dct pro cartomizer

[rebgold]

Just got some of these dct pro cartos from madvapes. They have no filler and are supposed to ensure that you won't run dry or burn out filler. I filled my tank, waited a bit since I don't know if there's a way to prime a carto with no filler, then started using it. I generally use a 3.0 ohm carto with my Zmax set at 8 watts. It got burny. I looked up the ohms chart again to make sure I was in the right range, tried to find a watts chart but couldn't. On a 3.0 ohm I should be able to set it anywhere from about 4 to 6 volts. I switched from watts to volts, anything over 5 tasted burny, but even lower I'm not enjoying it. Maybe I burned out the coil having set it wrong in the first place?
What should I set it on if I want to use constant power? Why do I want to use constant power? I don't remember why I had it set that way in the first place. I don't even remember why I use 3.0 cartos anymore, lol. This is the part of the ecig that I will just never really "get", I read the info over and over, but watts, volts and ohms information just does not want to stay in my brain.

http://www.madvapes.com/dct-pro-coil.html

 

[rebgold]

Really? No one has tried these? As popular as pro tanks are?

 

[mobocracy]

Really? No one has tried these? As popular as pro tanks are?

I haven't tried those but I have tried something similar:

Smoktech replacement DCT atomizer - 1.5 Ohm

It's a filler-less cartomizer atomizer. Three-hole punched with a wire mesh surrounding the inside at the punch holes and wicks extending across the inside through the coils. No carto filler.

I've used 2-3 of them and they work pretty well. I get about two of the small DCT tanks of Johnson Creek Red Oak Tennessee Cured through them before the flavor shifts towards kind of a burnt caramel. The first tank, though, has really superb flavor, better than a Smok 1.5 DCT cartomizer, and a ton of vapor.

My sense is that they run a little hot at 3.7v and that the wicking caramelizes the juice. I haven't run on a VV device at a lower voltage to see if this changes anything.

I was initially very excited about these because of the vapor volume, flavor and the lack of priming, but they don't seem as durable as a punched Smok DCT 1.5 ohm carto and are more expensive, so I will probably use up the ones I have and stick with plain DCT cartos.

 

[fogma]

i got a few from mad vapes as well. mine are 1.5 ohm and i really liked the amount of vapor and taste until i went passed 3.5v i miss took the dc in act as dual coil and thought they could handle more voltage. needless to say i cooked it, still works but can't get that burnt taste out. I like the design and how smooth the draw is and hoping there is just a learning curve to 'em

 

[Onelow69c10]

I got one of these today. They are absolutely horrible. Were great first couple of hits on my vamo at 6w after dripping liq on them with a syringe. Then I guess the juice ran out and horrible burnt taste into the garbage they go glad I only bought one.

 

[fogma]

I tried another 1.8 in my tank an as long as I keep the volts low ( like 3.7-3.4) the flavor is really good and vapor is decent. I guess if I want to push em I should prolly get a higher ohm.

 

[phanto]

Just got some of these dct pro cartos from Madvapes. They have no filler and are supposed to ensure that you won't run dry or burn out filler. I filled my tank, waited a bit since I don't know if there's a way to prime a carto with no filler, then started using it. I generally use a 3.0 ohm carto with my Zmax set at 8 watts. It got burny. I looked up the ohms chart again to make sure I was in the right range, tried to find a watts chart but couldn't. On a 3.0 ohm I should be able to set it anywhere from about 4 to 6 volts. I switched from watts to volts, anything over 5 tasted burny, but even lower I'm not enjoying it. Maybe I burned out the coil having set it wrong in the first place?
What should I set it on if I want to use constant power? Why do I want to use constant power? I don't remember why I had it set that way in the first place. I don't even remember why I use 3.0 cartos anymore, lol. This is the part of the ecig that I will just never really "get", I read the info over and over, but watts, volts and ohms information just does not want to stay in my brain.

DCT Pro Coil

Hi, I share your pain. I bought some 1.8ohm cartos (from a different supplier) and experienced the same problem at a power setting which I use as a minimum for most of my vaping. I got burning within the first few minutes. Thought it must have been a dud so put in a new one - same thing happened. Turned the power down to 8 watts - that one lasted a bit longer but then started with the burning. Truth of the matter is these are rubbish. Sure they don't have a great wad of filler (and that was the attraction for me) but they do have short wicks. It's the wicks which get scorched and give the burning taste. If the coils burnt out they just wouldn't fire up at all. The wicks burn because the wire gets too hot. The wire gets too hot because it can't handle the current. If you have enough of the things you need to start with a very low power setting - say 4 watts - and if that doesn't burn then work your way up until it does. If the vape quality at your maximum non-burning setting is not good enough then these cartos are not for you. They are certainly not for me (even at 1.8ohms which is much thicker wire than your 3 ohms will be). Next test for me is similar cartos but with nickel mesh. Will be taking my own advice when my order arrives - start off at about 6 watts and work my way up. Meanwhile, it's back to my trusty boge cartos at 2 ohms which have never let me down in two years of heavy vaping.

PS: if your device allows you set current, or even to see it, then I suggest that you should start testing at about 1.2 amps then work up ...

Good luck.

 

[phanto]

What should I set it on if I want to use constant power? Why do I want to use constant power? I don't remember why I had it set that way in the first place. I don't even remember why I use 3.0 cartos anymore, lol. This is the part of the ecig that I will just never really "get", I read the info over and over, but watts, volts and ohms information just does not want to stay in my brain.

DCT Pro Coil

A few more thought as I continue to mess about with these cartos.
Over the last three years I have tried just about every type of device in vapeworld. I came back to carto tanks a year or more ago because I got fed up with all of the problems associated with other devices, burning, dry hits, winding my own coils, trying different wicking materials etc etc. I have never had a problem since - until the one we are now discussing. Apart from ohm's law (the stuff that you don't want to bother about), you would also need to know a bit about the simple physics relating to heating coils and the evaporisation of fluids. This can put you to sleep very quickly, but in very simple terms, the resistance of a given type of wire (Kanthal being the type most commonly used for ecigs) depends on its length and its diameter. Resistance is directly proportional to length and inversely proportional to the square of the thickness. So, an inch of fat wire will have half the ohms of a two inch piece of the same thickness, and each of those lengths would have only one quarter of the resistance if made from wire which was twice as thick. Furthermore, coiling make no difference to the calculation - only the overall length and thickness is important. Coils are used because that is an efficient way to cram the required length into a small space and, in the case of ecigs, coils provide the most effective way of bringing the heated wire into contact with the wick or filler material holding the liquid. The upshot of all this is that a vertical coil in a cartomizer can be much thicker and longer than a horizontal coil and its heat will be disseminated over a much greater contact area - no burning, no dry hits ....

Well I wanted to try a horizontal coil cartomizer - I have done - it was a failure.

Finally, FYI, a 3 ohm carto at 8 watts equates to 4.9 volts producing 1.63 amps. You don't need to bother about that though, it's physics, your device detects the ohms and then it can't help but produce those answers once you tell it how many volts (or watts) you want to use. At 5 watts it would be 3.9 volts and 1.3 amps. In my own case at 1.8 ohms it is 8 watts produced by 3.8 volts and 2.1 amps, or 5 watts resulting from 3 volts producing 1.7 amps. That's why something around 2 ohms would be a better bet for you than a 3 ohm unit. You need less power for lower resistance and you have more options for trying out different settings to find the one producing the best result for your particular preference.

Well, I'm still sucking on one of these cartos at a lowly 3.3v - waste not want not!

 

[phanto]

Just got some of these dct pro cartos from Madvapes. They have no filler and are supposed to ensure that you won't run dry or burn out filler. I filled my tank, waited a bit since I don't know if there's a way to prime a carto with no filler, then started using it. I generally use a 3.0 ohm carto with my Zmax set at 8 watts. It got burny.
DCT Pro Coil

Finally, finally, whilst most of you guys would have been sleeping I pulled one of these things apart to occupy my time whilst waiting impatiently for the start of a big footy game on fta TV. Interesting! The coil is tiny and uses wire which is thinner than I have ever seen before - much thinner than Kanthal 32 which is probably the wire most commonly used for ecigs. The wick is just two or three very short strands of what looks like normal silica rope used in many if not most ecigs. Whilst the ways these things performed - correction, failed to perform - made it obvious that the problem was a wicking issue, it becomes even clearer when you see for yourself. Anyway, still an hour to the game so how about a little experiment. I took another of these cartos and carefully pushed out the wicking material and, calling on my long forgotten skills at making coils and re-wicking a variety of BCCs, I managed to thread a loop of 1 mm silica rope through the delicate little coil and trimmed both ends so that there were now four leads sticking out. Being a flanged carto, of course, I couldn't get it back into the tank. OK, let's do it properly. Stuck the carto through the base piece for the tank and then re-wicked it. Now just a matter of re-assembling filling and testing.


With the four lengths of wick soaking up the liquid the thing worked perfectly. No flooding and no burning at all settings up to about 15 watts. When I jumped from 15 watts up to 20 on my Sigelei 20W yes, there was burning, but it was the metallic taste from the wire of the coil, not the wick. I was not at all surprised that the wicking problem was solved but I was surprised that the flimsy little coil didn't burn out.


Conclusion. Same as before, these things are rubbish because the wicking is next to useless. People should not be selling these things and certainly other people should not waste their money on them. Game on ...

 

[phanto]

I haven't tried those but I have tried something similar:

Smoktech replacement DCT atomizer - 1.5 Ohm

It's a filler-less cartomizer atomizer. Three-hole punched with a wire mesh surrounding the inside at the punch holes and wicks extending across the inside through the coils. No carto filler.

Hi, you are correct to say that the cartomizer to which you referred is "something similar" but in practice it is a different animal altogether. The nikel mesh changes the wicking characteristics completely - and for the better obviously. From your description this would also be known as a DCT-2-A cartomizer. And a few hours ago I received my first order of these, some at 1.5 ohms and more at 2.0 ohms. First impressions are good but this is not the right thread for discussions about alternatives to the pro thing referenced in the OP. Unless OP cares to widen the scope.