On a CE2 the air comes through the center post which is hollow. I'm not sure how a boge works, I've never used one but I would imagine that it works just like a normal carto with the coil on the bottom and filler material on top of that.
Cheap and effective 5ml syringe tank tutorial
- Thread starter Silent Soldier
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
The Boge works about the same way as for how the air goes through it.
You can put a boge in a tank ( been there done that with my Gummy Tanks a long time ago) but don't fill the carto first.
and you must be careful not to upset the pollyfill. A small hole is all that is needed to keep the pollyfill wet.
Also it must not be filled in some way that will pressurize it.
Take the top cap off or press the carto out of one of it's end caps and drip fill it. (the tank, not the carto)
You can put a boge in a tank ( been there done that with my Gummy Tanks a long time ago) but don't fill the carto first.
and you must be careful not to upset the pollyfill. A small hole is all that is needed to keep the pollyfill wet.
Also it must not be filled in some way that will pressurize it.
Take the top cap off or press the carto out of one of it's end caps and drip fill it. (the tank, not the carto)
I'm feeling quite diagrammatic today!
I know the boge is correct, but how does the CE2 look?
It should be noted that these are just simple diagrams, not blueprints.
I know the boge is correct, but how does the CE2 look?
It should be noted that these are just simple diagrams, not blueprints.
Liberty flights sells the CE2 as used in this mod. I don't know what revision there's are currently but they work the same. They have wicks that draw the fluid up to the coil; capillary action.
I find the rubber stopper on my mods degrading and breaking up over time, leaving visible particles of rubber in the juice. Has anyone considered molding and casting the stopper into something like silicone that would hold up better?
Also, I was wondering if anyone'd attempted using a larger, say 50cc, syringe. The connector end would be handled differently, and the stopper could be kept in shape by keeping part of the plunger lever in the mod.
Also, I was wondering if anyone'd attempted using a larger, say 50cc, syringe. The connector end would be handled differently, and the stopper could be kept in shape by keeping part of the plunger lever in the mod.
I had seen a cartridge mod where someone made a metering valve (disc with a teeeeeeeny hole in it) out of silicone mold maker purchased from the craft store. Might be worth looking into.
I've looked into real silicone as well as "jelly" (umhm. think adult toys), and both processes can be affordable, but only if you buying dozens of gallons of material. That, and it stinks to high hell when curing, or so I've been told.
I've looked into real silicone as well as "jelly" (umhm. think adult toys), and both processes can be affordable, but only if you buying dozens of gallons of material. That, and it stinks to high hell when curing, or so I've been told.
Far as putting a hole in the rubber stopper.I found if you take a old metal 510 carto pull the guts out of it so you will have a hollow inside.Turn it upside down to where the threads are on top.Put it in the hole of the rubber stopper and hit the threaded end a few times with a hammer it will punch all the way through.You get a perfect hole every time.No leaks at all,at least not the ones I have done that way.Just something I thought I'd share with ya.
as far as the silicone goes, if it is 100% silicone it can be use for any application no matter what it says on the package but it does have to be 100% clear. this can be gotten at any hardware store real cheap. Shop GE 2.8 Oz. Clear Silicone at Lowes.com
Last edited:
I dunno if I trust that. I'm a contractor by trade, and yes, most of it is safe, but only specially labeled caulks and sealants are "food safe" grade. Box store caulk/silicone isn't even safe to use in an aquarium (it can leech into the water and kill the fish, even after it is fully cured).
I could see using some food safe silicone or aquarium silicone, though.
I could see using some food safe silicone or aquarium silicone, though.
Just a quick question;
i use 2ohm boge's, and I see that LF only sells the CE2's down to 2.5ohms. Do the CE2's run hotter because of how they are setup or something? Why do they (CE2's) not come in 2ohm (or do they, and I just don't know it)? I just really like warm vapor, but am also interested in doing this tank mod.
(I had debated on asking in new/different thread, but thought this the most appropriate)
i use 2ohm boge's, and I see that LF only sells the CE2's down to 2.5ohms. Do the CE2's run hotter because of how they are setup or something? Why do they (CE2's) not come in 2ohm (or do they, and I just don't know it)? I just really like warm vapor, but am also interested in doing this tank mod.
(I had debated on asking in new/different thread, but thought this the most appropriate)
The CE2's run really hot because the coil is on top. I even find 3+ohms to be hot at times, but I usually don't use a drip tip, which cools it down.
Cool all I need is some/a
1/2" OD x 3/8" ID Clear PVC Tubing and I will give this a try
Booked marked and subscribed TY.
1/2" OD x 3/8" ID Clear PVC Tubing and I will give this a try
Booked marked and subscribed TY.
Just so you know, start here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...1512-pre-veteran-thread-1582.html#post3658366 and back read a few hundred pages or until you figure it out which ever you prefer.
holds about 20ml
- Status
