Is one better than the other? I seem to get better performance with wattage adjusting rather than voltage. Please explain... thanks.
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Could be placebo, but maybe not. VW is a closed loop system in that it meters and adjusts settings in response to a potentially changing condition, while VV simply holds an average/nominal setting. In some VW devices, that adjustment happens during the firing cycle so you get on the fly adjustment.
I don't know if this video will help you out, it's a video called the science of vaping, I found it interesting:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xc90pdATEM0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xc90pdATEM0
Seems that most who have a VV/VW device usually run it in VW mode. (Well, I do! 
)
VW is more of a "set and forget" mode, and the device will deliver that wattage no matter the topper.
VV may need to be adjusted if you change to a different resistance on the topper. Usually pretty easy to do by pushing a button, twisting a dial...
Since VW just adjusts the voltage for you, with similar settings there shouldn't be any appreciable difference in the vape. It's just in how you get there.
)VW is more of a "set and forget" mode, and the device will deliver that wattage no matter the topper.
VV may need to be adjusted if you change to a different resistance on the topper. Usually pretty easy to do by pushing a button, twisting a dial...
Since VW just adjusts the voltage for you, with similar settings there shouldn't be any appreciable difference in the vape. It's just in how you get there.
Warning: what I'm about to say makes sense in my head. It may not make sense to anyone reading it.
Ohms law can be thought of as a triangle with voltage, current, and resistance being the three sides. Changing one side affects the others. Wattage is determined by the shape of this triangle.
VV changes one side (voltage) which ultimately changes the wattage (power). If you do the math, you can get exactly the power you want.
VW mode like telling the mod "here's the power I want to have, you figure out the shape of the triangle to make it happen." So even if you change atomizers (resistance), you still get the end result you want.
Ohms law can be thought of as a triangle with voltage, current, and resistance being the three sides. Changing one side affects the others. Wattage is determined by the shape of this triangle.
VV changes one side (voltage) which ultimately changes the wattage (power). If you do the math, you can get exactly the power you want.
VW mode like telling the mod "here's the power I want to have, you figure out the shape of the triangle to make it happen." So even if you change atomizers (resistance), you still get the end result you want.
Not bad. You might also carry on a bit and equate watts with the area of the triangle... so if you / the battery changes volts, then the amps also changes, you have a different shaped triangle but the same area.
Let me put it in plain english the best I can:
VV (or even changing the watts as you vape) is better than VW (usually refers to just setting the watts and leaving it):
How long and thick a coil wire is determines it's ohms. Ohms is basically just a way to measure it's affected when electricity (volts) is sent through it. The number of times the wire is wrapped around the wick determines how long it is (plus take into account how long it exteds past the wicking material untill it reaches the positive & negative terminals in the coil head).
If you have a 1.8 ohm coil, you should set the Volts around 3.7. This combo of ohm & volts gives a certain Watt. You should set the volts to 3.7 with a 1.8 ohm coil because if it's less volts, you won't be sending enough power (watts) through the 1.8 ohm coil wire which wouldn't give much vapor. If you set the volts much higher than 3.7, you'd send too much power (watts) through the 1.8 ohm coil wire and would get burnt hits.
Sort of off topic: almost all non-variable volt batteries (non twist ego etc) are always around 3.7 volts, so you should only use 1.5-1.8 ohm coils with them to avoid burnt hits (coils lower than 1.5-ish would burn the juice) or weak hits (coils over about 1.8 ohm won't burn the juice enough).
Think of the ohms & volt combo = the same power as watts because they're the same. The numbers in the boxes of this volt chart are the watts
check this chart (file name too long for image attachment??)
http://vtpics.vapertrain.com/voltagechart.jpg
So anyway, suppose you prefer the amount of the vapor, temp (hot or cool), and taste of a particular # ohm coil & a certain volt - this would be your preffered Watt setting. You can set a VW battery to always push that watt, and no matter what ohm coil you use, it will always be saving you the work of adjusting the votls to that exact watt. This is why some people with different tanks that have different ohm coils in them like to use VW because they don't have to find that sweet spot every time they change a tank or change the coil out that isn't the exact same # ohm as the previous.
However, I think VW is BS and that a lot of people are VW snobs because it came out after VV and is supposed to be a step foward, but I only see disadvantages to VW, especially for bottom coil tanks like protank and puritank. VV is way better.
Changing volts is super easy on most devices and can become second nature (do it without thinking about it). I find that volts should be raised/lowered at different stages of each tank and if you chain vape like 4 big hits in a row.
If you chain vape three big hits and want a fourth, sometimes the volts should be lowered a bit because the wick didn't have time to fully soak and would give a burnt hit. You could in theory lower the watts to not get a burnt hit, which I think is what you're doing anyway (scrolling through the watt menue insted of the volts accordingly as you vape, which is the same affect as long as you MOD doesn't change watts in significantly larger/smaller increments than the volts which would give you less precision). Almost all people just use VW to set it and forget it though.
As the juice is vaped, it thins out the remaining juice in the tank and might require slightly less/more volts/watts to give the best hit. Another thing is with bottom coil tanks, as they get low around 1/4 full, the extra air in the tank causes them to gurgle - raising the volts can elimintae the gurgle (but you might get a burnt hit if you hit it too long). Not raising the volts and tipping the tank while vaping can also eliminate the gurgle. Also, towards the end of the tank, your coil will have accumilated some gunk and the volts can be raised to give a better hit. I dry burn the coil after each 3 ml tank, but usually still raise the volts towards the end due to gunk build up, especially with %100 VG juice that gunks more.
If you just set the watts and leave it, you can't fine tune your hits like I mentioned, and there are probably a bunch of other reason people change VV (or even VW) as they vape through a tank.
Sort of off topic: There are also mechanical MODs which mean they don't have any micro chip in them, only a battery. Whatever volts the battery happens to put out is the volts it vapes at. But as the battery drains, it lowers in volts and doesn't give a lot of vapor or a good hit (unless you want the second half of the battery's life to be a good hit and the first half to be a burnt hit or vice versa, which would depend on what ohm coil you put in it if you get what I'm saying [a mechanical MOD with a battery that puts out 3.7 volts fully charged will give a good vape with a 1.8 ohm coil, but will give weak hits as the battery drains and puts out less than 3.7 volts. Vice versa woud be worse which would be putting a 1.3 ohm coil in a 3.7 volts mechanical MOD and getting burnt hits untill the battery drains lower than 3.7 volts].
Most non-mechanical MODs (VV/VW/or standard egos etc that stay around 3.7 through the whole charge) will put out the amount of volts it says on the screen/dial untill it's completely drained.
Once you get the hang of it and if you build your own coils, you don't really need to know the ohm of you coil to know the general area you should start the volts at to find the sweet spot for best flavor, vapor production, and cool vs hot hit.
VV (or even changing the watts as you vape) is better than VW (usually refers to just setting the watts and leaving it):
How long and thick a coil wire is determines it's ohms. Ohms is basically just a way to measure it's affected when electricity (volts) is sent through it. The number of times the wire is wrapped around the wick determines how long it is (plus take into account how long it exteds past the wicking material untill it reaches the positive & negative terminals in the coil head).
If you have a 1.8 ohm coil, you should set the Volts around 3.7. This combo of ohm & volts gives a certain Watt. You should set the volts to 3.7 with a 1.8 ohm coil because if it's less volts, you won't be sending enough power (watts) through the 1.8 ohm coil wire which wouldn't give much vapor. If you set the volts much higher than 3.7, you'd send too much power (watts) through the 1.8 ohm coil wire and would get burnt hits.
Sort of off topic: almost all non-variable volt batteries (non twist ego etc) are always around 3.7 volts, so you should only use 1.5-1.8 ohm coils with them to avoid burnt hits (coils lower than 1.5-ish would burn the juice) or weak hits (coils over about 1.8 ohm won't burn the juice enough).
Think of the ohms & volt combo = the same power as watts because they're the same. The numbers in the boxes of this volt chart are the watts
check this chart (file name too long for image attachment??)
http://vtpics.vapertrain.com/voltagechart.jpg
So anyway, suppose you prefer the amount of the vapor, temp (hot or cool), and taste of a particular # ohm coil & a certain volt - this would be your preffered Watt setting. You can set a VW battery to always push that watt, and no matter what ohm coil you use, it will always be saving you the work of adjusting the votls to that exact watt. This is why some people with different tanks that have different ohm coils in them like to use VW because they don't have to find that sweet spot every time they change a tank or change the coil out that isn't the exact same # ohm as the previous.
However, I think VW is BS and that a lot of people are VW snobs because it came out after VV and is supposed to be a step foward, but I only see disadvantages to VW, especially for bottom coil tanks like protank and puritank. VV is way better.
Changing volts is super easy on most devices and can become second nature (do it without thinking about it). I find that volts should be raised/lowered at different stages of each tank and if you chain vape like 4 big hits in a row.
If you chain vape three big hits and want a fourth, sometimes the volts should be lowered a bit because the wick didn't have time to fully soak and would give a burnt hit. You could in theory lower the watts to not get a burnt hit, which I think is what you're doing anyway (scrolling through the watt menue insted of the volts accordingly as you vape, which is the same affect as long as you MOD doesn't change watts in significantly larger/smaller increments than the volts which would give you less precision). Almost all people just use VW to set it and forget it though.
As the juice is vaped, it thins out the remaining juice in the tank and might require slightly less/more volts/watts to give the best hit. Another thing is with bottom coil tanks, as they get low around 1/4 full, the extra air in the tank causes them to gurgle - raising the volts can elimintae the gurgle (but you might get a burnt hit if you hit it too long). Not raising the volts and tipping the tank while vaping can also eliminate the gurgle. Also, towards the end of the tank, your coil will have accumilated some gunk and the volts can be raised to give a better hit. I dry burn the coil after each 3 ml tank, but usually still raise the volts towards the end due to gunk build up, especially with %100 VG juice that gunks more.
If you just set the watts and leave it, you can't fine tune your hits like I mentioned, and there are probably a bunch of other reason people change VV (or even VW) as they vape through a tank.
Sort of off topic: There are also mechanical MODs which mean they don't have any micro chip in them, only a battery. Whatever volts the battery happens to put out is the volts it vapes at. But as the battery drains, it lowers in volts and doesn't give a lot of vapor or a good hit (unless you want the second half of the battery's life to be a good hit and the first half to be a burnt hit or vice versa, which would depend on what ohm coil you put in it if you get what I'm saying [a mechanical MOD with a battery that puts out 3.7 volts fully charged will give a good vape with a 1.8 ohm coil, but will give weak hits as the battery drains and puts out less than 3.7 volts. Vice versa woud be worse which would be putting a 1.3 ohm coil in a 3.7 volts mechanical MOD and getting burnt hits untill the battery drains lower than 3.7 volts].
Most non-mechanical MODs (VV/VW/or standard egos etc that stay around 3.7 through the whole charge) will put out the amount of volts it says on the screen/dial untill it's completely drained.
Once you get the hang of it and if you build your own coils, you don't really need to know the ohm of you coil to know the general area you should start the volts at to find the sweet spot for best flavor, vapor production, and cool vs hot hit.
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Just because someone finds a certain wattage works for a range of their devices doesn't mean they won't ever change it. That's silly. As is the rest of your post.
There are no disadvantages of VW per se, only advantages.
There are no disadvantages of VW per se, only advantages.
A possible advantage to vw comes to light when you take into account that as the wire heats up, its resistance goes up. Therefore, on a long draw, a vw device will compensate for this so the hit will stay consistent. A vv will hit hard at first then taper as your draw continues. I'm speaking theoretically in accordance to Ohm's law here, and it could probably be argued that very few people can actually tell a difference.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2
Ohm's Law:
Voltage = Amperage * Resistance
Wattage = Voltage * Amperage
Voltage is directly proportional to Wattage. Ultimately, the right wattage is what gives the vape you prefer. Again:
Voltage * Amperage = Wattage
If you want to change the problem until you find an answer you like: VV
If you want the right answer without worrying about the problem: VW
Voltage = Amperage * Resistance
Wattage = Voltage * Amperage
Voltage is directly proportional to Wattage. Ultimately, the right wattage is what gives the vape you prefer. Again:
Voltage * Amperage = Wattage
If you want to change the problem until you find an answer you like: VV
If you want the right answer without worrying about the problem: VW
Is vw superior? Yes...no.... it's what "does it" for each individual person. Provari makes a damn fine mod, so do many other companies. What I find superior, you may hate and vice-versa.
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If someone has their MOD set to Wattage and changes it for a better vape, it's the same affect as changing volts, it's the 'set Watts and leave it' method I see as a disadvantage to changing watts/volts throughout the tank for whatever reason for a better vape.
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ProVari doesn't make a VW, so VV is better
all kidding aside, I tend to prefer VW. It's not entirely set it and forget it, for those who change tops a lot, since different juices can sometimes work best at slightly different power levels, but for me, pretty much all my builds and ejuice works at least near perfectly at about ~8-9 watts. I use a Kick Clone or a Vamo sometimes, and not having to fiddle with power settings is nice, but it's not a big deal, either.
edit: though lately I have been running microcoils on an unregulated mechanical mod more often than anything regulated.
all kidding aside, I tend to prefer VW. It's not entirely set it and forget it, for those who change tops a lot, since different juices can sometimes work best at slightly different power levels, but for me, pretty much all my builds and ejuice works at least near perfectly at about ~8-9 watts. I use a Kick Clone or a Vamo sometimes, and not having to fiddle with power settings is nice, but it's not a big deal, either.
edit: though lately I have been running microcoils on an unregulated mechanical mod more often than anything regulated.
I don't know if you realize this but you can change the wattage setting. Just by pushing a button. Because I can't tell by your posts whether you understand that.
I like them both pretty much equally, and I find that change both pretty much equally (juices, heads, mood, etc..). Given that, my experiments with mech mods failed miserably. I simply need V{X}. A good VV or a good VW - it doesn't matter to me. Just gimme that good vape.
"Originally Posted by veganvap
If someone has their MOD set to Wattage and changes it for a better vape, it's the same affect as changing volts, it's the 'set Watts and leave it' method I see as a disadvantage to changing watts/volts throughout the tank for whatever reason for a better vape."
You quoted me saying what you don't know if I realize. I realize that and explained to the OP.
My bad though, I edited it because maybe you misunderstood me because I put a comma where a period should have been at
" ...affect as changing volts [period instead fo comma] it's the 'set Watts and leave it' method..."
If someone has their MOD set to Wattage and changes it for a better vape, it's the same affect as changing volts, it's the 'set Watts and leave it' method I see as a disadvantage to changing watts/volts throughout the tank for whatever reason for a better vape."
You quoted me saying what you don't know if I realize. I realize that and explained to the OP.
My bad though, I edited it because maybe you misunderstood me because I put a comma where a period should have been at
" ...affect as changing volts [period instead fo comma] it's the 'set Watts and leave it' method..."
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oh yea? well if vw is better why do so many people buy mechs? so nyaaaaaaaaaa.
i own both vv and vw, i twist my coils dam near identical every time, i see no difference.
i do see where in certain situations it MAY have an advantage with respect to a more consistent vape.
i own both vv and vw, i twist my coils dam near identical every time, i see no difference.
i do see where in certain situations it MAY have an advantage with respect to a more consistent vape.
high amperage subohm coils, and cost. many people also buy because of the form factor and their current popularity (aka fashion).
ummm ever heard of sarcasm?
mechs have been around a lot longer then the latest subohm fad - cost? up until recently there werent too many cheap mechs lol
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