Davide Mini Glassomizer coil rebuilds too airy, help please?

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millawitch

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Jul 18, 2014
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Hi all, I'm new to the forum and would like some help if possible!

I've been vaping on 2 iTaste VV v3.0 batteries and rebuilding my coils for the Davide Mini for the past few months, usually between 1.4-1.8 Ohms. Something really funny is happening and I don't know what to do! Could someone please help?

I've done a lot of research before I started making my own coils, lots of useful info from here and from the internet and Youtube in general. :D

I know that Kanger Protank and Davide have generally an airy draw, I remedied that by blocking 2 out of the 3 stock air hole and it was all fine until about a week ago.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but why are my coils too airy? :confused: I've been building micro/nano coils (all loops touching) with Kanthal A1 28g - 12 loops. Now I've redone a few, swapped coil heads in case was something wrong with the gaskets/grommets at the base, but all but 1 which I don't dare to touch are coming airy, light pull, no crackling. It's bugging me and I could not find any related posts elsewhere.

Any ideas on what might be happening? Any ideas on how to fix it?

Thanks!

millawitch


I also have a Davide (2.5 ml) and recently bought a UD AGT Titanium, but have not fiddled with the later too much yet.
 
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tchavei

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stupid question: how are your batteries?... I remember once trying 3 different attys on a setup and none was performing as I wanted until I found out that my battery was starting to worn out... it couldn't produce the kick anymore... you mention you've been vaping the same types of coils for months but now they underperforming with no apparent reason? Just an idea to let you even more confused :)

You're using iVV 3.0... should be fairly new I suppose... I knew it was a stupid question.... :ohmy:
Regards

Tony
 

millawitch

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Jul 18, 2014
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London, UK
What are you using for wicking? And are you replacing the top wick on the rebuild? Not only will insufficient wicking cause leaking problems, the less wick the more air flow.

Hi, and thanks for your reply! Forgot to mention that, hehe. I've been using boiled cotton for all my builds, no top (flavour) wick. I have little to no leaking (after I got the hang of it), mostly condensation really. I've also tried more & less cotton, apparently no difference. :?:

Could it be my battery giving up? I do like to chain vape...
 

millawitch

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Jul 18, 2014
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London, UK
Hi, and thanks for your reply! Forgot to mention that, hehe. I've been using boiled cotton for all my builds, no top (flavour) wick. I have little to no leaking (after I got the hang of it), mostly condensation really. I've also tried more & less cotton, apparently no difference. :?:

Could it be my battery giving up? I do like to chain vape...


Thinking again, with these recent looong airy draws I do get liquid in the battery sometimes, maybe it's not just condensation... But I clean it every time it happens. I actually clean my "gear" a lot, every time I top-up eliquid, if the vapour drops I go and check, sometimes they gurgle a little so I go and wipe, wipe, wipe!
 
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millawitch

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Jul 18, 2014
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London, UK
Take a tooth pick and plug a hole up and if works break the end off and keep using. If getter cover 2 holes.

I like airy draws sorry your having problems.

Hi Sthur,

I know that Kanger Protank and Davide have generally an airy draw, as said before I remedied that by blocking 2 out of the 3 stock air hole and it was all fine until about a week ago.

Thanks anyway! :)
 

Rickajho

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Thinking again, with these recent looong airy draws I do get liquid in the battery sometimes, maybe it's not just condensation... But I clean it every time it happens. I actually clean my "gear" lot, every time I top-up eliquid, if the vapour drops I go and check, sometimes they gurgle a little so I go and wipe, wipe, wipe!

You need to keep in mind that the coil - and wick - is right in the middle of entire air flow from the bottom of the coil assembly through to the end of the mouth piece. On one level the wicking is responsible for helping to keep the liquid in the chamber while feeding liquid to the coil at a controlled rate. At the same time the amount of wick has a direct impact on the air flow getting through the clearo.

Too little wick and there is insufficient partial vacuum keeping the liquid in the chamber. Then you get the complaints about sucking liquid up the mouth piece and then dumping it out into the 510 connector. And gurgling.

On the other hand, too much wick, especially when working with cotton, can result in the wick being too tight inside the coil. Cotton expands once it's wet. Then you get dry hits because the flow of liquid into the wick is actually restricted.

With your combination of leaking out the 510 connector and a draw that is too airy compared to stock coils... sounds like you need to try adding more wick in there. The easiest way to tweak and play with this would be to add the top wick back in. If/when it gets to be too much top wick that's when you will get a nasty dry cotton hit. At that point there is so much cotton it's being compressed and restricting it's ability to wick fast enough.
 

millawitch

Full Member
Jul 18, 2014
17
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London, UK
You need to keep in mind that the coil - and wick - is right in the middle of entire air flow from the bottom of the coil assembly through to the end of the mouth piece. On one level the wicking is responsible for helping to keep the liquid in the chamber while feeding liquid to the coil at a controlled rate. At the same time the amount of wick has a direct impact on the air flow getting through the clearo.

Too little wick and there is insufficient partial vacuum keeping the liquid in the chamber. Then you get the complaints about sucking liquid up the mouth piece and then dumping it out into the 510 connector. And gurgling.

On the other hand, too much wick, especially when working with cotton, can result in the wick being too tight inside the coil. Cotton expands once it's wet. Then you get dry hits because the flow of liquid into the wick is actually restricted.

With your combination of leaking out the 510 connector and a draw that is too airy compared to stock coils... sounds like you need to try adding more wick in there. The easiest way to tweak and play with this would be to add the top wick back in. If/when it gets to be too much top wick that's when you will get a nasty dry cotton hit. At that point there is so much cotton it's being compressed and restricting it's ability to wick fast enough.

Rickajho,

Thanks again for your input! :)

Humm, in my head I'm doing everything exactly right as before when this issue didn't happen, which is why I started a post in the forum to pick your brains.

Maybe there's a secret that I didn't quite grasp and is now missing from my builds? The eliquids I use are all tried and tested, I mean, they vapped great before with the exact same setup - micro/nano coil + cotton, no flavour wicks. It's not like it's underperforming when the juice gets hot or something else, iit's a brand new recoiled atty and from the start this past week it's all been meh.

Anything else you can think of?

Thanks!

milawitch
 

DoubleEwe

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Apr 1, 2014
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You can use an airflow controller: Airflow Controller

I have a Davide Glassomizer, I had the opposite problem to you (draw too tight) when I moved from eGo style battery to the iTaste VTR. The difference in the two was that the eGo has a raised and open airflow access and the VTR has a flat deck (minimal gap for airflow). With the air flow controller you can just twist it to close off the airflow access until it is how you like it. It will probably look terrible on your battery though...

You could also try making a slightly bigger coil to reduce the airflow, easiest method is to find the biggest screwdriver that still fits between the slots in the coil head and build around that.
 

millawitch

Full Member
Jul 18, 2014
17
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London, UK
Any change in ambient temperature/humidity? Those can affect viscosity, vapor rate etc... you say its the same juice... same bottle or new batch?

Just a couple of ideas. I know how frustrating this stuff can be.

Regards
Tony

Hi tchavei,

I guess it could be somehow temperature related, as we are having an extremely nice summer here in London.:2cool: But, 1 of my Mini Davide's is fine (actually a little too tight, I've got to clean it) - the one that I build about 3 or even 4 weeks ago and use with the same juice over and over. But the technique for recoiling is the same...
 

millawitch

Full Member
Jul 18, 2014
17
0
London, UK
You can use an airflow controller: Airflow Controller

I have a Davide Glassomizer, I had the opposite problem to you (draw too tight) when I moved from eGo style battery to the iTaste VTR. The difference in the two was that the eGo has a raised and open airflow access and the VTR has a flat deck (minimal gap for airflow). With the air flow controller you can just twist it to close off the airflow access until it is how you like it. It will probably look terrible on your battery though...

You could also try making a slightly bigger coil to reduce the airflow, easiest method is to find the biggest screwdriver that still fits between the slots in the coil head and build around that.

Hi DoubleEwe,

Thanks for chipping in. Although I definitely wouldn't mind having an airflow controller for them as I have for my Mega Davide (I would have to buy 4 minis), that's not the point - they were fine before I apparently started doing something wrong.

So, apart from blocking air holes or using airflow controller, any light as to different coiling methods to help this issue? :blush:

Again, I've been micro/nano coiling with cotton, 28g, resistance between 1.5-1.8 ohms.

Thanks, guys!
 

tchavei

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Jul 15, 2014
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Don't know about recoiling a davide but the kanger ones can be a bit fincky. I just rebuild a mPT3 atty and even the relative position of the coil to the slots changes everything. I had one leg of the coil protude maybe 0.2mm further around the center pin than it should and the Ohms were shifting randomly between 1.7 and 2.2 depending on how I was vaping... only after fixing it, did I get constant 1.8 and much better vapor production... maybe its your Q.C ? :)

Regards
Tony
 

millawitch

Full Member
Jul 18, 2014
17
0
London, UK
Don't know about recoiling a davide but the kanger ones can be a bit fincky. I just rebuild a mPT3 atty and even the relative position of the coil to the slots changes everything. I had one leg of the coil protude maybe 0.2mm further around the center pin than it should and the Ohms were shifting randomly between 1.7 and 2.2 depending on how I was vaping... only after fixing it, did I get constant 1.8 and much better vapor production... maybe its your Q.C ? :)

Regards
Tony

tchavei,

Q.C. you mean quality control? Hehe Humm, I think my last 4-5 had the same problem. I use an opened large paper clip to coil around, I've got now 1 set of micro screwdrivers but unfortunately I chose one that has 1 hair smaller and 1 hair bigger than the ridges to sit properly, will continue with the paper clip I guess. I did make 1 coil with a larger diameter to see if it would make a difference, same thing.

I swapped the Davide's between the batteries just to see if it could be that my main unit was powering low or something, it behaved the same, airy.

I seriously don't understand how it can be that way... Maybe I should make some more tests... And build lot's of coils...!
 
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