Thanks for the bottle suggestion. Do you have a link for the proper FD pin?
Coppervape BF Mod
- Thread starter Layzee Vaper
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
If you are just getting BF Pins, I think the Shipping is like 3 Bucks.
And you just Click the Check on the Check Out Using PapyPal button.
Those are the Ones I got. They Work Great.
The Others might be Fine also. But I Can't say.
They are supposed to be 2.5mm.
Haven't tried to use mine yet tho.
Don't think they are long enough for the CV.
Last edited:
I'm not sure if those are Long Enough. But for 3 Bucks, I would Include them on an Order.
In the reviews it's stated they are M2.5 ~5.5mm long.
That would fit my Stumpy clone, but it's the only atty I have that's M2.5.
The head would have to be filed down, same as the FDV pins.
Last edited:
The FD pins are ss, stronger, and a little bigger feed hole.
I found the shop but what is the name of the item I am looking for?
Ya I think I will get them just in case, theres also these ones which are for the goon lp but they may work with other rda's: $2.25 Replacement Brass Contact Screw for GOON LP Atomizer (5-Pack) 5-pack - w/ allen keys at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
On a side note, has anyone been able to remove the logo from the aluminum or brass CV?
When I first got it, and taking it all apart to clean, I kept looking at that teeny, tiny feed pin, and that little bitty feed hole, and thinking that, that isn't gonna feed anything, or I'm gonna wear out my arthritic fingers trying to push juice thru that. I was surprised how easy it squonked my 60/40 juice, not bad at all for it's size.
Tried the copper tape method that was used on the old hades clone mod, and it seems the coppervape mod hits better now, I do not have one of them 510 voltmeter testers to see if there is an actual decrease in voltage drop but vaping this thing definitely seems to hit harder. There was a vid on youtube where a guy tested the method on his brass hades clone with the 510 voltmeter and it showed an improvement.
This is the tape used you only need about 100mm length and you should be able to get it at any hardware store:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/COPPER-BAR...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N556HW0X68YXZ1ZMJ5J2
This is the tape used you only need about 100mm length and you should be able to get it at any hardware store:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/COPPER-BAR...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N556HW0X68YXZ1ZMJ5J2
I don't understand-- the sticky side of the tape crosses the positive end of the battery from the negative body.
Won't there be a short the 1st time you push the button?
I don't think it would Short because the Positive Anode is still isolated from the Mod Body.
I just question How Much better this Tape should make the Mod Work?
Actully, looking close I think it's just improving the contact between the battery cover (where it threads) and the rest of the body... I actually wondered about that connect point, and have cleaned the batter cover threads and DeOxIt coated them for the same basic purpose.
Had to check in and thank zoiDman for the recommendation and links to the Narda , " WOW" is all i can say , what an amazing BF RDA . Waiting on my NoName NoToy to come in any day now .
I think i am preferring 22 mm toppers instead of the 16 and 18 mm but still experimenting.
I think i am preferring 22 mm toppers instead of the 16 and 18 mm but still experimenting.
I really don't understand a lot of this stuff but would putting copper just on the middle round positive nub that sticks up in the middle of the actual screw on cap make a difference in your opinion?
- Status
Similar threads
