Coppervape BF Mod

[oplholik]

Plated brass? Guess I'd better stock up on the replacement hardware kit just in case. That would definitely be a weak point with all the loosening and tightening on that part.
I suppose it would be useless contacting FT to see if they could get the mfgr. to make up a hardware kit with ss pins, maybe a v3 kit?

 

[Train2]

I think it's worth telling them.
Those of us who bought direct can find a contact, and we can comment on fasttech, and could, perhaps link to this message:


Dear Coppervape.
Thanks for the Coppervape mechanical squonking mod.
We like it.
There are many people here in this thread who OFTEN get asked "what should I buy as my first squonker".
And we have been recommending the Coppervape mod, and telling them where they can buy it.

But now, several people have a broken "pin" - the metal tube for liquid to the 510 connection. It is too weak, and should be made of Stainless Steel.
It is good that there is a "kit" for parts - we've all bought that. But it is still not a quality part and will break again.
Can you please revise the next batch of mods, and issue a new version of the parts kit - with a stainless steel replacement?

Thank you, sincerely,
A bunch of Coppervape customers.

 

[oplholik]

I did put a comment on their FB page, so will see if anything comes of that. @Train2 did you send that to Coppervape? Looks good.

 

[Train2]

Not yet - but I will!

I did put a comment on their FB page, so will see if anything comes of that. @Train2 did you send that to Coppervape? Looks good.

OK, now I sent it.
To the address I paypal'd for my first one...

 

[benley73]

4£ for 16 coils

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk

 

[Layzee Vaper]

If they were to do a V3 I would think a proper adjustable stainless 510 similar to the ones on the REO would be worth while. It makes swapping the atty much easier rather than using shims or modifying each atty to fit.

Some form of optional and removable short circuit protection (fuse or hot spring) would also be a nice.

 

[puffon]

I suspect the slotted CV 510 pin is catching on the atty 510, snapping the pin at the weak point.
An atty that also has a cross slot 510 pin , could make it worse.
Just a guess.
It is hard to beat a bullet proof adjustable REO 510. (which china did clone, when they cloned the REO)

 

[zoiDman]

I suspect the slotted CV 510 pin is catching on the atty 510, snapping the pin at the weak point.
An atty that also has a cross slot 510 pin , could make it worse.
Just a guess.
It is hard to beat a bullet proof adjustable REO 510. (which china did clone, when they cloned the REO)

I'm wondering if the cause Isn't so much on the Atty side, but is more on the Bottle Side?

If the Bottle is Slightly Smaller than the Bottle Cavity in the Mod (which it kinda Needs to be), then every time the Bottle is Squonked, are we putting a Perpendicular Force on the threaded end of the Mods 510 Pin?

And if there is any Play in the Mod's 510 Peek Insulator, this would allow Strain to accumulate where the 510 Pin Can't move when an RDA is attached.

Whatever the Cause is, a Stainless Steel 510 Pin seems like the way to go.

 

[oplholik]

Has anyone watched Todd's review?
He talks a little bit about movement of the bottle if it's not tight. The movement comes from the the switch being pressed. This could I think have something to do with it breaking. He speaks of this at about 10:44 in the vid.

 

[muzichead]

It is hard to beat a bullet proof adjustable REO 510. (which china did clone, when they cloned the REO)

Yeah, but they cloned it in a standard threading, (R-L), instead of reverse threading, (L-R), like Rob eventually wound up with!!

 

[oplholik]

I have checked out FT's forum for any mention of the pin breaking on these, and didn't see anything. Seems like if it were a common problem, some talk of it would be there.

 

[puffon]

Yeah, but they cloned it in a standard threading, (R-L), instead of reverse threading, (L-R), like Rob eventually wound up with!!

Yep, probably didn't want to have reverse thread, vented allen screws, custom made.

 

[TheWestPole]

I'm wondering if the cause Isn't so much on the Atty side, but is more on the Bottle Side?

If the Bottle is Slightly Smaller than the Bottle Cavity in the Mod (which it kinda Needs to be), then every time the Bottle is Squonked, are we putting a Perpendicular Force on the threaded end of the Mods 510 Pin?

And if there is any Play in the Mod's 510 Peek Insulator, this would allow Strain to accumulate where the 510 Pin Can't move when an RDA is attached.

Whatever the Cause is, a Stainless Steel 510 Pin seems like the way to go.

I agree. Looks to me like a tension/shear break not a compression break.

For those who really want a SS pin, remember, the Fatdaddy M2.5 squonk pin works. I've tried it. Upside is it's stronger and has a 1.2 mm juice hole vs. 1.0 mm for stock. Downside is the head is thicker. Your atty will stick up over 1 mm unless you grind it down. Otherwise, no other dimension needs to be altered.

 

[TheWestPole]

Has anyone watched Todd's review?
He talks a little bit about movement of the bottle if it's not tight. The movement comes from the the switch being pressed. This could I think have something to do with it breaking. He speaks of this at about 10:44 in the vid.

I saw this way back. His issue was an undertightened bottle cap and iffy firing. If it's too loose, poor electrical contact. Too tight, you might fracture the pin at it's weakest point.

Firm finger tip tightening only, friends.

 

[zoiDman]

I agree. Looks to me a tension break not a compression break.

For those who really want a SS pain, the Fatdaddy M2.5 squonk pin works. I've tried it. Upside is it's stronger and has a 1.2 mm juice hole vs. 1.0 mm for stock. Downside is the head is thicker. Your atty will stick up 1 mm plus unless you grind it down. Otherwise, not other dimension needs to be altered.


View attachment 626115

I imagine that the 1.2mm Pin Hole /1.2mm RDA Hole make Quite a difference in the Squonk Pressure verses a 1.0mm/1.0mm or even a 1.0mm/1.2mm.

 

[puffon]

I agree. Looks to me a tension break not a compression break.

For those who really want a SS pin, remember, the Fatdaddy M2.5 squonk pin works. I've tried it. Upside is it's stronger and has a 1.2 mm juice hole vs. 1.0 mm for stock. Downside is the head is thicker. Your atty will stick up 1 mm plus unless you grind it down. Otherwise, not other dimension needs to be altered.


View attachment 626115

That's great to know.
I assume the bottle cap threading is the same.

 

[TheWestPole]

I imagine that the 1.2mm Pin Hole /1.2mm RDA Hole make Quite a difference in the Squonk Pressure verses a 1.0mm/1.0mm or even a 1.0mm/1.2mm.

Yes, it does. Especially with thick juice. That's what I was testing out.

I've since drilled out all the CV pins to 1.2 mm. I'd prefer 1.5 mm, but the CV pins are only 2.5 mm and there just isn't the thickness. Wish they were 3 mm instead.

Luckily haven't broken a pin so far, even though they were obviously weakened a bit by the drilling.

 

[TheWestPole]

That's great to know.
I assume the bottle cap threading is the same.

Yup. The FD pin will work without alteration. That's how I used it when testing. If you don't have the tools to neatly make the head thinner, you can always leave as is and put a spacer under your atty. Something like this.

$3.52 Replacement POM Heat Insulation Gasket for Atomizers (5-Pack) 5-pack at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[TheWestPole]

Or this.

$2.64 Protective Silver Plated Brass Ring for Atomizers (5-Pack) 5-pack - anti-leakage and gurgle / for 22-22.5mm dia. atomizer at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[oplholik]

Or if you are using an 0-16, get one of the beauty rings for it.
I just might get some of those FD pins ordered.