Coppervape BF Mod

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b.m.

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Me too. Dennis Cruz is pretty much a one man operation. I feel personally invested in his health. For now I'm scavenging FDV hardware from gear I'm not actively using. :unsure:
I agree.From what i have heard,he had a stroke a few months back,and that is when his son started taking care of the business for him.Now,hearing there are issues again with the orders,i hope he hasn't ran into more health issues that possibly pulled his son from the business to take care of more serious stuff.
 

Houndstooth

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The CV has led me down the squonking rabbit hole. It seems like there's no going back. I had my Pico and Merlin Mini dialed in to my excitement and haven't used it once since acquiring this fine piece.

My Shen Ray Hadaly finally arrived and it blows the Narda away in my opinion. Perfect top-cap fitment too. Therein I'm curious if I can back out the 510 pin (think it's called something else on the CV) on the mod? There's a tiny gap where the Hadaly meets the deck. I can remedy this with a protective juice ring I have only when I install it the pin isn't making contact. Thoughts?
 
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KentA

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There's a tiny gap where the Hadaly meets the deck. I can remedy this with a protective juice ring I have only when I install it the pin isn't making contact. Thoughts?
There should be 2 small holes under the 510 that will accept a pair of little blue screwdrivers. Turn them counter clockwise.
 
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Houndstooth

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There should be 2 small holes under the 510 that will accept a pair of little blue screwdrivers. Turn them counter clockwise.
Thanks, Kent. Do you mean on the RDA or the mod? I loosened the bf pin and the post starts wobbling. Perhaps both? (I actually want to use this juice ring for aesthetics)
 

Houndstooth

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On the mod.

I'm a less sophisticated student of aesthetics & that little gap doesn't bother me.

Ha, how gauche of you. :D I'm actually working on a whole theme color wise so the juice ring color compliments it.

So you're suggesting dismantling the underside of 510 in order to get to these if I'm understanding you correctly?
 

KentA

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So you're suggesting dismantling the underside of 510 in order to get to these if I'm understanding you correctly?
I'm not suggesting you dismantle the CV to get rid of the gap, :lol: but if you want to get rid of the gap you can take it apart & fiddle with those little holes.
:danger: Do you have a spare parts kit? It may be good insurance against a "damit".
 

zoiDman

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The CV has led me down the squonking rabbit hole. It seems like there's no going back. I had my Pico and Merlin Mini dialed in to my excitement and haven't used it once since acquiring this fine piece.

My Shen Ray Hadaly finally arrived and it blows the Narda away in my opinion. Perfect top-cap fitment too. Therein I'm curious if I can back out the 510 pin (think it's called something else on the CV) on the mod? There's a tiny gap where the Hadaly meets the deck. I can remedy this with a protective juice ring I have only when I install it the pin isn't making contact. Thoughts?

If you don't want to Alter your CV, you could just Shim the gap of your RDA with a thin piece of plastic.

Something like this...

$6.40 Replacement POM Heat Insulation Gasket for Atomizers (10-Pack) 10-pack - black at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Only Thinner (probably) and Cheaper (Free if you Cut something you have around the house).
 
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Houndstooth

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If you don't want to Alter your CV, you could just Shim the gap of your RDA with a thin piece of plastic.

Something like this...

$6.40 Replacement POM Heat Insulation Gasket for Atomizers (10-Pack) 10-pack - black at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Only Thinner (probably) and Cheaper (Free if you Cut something you have around the house).

We're on the same page. I'm trying to accommodate this which is fairly thin. It's not making the connection though.

32667666755_5f0c6cc3bd_c.jpg
 

ST Dog

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My plan was to completely remove the lock feature and make the button top smaller too.

That's if my 2nd attempt to purchase actually makes it to my house.

Made it back home and 2 CV mods waiting on me.

Quick look and defeating the button lock will just require a minute with a Dremel to remove the ears on the button.

Making the button smaller should be just as easy. Chuck in a drill an shave it down.

Making the battery load from the top will take a bit more to prevent shorts. Not a lot of play either as my button-top batteries short out the switch. But those are mainly for a different mod anyway and I have better flat-tops to use in the CV.
 

zoiDman

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We're on the same page. I'm trying to accommodate this which is fairly thin. It's not making the connection though.

32667666755_5f0c6cc3bd_c.jpg

If you can get that going, I'd poke around the house with a Caliper in my hand and see if you can Find some Thin Plastic Sheet.

Things like el Cheap-O Plastic 3 Ring Binders have been know to hold Hidden purposes.
 

Train2

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Mod guard?
It's a simple little black plastic disk
- VERY thin. Could use 2 if you need to fill a gap.
I like them when I'm concerned about a little leak onto a wood mod, or people who just want to prevent atty swirl scratches on a fancy mod...
$1.95 for five of them, and they have a few sizes.
Paying shipping, might want to combine with ordering some wick or wire or batteries - KidneyPuncher's good for that stuff.

KP_Mod_Guard_WM__17513.1433445101.1280.1280.jpg

We're on the same page. I'm trying to accommodate this which is fairly thin. It's not making the connection though.

32667666755_5f0c6cc3bd_c.jpg
 

Painter_

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My coppervape arrived yesterday. 11 days from China to Cleveland.

Thanks to @KentA I was able to remove the gap from under my atomizer. While I had it apart I too the opportunity to really clean it up. I was wondering why it is so hard to squonk, now I know, that hole is really tiny. Now to clean it up again and put it in the box for the vapepocalypse.
 
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