"Hello. My name's Baditude, and I'm a tankaholic." 
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As you can see above, I have several DCT tanks. All of mine are of the polypropylene material, though. My first two tanks were of the polycarbonate nature, and either leaked or fell apart at inopportune times. I advise anyone getting a DCT tank to make certain they are polypropylene. These are also safe for use with cinnamon, banana, and other citris/acidic flavors without melting. These tanks are made of better materials, sturdier, and are still affordable.
A downside to DCT tanks is they can be slippery on the carto, meaning you don't generally want to pick up your APV by the tank itself. I just make sure I use a tight fitting drip tip and don't worry about it much. The Cherry Vape ming or pawn tips fit nice and tight via a 0-ring in their base.
I've also had issues with self-punched carto distorting the cartos enough that its difficult getting them easily through the end caps for refilling juice. I just recently bought a dremmel to slot my cartos instead of punching...I'll see how that goes.
You can generally tell polypropylene (frosted, syringe type plastic) from the polycarbonate (clear) from vendor's pictures if they don't specifically list the material. I got mine from PB Dragon and My Vapor Store.
The above tank organizer/carrying case was found in a Hobby Lobby craft store. It was housing some mini tools for sewing until my tanks took it over. It has elastic bands to secure up to 8 tanks from 3 -7 ml size. Semi hard case with zippered opening. With this, all my favorite juices can go where ever my mods go.
Pyrex/glass tanks are unquestionably the best tanks, but you pay a dear price for most of them. Cheaper pyrex tank vendors are starting to appear, but the Phiniac and Clean Tanks are a couple of the better tanks currently available if you can afford them.
The key to good tank vaping is regulating the juice flow from the tank to the atomizer within the carto. The proper size of punched/slotted hole and number of holes, in addition to proper priming of a fresh carto is essential.
View attachment 118886View attachment 118887View attachment 118888
As you can see above, I have several DCT tanks. All of mine are of the polypropylene material, though. My first two tanks were of the polycarbonate nature, and either leaked or fell apart at inopportune times. I advise anyone getting a DCT tank to make certain they are polypropylene. These are also safe for use with cinnamon, banana, and other citris/acidic flavors without melting. These tanks are made of better materials, sturdier, and are still affordable.
A downside to DCT tanks is they can be slippery on the carto, meaning you don't generally want to pick up your APV by the tank itself. I just make sure I use a tight fitting drip tip and don't worry about it much. The Cherry Vape ming or pawn tips fit nice and tight via a 0-ring in their base.
I've also had issues with self-punched carto distorting the cartos enough that its difficult getting them easily through the end caps for refilling juice. I just recently bought a dremmel to slot my cartos instead of punching...I'll see how that goes.
You can generally tell polypropylene (frosted, syringe type plastic) from the polycarbonate (clear) from vendor's pictures if they don't specifically list the material. I got mine from PB Dragon and My Vapor Store.
The above tank organizer/carrying case was found in a Hobby Lobby craft store. It was housing some mini tools for sewing until my tanks took it over. It has elastic bands to secure up to 8 tanks from 3 -7 ml size. Semi hard case with zippered opening. With this, all my favorite juices can go where ever my mods go.
Pyrex/glass tanks are unquestionably the best tanks, but you pay a dear price for most of them. Cheaper pyrex tank vendors are starting to appear, but the Phiniac and Clean Tanks are a couple of the better tanks currently available if you can afford them.
The key to good tank vaping is regulating the juice flow from the tank to the atomizer within the carto. The proper size of punched/slotted hole and number of holes, in addition to proper priming of a fresh carto is essential.
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