Any difference between a 1.5 ohm [6 wrap] coil and a 1.5 ohm [10 wrap] coil?

[Flt Simulation]

Using the same gauge wire, if you made a very small (inside diameter) 1.5 ohm coil, it would take more wraps of the wire than a 1.5 ohm coil that had a very wide inside diameter.

Is there really any benefit using a small inside diameter coil vs a much larger inside diameter coil (as long as the resultant ohms of resistance is the same between the two)?
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To me, I can't see that one would be any better than the other.

 

[defdock]

fatter coil allows more wick to be used, for high watt applications i assume you would want huge wraps.

 

[Flt Simulation]

that makes sense .... but I keep hearing of people making 'micro-coils' that are coils made by wrapping wire on a very small diameter rod.

Making a wick on a small diameter rod is not going to allow very much wicking material to be put through it.

 

[ignotus]

Personally I've had better experiences with coils of a larger ID and fewer wraps. I feel that the longer the coil is, the easier it is for the center to choke and burn. YMMV.

 

[defdock]

"micro coils" are not always small persay, they are just contact coils - the coil wraps are always touching eachother.

Personally I've had better experiences with coils of a larger ID and fewer wraps. I feel that the longer the coil is, the easier it is for the center to choke and burn. YMMV.

true.

 

[Dampmaskin]

In my experience 8-10 wraps gives a good balance with medium/thin wire (28-30 AWG). With thinner wire, I can use more wraps, with thicker, fewer. I seem to prefer coils that are about two or three times as wide as the diameter. With larger diameters and fewer wraps, air flow becomes more difficult to manage. With smaller diameters and more wraps, the wick can't keep up.

 

[Papa_Lazarou]

As you're hearing, it's a Goldilocks kinda thing - you're trying to find the balance between contact with the wick and juice feed to/through the wick. There should be no difference in terms of heat up time or juice consumption (given same gauge, same resistance), you just want the juice to get there in steady supply and the coil to make good contact.

Personally, I aim for a target resistance with 6 or 7 wraps; that is, I choose a guage and coil ID that gets me the target resistance in 6/7 wraps.

 

[drippaboi]

I seem to prefer coils that are about two or three times as wide as the diameter. With larger diameters and fewer wraps, air flow becomes more difficult to manage. With smaller diameters and more wraps, the wick can't keep up.

This makes perfect sense to me since lot about of coil performance relies on its overall surface area (advantage of using twisted wire for instance). With some calculus that I'm too lazy to do right now I'm willing to bet this ratio comes close to optimizing both surface area and inner volume of a cylinder.

 

[Flt Simulation]

Thanks for the input.
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For me, I make a coil using 28 AWG Kanthal wrapped around a 7/64" (2.8mm) rod.

8 wraps gets me 1.7 ohms

I use this single coil in an authentic Kayfun Lite Plus and feed it 11 watts (4.3v) of power

 

[loll88]

More contact gives you better flavor and vapor production. For me I like my dual coils and love to hit 7/8 wraps getting the resistance that I want, so depending on the gauge I would choose a drill bit or screwdriver of the right size to get what I want which is ranging from .2 to .4 ohms builds. 28 gauge dual tripple parallel on a 2mm size screwdriver or 24 gauge dual parallel on a 3mm size screwdriver.

 

[Mandingo Superdome]

For what it's worth, like someone said that longer,smaller diameter coils are better than shorter(less wraps) bigger diameter coils. The reason being that the coil has more surface area and the heat is better distributed along the coil then having a smaller "hot" zone on the larger diameter coil. All of this assumes that your wicking material of choice can keep up with the demand of the coil. That's why I personally use SS mesh wicks in all my setups because it's the fastest wick material available and never runs dry, even at 100+ Watts.

 

[Lessifer]

"micro coils" are not always small persay, they are just contact coils - the coil wraps are always touching eachother.




true.

A "true" micro coil is in fact micro, 1/16" ID or less, and it does effect performance. While all contact coils share heat sideways from coil to coil, micros actually share heat across the wick as well, this doesn't happen with larger diameter contact coils, or at least not to the same extent. Both styles of coils have their merits, and it depends on what you're using it for. In a dripper, with minimal wick length, a true micro can out perform larger ID coils. In something like a kayfun, where the wicking needs to keep up, it's worth it to sacrifice some of the heat so that you have more wicking material available. IMO

 

[edyle]

Using the same gauge wire, if you made a very small (inside diameter) 1.5 ohm coil, it would take more wraps of the wire than a 1.5 ohm coil that had a very wide inside diameter.

Is there really any benefit using a small inside diameter coil vs a much larger inside diameter coil (as long as the resultant ohms of resistance is the same between the two)?
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To me, I can't see that one would be any better than the other.

The one with the higher metal to wick surface area of contact would probably perform better.

On the other hand, the bigger diameter coil is easier to wick.

 

[WharfRat1976]

Vapes are a little different. Smaller coil ID can really concentrate flavor. Different coil IDs vape differently in different attys. Did I say different
If the atty allows a 3MM ID I go with it. Thick and juicey vape, lottsa JOOSE on the wick...Less re dripping I have to do.

My ODINS take the smaller ID coils and really concentrate the flavor. I use bottom feeders and squonk joose with a REO so I am not in and out of the atty all the time to drip it.