I roll my wicks on a straightened paper clip and do the juice burn on same clip. Then, while still on the clip, I wrap my coil - not tightly but not loose either. Then I stick the paperclip and wick into the hole and connect up the wires. I remove the clip and start the 'fiddling' process. This works pretty well for me - I know others prefer the drill bit method. But I think wrapping the coil on the wick first ensures a better 'loose to tight' ratio, if you will.
DID hot spot will not go away
- Thread starter Blacklight
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Off topic question for everyone. Has anyone successfully used silica wick in the DID/DUD? I saw the vid for the z atty but I wonder if the wick hole is larger on that.
I still have 1 more mini-did-clone (CHID? DUD? not sure what name it had) that hasn't been wicked up yet. 2.5mm hole, and have a 2mm wick+wire left over from my Phoenix clone. Might be worth a try to get around hot-spots.
Follow-up on Silica wick:
Put a silica wick on this thing last night...silica does not seem to have the ability to wick this far. Keeping wick vertical, and see only about 1/4 inch (6mm) getting wet, and that's if I wait a minute or so. 1st 2 or 3 turns of the coil get wet. Putting it horizontal, and can get whole wick wet after about 2 minutes. It seems to need to be fed from both ends with liquid...like in clearos.
On a positive note, the only hot spots were easily identified as where the wick was dry.
Put a silica wick on this thing last night...silica does not seem to have the ability to wick this far. Keeping wick vertical, and see only about 1/4 inch (6mm) getting wet, and that's if I wait a minute or so. 1st 2 or 3 turns of the coil get wet. Putting it horizontal, and can get whole wick wet after about 2 minutes. It seems to need to be fed from both ends with liquid...like in clearos.
On a positive note, the only hot spots were easily identified as where the wick was dry.
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