I Need Help - Seemingly Impossible Problem that Shouldn't Exist
- Thread starter DeadbeatJeff
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Yes I did the test, with a nail, and if fired right up.
It has to be the grease. Here is the unit broken down.
I really can't see how anything could be going wrong...
But if you look at the switch shaft, it has like a strange coating on it, not sure what, bu I do know that it had some sort of highly viscous grease on it when new.
Maybe the current is supposed to pass through the spring and not the shaft, but I replaced the spring with no luck... and the original spring seems fine.
Sent from the Northwest Corner, CM
Well, now that we know that it is the switch, I'm afraid I couldn't be of any more help. Simply because I don't own this mod to look at it. I've posted a thread on how to fix Maraxus Mod switch and it helped a lot of people.
Good luck to you, but I still thing that the grease is not going to save you. IMO
yeah I know... seems that that part of the shaft is not meant to conduct, that the spring is... but I've tried 4 diff steel springs with no luck.
that is just my last resort to an impossible problem, but TBH I'm abandoning it 'cause I know in my heart that the greas eon the shaft was nonconductive lithium grease
Clean off all that grease on the pin and the part it slides into, buff with some 2000 or so grit, put some Noalox on it, reinstall.To maintain your TITANIDE mod, we advise you to use only water and a clean microfiber cloth.
We also strongly advise you not to use abrasive cleaning products and all household products.
But, if your mod is very dirty, you can however use some drops of surgical spirit on a soft cloth, but before, don't forget to get the battery and the atomizer off the mod.
Before using your mod again, be sure your mod is totally dried, and that there is no marks of alcohol on or inside the mod.
We advise you to go, once a month, a slight stroke of sandpaper on the screw of the switch (on the side in contact with the battery).
We also strongly advise you not to use abrasive cleaning products and all household products.
But, if your mod is very dirty, you can however use some drops of surgical spirit on a soft cloth, but before, don't forget to get the battery and the atomizer off the mod.
Before using your mod again, be sure your mod is totally dried, and that there is no marks of alcohol on or inside the mod.
We advise you to go, once a month, a slight stroke of sandpaper on the screw of the switch (on the side in contact with the battery).
I cleaned the grease off a long time ago, and I've only ever used PGA to clean it, which was of course my first move a couple weeks ago.
The contact between the screw and the battery is not the problem. It's apparently the spring, and I suppose the pack of steel springs i have are all no good either.
The contact between the screw and the battery is not the problem. It's apparently the spring, and I suppose the pack of steel springs i have are all no good either.
Last edited:
I don't think it's counting on the spring for power transferring. That happens in some cases in some mods and is unfortunate not really intended in most cases. . .
Well, there are two possibilities:
(1) The spring has failed in some way, and the springs I got from the hardware store (steel as well) are all bunk for some reason.
(2)I actually do need a conductive grease, which seems silly in itself, as the shaft and collar are VERY tightly and smoothly together.
Every once in a while it will work though, and when it does the bottom gets hot so it's something going on down there. It hits really nice rt now with a nail instead of the switch.
Well, there are two possibilities:
(1) The spring has failed in some way, and the springs I got from the hardware store (steel as well) are all bunk for some reason.
(2)I actually do need a conductive grease, which seems silly in itself, as the shaft and collar are VERY tightly and smoothly together.
Every once in a while it will work though, and when it does the bottom gets hot so it's something going on down there. It hits really nice rt now with a nail instead of the switch.
If one side of your spring pushes against the metal body of your Mod and the other side against the brass body of your switch button. Then replacing your spring with nice and beefy Silver Coated Beryllium-Copper string will fix your issue. I can almost guarantee that.
Have you charged the battery back to full charge?
Have you cleaned all the Mods connection/contact points?
Remember the battery +/- are contact points also.
DID YOU TRY ANOTHER BATTERY?
If you have the Atomizer on the mod, the coil out and read:
MOD Body to ATTY Positive and get 3.xxv there is most definitely NOT an open connection. You CANNOT Read through an OPEN.
You CAN Read VOLTAGE in a Battery that will no longer DRIVE a Load.
I have seen first hand, people replacing starters because their battery read over 12v only to later go buy a battery so the car would start.
This is the only scenario that makes any sense to me, since the battery voltage sags to 1V under load. The battery is simply worn out.
Buff All contact parts and Replace the battery.
You can always use a little Noalox once you have it firing.
You can always use a little Noalox once you have it firing.
Ok people... not helpful to not read the thread. I have tried multiple batteries. Also it hits like a train if I replace the switch with a screwdriver shorted against the negative terminal and the inside of the mod body.
Noalox on the shaft did not help; replacing the spring does not help.
The switch shaft conducts fine... just not when assembled.
The switch shaft conducts fine... just not when assembled.
Shaft and Tube it slides in are NOT making contact. I have a feeling you have not found a way to polish inside the tube.
Honestly, like you said, you are getting worn by this. You are starting to grasp at straws when a Break and good second look is warranted.
Part to Part to Part conductivity. No exceptions. Find the degraded section, correct and I'll bet you will be happy placing it back in rotation.
Edit: How far is the throw? Does the button strike the tube base?
Last edited:
The problem is definitely the switch.
When it fits fire it gets hot, right there, where it gets hot is the problem. For sure I'd bet my left nut, it's getting hot BC it's barely working, that's your problem, I don't own one of those of I'd e able to tell you, but whatever it takes, get that straightened out and your money.
When it fits fire it gets hot, right there, where it gets hot is the problem. For sure I'd bet my left nut, it's getting hot BC it's barely working, that's your problem, I don't own one of those of I'd e able to tell you, but whatever it takes, get that straightened out and your money.
I would tend to agree, but I just don't get how it was working fine, but now not... and changing to a new steel spring didn't fix it.
That's an easy one: Take your existing spring and stretch it (make it longer) and see if it made a difference.
Alex, I was seeing it a similar way. It seems to be a mod/rda issue with electrical isolation, meaning an insulator is having problems.
Check all your insulators and try reading it again.
Check all your insulators and try reading it again.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
