Welcome to ECF, Jblow...
I'm afraid you've been caught up in a dismally common misconception.
Coil ID ("diameter") has no bearing on resistance or heat capacity ("ramp up time") value. Only 3 things determine resistance for a new DIY heating coil.
1. Wire gauge or thickness.
2. Wire length.
3. Wire stretch - AKA the "tension" applied to the wire during coil manufacture.
The physical shape of a coil - be it round, hex, stove top etc etc... and ID - from sub-micro to 3.5 or 4mm... does not affect resistance, other than if manufactured with tension
sufficient to "stretch" the wire.
Used Kanthal A1 (iron/chromium/aluminum)
coils can change resistance both downward... due to decay of the aluminum oxide, electrically insulative/heat conductive surface barrier layer, which - due to the exposure of the remaining iron/chromium content - may allow for wrap to wrap shorting with a compressed wrap coil... and upward due to resultant cross-sectional reduction.
A 88.8mm length of 26 gauge K/A1 wire or a 116mm length of 26 gauge Nichrome 60 (or any other resistance wire with known Ω/mm) will, at room temperature, have a point to point net resistance of 1.0Ω... regardless if it's straight, wrapped - or shaped into an outline of Marilyn Monroe. ;-)
To further your education, including dispelling of myths, lies and total BS... please take a few moments to click the
three hyperlinks below.
Cheers