Could this have been what it is all along?

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BillyWJ

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Is it possible that, without short "cut-off" that I was vaping just a ton of shorts (because of pushed-down center pins, loose 510 connections, ect ect) that were "giving me vapor" but just gunking up my coils instantly?

No.

A "short" means that the electrical circuit is broken. If the device had a short, you would get nothing. The MVP would not fire.

The MVP works correctly, if you put a broken circuit on it, it will not fire.

All evidence, that I can translate, is that the liquid you are using is thick and clogs coils fast, which is not uncommon. I suggest you try a new liquid.
 

BillyWJ

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Well, I'm a bit of a fan of VG, so well... haha, maybe the gunking is normal.

I've actually never had a straight-PG juice.

Could be all my problems right there :blink:.

(Then again, I have a recent theory where, since pre-wound coils are not pre-torched by Chinese factories, and since I don't pre-fire before vaping because it transfers those oils to the silica if you do and causes a bad vape, my theory is that these oils do not vaporize off quickly when I vape, and only vaporize slowly, which gives me a " mixed organic+metallic socky taste", and then, when lots of gunk builds up, it forms hotspots that heat up both the coil oil and gunk more severely, causing a rapid burn off of this oil, which is why I never taste a truly strong metallic taste until well after some organic tasting gunk forms on my coils.... this explains the "harshness" of a dry hit, an effect no user on ECF has ever been able to point a scientific explaination to, as silica doesn't have that harsh taste when heated or vaped by itself with an oxidized, torched coil.)

But the short-out theory could explain why I'm getting those effects so instantly.

This would be another one of your "theories" that is incorrect.
 

BillyWJ

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Well, see, the ohm checker on my MVP2 goes from 3.0, to 2.4. to 2.0, randomly, all on what's supposed to be a 2.0 dual-coil iClear 30 head. Happens randomly, really. Has happened several times already. It may have already diminished the performance of my battery and iClear 30 (whick gunked up too fast IMO) and that's what I'm scared of! I just bought this thing, I hope it's not as ruined as my Spinner seems to be!

And I've tested and found that some types of shorts (on RDA's) read extremely high ohms, where some ones (rare ones, really) read very low. I totally did not ever know about this issue, nor did the shop tell me this!

I've had an MVP for almost 3 months now, and I've never seen it display this behavior. I also have the 2.0 iClear that comes with it, and I cannot get the MVP to do what you are claiming, even unscrewing it while checking the ohms.

It's rather odd and suspicious that every piece of gear you discuss here does things that never happens to anyone else.
 

bluecat

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I've had an MVP for almost 3 months now, and I've never seen it display this behavior. I also have the 2.0 iClear that comes with it, and I cannot get the MVP to do what you are claiming, even unscrewing it while checking the ohms.

It's rather odd and suspicious that every piece of gear you discuss here does things that never happens to anyone else.

My SVD does that. I had bought an IGO W and checked the ohms on a mm then when I went to check it on the svd, I got non and then I would get 2.4 then 7.9 and all over. After lots of rebuilding, I finally started pulling the pin up on the SVD and tapping down the center post on the IGO W.

I believe my issue is the seal got broken somehow on the center pin. Maybe it is an Innokin issue and their 510 connections. I finally got it to where the SVD would read the ohms correctly. Someday I think I need to do the center pin fix. I am sure I jammed a 510 on there while frustrated with the IGO W.
 

catalinaflyer

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A "short" means that the electrical circuit is broken. If the device had a short, you would get nothing. The MVP would not fire.

A "Short" means the circuit is closed with Zero or near Zero resistance.

(Very BASIC Description) A piece of copper wire 2 inches long is a Short! That same two inch piece of wire cut in the middle making two 1" pieces and not touching is a "Broken" circuit.

Your statement that a short is a broken circuit are completely opposite. A short allows electricity to flow freely, a broken circuit means no electricity flows.
 

UnclePsyko

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Goodnews, could you please upload a picture of your MVP 2 and spinner?
Thanks!

Yes, please do, GoodNews.

Better yet... Launch the online video reviews already! It would be WAAAAAAY easier to diagnose all the issues if we could see what the heck is going on, watch your technique, see the condition of the equipment with some video and/or pics instead of long and confusing explanations.

If you seriously want our help, PLEASE... even after I told myself I wouldn't get involved...

 
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Topwater Elvis

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Goodnews,
The MVPII is a protected APV, it is not known to be a highly accurate 'ohm meter', fine for testing coils 1.5 or above.
It doesn't sound like it is charging correctly.

One of the main points to owning a protected PV/APV is that it will not fire a coil/atty that is outside the protection circuitry's design parameters.
It also has an amp limit, when a power level is selected that in combination with the coil resistance exceeds the amp limit it either automatically reduces power to a 'safe' level or won't fire.

The coil gunk build up is from flavorings & sweeteners to a lesser extent vg, this build up is a normal by-product of these compounds being vaporized.
Some flavoring & sweeteners used do not vaporize until they reach the very upper heat range of the equipment most vapers use. AKA low quality juices.

How fast the coil gunks up is dependent the flavorings, sweeteners, colorants and suspended particles in the liquid combined with wicking ability (or wick over saturation/flooding), airflow and using enough power to vaporize the juice rapidly instead heating it slowly with too little power.
This causes a build up of layers of un vaporized juice, when the coil gets hot enough this caramelized goo coating your coil finally starts to burn off or if wet enough vaporizes producing bad tastes.

Dark, thick, sweet, artificially colored, low quality or liquids with high levels of suspended particulates speed up the goo building process as does mismatching power to coil.
Both issues at the same time = rapid coil goo build up. Complete lack of any understanding of how vaping stuff works = almost instantaneous goo.

Also, as long as you continue to smoke random odd/off/weird tastes when vaping should be expected.
 
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Thrasher

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Owned a new mod and in less then a week it doesnt work right lol!

i try so hard everyday to go my own way and just read the posts but - just wow on this one - im sure goodnews will come and pwn me again (as he once stated about my knowledge).

but I have to say scanning his posts while having a cup of coffee in the morning just makes the day that much better. I think ZEN was talking about him the other day when discussing why he made a DNA/regulated device.

good luck GN - you ground breaking revolutionary, you.

in all seriousness I use your posts as a point of discussion with newer vapors quite frequently - but probably not for the reasons you think................................................. have fun all, keep the Rolaids handy and don't bang your head too much.
 

KenD

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On my SVD I've noticed that if I have a sudden broken circuit (once popping a coil by stupidly forgetting to throttle down from 15w - and switching to volts - when dry firing it, and once when one of the legs on my RBA came loose) I need to "reset" it. Otherwise it won't allow me to change volts/watts. Has anyone noticed anything similar on the MVP (or any other vv/vw device for that matter)?

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
 

Diogenes

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When charging, it also only stays red for a few seconds, then orange for a few seconds, then to green and stays there. This wouldn't seem to be normal if the battery had full power storage and was able to store power through all those zones, and, just as well, put out proper power in those zones.

Any help?

I'm not sure if anyone has answered this question, I'm just starting to read the thread and am anticipating long-winded posts. Anywho, are you pulling the MVP off of charging when the light is green? If so, that is the problem. When the device is fully charged, the green light will go off. You say that a charge barely lasts a day with mild vaping, there is a problem. Mine, I hit that thing hardcore, and it lasts at least two days, three if I'm not chain-vaping. The device will let you know when it's fully charged.
 

Diogenes

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But the short-out theory could explain why I'm getting those effects so instantly.

It is not a short-out, or a short cut out. It is short circuit protection. What that means is if your clearo has a short, the MVP will not fire. Repeat, it WILL NOT FIRE. Also, the MVP does have a cut-off timer, which IIRC is 10 seconds, which means you cannot take puffs that go longer than 10 seconds without pushing the button again to reset the timer.
 

Diogenes

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I've had an MVP for almost 3 months now, and I've never seen it display this behavior. I also have the 2.0 iClear that comes with it, and I cannot get the MVP to do what you are claiming, even unscrewing it while checking the ohms.

It's rather odd and suspicious that every piece of gear you discuss here does things that never happens to anyone else.

I'm not saying GN is right, ok, but I've noticed on my MVP that when I screw in a new atty, it will read maybe 0.2ohms higher or lower. I fire it, and recheck, and we're spot-on. The only time when I've seen the ohms jump like what GN is saying is when I've flooded the connector, but then after I fire the atty, (with the flooded connector), the ohms get spot-on. But this is a once in a blue moon type of occurrence for me.
 
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