Dirt Cheap Mech

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crammit442

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Since we've been discussing "Spicy" Mechs, I thought I'd throw this out there. Going strictly by product description, it's not even really a stand alone mod. I bought one for the switch and tube for an e-pipe project. It's similar looking to a SMPL mod, w/o the squirrelly 510 connection. It works pretty well and hits hard. It's actually an upgrade kit for a Noisy Cricket, but makes a great going fishing, likely to be lost mod. I've just got a Speed Revolution Clone dripper on it and its not too shabby. I've got about $22 in it minus the 18650 so if it goes overboard, it's not the end of the world. It came from Fat Daddy Vapes.
Charles
http://fatdaddyvapes.com/eBay/Photos/Details.jpg

IMG_1703.JPG
 

bwh79

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RE: "It's similar looking to a SMPL mod, w/o the squirrelly 510 connection."

What do you mean by "squirrelly 510 connection" ?

I have been running two SMPL tube mech's for a few years now, and to me the direct-to-battery 510 configuration is about as simple/un-complicated method as any I have seen/used.

Regards,
As in "accident waiting to happen." I know that they "can be perfectly safe in the right hands," but it's still just one more layer of "crap that could go horribly wrong," in my book. You truly have to be ever-vigilant. I'm sure you know all the rules, and you "never" do this, and you "never" do that, and you "never" do anything that would be considered "unsafe" with a hybrid-style mech. Don't drink and vape, I guess, is what I'm tryin' to say. I like a center pin in my 510 when I use a mech mod.
 

crammit442

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RE: "It's similar looking to a SMPL mod, w/o the squirrelly 510 connection."

What do you mean by "squirrelly 510 connection" ?

I have been running two SMPL tube mech's for a few years now, and to me the direct-to-battery 510 configuration is about as simple/un-complicated method as any I have seen/used.

Regards,

I'm not saying there's anything inherently wrong with the SMPL 510. it just doesn't lend itself to anyone that doesn't understand that the atomizer positive pin needs to protrude sufficiently to avoid a hard short. The tube I posted actually has a built in insulator/pin. W/fewer contacts, the SMPL would be a harder hitting mech for sure.
Charles
 
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Spey

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As in "accident waiting to happen." I know that they "can be perfectly safe in the right hands," but it's still just one more layer of "crap that could go horribly wrong," in my book. You truly have to be ever-vigilant. I'm sure you know all the rules, and you "never" do this, and you "never" do that, and you "never" do anything that would be considered "unsafe" with a hybrid-style mech. Don't drink and vape, I guess, is what I'm tryin' to say. I like a center pin in my 510 when I use a mech mod.
So then, look for a simple solution ...

If you feel you need a 510 center-pin between your atty and your battery it's a simple matter to add one (pic's below).

I do not need a "safe place" to feel safe ... knowledge and understanding of your equipment is a better approach in my mind vs. having to remember a subset of "rules" related to being safe when vaping ;-) Rules are typically for team sports in my mind. My first mod was direct-to-battery and knock-on-wood have had no safety related issues in a number of years vaping.

I actually only use the heat-sink/floating 510 pin in the photos when I run atty's that tend to leak around the 510, but seems would also solve your precived feel-safe issue. If an atty has a flush or countersunk 510, I either lengthen the 510 (unscrew, add silver-solder, use different 510 pin, etc.) or more typically would not buy in the first place.

The Goblin-mini in these pic's has a bottom air flow intake that collects moisture on the bottom and sometime juice. The heat sink prevents juice from getting to the battery.

We all have to do what works for us. For me, I like things simple and I like the SMPL mech because of it's inherant simplicity.
5231aae761c2d4989db84ae96def707a.jpg
 
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Spey

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I'm not saying there's anything inherently wrong with the SMPL 510. it just doesn't lend itself to anyone that doesn't understand that the atomizer positive pin needs to protrude sufficiently to avoid a hard short. The tube I posted actually has a built in insulator/pin. W/fewer contacts, the SMPL would be a harder hitting mech for sure.
Charles
No worries Charles. In no way did I feel you were bashing the SMPL mod. Hopefully, my comments were not read as defensive. I am only responding to hopefully offer something useful to others.

I kinda assumed you were talking about folks that choose not to think about what they do, and default to various safety mechanisms. Mech's are not for everyone, especially not direct-to-battery mech's.

By the way ..., running a mech the 510 pin is NOT always positive. Many times I run them negative depending on mod, atty, battery being used, where the mod-vents are, etc. Example: SMPL vents are located around bottom-fire-button, so makes sense to run the battery vents in same locale (this nets a negative 510 configuration - negative towards atty).

Hopefully something useful here ...
Regards,
Christopher
 
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crammit442

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It's interesting that you mention running a mech with the battery polarity reversed from the norm. I've thought a good deal about this very subject and discussed it w/a good friend who is a published Doctorate level EE. I've never used a tube that way, but a simple tube mech is really nothing more complex than a flashlight. The only noteable difference that could potentially cause a problem is that most mods use the chassis as part of the circuit. With an incandescent bulb, battery polarity is irrelevant. Who cares if the bulb glows backwards? LED's are polarity sensitive, but not for safety reasons. I'm aware that some mechs will dead short w/the battery reversed, but from a simple electrical standpoint, I don't see a physics reason why it matters if the mod chassis is negative or positive as long as a short circuit isn't created. With a simple battery powered (DC) motor, changing polarity just changes the direction of rotation. In the example of a (non LED) flashlight, the bulb still works; the current is just flowing in reverse. With the exception of certain mods that by design cause a short if the polarity is reversed, I don't see any problem with what you're describing. Is it a problem if your coil heats in reverse:yawn:? Would you EVEN know? I'm not advocating turning all our batteries upside down, but I think that as long as you understand exactly what components are energized to complete the circuit, you're probably not doing anything inherently WRONG. Lots of of older European cars use chassis positive electrical systems. I'm gonna run put on my flame proof suit now before the battery Nazis come for me (and you):evil:!
Charles
 

bwh79

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It's interesting that you mention running a mech with the battery polarity reversed from the norm. I've thought a good deal about this very subject and discussed it w/a good friend who is a published Doctorate level EE. I've never used a tube that way, but a simple tube mech is really nothing more complex than a flashlight. The only noteable difference that could potentially cause a problem is that most mods use the chassis as part of the circuit. With an incandescent bulb, battery polarity is irrelevant. Who cares if the bulb glows backwards? LED's are polarity sensitive, but not for safety reasons. I'm aware that some mechs will dead short w/the battery reversed, but from a simple electrical standpoint, I don't see a physics reason why it matters if the mod chassis is negative or positive as long as a short circuit isn't created. With a simple battery powered (DC) motor, changing polarity just changes the direction of rotation. In the example of a (non LED) flashlight, the bulb still works; the current is just flowing in reverse. With the exception of certain mods that by design cause a short if the polarity is reversed, I don't see any problem with what you're describing. Is it a problem if your coil heats in reverse:yawn:? Would you EVEN know? I'm not advocating turning all our batteries upside down, but I think that as long as you understand exactly what components are energized to complete the circuit, you're probably not doing anything inherently WRONG. Lots of of older European cars use chassis positive electrical systems. I'm gonna run put on my flame proof suit now before the battery Nazis come for me (and you):evil:!
Charles
As far as the coil is concerned, no, it doesn't make any difference. The problem comes if you use a battery with a torn wrap. You shouldn't ever do that, but :censored: happens to the best of us, at times. This diagram helps to explain why proper orientation is important in such a scenario:

bZz24rH.png


Some mechs are "designed" to be used positive-down (the Broadside comes to mind); these have an insulating sleeve preventing the battery from coming in contact with the mod in case the wrap is damaged.
 

Spey

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Oh and we must also consider if we are running multiple coils in parrallel or in series AND if we are possibly combining could run in parallel and series inside the same atty and also when we run coils of differing resistance together for staged heating (I do any/all this from time to time).

Yes, we should consider all things ... just don't tell me I need a safety on my mod to make me feel safe.

bwh79,
Thanks for commenting in. Wish I could see your attachments on Tapatalk (I am guessing they help to illustrate parts worth consideration).

Anyone who can help me with why I can see some attachments but not others is welcome to PM me ;-) Earlier, I was able to see my attachment, but broken link icon displays now :-(
 
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Spey

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bwh79,

Link in Post#11 works (small text barely legible - looks like low-res copy). Thanks for the link. Yes, electrical conduits should have good insulation to protect from shorts! Once you have smelled leaking electrolyte, it is something to remember ;-)

Attached pic's in Posts #12 & #13 both are shown in my feed (small text is clearly legible - looks like higher resolution copy).

May I ask how you posted pic's in #12 & #13 compared to how you did in your first Post #8 ?

BTW, attached pic in Post #1 is also visible in my feed. Posts #5 & #8 display broken-link icon. Post #5 was attachment/upload pushed through Tapatalk to E-CigForum site from a photo from my device (assume this is visible, along with Post #8, to others ?). Still looking to figure out if this is (many photo attachments (displaying as broken-link-icon) issue in my end ...?
 
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bwh79

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May I ask how you posted pic's in #12 & #13 compared to how you did in your first Post #8 ?
#8 I used tags to embed the original image file hosted on imgur.com.

#12 & 13 I saved the image to my device then uploaded to the forum as an attachment. #12 I inserted the attachment (full size) into the message body, 13 I just left it as an attachment only.
 
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bwh79

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Strange behavior ... appears partial amounts of text also not displaying.
f453cf851f0b3a33022bbc8ecac187a0.jpg
Ah. Okay...I used "image" tags (put the letters "IMG" in between [square brackets], type the URL of the image file, then close it with "/IMG" with a slash, inside more [square brackets].) I tried to just type it out -- some forums will display the tag text if you don't close the tag, this one I guess just masks it.

#'s 12 and 13 I saved the image file to my device, then uploaded it to the forums as an attachment. For #12 I inserted the attachment into the message body, and since doing that removed the clickable link, I posted again without inserting it into the body, making it a clickable for #13, just in case you couldn't see 12.

It's the same source image in all three posts. I don't know why you only get low-res versions sometimes. (I mean, I know Tapatalk is why, I just don't know why Tapatalk does that.) I have an iPod Touch and I use Safari when browsing forums on it. Doesn't always end well, but ECF seems to handle it as well as any of them do.
 
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crammit442

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The "has to have a safety" thinking that scares people away from Glock firearms is similar to the SMPL mod. Glocks are inherently VERY safe handguns and it just WILL NOT FIRE unless you pull the trigger. The brilliant thing about a Glock is that it WILL fire when you do pull the trigger. Keep your finger off the trigger until you've made the decision to fire the weapon. In the real world, it's probably easier to make an innocent mistake w/a SMPL mod, but the same principle applies. For the record, while I'm a Glock guy, I do understand that there are a number of other high quality reliable handguns. I definitely don't want to start a "Glock is the best" contest. Whatever works best for you is what you should use.
Charles
 

Spey

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The "has to have a safety" thinking that scares people away from Glock firearms is similar to the SMPL mod. Glocks are inherently VERY safe handguns and it just WILL NOT FIRE unless you pull the trigger. The brilliant thing about a Glock is that it WILL fire when you do pull the trigger. Keep your finger off the trigger until you've made the decision to fire the weapon. In the real world, it's probably easier to make an innocent mistake w/a SMPL mod, but the same principle applies. For the record, while I'm a Glock guy, I do understand that there are a number of other high quality reliable handguns. I definitely don't want to start a "Glock is the best" contest. Whatever works best for you is what you should use.
Charles
crammit442,
Charles,

First let me begin with some disclosure, I believe the SMPL mod is inheranty safe because of it's simple straight forward design. Nothing confusing about it, or how it functions after you disassemble the switch the first time. If it is confusing ..., you probably should not yet be living on your own ;-) nor using items that contain potential energy in dangerous amounts.

If I need a SMPL mod to not accidentally fire for some reason, any of the following options has worked effectively for me;
1) I don't accidentally push the button.
2) I slightly unscrew the fire button so can not fire.
3) I remove the battery.
4) I insert non-conductive spacer between contacts.

Yes, I would agree with your comments as to why folks might think a SMPL mod is inheranty dangerous and similarity to your comments related to Glock (23c my primary for ~ two decade).

Reflect back ..., historically guns did not have safety's. The safety was the user, nobody blamed a gun for killing anyone ... Who would believe we would "progress" to a point where blame would be associated with an inanimate object ? vs. a malicious or ignorant user.

With regard to safeties on firearms, let's look at their significance as they relate to actual "protection" from accidental discharge. We will look to the one, only one mention, in the 12 golden rules of gun safety (#11 below). Pretty well illustrates intention related to stop-gap legal protection of manufacturer.

The 12 Golden rules for Safe Gun Handling
1) Always treat the gun as loaded.
2) Always keep the gun pointed in a safe direction.
3) Always keep your finger straight and off the trigger until you are ready to shoot.
4)Always keep the gun unloaded until you are ready to use it.
5) Never point the gun at anything you don't intend to destroy.
6) Be sure of your target and what is beyond it.
7)Learn the mechanical and handling characteristics of the gun you are using.
8) Always use proper Ammunition.
9)Be sure the barrel is clear of obstructions before loading and shooting.
10) If your gun fails to fire when the trigger is pulled, hold your shooting position for several seconds; then with the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, carefully unload the gun.
11) Don't rely on the gun's safety to keep it from firing.
12) Be aware of your surroundings when handling guns so you don't trip or lose your balance and accidentally point and/or fire the gun at anyone or anything.

Back to vape discussion:
Vape battery related accidents I have researched for the most part have a common denominator related to ignorance or blatant disregard to equipment usage and design specifications. Very similar, incidentally, to gun accidents I have researched and/or been in general proximity of.

Interesting comparison now that ya mention it.
 
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