Dead Riva battery

[whitebalance]

Hi folks,

A while ago a couple of friends of mine got interested in vaping so I told them to buy a good starter kit with a couple batteries and split it, a cheap way to try and decide whether they like it or not. So they got a Riva kit with 2 1100 Ohm batteries, atties etc. One of them is a full time vaper now, the other one was less lucky as his battery died 3 or 4 days after they received the kit. He gave it to me to have a look as I thought it'd be an easy one, but sadly it wasn't just the matter of post pulling or a 5-click shutdown thing. The battery is fully loaded (the button lights up when connected and the charger's light is green) but when clicking the button nothing happens. Obviously, he needs to contact the seller and arrange a replacement, but before he does that I thought I'd ask you guys first Is there any power user hidden trick for resurrecting dead Riva batteries that I may not be aware of? Preferably not involving soldering skills, profound knowledge of electronics or complicated voodoo rituals.

Thanks

 

[ChrispyCritter]

If it has a lock clicking the button 5x I believe unlocks it..some batteries have a lock feature so they don't turn on in your pocket..anyways you should go to the site where it was purchased and read the FAQ's or any info about the battery...

 

[KeysBum]

Backup, backup, backup. Sorry for the rant. I think you're SOL on the battery. They fail.

 

[whitebalance]

If it has a lock clicking the button 5x I believe unlocks it..some batteries have a lock feature so they don't turn on in your pocket..anyways you should go to the site where it was purchased and read the FAQ's or any info about the battery...

Checked that, didn't do the trick

 

[whitebalance]

Backup, backup, backup. Sorry for the rant. I think you're SOL on the battery. They fail.

I'm afraid so too, just thought there might be a secret trick to try before it gets tossed
As for backups, I have plenty, it's a beginner friend I'm trying to help here

 

[bigtiime]

If it's fairly new do not toss it. Get in touch with the seller.

 

[tidegirl]

Well, I thought I could help, but since you're not interested in voodoo...

That is a joke. I am not really a voodoo queen. Gotta be careful what you say in jest these days.

 

[cyberwolf]

Does the button light up when you press it, just no power to the atomizer? If so, it is likely the connection from the bottom (negative) post of the battery to the tube. There is a solder connection to the base of the battery that gets broken, usually because they are dropped. It's a relatively easy fix, but does involve soldering.

If there is no light at the switch, or it blinks numerous times when the button is pressed or an atomizer is attached, then the board is probably shot.

 

[whitebalance]

If it's fairly new do not toss it. Get in touch with the seller.

Yes I think it's still covered, it's been about 2 months or so. Will have him contact the seller.

 

[whitebalance]

Well, I thought I could help, but since you're not interested in voodoo...

That is a joke. I am not really a voodoo queen. Gotta be careful what you say in jest these days.

That's too bad, I was soo hoping to learn a few tricks involving a voodoo doll of a 510 type battery and sacrificing a pack of analogues in the cemetery at midnight

 

[whitebalance]

Does the button light up when you press it, just no power to the atomizer? If so, it is likely the connection from the bottom (negative) post of the battery to the tube. There is a solder connection to the base of the battery that gets broken, usually because they are dropped. It's a relatively easy fix, but does involve soldering.

If there is no light at the switch, or it blinks numerous times when the button is pressed or an atomizer is attached, then the board is probably shot.

The button only lights up when connected to the charger, but won't respond to clicks at all, with or without an atomizer, so must be the board then? What are the chances the button itself is faulty, and while we're at it, how hard is it to disassemble the thing? Maybe I could have a look inside just for the hell of it; I do not suppose I'll see a loose cable and go "AHA!" but who knows maybe I'm lucky

 

[madjack]

I have a ritual involving a goat, a modded light saber at midnight of a full moon night BUT, it can also release evil funkarette smoke all across the world SO, I would contact the vendor for warranty before it gets WAAAYYYYYY too late...............
madjack

 

[madjack]

The button only lights up when connected to the charger, but won't respond to clicks at all, with or without an atomizer, so must be the board then? What are the chances the button itself is faulty, and while we're at it, how hard is it to disassemble the thing? Maybe I could have a look inside just for the hell of it; I do not suppose I'll see a loose cable and go "AHA!" but who knows maybe I'm lucky

...doing so, will void any possible warranty...contact vendor ASAP, yesterday even...behind that switch is a mosFet board and not much user fixable stuff...CONTACT VENDOR before it is too late......
madjack

p.s. taking the case apart may well destroy it...if not in warranty, go ahead, it will be a nice lesson......mj

p.s.s. sparesSPARESSPARES and spares for your spares..........mj

 

[dormouse]

Just FYI 1.5 ohm things (attys, cartos) have the possibility of damaging/killing mass produced encased Ego-style batteries. So if that was what your friend was using on it, there is a chance he killed it that way. Some people will only go that low on mods.

 

[whitebalance]

I have a ritual involving a goat, a modded light saber at midnight of a full moon night BUT, it can also release evil funkarette smoke all across the world SO, I would contact the vendor for warranty before it gets WAAAYYYYYY too late...............
madjack

I guess you shouldn't use a modded light sabre on anything above 1100 Mah as it will turn them into zombies instead of resurrecting; however, a Provari might have a chance

 

[whitebalance]

...doing so, will void any possible warranty...contact vendor ASAP, yesterday even...behind that switch is a mosFet board and not much user fixable stuff...CONTACT VENDOR before it is too late......
madjack

p.s. taking the case apart may well destroy it...if not in warranty, go ahead, it will be a nice lesson......mj

p.s.s. sparesSPARESSPARES and spares for your spares..........mj

Hey madjack, thanks for the tip. I'll check about the warranty thing and then decide.

Hear you about about spares.. I didn't order an E-power a few weeks ago because all vendors simultaneously went out of stock on spare switches here in Europe, so yeah, I don't like to live with no spares

 

[whitebalance]

Just FYI 1.5 ohm things (attys, cartos) have the possibility of damaging/killing mass produced encased Ego-style batteries. So if that was what your friend was using on it, there is a chance he killed it that way. Some people will only go that low on mods.

Yes, I know about LR stuff, also heard plenty of horror stories about CE3s when they first appeared (I still love my only remaining one though), although I think they were actually 2.5 Ohms. The dead Riva had a usual atty that came in the kit so probably just a faulty unit.

Thanks for all the tips, folks

 

[cyberwolf]

The button only lights up when connected to the charger, but won't respond to clicks at all, with or without an atomizer, so must be the board then? What are the chances the button itself is faulty, and while we're at it, how hard is it to disassemble the thing? Maybe I could have a look inside just for the hell of it; I do not suppose I'll see a loose cable and go "AHA!" but who knows maybe I'm lucky

If the button lights up when it is connected to the charger, it indicated that the wiring from the atty connector to the board is good, When it doesn't light up when pressed, the board is not responding for some reason. The switch is starting to sound likely, or a bad board. Either way, an "aha" and a simple fix are unlikely. Like Madjack says, go for the warranty first.