Customizing a EHPro KFL+ V2

[Shootist]

I have 2 of these and tonight I set out to wrap a few coils using the tool I made. So after each coil wrap I would mount it on one of the KF's and check the ohms.
I notice that the center air shaft screw came out of the positive terminal block quit far.



and the top gap between the negative terminal and the positive terminal black was very close. Both of those things meant I had to left the coil quit high for the wire from the negative side clear the center screw.



After looking at several images of different models of KF's, Clones and Real ones, I notice that the hcigar units have that center screw flush with the top of the positive terminal black.

So I set out to file down that center screw so it was flush and then I chamfered the positive and negative terminal block edges where they met. I made a larger chamfer on the positive block.





So now I should be able to get the coil closer to the deck of those blocks without having to worry about a short happening.

I used a small set of files and a diamond nail file.

I think I also cleared up some of the whistling by using a drill bit to clean out the air hole in the body. When I looked down through it I could see some chips from where the air adjustment screw comes through.

Hopes this helps others to clean up there KFL+ V2.

 

[suspectK]

You can't get it too close to deck...I never experimented with my eh pros, but I know you get flooding and/or leaking when you get within 1mm of air hole with a typical horizontal coil.

If you decide to do a vertical build, you can sit the coil on the air hole, top/long leg to negative/common/ground contact.

 

[CloudZ]

Good work, looks nice but I doubt the block and pin filing had to be done. Keeping the negative leg from shorting isn't much of an issue. You did definitely make more room to work with, which is a plus if you are just getting started building on a Kayfun. With a little experience you learn how to route the negative leg perfect every time. Also, you wont want the coil only a hair away from the airflow, most go with about 1 mm or so. I don't mean to downplay your work, I am impressed with it and I can see some measure of improvement over stock.

Cleaning up the airflow is a huge positive... it sure feels good to take that first non-whistling hit

 

[Shootist]

If wasn't the positive leg I was worried about. The lead coming off the negative screw and block almost touched that center screw to the point I had to lift the coil really high so it wouldn't short out.

I'll take pictures of my other KF when I take it apart to re-wick it and do the same mod to the center screw.

The coil is about 2 mm off the hole and the top of the deck, Now. Before I did the filing of the center screw I had to raise it more than 2 mm off that center screw so the negative lead wouldn't come close to it. That made it 4+ mm off the deck and also meant the juice had to wick that much higher to get to the coil.

 

[Shootist]

Here's an update on the second EHPro KFL+ V2 I have.

This one seemed to have the screw even higher than the other one.



This is after I filed it down.



And with the coil attached.



And firing.



I have a HCigar version on order. We'll see how that one comes.

 

[weinner]

I think the air hole is designed like that to prevent the liquid that comes of the wick onto the deck from going down it.

 

[Shootist]

I think the air hole is designed like that to prevent the liquid that comes of the wick onto the deck from going down it.

From these images of the HCigar model the screw is flush to the top of positive terminal block.

 

[CloudZ]

From these images of the HCigar model the screw is flush to the top of positive terminal block.

Right, but due to manufacturing tolerances the tip can end up anywhere from flush to almost 1 mm above the block. If it was below the block it would probably leak down the air hole quite often. So the center of the tolerance stack up range is protruding slightly.

With your modification, if it doesn't leak, nothing to worry about