

I'm a little annoyed given the silver one is damaged that I didn't wait a few more days in my stupidity I should've waited to see what came out by today eldest has just released a pico bottom feed mod and it's $17.50 right now and heaven gifts on preorder

http://www.heavengifts.com/50W-Eleaf-Pico-Squeeze-MOD.html


Coupon code AHG25

With atomizer $11 more. $8 with coupon

$24 and the regular isick pico is great


I have a feeling by end of business today we're going to see a lot of bottom feed mods arrive
 

JohnnyDill

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The key to making it fire perfectly, in my experience, is to make sure that the contact screw touches the battery positive FLAT when pressed. Both of my CV's always fire perfectly and consistently this way. My mods with fancy silver contacts will fire inconsistent as well if not adjusted correctly. -Hope this helps. :)
 
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jcash74

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The key to making it fire perfectly, in my experience, is to make sure that the contact screw touches the battery positive FLAT when pressed. Both of my CV's always fire perfectly and consistently this way. My mods with fancy silver contacts will do fire inconsistent as well if not adjusted correctly. -Hope this helps. :)
I've just been trying to keep the firing screw tight. This is my 1st mech so if this is wrong, please let me know.

stand up and fight for your right to vape!
 

h00ligan

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Hey heads up on he aluminum and scratches. Remember mine arrived with AN AWFUL gouge. If you ran s finger nail it would just fall in and stop. So gouge not scratch.

Well this is about three minutes with a scotch brite and a quick pass with a sunshine cloth. It's not perfect. If I was patient I could do better. But this mod is going to scratch and scuff like crazy.

Anyway. Before and after. So very easy to repair as much as you'd want to given it will just scratch and scuff again due to the raw finish.

I'm posting 2 shots if the refinish. . Understand I'm shooting lighting to show the finish. Which means that it looks much worse in photos than real life. In real life then fix is basically indistinguishable.

Also this is my first time ever trying to fix any finish issues. I use sunshine cloths for s very quick pass on mods that get a bit kire than surface dirty. But they're mildly abrasive (not like cape cod which will turn brush to shine in a couple passes by hand.

The sunshine cloth after five is back s more professional look than is it a scotch brite pad. But I'm very new to this. Maybe others have better ways.


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I hit the fire screw with the sunshine cloth too. It seemed fine before but while I had one out I figured why not. It seems a bit more responsive but I concede that may be completely in my head since I knew I'd polished it Maybe I'll try a blind test against the untouched brass.


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Word to potential customers. I reported the issue to them and they've actively dodged replying to me. Like I saw the messages get read days in a row and nothing. So don't count in any real support.

Maybe they're they busy with orders. But when you read my message and don't reply. Then two more in two days and still don't. I feel it's dodging n
 
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h00ligan

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Best ScotchBrite to use #7448

Thanks I grabbed what was in Amazon as in limited to online shopping right now. Where do you get the different numbers ? Mine don't seem to have them. But this is what I got. Extraneous hair provided by my helper.

1f9ec4d1eb37ee02f58eb1e2523450a0.jpg



Also the sunshine cloth after as stated returns some finish. Takes off the tiny scuffs leaving the directional which brush properly. The two passed with the sunshine cloth made s big difference.


Do you think it didn't turn out well? I mean that damage was substantial. I think it worked pretty well. In person when not trying to angle the light to show all flaws it's pretty similar tk new condition I had thought. But maybe you see issues with it ?

I have the pnb kit from GP For tube mods bit their videos snow sandpaper of various levels. I also have a Dremel wed bought for pumpkin carving but I have no idea what all the tips do with it or how to use them.

Thanks for he info.


I also wanted to correct my statement that the button was metal. It isn't. It's plastic you can ever so slightly sand it down (or scrape lightly with w/pocket knife) just around the oval edges to take away the crunchiness of the button.

I am shocked nobody making mods sorted it out so that camera soft release buttons could be used. I'm considering tying to find some kind of nut or something to allow me to replace the plastic button with something custom. Anyone done that ? Some kind of formal to female with proper threading should work tomalley soft release buttons to work but there would have to be a secondary aspect for locking.

I actually have s pretty good idea (I think) but I need tk get tons hardware store and figure out the sizing and threading.
 
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