damit! (can I say that here?), I'm getting confused again. More questions...

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pizza2me

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Maybe the rumble you're looking for is the gurgling/popping we're talking about. ???? I kinda miss the snap, crackle, pop from my Cartos, but I'll get used to it for the vape.

OK. Next question. The air hole. On RSST I hear I'll get more vapor if I drill out the hole a bit. buy I think I heard I'll lose TH. I don't want to lose TH. True? TH is more important than flavor to me
 

pdib

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Got it. Thanks. I won't touch it. I'm already getting a helluva lot more vaper and TH than I was on Cartos

I'm given to understand that the air hole is a bit small on the RSST. TH can be achieved with a bigger air hole; but you want to balance a bunch of other factors. I forget what resistance you're vaping & what device (scroller is broken ;)); but when you step up your intensity (lower res.), you can drill out your air hole a bit and still have your TH come along for the ride.

edit: fixed the scroller. that's right your bumping the bottom of the Provari. You can generate more intensity at the same resistance by taking steps toward the world of micro-coils. Probably not full-out, cause you need the wicking. but you can do something like this, and get a hotter vape (I know I already mentioned scrunching; but I mean full-on/contact scrunch)







If your coils are stacked like this, and you feel more TH . . . then you can drill a little (say, 3/64" or #56-57 or 1.2mm drill bit) Also, when you stack that tight; you get a choice of location (up or down) of coil stack. Locating high (in relation to your air hole) might give you more TH, and you can drill.
 
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pizza2me

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That's not a true super_x_drifter style micro. A full-on one is also wrapped around a very small diameter (1/16" or less) wick. But yeah, they kick some ayss.

Thanks. I figured that. I've seen those tiny ones. For my purposes, do you wrap around a needle, nail or screw? Or do you do it right on the wick? And does it have to be totally scrunched? As in every loop has full contact with the one above/below it?

Jeesh!!! The totally opposite of what I've been trying to do (keep the coils separated).


Thanks!
 

pdib

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For a genisis wick, I used to establish the size of drill bit based on a loose (as big as you can get with zero friction) fit in the wick hole. I would wrap coil around that, then roll my ss mesh wick to slide easily in or out of the coil, but not slip out (or, more accurately, once in, its hard to start sliding it; but, once you start sliding it, it'll slide all day long). Often times, I would wrap wire on drill bit, remove wire, anneal with torch, put wire back on drill bit and re-assert the shape. Then, coil into genny and slip the old wicky to the coil in the genny.

It's not black and white on the scrunchin' levels. They certainly CAN touch, they don't have to. (the tighter, "touchier", the hotter it'll get, and the more you'll see glow as "white in the middle, silver on the ends") I used to do 5 wraps, hitting which ever side of the posts I needed to , to get a solid 5.






not a genny, but that's the look of the coil
 

pdib

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The section of resistance wire that runs (floats) between the coil and the pos. or neg. contact (screw) is the leg (properly, I guess, called a "lead"). Hot leg is where that part of the wire is glowing. When we see glowing wire under wet (wikicoil is wet with e-juice) conditions it will impart a bad flavor (burnt, metallic) to our vape. With Genisis style setups, people often have problems with glowing leads between wick and contact (terminal) because it takes some finesse and practice to find the right amount of tension with which to wrap the coil on the wick.
 
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pizza2me

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For a genisis wick, I used to establish the size of drill bit based on a loose (as big as you can get with zero friction) fit in the wick hole. I would wrap coil around that, then roll my ss mesh wick to slide easily in or out of the coil, but not slip out (or, more accurately, once in, its hard to start sliding it; but, once you start sliding it, it'll slide all day long). Often times, I would wrap wire on drill bit, remove wire, anneal with torch, put wire back on drill bit and re-assert the shape. Then, coil into genny and slip the old wicky to the coil in the genny.

It's not black and white on the scrunchin' levels. They certainly CAN touch, they don't have to. (the tighter, "touchier", the hotter it'll get, and the more you'll see glow as "white in the middle, silver on the ends") I used to do 5 wraps, hitting which ever side of the posts I needed to , to get a solid 5.






not a genny, but that's the look of the coil

Wow!!! Tried this the other night. Dang that is perty seeing all those coils heat up so fast!!! And Dayum its hot!! I couldn't find a good medium between burning my juice and being not warm enough. Is this where a larger air hole on the RSST would help?

Anyway, I had to run and didn't play with it as much as I would like so I just spread out the wraps and vaped on my merry way. Will definitely try again though. Thanks pdib!!!
 

pizza2me

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Wow!!! Tried this the other night. Dang that is perty seeing all those coils heat up so fast!!! And Dayum its hot!! I couldn't find a good medium between burning my juice and being not warm enough. Is this where a larger air hole on the RSST would help? Anyway, I had to run and didn't play with it as much as I would like so I just spread out the wraps and vaped on my merry way. Will definitely try again though. Thanks pdib!!!

Bringing this question back up to the top. After successully building a semi micro coil for a protank rebuild I want to try again on my RSST. Would a larger air hole possibly fix my problem of finding the "happy medium". I'm thinking quick, real hot, with lots of airflow may equal VERY good. Yes?
 

cowboy6591

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Definitely digging this RBA stuff and read to make some larger orders of wick and wire. A couple of questions. I'm currently using a provari (haven't gotten to the "get a mech phase yet").

1) I'm doing pretty good with 30g kanthal (3/4 wrap for 1.3'ish). Should I try 28g first? I've heard thicker wire will last longer, etc... And I've heard lower resistance heats up faster (of course) and I'm thinking more wick coverage is good.

2) I've been seeing "ribbon" mentioned. Is this better? The same? Or different strokes for different folks.

3) whatever I have at home, for mesh I'm going to get (I think its 400) I've never had a problem with wicking.

Ok. I might as well keep going. Somebody should really make a Q & A or RBA FAQ sticky. These basic questions are asked all the time. We noobs just have trouble finding them when we need them so we ask again. Just a simple, no chit-chat basic questions sticky.

4) is a little "hot leg" ok? Or do you want the total legs not glowing when dry?

5) I've heard of "flushing" While in RBA. I emptied tank. Ran it under water. Shook. Emptied. Dry burned. Readjusted if necessary. Is this good?

Chit! Of course when go to write this I forget the other questions I have. So I'll be back!!!!

Somebody please think about the "RBA Just the Facts Sticky"

Thanks again to all!!! Everybody here is so awesomely helpful. And I haven't touched a carto in weeks!!! Got my wife converted to (although she won't build them yet) and I have 3 more RSSTs on the way.

We need this and ALSO an "Acronym Legend" list.
 

cowboy6591

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What is anneal? (I'll look it up. Just want to see it here)

Edit.... Heating?

It's really changing the temper of the wire.
Think of a 2 inch piece of solder made of a lead like substance [not really but this will serve the point]
Now think of a 2 inch piece of guitar string.

Bend the solder and it stays bent [Low temper]
Bend the guitar string and it Bounces back to being a straight piece. [High temper].

If you heat that guitar string up to glow red and dunk it in water [cool fast method]
The guitar string will act similar to that piece of solder, it will "Stay Bent" and no longer "Bounce" back to the original shape.
Replace the word "Temper" with "Memory" Some engineers like to use the term memory instead but it's the same thing.

Kanthal wire has a fair amount of Temper [memory] but heating and "RAPID" cooling removes it and makes it take on a character similar to the piece of solder. So if you scrunch the coils or just plain wrap them the Kanthal [or any wire for that matter] will not "ARGUE" with you and stay put instead of bouncing back.

Heating slow and cooling real slow will INCREASE the temper [memory] characteristics of the wire or any metal in general. That’s how they make springs, drill bits etc... This is the opposite of what we are doing in here.:glare:

Now that explains temperament. Some people think "Anneal" may mean the willful action of making the surface of the heating coil less conductive so it wont cross short from one coil to the next when they are scrunched [touching] and laying on top of one another. I am assuming that one because I never heard an engineer say "Anneal" the metal to make it lower tempered". They just say "lower the temper".
Last but not least;
Wiki does not mention conductivity however they only mention temperament, molecular structure.

I'd rather use the term "Carbonize" for this electrical insulating procedure, then again I don't subscribe to this It's unreliable , flakey and makes for an "unstable wick to coil mate" in the long run.
Putting a ceramic sheath or Silica rope bra and or cotton wrap between the coil and wick is more my style and it insulates the heat from the coil from wasting energy on warming up your hand and not the juice. saving battery life and running low watts wile achieving the same performance.
This activity is not as common when dealing with plain silica or cotton rope wicks, but more often seen in dealing with metal mesh or wire rope [cable] wicks. I use wire rope [cable] with a thick layer of cotton because I don't trust annealing at all for insulating, I do anneal for lowering the temper of the coil however. I just call it "lowering the temper", "soften it up" and sometimes just say "Heat-Dunk, 3 or 4 times".

:toast:
 
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pizza2me

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It's really changing the temper of the wire.
Think of a 2 inch piece of solder made of a lead like substance [not really but this will serve the point]
Now think of a 2 inch piece of guitar string.

Bend the solder and it stays bent [Low temper]
Bend the guitar string and it Bounces back to being a straight piece. [High temper].

If you heat that guitar string up to glow red and dunk it in water [cool fast method]
The guitar string will act similar to that piece of solder, it will "Stay Bent" and no longer "Bounce" back to the original shape.
Replace the word "Temper" with "Memory" Some engineers like to use the term memory instead but it's the same thing.

Kanthal wire has a fair amount of Temper [memory] but heating and "RAPID" cooling removes it and makes it take on a character similar to the piece of solder. So if you scrunch the coils or just plain wrap them the Kanthal [or any wire for that matter] will not "ARGUE" with you and stay put instead of bouncing back.

Heating slow and cooling real slow will INCREASE the temper [memory] characteristics of the wire or any metal in general. That’s how they make springs, drill bits etc... This is the opposite of what we are doing in here.:glare:

Now that explains temperament. Some people think "Anneal" may mean the willful action of making the surface of the heating coil less conductive so it wont cross short from one coil to the next when they are scrunched [touching] and laying on top of one another. I am assuming that one because I never heard an engineer say "Anneal" the metal to make it lower tempered". They just say "lower the temper".
Last but not least;
Wiki does not mention conductivity however they only mention temperament, molecular structure.

I'd rather use the term "Carbonize" for this electrical insulating procedure, then again I don't subscribe to this It's unreliable , flakey and makes for an "unstable wick to coil mate" in the long run.
Putting a ceramic sheath or Silica rope bra and or cotton wrap between the coil and wick is more my style and it insulates the heat from the coil from wasting energy on warming up your hand and not the juice. saving battery life and running low watts wile achieving the same performance.
This activity is not as common when dealing with plain silica or cotton rope wicks, but more often seen in dealing with metal mesh or wire rope [cable] wicks. I use wire rope [cable] with a thick layer of cotton because I don't trust annealing at all for insulating, I do anneal for lowering the temper of the coil however. I just call it "lowering the temper", "soften it up" and sometimes just say "Heat-Dunk, 3 or 4 times".

:toast:

Wow!!! A lot of great info here cowboy! Thanks! For now I got heat and fast cool makes kanthal lose some more memory so it stays put better as you wrap. Yes?

I'll digest the rest later. And, YES, another set of good info to be in a FAQ/Q&A sticky.
 
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