DCT tanks and normal tanks

[kornon]

Hello guys im new to the forums as a poster, but have been visiting it for a while now, im a relatively new vaper, i started with regular ecigs that look like normal cigs, Safe cig and safe cig micro, and then decided to switch to an eGo Ttype B set up but got annoyed with the atomizers, so i switched to a eGo c twist batt and got some 801 fusion cartos and a tank a some regular 510 boge cartos

Now my question here is idk if dumb or what but what is the difference between DCT tanks and idk regular non DCT tanks

Thanks

 

[Winemiller1]

I would imagine iken non dct's are just basically tanks without the Dual Coil Tank (DCT) portion... The tank is typically the same, the only difference is the fact that it has a DCT (Dual Coil) Cartomizer on the inside. You can buy a DCT tank, and switch the cartomizer to a SC or Single Coil, and it will become a SCT or (Single Coil Tank) - That's the main difference. I buy my smoked DCT eGo Tank's from ECBLEND as they have the metal top, and I can use the eGo DCT Cartomizer Replacements in them. They seem to work pretty good. The ECBLEND cartomizers also have 2 holes, instead of 1, so I don't have to slice the sides for more juice. They seem to wick or seep pretty good. I'm finding that DCT low resistance cartomizers seem to eat up coils quicker than non-low resistance. I just bought my Provari from Provape, but ordered another SmokTech DCT Tank from ECBLEND with some 2 ohm and 3 ohm replacement DCT eGo cartomizer replacements, so I can turn up the volts and eat the coils and batteries less quick. The normal Smoktech DCT eGo Tank with 1.5 ohm resistance (I think) is hurting my Twist. I think it's too much amperage to push, and Litecigusa is helping me on this, but the Provari should push all of these set ups better with no worries since the V2.5 has a new 3.5amp switch. A tank is basically a tank, it's more about the cartomizer you have inside that determines if it's a DCT or SCT... If you have twists, then I would suggest buying something like the DCT eGo Tank from ECBLEND in the Smoke Color, and buying 2 or 3 extra 2.5 ohm or 3 ohm eGo DCT Cartomizer replacements (also on ECBLEND) and swap out the 1.5ohm that comes standard in the tank, and putting in the 3 ohm to start with and crank up the Twist more. If you stick with the 1.5 ohm stock cartomizer, it's too much amperage for the twist buck booster to carry with it's relatively low amperage switch, but the 3 ohm or 2.5 ohm should be much better, and make your battery last longer. I'm going to have to send my Twists back, as I think they were toasted with the 1.5 ohm cartomizers that come stock in the DCT eGo tanks. Hope this helps.

 

[Justsidewayz]

wow great reply!

 

[donnah]

I've been using a "dct" for over a year now.. same one.. no problems. It's just a name that was given because back then, it was only the cartos that had dual coils we're long and these tanks we're made to fit. I never cared for the dual coil cartos in the tanks.. flooded to easy. Now they make single coil cartos xl (45mm ) and they fit in these "dual coil tanks"
They might be a bit slidey but they are cheap and work well. I've only had mine slide off once. Mine is usually down in the bottom of my purse when I'm not using it lol. I've been very happy with them.

 

[Winemiller1]

I think the poly tanks hold up pretty good unless you use cinnamin or menthol in them, which tends to break them down. The ID or inside Diameter is pretty much the same on almost all tanks, it's the length your going to have to look at, and the flange on the bottom of the cartomizer. Some cartomizers DON't have a flange, and that's fine, but the tank can slide up and down. The Smoktech eGo DCT tanks from ECBLEND come with a small flange to keep the tank from sliding down, but they can still slide up, but I don't experience that problem, because after you have them seated on the o-rings and the ejuice kind of dries out around the o-rings, they are pretty tight. I would say ALWAYS twist your cartomizer on the way in and out of the tank, as to not hurt your o-rings. Also if you slide the sides or 1 side of the cartomizer to help more juice flow if you chain vape, make sure you sand the cartomizer where you sliced it, so it doesn't again hurt your 0-rings. I use a different method than most. I hold the cartomizer in a vise (very light pressure with a paper towel really holding it) and use a tube saw (tension saw) and simply and softly run it back and forth over 1 of the holes on the side until it cuts through and creates a nice slice. Then I use a die grinder with a triangle tip, to concave the edges of the cut, so it doesn't have a 90 degree edge that catches then 0-ring on the way in, and then I sand it down a bit, and they don't leak at all, and I can chain vape with ease. Sometimes I give them a non-fired dry draw to suck a little more juice in and watch an air bubble surface, but only if I'm really going to town. Your boge's would work on most tanks if they are long enough, but I would buy carto's with a flange on the bottom so you know where the stop is on the tank after you pull it up a bit to fill it, and then push it back down. Smoktech also has normal 510 connection DCT tanks so they can work with all 510 devices, but since I have an eGo twist and a Provari on the way, my eGo DCT tanks should work with both, and look pretty finished, so I chose those and am using them. Boge, Smoktech, and many others use similar cartomizers in tanks and they all work, it's just kind of a guessing game, and you can play around a bit on which ones you like and what they work on. The variables are DCT or SCT.... Flange or no Flange.... eGo base or 510 base (BTW the eGo DCT tank doesn't use the large eGo Threads, it uses the 510 threads, it just has a cover for the large threads to give it that finished look on an eGo battery) and length of the cartomizer to the length of the tank... If you get all that the way you want it, you'll be in good shape.