Disappointed in CE2? Try this!

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Ghostc4

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It sounds like the air tube is loose on the ceramic cup. A length of heat shrink tubing is installed to prevent this, but it is rarely tight enough for a tight seal. Sometimes it can be so loose that it will empty the carto due to capillary action.

In these cases, I usually heat it enough to make it tighter. However, a used carto will have juice in between and it must be cleaned and dried before it will seal.

Mine also doesn't have any heat shrink on it.
 

IndustrialAction

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No, I used the method where you pull the tube off by hand since I don't have a dremel or a tube cutter

You yanked it out? The guts of the CE2 are too fragile to do that successfully (I think!). Any home improvement store has tube cutters for about $4, you should consider going that route. Also, remove the inner rings before you pull it out so there is less strain on the cup. I don't know why you don't have heat shrink on the cup. The ones I've worked with all had it. Are you using an R4?
 

br5495

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No, I used the method where you pull the tube off by hand since I don't have a dremel or a tube cutter

I gather by now that you may have R3's. They do not have heat shrink. Most of the ceramic cup stems on them are tight on the metal tube, but not all of them. The loose ones will leak.

If you are inserting the base fitting in a plastic tube without part of the tube still on it, then it can be difficult to keep them from leaking. I have some syringes with a small enough ID for a tight fit on the base fitting, but I have to be pretty careful with them to prevent leaking.

Edit: The smaller syringe has the same ID as the original metal tube.
 
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br5495

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So I have another question, after I did the mod and for the short time it was full I still seemed to have wicking issuse. I pulled the little bows farther down and cut them in half and made the ends a little frayed. I was wondering if my problem could be my juice, its 50/50 butterscotch from Datsvapor.

Some people report better wicking with a thinner juice, but I'm not one to say. My juice is fairly thin and I have not tested anything else.
 

IndustrialAction

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So I have another question, after I did the mod and for the short time it was full I still seemed to have wicking issuse. I pulled the little bows farther down and cut them in half and made the ends a little frayed. I was wondering if my problem could be my juice, its 50/50 butterscotch from Datsvapor.

Add PTB, that will help.
 
Hi Folks,

Interesting read through 41 pages.

I have a few questions:

When using the tubing cutter method are you leaving 6 to 10 mm of the original metal tube in place as measured from the top of the battery threaded connection? And more to the point if one leaves a metal ring in place from the original tube do you then place the syringe OVER the original metal tube to support the new clear tube?

I am currently using a modded carto that I purchased from Bruce @ COV - In his version the clear tube appears to extend from the top of the carto base to the bottom above the threads. Not sure but I think I see/feel a slight ridge at the very bottom.

I read posts that instruct using a dremel to slice through the tube? Do you then remove ALL of the original tube vs leaving some behind via the tubing cutting method?

How does one hold/grip the carto to remove the syringe tube once assembled to clean? Is the fit loose enough to allow you to dissemble without damage? Do you have a jig that you screw the carto into for support while pressing the tube on or taking apart to clean?

Thanks for your response,

PeterV [REN]:vapor::vapor::vapor:
 

IndustrialAction

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Hi Folks,

Interesting read through 41 pages.

I have a few questions:

When using the tubing cutter method are you leaving 6 to 10 mm of the original metal tube in place as measured from the top of the battery threaded connection? And more to the point if one leaves a metal ring in place from the original tube do you then place the syringe OVER the original metal tube to support the new clear tube?

I am currently using a modded carto that I purchased from Bruce @ COV - In his version the clear tube appears to extend from the top of the carto base to the bottom above the threads. Not sure but I think I see/feel a slight ridge at the very bottom.

I read posts that instruct using a dremel to slice through the tube? Do you then remove ALL of the original tube vs leaving some behind via the tubing cutting method?

How does one hold/grip the carto to remove the syringe tube once assembled to clean? Is the fit loose enough to allow you to dissemble without damage? Do you have a jig that you screw the carto into for support while pressing the tube on or taking apart to clean?

Thanks for your response,

PeterV [REN]:vapor::vapor::vapor:

If I'm not mistaken, Storm is the supplier of Bruce's wares. You can use the dremel but I find that the tube cutter gives you a nice compression ring and blunts the sharp edges making it a bit easier to handle. YMMV. When I make mine, I measure 5mm from the bottom of the metal tube (or top of the battery connection if you want to look at it that way). I find 10mm to be a bit too much. As for cleaning, I haven't cleaned any of mine except for dry burns. You certainly can do it but since they only cost about $.50 plus the cost of the CE2 to make, I have one for each of my flavors rather than messing with cleaning.
 

IndustrialAction

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I'm going to bed but will type up the steps I take. I'll do a video in the future. I'll check back in the morning to answer questions.

Materials:
510 XL CE2R4 Carto
3ml BD plastic syringe (no needle)
1 empty Lipton pyramid tea bag
Filling syringe
eJuice
Vaping aparatus

Tools:
Pipe cutter
Tweezers (small, pointed tip kind)
Sharp hobby knife

Steps:
Remove black sticker from carto and all three rings
Cut carto with pipe cutter about 5mm (or more, your option) from the top of the battery connection
Remove carto from tube
Adjust wicks so they go all the way to the bottom of the carto and are even
Trim excess wick from free ends
Remove syringe plunger
Cut top and bottom off of syringe
Twist wicks around carto stem
Slightly widen bottom of syringe tube (I jam a ball point pen up it and wiggle it around)
Insert into syringe tube, bang on the desk a couple of times to get it seated properly
Lay out PTB
Fold 1/4" flap or do it twice if you really want more wicking
Cut strip ^
Hold strip against the tube and trim the bottom to just above the battery connection
Insert PTB strip down the inside of the tube along the cup slits
Repeat on other side
Increase size of slits on the fill ring
Insert modded fill ring (this is the only tricky/hard part but I personally think it is important)
Fill modded carto w/eliquid using a syringe (no need to measure, tube is see-through afterall)
Insert second ring
Insert top cap OR drip tip (drip tip helps cool vapor)
Screw on to your battery and vape away

Note: I always keep the stock wicks AND add PTB. More wicking is better than less IMPO. I think the reason I don't like stock CE2's is because they can't wick worth a damn. Plus, every one I've cut apart has wicks that aren't the right length to get the whole tube.

Good luck. I'll check for questions in the morning!

Just bumping up the steps I wrote out incase anyone is interested. There are certainly other options but this is my preffered method.
 
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br5495

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How does one hold/grip the carto to remove the syringe tube once assembled to clean? Is the fit loose enough to allow you to dissemble without damage? Do you have a jig that you screw the carto into for support while pressing the tube on or taking apart to clean?

PeterV [REN]:vapor::vapor::vapor:

Screw your battery on and pull, heheh. Put it back the same way, except push.
 

Ghostc4

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So I got a hold of a tube cutter and did this thing the right way. Oh man, this thing is sweet. Besides the fact that I didn't make the tube long enough to get all of the old seals in it turned out perfect, I am just using a narrower drip tip to act as additional seal. Thank you, you guys for helping me see where I went wrong. I even used a q-tip to push the guts out of the tube.
 
Tried to obtain syringes in New Jersey. Ha - No GO in this state. Must have a script.

My activities today took me to within ten minutes of PA. Went into Rite Aid and bought 10 BD's for $2.50 without a blink of an eye.

Made up five in no time and they work perfectly.

Thanks for all the helpful info. After doing the first one the next four took no time to complete. In the end I found my Pawn drip tips fit like they were made for the mod.

Tnx
PeterV [REN] :)
 

slin

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Teacher storm,

Here is my homework of syringe mod, 5 ml , 3ml and regular poly filled 510 carto syringe mod, I like 5 ml (dripper...exactamed brand from cvs ) the best. You can get dripper syringe type for free at cvs.
 

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Gummy Bear

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Well dang,,,A flooding atty? I can't figure this one out.
I cracked my 5ml tank,, so on Christmas day I made a new lexan tube for it and treated it (myself) to a new C2 for it. (standard 3 ohm V4) ,,,,,, fast forward till yesterday (maybe the day before that) when it started gurgling, (this happens every now and then) I had to take the tank off of the battery and blow it out. Just to get the condensation out of the tube, or so I thought. Unscrew it, blow into the battery connector and wipe it out, spit and sputter and wipe the juice out off of my lips. then blow like hell down the drip tip. small droplets of juice goes all over the place from the bottom where the threads are so I aim for the trash can. repeat the spit and sputter part and wipe the juice out off of my lips again. It did that 3 or 4 times yesterday and a dozen times today. except today there was no way to get it to stop gurgling no matter how many times I cleaned it out like I have done many times before. I gave up and changed the atty for an old one and now all is well. It would get so bad that you would have .... tooten flashbacks.
The only mod to the C2 was to dremel 2 slots at the bottom so the juice from the tank could get to the wick.
Do I remember someone else here that had a problem with flooding?
 
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